This video details how to remove the pins from a GM E38 PCM harness. This is a Ly6 harness. After looking around and finding no info on how to do this, I decided to make a video to help others.
Great video . I had a wire that was shorting and needed to replace it with a spare. Your video helped me to repair the circuit by removing the pin instead of cutting and splicing the wire. Thank you from Trinidad 🇹🇹
Fwiw, none of the back inside needs to come apart. Take off the ecu facing cover to access the release catches. The wires will pull through the rubber grommet grid and pin alignment grid with no trouble. For reassembly, just make sure to align the pin when inserting so that it grabs the catch properly.
"if you can't get that off you probably shouldn't be doing time rest of this yourself" Reeeally helpful guy. With all the many types of connectors out there it isn't hard to get them apart, but it can be hard to do it without breaking anything. Getting that plastic wire cap cover off without risk of breaking it was the only reason I came here. Ironically, what you did show me is what I didn't need, and feel if "you can't do the depinning without a video you shouldn't be working on it"
I know this is old but thanks for this video. I have a Bobcat S750 that had a damaged connection to the ECU. After much searching for the connector I found your video, which helped me id and locate a new Molex MX123 connector. Long story but nothing else like it helped.
rodneyhitz Thank you for the awesome comment. It really makes it worthwhile to make a video and have it help someone out so much!! Thank you for sharing your story. Even though the videos are older I still keep up to date as possible with comment replies. It was tough for a while because I wasn't getting notifications for my video comments. If you haven't already repaired the connectors/connections I suggest soldering the connections as well as crimping. The Molex crimping tool that is supposed to be used for these AND the older GM PCM/ECU terminals is VERY, VERY, expensive. We had to purchase one for our shop at work (robotic applications use almost identical Molex pins) and it was over $550. However, it makes the exact perfect crimp. Some of the aftermarket ones, actually, pretty much ALL of them, don't properly crimp the insulation tangs and the wire is left incredibly insecure! So soldering them is just some extra insurance against poor connections and wires pulling out. If you need any help ID'ing terminals or connector bodies just let me know. I have quite a bit of resources on industrial/commercially used wire termination and connection products!
You're welcome, glad it helped! Technically there is a "tool" to take these out bit it's SO much faster to remove them this way because you don't have to struggle with stuffing the tool into each hole. Especially if you are repinning and entire plug!
Noob question here - why would you pull wires out of the plug rather than just cut the wires you don't need? I'm sure there's a good reason, but just don't know what it is.
Thanks for explaining Craig. Kia Sorento with an LS???? That is freaking sweet! I'm putting a 5.3 into my Volvo 960. The wiring is the most intimidating part of the swap to me. The physical install of the engine and tranny is not a problem, but man when I look at that anaconda of wires leading from the engine - my knees get weak. LOL. I have to send the ECU off to delete the VATS, remove all the emissions and automatic transmission programming as I'm running an old school manual. I figure I'll do as much as I can and if worse comes to worse I'll drag it to a shop to handle the electrical stuff if I can't.
It is if you plan on re-pinning the harness rather then soldering it. It also makes it much easier to untangle the wiring with all the plugs still connected, rather then cutting the harness to pieces. Then you can lay out the harness possibly not even needing to lengthen anything. You also won't necessarily need all of the wiring connections on a swap so removing the pin/wire looks a lot nicer and is less likely to cause a future issue then leaving a cut wire behind.
Yes, if you check out the other videos on my channel you can see the details. It's a 6.0L (Ly6) I swapped into my KIA Sorento SUV. It's also sporting the 6L90e transmission.
@@OverRevvedRacing is this a gen IV harness??? What diagram did you use to find out what wires to delete? I have a 2007 suburban engine and harness that I'm going to start on this winter with very few RU-vid videos to help with what wires I need and don't need.
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 I found the harness for the 2009 Silverado 2500 that the engine came out of. The wires I didn't need I picked out of the diagram myself. Basically leaving all the engine to computer communications wires intact. I got rid of the wires that I didn't need. For example, the transfer case wiring, the wires for the alarm system, fans (I used different plugs and integrated the KIA stock relays in those).
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 you're welcome. If you have any specific questions I can see if I can point you in the right direction. Look me up on FB www.FaceBook.com/LSxSorento
Before making this video maybe you should of learned how to properly remove these terminals from the connector!! A screw driver and a knife is not the right way nor the proper tools to remove the terminals!! NOT GOOD!!!!
Ray Hobson No reason to be a jerk, if you already know how to do it and have the "proper tool" then feel free to use it. This way works absolutely perfectly without having to buy some over priced tool.
Assuming the tune is the proper one for the engine, yes. VATS is the only thing that will stop it from running if the harness and tune are correct. I had issues with the DBW throttle body plug wiring. It wasn't the "normal" wire colors I found on Ls1Tech for the "LS family harness colors". There were a couple wires different on my specific throttle body because it wouldn't idle or take ANY throttle at first. Don't remember what exactly I had to change. It's been a WHILE.