I saw a video last year on You tube and a week later a plumbers helper did this trick for my bathroom sink. You keep the old ferule and just wrap Plumbers tape (teflon) over the old ferule, you go a little bit beyond the ferule. A year later...no leaks on my bathroom sink angle stop.
Hybrid approach is good too. Don't cut ferrule not all the way through, but enough so to weaken it so it can be stretched a bit using screw driver. Then it's easy to just pull it off using channel lock pillars.
Worked for me using pliers, your first method. Good thing I had too little room for a saw! Took a lot ,10 minutes, to back the nut off the copper pipe to get to the ferrule the build up was so bad. I burnished the copper pipe tip to remove a couple of decades of oxidation and sliding off became much easier. Burnishing and sanding also helped making the new angle stop go together smoothly.
I used the Husky brand tool from Home depot it was $20. I feel like the compression ring removal tools would benefit from the ability to have a slide hammer weight to generate some impact / shock on the pull. Also, a big factor is if the previous installer over-tightened the compression fitting to the point where the pipe is dented / or distorted. finally if the pipe is messed up it is usually easy to solder and small extension to mount the new compression fitting.
I invented a much easier/free way if you happen to have some extra copper tubing lying around that is the same diameter as the one coming out of the wall. Cut a small piece of tubing (as small as you can) so that it looks like a small ring. Insert that ring inside the water supply valve that you just removed (or inside the one you want to replace it with; doesn't matter). Then tighten the valve back onto the wall tubing. That extra spacer/ring will force the ferrule off from where it was stuck when you begin to tighten the valve's compression nut.
Hey Dave; I had to look for this video and this comment to come back and thank you for your idea. I used this same method with a 1/4" long piece of 1/2" pipe and was able to remove the ferrule quite easily. In the past I pulled one out with pliers but it was tough and I had to put a lot of force and caused some scratches, but this method worked for me and I'm grateful for your comment.
I did this recently but be careful if the old ferrule has left a indent in the pipe because when you put the new one on it can leak. I had to end up cutting off a piece of the copper pipe to have a "undented" surface. No leaks. But if cutting it off leaves you with too short a piece sticking out of the wall then you will need to solder on an extension as I did. Coupler, piece of pipe, torch and solder. Worked great but took time especially under a confined area. Tip..use pieces of sheet metal to protect the walls under the sink if you are soldering as you don't want to set it on fire.
Great video, thanks. I was never able to twist and pull to get the old sleave off, but Home Depot had a tool for only $10 that made it somewhat easier.
@@nathaniel781 Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing: Armour Line Adjustable Faucet Handle and Compression Sleeve Puller www.homedepot.com/p/Armour-Line-Adjustable-Faucet-Handle-and-Compression-Sleeve-Puller-RP77233/306693291 SKU# 306693291
Don't know if this was right or wrong, but I heated the ring (with the thought heat would expand it) with a torch at the same time that I worked the ring out with pliers. It seemed to work fine. Replaced with a new compression valve and no leaks.
Maybe you could heat the ring and pipe together, then spay water inside the pipe and /or drip some water between the ring and the wall to cool / shrink it then pull the ring.
This video is fine for under bathroom sinks but under my kitchen sink I have two dual shut off valves and you can't get to the Ferrell because it is on a tee with the anti-hammer cylinder and the nut covers up the ring completely. I was using a Husky Puller from Home Depot that costs a little more than $11 so very reasonable but it doesn't fit into the end of the tee so I can't get this puller to screw into the nut. I even tried the long outside grippers to grab the nut but it kept slipping off. I even tried holding the fingers with channel locks but the ends just bent outwards when applying the inner screw! I ordered the puller from the English Tool Company and now I am just waiting for it to arrive. The other problem I see is that everyone at Home Depot told me to replace the valves with the Shark Bite Push On valves so I purchased them but there doesn't seem to be 0.95" pipe length that the valves recommend. I mentioned this to an older employee in the plumbing department at Home Depot and he told me as long as I can get the push on valve on and it doesn't pull off, I should be OK. I also had purchased the little tool that you use to get the push on valves off if I have to. I told him I could put the removal tool on the pipe to try to have some room when putting on the new valve to get the valve off if needed to but there only seems to be around 1/2" total pipe length there so it's going to be a tight fit! What do you think? Do you have any suggestions? Thanks.
Wouldnt recommend pulling off with channel locks. Too much force could crush the copper pipe on the end and the new compression ring wont go back on. Spend $10 and get the tool.
If you take the blade off of the saw you can cut the ferrule more parallel with the pipe so there's less chance of damaging the pipe. Here's a video showing the technique. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sGaC9JoFbwY.html
If you're unable to slide off the o-ring on the copper pipe with the use of channel-locks spray a little WD-40 onto the copper, let it sit for a while and then use the channel locks again to grip the o-ring and slide it off the copper. WD-40 works GREAT for this problem. 👍👍👍👍
Just buy the removal tool! For the $20 cost of the tool and your FREE labor versus the $200 service call for a plumber that alone should put a smile on the face of cheapest homeowner.
Made by Husty, $10. It's the same one pictured at the beginning of the video (top right) for $40. I just worked on 6 valves without any issue. Definitely review other RU-vid video about how to use it correctly, as the instruction on the package is more than confusing.
Had to saw mines off. For the toilet cutoff valve, carefully, ended up putting very tiny cuts in the pipe. Panicked, when I seen water shooting out. Got some electrical duct tape, no more leaks. Told my wife I'm a dyi guy. Her response: 👀
The fact is most of the time, you only need to replace the front portion of the valve: handle and the water stopper. Leave the rear part of the valve alone.
This is soo flawed.. Once the compression ferrule is compressed that's it.. You nwver want to use an old compression nut and ferrule.. Buy the proper tool and stop mickey mousing it
@@Mixwell1983 I do it often. If it's in good shape, no need to pull it and risk other issues. Just put on a new valve, tighten her down, check for leaks, and done
Just buy the tool, if you can afford a hacksaw, the assorted blades that go with it, and the channel lock and visegrip pliers, spend the $15 and get the tool. Is all that time and aggravation worth not having to spend $15? You drove to the store to get the valve which probably cost $9.00, fifteen feet down the aisle is the tool hanging on w peg hook for $15, get it, carefully ooen the package, use it, and then return it so the next guy or gal can do the same thing.
Good video... BUT, you don't address if the pipe is so short you can't slide the nut back to the wall far enough to get a dremel or saw of some sort to the ferrule. In that case, you simply use a tool (compression puller).
Go to amazon and lookup "superior 1/2 ferrule puller" and get it.. This guy is a fucking idiot cheap ass that doesnt invest in proper tools.. Trust me that tool will save you headaches
@@Mixwell1983 Actually, I have that exact puller... and, it's sometimes a pain in the ass. As I said, sometimes you can't get the nut far enough back to the wall to expose the compression loop/sleeve. Either way, I bought the "Pasco 13-2706 Compression Sleeve Puller Tool" and it's superior to anything I've used. Super solid unit, that isn't problematic like the one you linked to.
NEVER EVER CUT YOUR COPPER PIPE.. Get superior tools on Amazon for $25... I have one and have used it about four times and it has really save me do not ever use a hacksaw to cut your copper pipes ever ever ever ever ever Purchase the puller in the too right not for $40 but for $20...
