I'm a mechanic myself with an RB25DET Neo motor and gotta say.. you are so lucky to get those studs out. I had to drill out and re-thead the holes.. 😅 Amazing stuff, keep up the good work 👏
just came home from school and i saw the little bell icon in the top and said "it better be a prizzamike video" and it was, i love coming home to your content it makes my day
So I started with this video a couple months ago and watched the process that followed. Well I spent the last couple days binge watching from the start of the playlist and boy does this have me motivated. I have bitched and complained about the amount of plastidip overspray my M3 has but that is nothing compared to what you've accomplished. Great job, man!
There is some merit to your explanation of the down pipe causing leverage on the manifold, but to to be honest. This is just an RB thing. The manifold warps, as you noticed, its quite difficult to remove even with only 3 studs? It's quite common for RB studs to snap, as I'm sure you're aware. Amazing persistence as always! Smart move going straight to the welding the nut onto the broken stud! Thanks again for sharing your story. Restoring my own 180 and watching your videos has helped motivate me to get outside and get things done!
You may want to put a straight edge on that manifold flange, make sure it is flat before you re-install. Also try to use MLS exhaust gaskets not those perforated ones
Hey, amazing work you doing here. Couple tips, when removing head studs, apply some heat to them, if the engine is in the car and runs, then let it run 2 or 3 minutes and then remove them, in this scenario, it's harder you could try with a blowtorch and it will help most of the times. Another good tip i can gave you is something that when building engines we use to do, and is to use a tap and die and rethread the holes, even if they look fine. We always do that, it help taking out any junk that may be there and cause to snap a stud again in the future, plus, if its something that gets torqued then you might not have an accurate measurement
Traditional powder coat won't handle the heat that your manifold will produce, so that worked out with the powder coat place having their equipment down. I love seeing how far this car has come! Keep at it!
If you can find one I would 100% replace that manifold. So many heat cycles on a straight 6 manifold and they warp like crazy. Just had to do one the other day. The holes were so oblong it wasn't saveable. Save the headache if you can! Sucks that parts are so hard to get for that engine here. Good luck man! Looking forward to the next one
Dude I'm so glad those studs came of easily for you. I had a plug strip on my engine the other day and had to use a crap ton of heat and an extractor. So watching you get those out was cathartic.
Always looking up to see if there's new content. Seems like Mike will upload a new vid pretty soon since his upload time schedule ir usually around vid/week, sometimes we have to wait for a little longer, but that's to be expected if the build is progressing slowly, but surely. Gosh I want to see the 240sx back on the roads! Will be waiting for new episodes as always!
Glad to see more progress as ALWAYS!!!! Butttttt I’m thankful Tim is ok!! Terrible and sad but he lives to see another day! And end of the day your all that matters in that situation material items are always replaceable!! Keep your head up Tim and be safe as well!! Your comeback is coming soooon!!!! 🙌🏻
aaaaah its getting so close to being done!!! been following since the beginning of the rebuild. im so stoked you're already getting ready to put the engine back in man! huge props for not abandoning the original chassis.
I had to chuckle at the "Just Needs a Door" shirt. lol. I was watching a video where a guy was welding nuts to exhaust studs, but he was trying to loosen them while they were still hot and broke them like 5 times. I always let them cool off a little, too. Seems to work better.
Welding the nuts on the broken studs was really smart. It probably helped getting them out the fact that they would have been glowing from the welder. Suggested it before but I think one of the induction heaters would be a life saver for you. Love the build!
changing out the rear main seal is good insurance, pretty standard operating procedure while doing a freshen up. I advise you dont use grease or any oil type substance to lubricate the throwout bearing on the output shaft flange, or any grease to lubricate the clutch plate on the output shaft. Your flywheel doesnt have blue spots on the clutch face. Blue spots are superheated drops of oil/grease that appear on flywheels that have had grease and oil between the clutch face and the flywheel. The flywheels crack under these blue stains. A leaking rear main also causes these blue spots. You can wreck a relatively new flywheel this way. Use graphite powder, never use grease/oil. Never use a cast flywheel on one of those bangers, you could lose your feet. be careful with flywheels. I'll give you a hot tip on clutch pressure plates. there is a casting in there, the thing that the clutch plate presses against...that casting varies in grade depending on who made it in china. The good stuff has a high pitched ring to it when struck with a spanner. the shit stuff has a very dull thud sound. Unfortunately the clutch plate has to be dissassembled to isolate that casting in order to do the test. Another hot tip, get a pressure plate with the highest clamp pressure you can. They have advertised clamp pressure ratings. the way you guys drive is always going to hard on an organic clutch plate, I'd be trying to get a 6 puck. Theres actually a lot of tech goes into a clutch. If the car has a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder and if theyre cheap, if change that out right about now too. Contact a performance clutch place, maybe they can set you up with one for free and you can advertise it. Maybe they can let you into their shop to film. They rebuild the pressure plates for more clamp and do all sorts of machining.
