Man, you fired it up, I heard the knocking, and my heart sank. Got me! I'm glad to see the belt sander worked. I just ordered the stainless hardware and Fel-Pro gaskets and will be knocking this out on my wife's truck soon. That Hemi tick is getting on my nerves. Great video!
You sir are a genius. I just finished sanding both manifolds down after watching your video and picking up a belt sander. This specific model wasn't available any longer but they had a $99 one which was pretty similar. Both sides were warped, driver side more significantly than the passenger side. I tried using the Harbor Freight sanding belts first but that just wasn't cutting it, ended up running back out to pick up the 50 grit Diablo from HD like you used and it was much better. I had already purchased the OEM replacement bolts before seeing what you used so I'm going with those, hope that doesn't come back to bite me instead of using the ones you did. Getting those suckers out was a real pain in the neck, had a total of 7 broken bolts across both sides. 4 had enough sticking out to grab onto and back them out fairly easily, but 3 of them were broken flush with the cylinder heads so they had to be drilled out. Takes a fair amount of creativity to get at the right angle in that tight space to drill them out and extract. Everywhere I have checked the driver's side manifold is out of stock so replacement was not an option, only repair ('17 2500 Tradesman 6.4 HEMI). So thank you for this video, very helpful.
My 2017 has 65k on the dash and I think I'm going to have to do this very soon. I'm installing headers might as well since I'll have it apart. Good video man.
I realize I am 4yrs late seeing this. My 17' Ram just hitting 100,000 miles is due. Pretty sure I got all the hardware ready for next weekend. But hey! Well documented video and explaination of what I will go thu after you. BIG THANKS for sharing and have a great Navy Day! ~~LIKED & SUSCRIBED~~
I'm sure that those exhaust manifolds are glowing red at constant highway speeds. I for one would not want that blazing heat fully exposed under my hood with the heat shield delete. That heat most likely would shorten the life of any rubber or plastic in the vicinity.
Great job! Just had both sides replaced at the dealership! It was a kick in the teeth! But I'm not able to do the work. But I appreciate seeing what they had to do. Thanks!
i don’t even wanna know how much for both. dealer wants 600 for labor and 300+ for part just for passenger side. all my stuff comes in this week and i’m ready to tackle it!!
There's no recall to be had on these of ANY make/model where cast iron manifolds are used with aluminum heads the cast iron manifold coeffecient of thermal expansion combined with the fact that the rear is where the most heat collects AND the pressure on the rear of the manifolds from the weight of the exhaust system causes the bolts to eventually break. Pure and simple! Those that "remedy" the issue with headers is because steel expands/contracts less than cast iron!
Your video was Spot On!!! THANK You For Making It!!!!😁...But your Buddy Thought he was Funny?🤣 Making the Noise I was like Helllll No!!!..😤what Jus Happened to the 5.7???...Great Job!!!
Thank you so much, Great video, and details. Love that you go over the parts and tools you used. Thank you and cant wait to see what other videos you have that can help me more. God bless
Great job. I've got this job coming up on my 2020 Ram. The only difference is that I am going to install headers since the manifolds will be off anyways. Thanks for showing me how easy it is.
Thank you for the detail, I'm going shortie headers if I am taking it all apart, but your video and detail will greatly assist with that. I have exhaust tick in exact same spot, hope I get that lucky on the bolt!!
@@nickbreit438 I read this about the bbk headers. I chose the next option which are power Go headers. All tig welded. The only difference is they are designed for street versus the bbk's are designed for "off road" aka sporty-ish
The BBK header were tig welded as well. I think the metal is just thin and crack around the welds. Not sure how the other brands hold up but hopefully they last longer.
Really good video on this topic, thanks for sharing your technique. I’m curious, now that it’s been almost a year, how is the repair holding up? The manifold won’t re-warp? Thanks
For anyone thinking of going the shorty header route, the most popular pick is BBK but there are numerous reports of the welds cracking. The next top choice is PowerGo shortys. All tig welded no reports of cracking. They are more difficult to install than the BBK's so if you're not experienced with a wrench it may be a bit intimidating. And don't use the gasket that comes with them, get the fel-pro gasket like in this video.
If it’s a 21mm, the closest imperial socket would be a 13/16. If you want to convert from metric to standard, you’d divide by 25.4 and if you go from standard to metric, you’d go multiply by 25.4
@@KollynJ It worked very well for me! I had some minor issues with keeping the belt on the sander tight. It was slipping but once I got that solved, I was able to sand them pretty straight!
7:00 literally me last time I went to use my parts washer. So annoying when you have to fix everything to fix your truck! It is what it is I suppose. You have a good personality and voice for RU-vid. I bet you'd blow up if you did some interesting projects.
@@tattedup1189 Bolts and manifolds. After watching a few of these videos, I figured I better just get it all done so it doesn't create more problems before I decide to sell it.
@@JakePkz lol hear that gonna get mine done with stocks i had the bbk kit ordered and in my garage but so many mixed reviews i sold then decided to go stock route in the next week or two
I have a 2016 with the same problem and it was like that when I bought it off the lot with 7 miles on it. The salesman told me it was the Dodge tick. It's been like that ever since. I'm not looking forward to having someone do this to mine.
