Franklin. Great video. I need a portable work bench/ work station for doing carpentry jobs (on the work site). I have that huge Rigid 12" sliding miter saw that's a pain to have to pull out of my work van and carry over my saw horse/saw table so I'm thinking about designing a rolling work station that my saw can stay fixed on and that has large cabinets underneath to carry all of my hand tools so I can roll out all of my tools and equipment in one go without having to lift hundreds of pounds worth of tools or make multiple trips from my van to wherever I'm setting up on the jobsite. I was thinking maybe an electric motor could even help make it easier to roll (for slight inclines up driveways, going over loose, uneven ground, etc.). I usually work at houses that are towards the end of the construction process but usually the landscaping hasn't been done and I often have to get it up over concrete curbs and flatwork ledges so I definitely need large, off road wheels. It'd also be nice if I could secure the entire work station/saw table so I could leave it on the job overnight without having to worry about my tools getting stolen. I think something like this would be great for a lot of contractors so if it's a project you'd be interested in doing and making a video on and maybe making plans for, that'd be awesome. Thank you. God bless.
Franklin I am eternally grateful to have your channel and channels like yours who put this info out there for hobbyists like myself. I am a music teacher and just do DIY work around our house and love having a woodworking shop that looks pro, functions well and doesn't cost as much as those who can get a return on their investment. I can't tell you how many times I watched a video and said "welp, can't justify that buy". It's rough out there but you make it less so. Thank you for the plan. I've been waiting for a way to get my router mounted to a table since I got it! :D
Franklin. Two suggestions. One, when building the extension table top, do not glue the plywood top to the frame (i.e. just use the pocket holes to mount it) and then laminate a piece of Formica (or equivalent) to the plywood. Then install it as you did. Formica is super durable and slick, and can be made even slicker with paste wax or similar product (and a lot less hassle and time then dealing with epoxy). Other positive, at least for me, I used white Formica on mine and I jot project notes and measurements on it all the time with a pencil, then wipe it clean with Windex when I'm done. And if you're really OCD (like me) build two plywood tops at the beginning, and store the second one as a replacement for when the first one gets worn or banged up. And it will over time. Two, since you're running essentially a stand (i.e. not cabinet) saw, build a complete cabinet base under the entire length of the saw and router extension with drawers for storage and dust collection built under the router top, then take the legs off the saw and mount it on the cabinet. Positives: Lots of storage, dust collection for the router (and saw if you want), and way more stability under the saw given the mass or the cabinet and stored tools. Put it on locking casters if you need to move it around, or adjustable feet if its gonna be stationary.
Franklin. I recently had surgery on both of my arms, so with all the time I've had during recovery I have started to get interested in wood working. I came across your channel a week or two ago and have felt very inspired by your videos, you really do a great job of making this skill feel approachable and I very much appreciate everything you are doing here. My first project is going to be a cross cut sled for my table saw. Keep up the great work, and see you in a future video!
FRANKLIN: As a blind woodworker I love your description of the activity you do. I wish I was lucky enough to utilize all those Kreg tools. Please do more on dust collections and router issues.
How does that work being blind and working with power tools? After 30+ years of experience I have a pretty unhealthy fear of tools and respect too and I can see fine. I couldn't do what you do
@@woodworkingandepoxy643 We have a blind woodworker in kc he sold off most his power tools and does lathe work now, but he's got a lot of experience on the lathe. The guy makes some amazing stuff. But he was woodworking long before he went blind. There was a news article in the paper about it I met the guy and had similar questions. His house was off the charts. Beautiful older home in perfect shape. Inside and outside.
Franklin, enjoyed your video - the extension came out really nice. Your choices for finish made total sense for what you want out of it. Your shop looks tiny which makes your channel even more valuable to those of us with small shops that serve multiple functions! I'll definitely subscribe and look forward to seeing all your content. Kreg, whatever you are funding this guy, double it. He's making you look good without all the commercial hype. It gives way more credibility to your tools.
Franklin I’m sure someone else mentioned it but high pressure laminate (Formica) makes an excellent work surfaces. Cutoffs from countertops can also make excellent work surfaces, make sure to seal all of the exposed surfaces
Franklin here too. :) Yup. A full 4x8 sheet of countertop grade laminate is about $55 and will be good for many projects. That's what I used for my router table extension wing and its fence.
