This in-depth video will show you how to properly remove & install a steering column on a 1967 - 1972 Chevy or GM truck / C10. Very helpful when swapping to tilt column.
Thanks for the concise, paced, illustrative demonstration. Sharing your experience helped me prepare and have everything to do the job. I am changing out the column on my grandfather’s truck, which is now my son’s. Been in the family since ‘71.
As an ASE Master Tech since 1978, now retired yet building my own 67 C10 pickup, this is the best video instructional video I have seen. Going as far as to show the locating tab, neutral/safety switch and the flat of the intermediate shafts connector took you extra time and effort. Theses who don’t do this everyday have a friend and video to like, subscribe and save to their play list, unless they have a buddy they can share with. Excellence in training! My 67 did not a booster, so to add one the bracket is an offset to the brake pedals geometry plus, I have never seen the brace shown near the end, connecting the booster to the fender. I found that new to me, learning has occurred! I would guess you found an OEM tilt column from a motor home or van. Good for you. My greatest fear is to spend $800+ for some aftermarket column and not find parts that fit! We both know that seals go bad, bearings need greased, noise or squick someday. Sir, you have done justice to our profession. Thanks, liked, subscribed and saved to my play list. Just plain great!
Brother...I cannot thank you enough ! Just today..I was reinstalling steering column on my late Grandpa's 72 Buick skylark 4 door, And couldn't figure out why that bolt wasn't going through to hold steering column together.. I must be off by 1 spline... thanks brother!
This video is REAL helpful, thank you. As a complete novice I disassembled all of my 71 column 5 years ago, and realized today guess who didn't mark the upper shaft to the pot joint☺. Would have been so much easier. So with your video and some study of the parts, I realized so long as everything is square (emphasis) with the pot joint, clamp and shaft for the bolt then it's going to be right. BTW, you make it look easy. We have the same color truck.
Very in depth and much appreciated! Didnt realize I was missing parts until I saw your video. Thanks for taking the time to shoot, edit, and post this!
I have a 71 Chevy C10 and I found a tilt wheel that is slightly different from my non tilt. I understand the was and spring not needed but I don't understand it not having the automatic shifter 1/4 moon dog thing for the different gears to snap into to differentiate the gears?
@Walter K Parker >Walter, it’s a little hard to figure out exactly what you have going on, but let me help. The arm that moves when you shift the gear lever inside, is welded to a tube so it moves as one piece. Now, round bar linkage is bent and shaped to make it around all the exhaust, brake and frame stuff. In the video, he showed the adjuster to get park and other gears in place. It has a special bold that is drilled to fit the round bar linkage. In an automatic, the shift shaft has inside, a strong flat spring & roller. It moves over a detent and falls into place to hold the shifter still. Up top, where the adjuster bolt is, this external round bar, bent by the factory, slides Into the hole of this bolt. The half-moon part is just like a cup, working as a washer does on any bolt. The difference is, it pinched down on the round bar shift linkage, to hold it still. Now, when the nut is tightened, it pinched the shift round bar, but a shoulder keeps it free in the arm that moves when changing gears. If missing, it would require a replacement pinch cup. The bolt fits just loose enough to move inside of the shift arm on the column. The arm can be straight or bent as shown depending on Model or transmission. This is just a pivoting pinch bolt. Look on older cars and trucks in your local bone yard. They maybe sold,, but I have not looked either. A company called “Lokar” May sell this bolt with hardware. A little research may turn up a missing part, unless your have everything, but the last guy who worked on it, installed it wrong! Hope this helps. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Great explanation of removing the steering column. I'm just trying to replace the rag joint on my '72 GMC. How do I make room at the steering shaft end so I can remove the old and install the new rag joint? Do I need to drop the entire column or is there some way to separate the shafts without doing that? Thanks for any help.
Thank you for subscribing. You do not need to remove the steering column to change rag joint. Just loosen everything and let the column drop an inch or 2 at the top and you can push the column up and get the rag joint off. The wiring and shift linkage can stay put as well
71 GMC column shift automatic will not go into park unable to find out how to tear down to clean out the shaft where the shifter livers connect to the transmission
Most of the time lube will help. I spray PB Blaster in the hole where the shifter arm goes in the column and in the column on the end where the shift linkage attaches. I plan on doing a column disassemble video soon for non tilt column
Great video but got one question, what are the size bolts needed to pull the steering wheel. I have a puller but the bolts are all too big. The holes on the steering wheel seem very tiny. Thanks
Thank you very much. I just realized that the holes are welded or either the bolts are cut off in the holes. No wonder why nothing fit. Thank you again for all the help. But the guy who sold me the teething column got one over on me.
@@tremaynelee2702 Thanks again. When I pulled the horn contact and retaining clip, all I saw were the three screw holes for the clip. When you responded with the 5/16 and I cleaned up the area, I noticed the two holes to pull the steering wheel were filled with the screws, someone must have cut them level. Needless to say, I see now and not sure I can remove it as it is frozen in place. Thank you and I did subscribe because you have great content. cheers
Using the correct thread bolts, the right size and length with the pulled shown works every time. This pulled and one like the OTC brand for removing the pitman shaft arm, will be the main ones in anyone’s tool box. You can use a penetrating oil a day before but shouldn’t be a problem. I am not ashamed to admit this, but with the nut loose but installed 5-6 threads, I grab the left & right side of the steering wheel, push on one side and pull on the other, repeating this back & forth real fast while pulling up, it comes right off. The nut keeps the steering wheel from hitting you in the nose. Never had a factory or aftermarket brake, crack, fracture or fail. These are tough. Note: Using good light, make sure it’s not tack welded or tightened over the splines. I have not seen everything from here, but I can only guess. ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired
I just followed your video and the gauge selector is crooked. I have the tab in the column and it’s just a little off. I can send you pictures on Instagram if that helps any.