@@DL101ca I wasn't aware that that was what was wrong with it at the time, I only learned that from researching videos recently and watching this one. I definitely distinctly remember having a conversation with the salesman asking why they all sound like they have a lifter tapping. When the truck is new it doesn't sound like an exhaust leak because the gap is so small its barely a sound, but it's definitely a sound you can hear. He told me "oh, that's the dodge tick". Back in 2016 when they were new no one knew this was an issue. And after driving multiple that all sounded like that, when you're there, and it's common, you think it's some normal sound they make. They are over torqued from the factory and when it heats up the bolt breaks off on the back passenger side closest to the fire wall. The specs were wrong on the assembly line. Looking back now I'll never ever buy a new car with any sounds that are abnormal but at the time it's easy think something is "normal" when multiple new ones all sound the same. I still have it and have 103k on it now but it is the same problem. Lucky I know what it is now after researching and realizing I can do it myself from this great video.
I wondered if not putting the studs back in would help solve it since it seems it’s always the studs that break not bolts well please let me know if that cured it
The studs are only used to mount the heat shields. They break because they are at the ends of the manifold and get all the stress from them warping. Resurfacing the manifolds fixed the issue and has been fine for another 30k miles.
Nice video! Getting ready to order the 661-1007 bolts for my OEM manifold. So them being 50mm went in to the head enough and fits with the factory manifold?
Hi Buddy. I’m preparing to do the exact same job to my 2015 R 1500 laramie, 5.7. Yours is the first video where i’ve seen someone delete the heat shields. I want to do the same. Should I have any concerns? Thank you for your great videos.
There is no advantage to doing away with them i just couldnt get the correct replacement bolts from Mopar due to covid at the time. I still dont have them on and havent had any issues.
I've owned a 69 Cuda 340, a 68 charger 440, a 70 challenger 383 2 barrel, my dad only owned mopar from the 60's on and not once ever did we get an exhaust leak from the exhaust manifolds and bolts NEVER broke on those V8'S!! How is on a 2017 Ram 1500 it is a constant problem?? Get them fixed they break again now I find out the manifolds warp, with all this modern technology I thought things were suppose to get more advanced, easier and better NOT!! Try changing your own oil!! What a pain!
@@DL101ca why didn't they create exhaust manifolds that are compatible with aluminum heads? Modern technology should give them the ability to do that I would think!
Wanted to check on the work done. I replaced my manifolds 10 months ago with new ones. They already warped and bolts broke(Doorman parts). Curious if sanding down current warped ones lasts longer since they’ve aged
Can you use a belt sander to resurface some shorty headers? They rock slightly if I put them on a flat surface or is the flange gonna get flat as I torque down the bolts
Short answer is yet but i would be mindful of the flange thickness. The thinner it is the more prone to warpage. Also the flange to primary tube weld could be compromised if you have to take a lot of material off.
How are the ARP bolts holding up? I installed BBK shorty headers and just found multiple cracked welds. Only lasted a little over 2 years. Thinking of switching back to the manifolds with ARP bolts.
@@jameswilliams5428 yeah i feel you, but dont worry about it too much man. Consider yourself lucky if you dont have any leaks yet at 80k and if it does as long as the ticking goes away after its warm you know you’re good
@@jameswilliams5428 i have an 05 hemi myself. Been tickin a long time and dread the repair. Im scared the bolts are broken at the cylinder head. I’ll get to it one day lol. Haven’t had any reliability or performance problems yet. Maybe a drop in mpg. But thats about it
BDiesel Manifolds boast a robust, thicker design, and are constructed from high-silicon ductile iron to combat warping, ensuring your vehicle remains at peak performance for the long haul.
@@buddiesgarage8998 what bolt size did you go with exactly i see you showed in video the 1003 ones but then had a side note on bottom of your screen with a different part number ?
Honestly because that was the bolt that broke that holds them on and no dealer had them when i needed to get this done. No performance gain what so ever.
@@buddiesgarage8998 cool, i was hoping it was a hack to keep the manifolds cooler, lol ,i thought you were on to something, im doing my 2012 now, and its the driver side "its getting worse as i go along two manifold bolts broke as i was removing them even after it sat overnight with pb blaster "man that stuff stinks" made me sick and thats why it sat overnight lol, i thought i was getting of easy with just one broke bolt when i started, now 3 & the last one is flush with the head, i only have a stick welder , and no way to drill were it is at with my large drill , i may have to take to a pro,,, anyway great vid and thanks for the get back maybe it get lucky and the super glue trick will work ,, yikes ! lol
About $500-$800 a set. Amazon has knock offs for $235, but if the BBKs have broken welds, what do you think the No name ones will do? If you’re gonna spend that much on shortys, go get the long tubes and have the exhaust reworked so you actually get a performance boost. Shortys only add 5-7 hp, and to get some that won’t leak, you’re gonna spend mad money. I’ll take the $70 belt sander or do the whole long tube job. Shortys are a waste of money.