Franklin. This is by far the best video I've seen to add a router to my Delta table saw. I will make this my next shop improvement project. Keep up the so helpful videos
Franklin-beautiful video man, I've always been a bit hesitant to make my own router table, that's quite encouraging! I'm a bit perplexed by having to address the router from the side rather than facing it, because of the fence position, so I'd love to see you using it before going for that build :)
Franklin, it’s just a jump to the left….. Thanx for showing I’m looking for something like this, as a newbie-ish I like the way you explain what you’re doing, Kreg is not easy to get hold of in Europe, I’m guessing more popular in US, but I will certainly attempt your idea with a template at some point in the future, thanx again
Franklin, sorry im late finding your video but i like what you've done here. I follow wood workers of all types but love the fact that your setup is what the average man can have around his shop. Varying tools of different brands is right up my alley. I have a very unorganized shop thats on the small side and this is something i 100% will be making in the future. Great idea and appreciate the tips, definitely learned something 👍👍
Frankin, well done. I love how the final finish came out. I made one for my R4512 a little over a year ago. I used a piece of leftover melamine (from an enclosure I made for our daughter's bearded dragon). I made a frame underneath, like you did. I used the holes in the existing steel wing and the spreader bar to fasten the router table to the table saw. Fits like a glove. I made a router fence using plans from #dpmakesstuff. I made it a little taller and added some t-track to the upper face of the sliding fence pieces. I made my own stop blocks for that. I then made my own dust box. I got the T-fitting from Rockler so I can hook up the 4" hose to the dust box and then a 2-1/2" hose from the fitting to the router fence (when needed). I added a pinwheel vent to the opposite side to allow proper airflow and I get no dust on top or below, regardless of what I'm routing. The only thing I didn't get was a router lift. I just use my Bosch 1617 with the aluminum plate that goes on the Bosch table top router table. Can't wait to see the fence and the dust box that end up making, or purchasing, if that's the case. Great work on your new router table. Here's to many years of service.
Franklin I love seeing your shop setup. This router table addition to the table saw is so smart. I'd love more on having a functional shop in a small space.
Franklin. Great video, Eric! That black finish really goes well with the rest of the table saw. If I didn't know better I'd have thought it came with your saw. I would like to see you build that box around your router lift. I've seen several videos of people doing it, but would like to see your take on it. Also, you might find your router will be much quieter once you have a box around it.
Franklin - Awesome video, Eric! Great way to optimize space in your small shop. I'm also quite impressed with how well that India ink turned out on birch. Birch is typically blotchy, but I guess since it's a dye, it worked a lot better. Looking forward to seeing your dust collection solution next. - Joe
I live off of FRANKLIN Rd. in Nampa Idaho. We moved her a year and a half ago and will only have a one garage shop. It is the 3rd garage on our three car garage. Due to illness over the last year, I haven't been able to set up my shop but I do have most of the tools I will need. I do have a free standing router table and won't get rid of it. However, I had already decided to remove the stock pressed metal table on my Delta table saw and your plans will come in very handy. My only difference will be that I will use white formica on top of the plywood since another person mentioned that and the ability to write on it with pencil. Will probably do something on the other wing for better support. Overall, I really like your video's and will continue to watch. I subscribed early this week. Would love to see you do a video for an infeed and outfeed support. Thanks for your video's.
Franklin Just finished mine. Top is melamine. I made a tray out of 1.5in angle aluminum braised together at the corners. Leveling is done with bolts underneath tapped into the aluminum tray. I'm working on a fence add-on that will include dust collection and aluminum track, but be light weight. So likely I'll use a flat steel bar on the fence side, and extensions to the track. I'll make a shell for dust collection in the middle out of fiberglass or maybe heat molded acrylic.
Hi Franklin, Did the exact same thing to my Craftsman table saw over 35 years ago. Except I used a sheet of laminate instead of the epoxy. Much easier and it still works like a champ.
Like the idea of using the adjustment feet. I have watched a dozen you tube videos on this subject, and you are the first to add these. Franklin! When you getting married ??
Franklin, this video is very helpful. I just bought a used Delta saw. It has the iron extension on the left, but a crappy melamine extension on the left. I also have a tiny part of my basement to use as a shop. So my router table has to go to make room for the bigger table saw. So, I'm planning to put my router table in the saw extension I build to replace the worn out melamine. The table top epoxy is a great idea. I like the black finish, too. You've given me some great ideas. Thanks!
I have a small shop and enjoy your methods to save space - wheeled tools. I use this method also but I ruined 100 yr old band saw as a wheel stopped on a wood chip and tipped over and destroyed the saw. Please keep the videos coming.
