REPAIR - CAM870 TRIGGER | AIRSOFT

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REPAIR - CAM870 TRIGGER | AIRSOFT
Repair, don’t despair! After noticing that the trigger on my CAM870 AOW was rather unresponsive and difficult to pull, I decided that it was time to fix it.
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To successfully fire a shotgun, you pull the trigger, witch pushes the trigger bar forward, against the sear.
The Sears rotation releases the hammer.
The hammer will then fall on the firing pin, in turn firing the shell.
STEP 1: THE PROBLEM
So why is my trigger not working?
The problem is that the distance between the sear and the trigger bar is slightly too long, which in turn means that the sear won’t rotate far enough to release the hammer.
Thus making pew pew, hard hard.
STEP 2: DIFFERENT SOLUTIONS
The first solution is to buy a new trigger group and replace the old one.
The second way is to replace only the trigger. The downside of this is that APS don’t sell black triggers, so you have to settle for colors, like smurf-blue or TactiCute pink.
The third option, and the one I will show today, is to transplant working parts from a new trigger to my original black one.
STEP 3: DISASSEMBLY
So lets disassemble it:
Trigger spring, rear pin, trigger pin, and lastly the trigger.
For more detailed disassembly instructions, watch our cam 870 trigger group disassembly video.
STEP 4: MEASURING
So what sets them apart lengthwise?
My black original trigger’s bar is 18.2mm long.
The smurf-blue trigger bar is 18,6mm long.
Apparently, roughly half a millimeter makes a difference from no-pew to pew.
STEP 5: TESTING NEW TRIGGER
Before I tamper with the transplant, I confirm the function of the new trigger by trying it out.
Now to transplant the trigger bars.
STEP 6: REMOVING RIVETS
I start by placing the black trigger in my drill press vice, and using a 2.5mm drill bit, I remove the head of the rivet.
Next I remove the head of the rivet on the smurf blue trigger.
I can now disassemble both triggers, by removing the rivets and trigger bars.
STEP 7: TRIAL AND ERROR
Time to transplant the working trigger bars to the black trigger.
This is harder than expected.
I tried to use a regular M2 screw and nut to join the trigger bars and trigger, but that resulted in too much play in the mechanism.
Threading the hole in the trigger in M3 won't work either, since the material is simply too strong.
Therefore I decided to turn the old rivet into a makeshift nut.
STEP 8: RIVET INTO NUT
Let's get to it. I place one of the old rivets in my drill press, and make a 1.8mm hole, which I thread in 2mm’s.
This is a delicate and long process which will require a lot of patience.
Step 9: INSTALLING
I place the drilled and tapped rivet into the trigger.
Next I cut an appropriate M2 screw to length.
And then install it.
Step 10: TEST FITTING
I test fit the modified trigger into the trigger group, and make sure the screw and rivet don't interfere with other parts.
STEP 11: TEST FIRE
New and improved!
And by that, I mean… factory original… kinda… how it was supposed to be… hursomhelst

Опубликовано:

8 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 8

@bonlappen3000 4 года назад

My first cam870 mk3 fired but sometimes it didn't push the shell pin down enough to fire is it because it has a weak spring?

@SpecialWeaponsAndPlastic 4 года назад

Are you talking about the valve at the base of the shell? If so your firing pin might be slightly too short, the o-rings or valves on your shells might need lubrication or, as you say, the hammer spring may be or have become slightly too weak for some unknown reason.

@BJU207 5 лет назад

I have an issue I've yet come across answers to. My trigger does fire but after I release it. Is it a break in problem? The gun is second hand but not fired a lot, I can tell. What should I do? Thanks, good viedeos as always!

@SpecialWeaponsAndPlastic 5 лет назад

Like always, it is hard to analyze the problem without the replica in hand, but it does sound like a trigger bar related problem. If it's only marginally too short, the hammerer might trip the sear after the trigger is released, since the tension on the sear spring is gone, but the hammer is still exerting force on the sear. Thus pushing the sear rearward, allowing the hammer to drop. Investigating the trigger bar for length, the sear for any damage and the hammer would be advised.

@leendertrietschotenvan4936 6 лет назад

Hey man, really enjoying your videos for the cam870! You explain everything very well! just this week I got my aps cam870 mk2. It's my first Co2 operated weapon, but I can't find any guides on how to properly take care of the valves and prevent leaks on the gasbolt. Do you have any experience with that? Anyway thanks for all the info from your vids!

@SpecialWeaponsAndPlastic 6 лет назад

Glad that you like the stuff I make! I try to be as through as possible. Sadly, since the gas in bolt MkII is a limitation, I prefer to use Mk1 CAMs. That way, as long as I have gased up shells, I'm still in the fight. If I get hold of a MkII in the future I will disassemble it and report back. But for now, I'll stick to my Mk1s.

@MWick-kn2xb 6 лет назад

Do you think there's a way to get the cam 870 to slam fire?

@SpecialWeaponsAndPlastic 6 лет назад

That depends on what you are willing to accept in terms of slam-fire. If, by slam-fire, you mean the true sense of the word, like the Ithaca M37, I would say that it would be very difficult, but not impossible. You'd have to completely redesign the entire trigger group, and maybe even the bolt, depending on how you implement your solutions. Ideally the sear would hold the hammer in the cocked position until the bolt is completely in battery with a shell in the chamber. And once the bolt is fully forward, a mechanism would disengage the sear and automatically release the hammer, provided that the trigger is constantly depressed. This is not the case on a CAM870, nor the Remington M870 it replicates. It was designed to specifically not slam-fire. So if you can keep any stock parts from a CAM870 trigger group, like the carrier, sear or action release, and make it slam-fire effectively is doubtful. You could keep the trigger, the pins, and maybe the hammer. The rest needs to be redesigned from scratch. You'd need to design a sear disconnect, redesign the trigger A simple work-around has been done on the Rem870 board, but I'm doubtful that it works as well as advertized: www.rem870.com/2012/05/20/slam-fire-remington-870/ If you are willing to settle for a slightly suboptimal solution, of just having the hammer ride the bolt, then that can be done with some simple filing of the sear and/or hammer in the appropriate spots, or alternatively making the trigger bar longer, thus always making the sear release the hammer if the trigger is pulled. This is however unreliable, and even if you manage to get it just right, you'd have to work the forend extremely hard to get a shell to go off, since the hammer only works with the same speed as the action is cycled. Another, less than desirable, solution is to simply fix the firing pin (or in airsoft: valve knocker) in place. This would guarantee that whenever the pin hits the valve on the shell, the shell will go off immediately. Converting the shotgun into a slam-fire-only shotgun. The risk of an out-of-battery-discharge would be very likely though. So I would personally not recommend nor attempt this. I must however beggar the question: why slam-fire? If you need to get that volume of fire downrange, that quickly, then best-case-scenario you have the wrong ammunition. Worst-case-scenario you've got the wrong kind of weapon. When you encounter multiple enemies you need to work the environment to your advantage. Engage the targets and then immediately retreat to a position where you can handle them more effectively, negating their larger numbers. Otherwise get a rifle, M16 or M249 preferably, and let rip. But concerning slam-firing shotguns, the Ithaca M37 is the way to go. Sadly there are no such gas, or gas in shell, airsoft shotguns. But lobbying APS directly might yield results? Also, you could just buy a cheap and cheerful shotgun which is already famous for having slam-firing problems: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Feg4SCJx68s.htmlm30s I'd wait until they're on sale before buying one though. They went for 99 dollars during christmas sales, and I think they'll be back in that region given their reputation. You could try it yourself and let me know how it works out. Please take photos if you do.