Remove Bushhog Blades And Baseplate With No impact wrench 

Great video. At 1:44 you could drill two holes 2 inches away on either side of the center of the plate and tap the holes with coarse threads. Then, next time, you can use a bolt type wheel puller (about $18 at Harbor Frieght) and pop off the plate in case it gets stuck. Just make sure the holes are the same distance from center, on exact opposite sides, and all the way through to maintain balance. You can even add a 2nd set of threaded holes about 4 inches from the center but in-line with the other two holes (again 1 on each side to maintain balance). Then you can get a piece of 1/8 inch thick steel stock from an Ace/True Value hardware store, drill two matching holes in it and cut it to length so you can temporarily bolt it onto the plate so the end will act as a bar and stop up against the deck somewhere and keep it firmly in place from spinning as you remove/reinstall the center bolt. If you don't have the drills, taps, and such to make the modifications, see if a local garage can do it for you. Clean it all up, and mark where you want things cut and drilled and most guys will ask for something like $10. This all doesn't help you now, but you will be ready for the next time.

Thanks for the info. I taught my self a few new cusswords and never got the thing off I will be trying your approach . thanks again.

Sometimes it works to tighten the nut as to break it loose. I use a hammer and a steel rod to break stuck nuts loose, (WD-40 too) . I have an impact drill but I don't have sockets big enough to fit the large nuts on such machines. I stand my BH on it's front end when I work on it, it seems to be easier that way.

Copper plus never seeze and you can pull the stump jumper off by hand. Never seeze keeps the dirt out and prevents corrosion the cause of the bush hog being hard to remove the stump jumper.

Wonder if a gear puller would work. THe other thing I'd try is putting down some wood on top of the housing and shiming in a felling wedge. (One per side)

two days of soaking with PB Blaster.... mine came off with an air impact wrench. the blade bar/pan... not so much... I broke it. My fix? Got a new JBar HD6. ya gotta do what ya gotta do

Flip the brush cutter back over once you get the castle nut off. Then you can use a heavy bar and a knocker to bang the jumper off through the hole in the top of the deck.

Sorry about the ending friends. But the MAIN POINT IS you have to remove bushhog from tractor. Use comealong to flip totally upside down. Then use a CROWBAR to brace and stop everything from turning. And use a bigger cheater bar than I did. And pour diesel on the castle nut. It may even have to soak over night in diesel. Good luck. Please ask if you have questions!! Thanks RRP🚣🏻

How do you keep the pinion shaft from spinning when you turn the nut?

I don't think I tried going right first. I will keep that in mind. Thanks. How did you keep the bp & blades from spinning? Im sure there are other ways. Would like to hear of any.

Pb blaster on everything and a 3 ft bar

kroil by far the best penetrating oil made. Apply the oil leave it sit overnight. Real stubborn nuts may require a second application with a very slight amount of heat from a propane torch. Not an Oxy! Just enough so you can't touch it. Let it cool than put more Kroil to it. Leave it sit over night. Next day it will come off with minimal effort.

I ened up using a 6ft pipe to break it loose. now I'm trying to get the jumper off lol

I just raise it up, block it for safety, then run a pipe through the pto so it can't turn, then crawl under and take nut off. With lube and a couple taps with a hammer (and gravity) the stump jumper (flying saucer) falls right off!

why don't you stand on cheater bar

longer cheater bar??

You can buy the correct 1 inch wrench for the same price as that castle nut you're rounding off with that pipe wrench. Buy more tools instead of more parts. Save a knuckle and less cussing.