Franklin was thinking of doing this to my laguna F2 table saw and your video gave me all the ideas I need to do it, Thank You for your videos all are very helpful.
Franklin I have a Delta 725T2 and a Kobalt router table that I was going to install following another Tuber video. This one looks much more doable with my skill sets. Thank you!
Franklin, I really like this. I just bought a bench top router table but I still like tours. I plan to do this like tours as I have an extra router. I have to work outside and not the garage anyway so this day I won't have all sorts of workbenches outside and also makes for a better cleanup.
Franklin. Great video and router table extension. A fellow Ohioan, I enjoy your videos. You’re laid back, humble and put out great content. Keep it up!
FRANKLIN This is exactly what I envisioned for my "all in one worktable." I like the way that you used 1/4" ply to make the template! Keep doing and SHARING the awesome work!!
Franklin - Great video. About to make a basic cross-cut sled this week and a drill press table. Going to be reviewing your video and using the baltic birch I just picked up yesterday. I got the sheet marked down 50% due to damage, but that will be able to be hid on the drill press table and since it is a work surface, I'm not too worried about one piece that will be on the underside of the drill press table will have a blemish on it. Worth it for the amount saved!
Franklin. I just bought the saw for a deep discount at Home Depot for 399 with nothing, but contractor points and gift cards purchased from reward points. I’m super excited because it’s going to free up my Rikon for the job site. I’m super excited you covered this
Franklin, I’ve been a diner for over 50 years but I’m just getting into projects other than the around the house repairs or construction. I really enjoy your podcasts! 😁👍🏻👋🏻
I was waiting to watch your router fall through the whole. Glad you got the kreg levelers. My lift came with built in levelers. I left a lip, added 1/2" aluminum strips. I also turned my router 90º as mine is also up against a wall. I'll but putting t-tracks in soon and building a fence.
Franklin: Thanks for the great tip on using the India Ink and Boat Resin, as well as roughing it up afterward with the 3M pad. Excellent solution! Another great video.
Franklin, I did something similar with my Dewalt DW745, that I built a custom table for. I designed the table with the 16.5" extension for my Triton router in mind (which is perfect for table mounting), and use the Dewalt's rip fence as an attachment point for the router fence. The fence on the Dewalt is quite flimsy though, and flexes a bit when in use, so I seriously consider putting some 3/4" T-tracks in the extension top for the router's fence. This is no problem, as the top is made from 27mm formwork plywood (high ply count and durable surface). Instead of routing all the way through the top, I only routed out to the depth of the mounting plate itself (Rockler, designed for the Triton routers), and used threaded inserts for the mounting bolts. It's still a work in progress, as I need to make 2 additional holes in the opposite corners, as the Rockler mounting plate is only secured in 2 corners, which makes leveling it nearly impossible, as it flexes a bit (I stacked bits of adhesive foil around the perimiter to level it for now). Then I need to add a leveling mechanism from beneath. Those Kreg ones look interesting, but probably won't work with my setup. The top is mounted to the frame of the table with angle iron for increased rigidity. :)
FRANKLIN.... this is awesome. I'm getting ready to build a router table with my son, and we couldn't decide between a rolling table or a table top type...room is running low. THIS solves that issue. Thanks!
Franklin, I was going to mention covering it with plastic laminate/Formica but I see others beat me to it. I have made several saw table extensions over the years. Some were made from "sink cutouts" that were gifts from local kitchen counter top shops. Glue two of them together back to back to balance the construction. Nice build, thanks for posting.
Franklin --lots of folks have made router inserts into their table saw but without a doubt this was one of the best explained videos on how to do that! Thank you. I’m curious how you will do a fence now.
@@SpencleyDesignCo the only thing I thought of was black laminate on the top instead of stain and epoxy, but your top looks good. But you are the teacher and I am just the eager student! haha
Franklin Good presentation, covering all the steps to add the router to the table saw. I did this to my table saw (Unisaw) back in 1982. Would have been nice to have RU-vid at that time to get good advice like this. Also, don't think they had router lifts then. I had an eight-foot fence on my saw, so I had a lot of workspace to the right of the blade and added a four-foot outfeed table. Covered everything with Formica. Great work area. Yes I had room for this. My shop was a converted dairy milk barn.
Franklin, excellent build. I have been looking at several other builds and your design seems very stable and will last the test of time, use and abuse. Thanks
Franklin, I have a circa 1949 Delta Unisaw Jr. with cast iron wings, so I'm good there, but I am interested in adding a router deck off the end now. And I hate my fence. Nice video!