Ah hell ya that's my banana!!!! Can't believe it's been a yr almost that's crazy the amount you have gotten done, your doing great dude stay focused, another awesome video from my favorite fabricator !!! I can't be a patron, but I'm here every video you got this...
my rb20 snapped almost all of them removing my manifold when resealing my motor. i would recommend stover nuts when you reinstall the turbo and get rid of the factory locking tabs
Hell yeah, I hope you finish in time! Also, I second the use of PB Blaster for getting out those bolts without snapping them. It may not seem like it, but removing old bolts causes a lot of friction and heat that cause failure. If a bolt takes a fair amount of force for its size, I will apply lubricant and back the bolt out, tighten the bolt to get more lubricant in to the threads, and then fully back out the screw. It may be good to let the screw rest in between that process to allow it to cool. It feels tedious, but it's less time consuming than chasing a broken bolt or stud.
Measure the OD, ID and thickness of those washers and get them off McMaster Carr. They've got the best consistent quality for copper washers. Most of the kits off Amazon and the like aren't quite the right grade and I've always had problems getting them go seal. McMaster Carr is made for industry, and while sometimes a little expensive, it is always acceptable quality. McMaster Carr also has studs and nuts. Not the cheapest, but the grading scale is real and you can buy in bulk. I also like the dorman studd kits too. You can get those off rock auto affordably.
You should get the flange on the manifold resurfaced at a machine shop. Powder coat wouldn't be a good idea, it will burn/burn off after a couple rounds.
I was mere inches from being hit on my left side a couple days ago. Someone in a truck blew through an intersection late at night and when i saw the super bright lights to my side i took a slight right into a plaza parking lot. If it wasn't for that stupid little side entrance my z31 would have been toast. And most likely me too... Keep your eyes peeled and stay safe out there everyone!
I can’t believe how easy those studs came out I did a Dodge Ram and snapped almost every stud and it took me about 2 days of drilling them out and chasing threads
Drinking and driving is a real deal. Speaking from experience. It's a hard lesson and even harder to pay. I'm not gunna tell you don't do it because I remember what its like thinking I was the best. Just be safe, be moderate, and be responsible. Because I went from the best, to being no better than the worst.
For the header studs u might as well replace them all as well as the head, because the headder might be slightly bent. Will save u a lot of headaches in the future.
the fact that all 3 places you went to didn't have/couldn't do what you needed also, can't believe it's been almost a year since the crash happened. sure as hell doesn't feel like it
Hi mate I am new the channel. I warman bro is nice to see ya like . Big love for the channel and the work u do on your cars like. Completely love the last videos about the honda civic engine like 👍 sick work like 👍 thank you for the video m8
Saying that seeing the car afrer the wreck was surreal, i feel that. I flipped a car by hitting my right front corner on a tree stump after missing a turn. I was panicking so bad but I calmed way down when I got out and saw the car. I should've been dead for sure
check your local autoparts stores sometimes they have crush washer assortments, like a package with multiple sizes in it. might have the size you need.
P.S. great job on the stud removal, that's exactly how it should be done. some people really struggle with the concept and end up drilling. even if you have to weld multiple nuts on because they are completely corroded in, that trick always works, the only exception is cross threaded bolts but sometimes even those will come out that way too.
Hay man love watching the build I also have a channel called boostedz I had an RB in my 240z I just recently remove for a new build but I have so many parts after market and oem for those RB motor let me know if the is anything you need I may be able to help out with I know I have a brand new clutch and though out bearings in the box still and I have a twin disc clutch master as well as for the exhaust studs you can buy those at oriely auto or auto zone and ever ace hard ware has them you just need to know the thread pitch if I remember right it as 8mm by 1.25 thread pitch but best way is take one on the good ones you have and go match it up with some new ones at the store! Good luck man and keep up the hustle!
Can you give a short build breakdown of your RB in a future video? I was always under the impression that you were running an RB26. Now that I know it's actually an RB25, curious to know what you've done to it
What thickness of wire do you use when welding, you inspired me to try to fix rust on my 240 myself and I just want to make sure I'm going to do it right without burning the whole thing to the ground
measure the copper crush washer (should be in mm).. order from Amazon. as for the stud I'd go with some titanium.. speedfactory racing sells all kinds of sizes and thread pitch. good luck bud
i think u said something about this in your last video but you should probably try get the boys to help u sand the car and give it a fresh coat of Black paint at the bottom and white for the parts you'll see
You should try and find a nice new turbo kit and ditch the old rusty stuff or spend a few hours and port and polish the manifold, head , and the rear housing for the turbo should give it a little more pep in its step
I agree to you message. Even there is a driver minding his/her own business,do safe driving, and he/she follows the road laws, the idiot drivers ruined his/her day + his/her car were also ruined.
I feel bad for lawn chair racer, my car was wrecked not as fast but along the passenger side by a Hyundai Elantra running a stop sign, there was prices of the bumper in the door, and it was the same stop sign someone ram two weeks earlier killing my dads friend