Franklin - Even using high quality 3/4" wood like baltic birch will sag over time. the weight of the router, lift, box, and DC hose will cause it to sag. You might want to consider adding some cross pieces underneath to stiffen it up, before it sags.
Franklin! I really like your videos, keep up the good work. I have been a cabinet installer/maker for about 30 years now. I am just starting to get into fine woodworking and I like your down to Earth approach and the fact that you don't have Festool everything is refreshing.
Franklin...I agree completely and have in fact also added a cast iron extension to my Sawstop as well as Incra's router box and have found big improvement in dust collection as well as space efficiency. Thanks.
Franklin awesome video thank you I’m just getting start woodworking like you I’m a Engineer.. train woodwork at school but went the way of steel now I’m back and your a major help..
Franklin. It's been in the 90s here in Virginia the past few days and you start the video in a coat and jacket! :) Awesome build. I added a melamine top to fill in the space on the right side of my Delta. I like it better than the big open space. If I ever decide to add my router to my saw you've provided the perfect tutorial. Thanks! :)
Franklin, I did this for my Delta back in 2021. I'm wanting to redo it, because the plate's leveling doesn't work as it should. I have to use shims to get it level. Instead of birch, I used melamine, to give it the slick surface to slide pieces across, and it sheds water if anything damp gets on the table. Watching your video I'm now wanting to give it another go, but I'm thinking of getting a different plate and those Kregg leveling plates. Those look great!
Franklin! Nice build! Re dust collection, a router table needs dust collection BOTH above the table, through the fence, for edge cuts, AND below the table, for dust falling through the insert plate around the bit, AND for dust from dado cuts. Drill or cut a hole through the table, directly downstream of the router bit - since the bit does not change position in the table, EVERY dado cut will follow the exact same path, and an enormous amount of dust will be expelled along that dado. You could connect a dust hose through the port that was cut, or enclose BOTH the router bit and dado port, beneath the table. Many folks build a box around the router and attach a dust hose; an enclosed router may get hot, UNLESS it gets cooled by the dust collection airflow. That airflow pulls dust-laden air down around the router, and INTO the router. A box also adds weight, as does a router lift, to the underside of the insert plate. Plates sometimes sag. Replacement costs money. They could, in theory, be attached to the underside of the table, instead of the insert plate. Tables also can sag. That is a beautiful table. Suggestion: I once came across an article about building a router table (freestanding or table saw extension), where the idea was basically to build a cabinet, and support the router, with or without a lift, from the cabinet back, rather than from above. It also described how to capture dust around the bit, RIGHT BELOW the insert plate, rather than letting fall around the router. I’ll have to look for it. The idea of collecting dust from dado cuts through a hole in the table came from a couple of places. Again, I’ll look for the links. Rockler’s Dust Chute would be a similar idea, but it installs on the edge of a stand alone router table, so it would not work for a table saw extension. Again, beautiful work on this table saw extension wing/router table!
Franklin...I love Kreg, Just changed my mind to use Kreg for the lift and those super-sweet levelers! Going to check for purchase links, thanks for the vid.
Franklin, I agree about the dust collection (a must) along with a proper split fence (also a must). I have a router table that shares the same cabinet as a thicknessing planer (it flips around to get what I need). I bought and mounted a power feeder for the router so I could easily make a bunch of trim molding to match an early 1900's house. I had to have the router bits custom made but that's less expensive than paying a commercial company to do everything. I also matched the outside siding, again using a custom router bit. Having a power feeder kept everything going straight and at a proper speed to get a quality result. Mine mounts with four bolts, making it more-or-less easy to install and remove. Of course I also added long table in-feed and out-feed extensions to the router table to make sure the wood didn't flop all over the place. These were made to easily attach and remove, something you could do on your table saw as long as you had the room. My shop isn't long enough so I moved everything outside. Routing/molding 14-16 ft DF/hemlock takes a lot of room but it was worth it and I had a lot of fun doing it.
FRANKLIN. Nice one. I actually did something similar to this a couple of years ago. To keep it cheap i built my own lift system. Then I did the same sort of thing at the other end of my saw but this time fitted an jig saw underneath. With an extra long blade it doubles well as a type of band saw both have dedicated electrics. I have a fence for the router and a blade stabiliser for the jig saw. Both can be fitted and remover with ease I don't have plans or anything, but if it was of interest i can send a few pictures. It has been greatly used since inception and still functions well as a table saw
