thanks a million for this. i tried fitting extended studs and had absolutely no idea bashing the studs back with a hammer was the way...in the end i gave it up as a job for later on...thanks again!
It was relatively easy. To get them back in I put the bolt on backwards and wedged a pickle fork between it and the hub. Got enough bite that I could wrench it tight and pull the stud all the way through. Took about 30 minutes for three of em.
Ok so now I have an idea of what is required if you do not have all the shop tools that some of the commentators are crowing about. As with any video showing how to take anything off , yes it would be nice to fix everything in one shot , but I came here to see a bolt replaced not the shoes and not the wheel cylinder. Good video.
I did the job for a friend for free just to make the video to show you how to replace the studs because I know how hard the drums are to take of but if you are going to be doing this kind of work there are a lot of things to look out for you can take pictures or ask someone that has some knowledge I just uploaded it because my first drum brakes were a nightmare to take off
Ok so if i just watched this right. All you have to do is hammer and impact the piss out of it and boom new studs. This might be my new favorite repair when I'm pissed off at my jeep
Damn that one was on there good wasn't it mine is a cheap 96 Cherokee and it came out really smooth the brakes are still good I hid it in the center are doing that helps
That's where I'll be next time I have to take that tire off. One broke previously but as I was taking it off I could tell if I kept going 2 more were going to break if I went all the way. Tightened them back up carefully till I get new studs and nuts.
There's a wheel cylinder clamp that pushes the wheel cylinder spring in. Remove the master cylinder cap. A Mityvac helps bleed the brakes. There are brake bleeder wrenches for disc and drum brakes. Brake spring return pliers helps R & R the return springs. Get the right hold-down spring pliers. Disc caliper piston depressor pushes the piston in to help install the caliper. It can also locate sticking calipers. Get pad shims if needed. Put pad grease on the pad to eliminate squeaking.
NYMetal Guy I just simply misspelled it. My dictionary wasn't working. I had my mine on other things. Thanks for pointing it out! I didn't realize I misspelled it. A pad depressor can help to push the piston in to replace pads. If you have to use force, it's sticking. Use pad grease to prevent chirping noise.
One day my car's LR wheel skidded at a stop sign. The wheel cylinder froze! That taught me to replace them rather than have body damage on my car and theirs! A stupid wheel cylinder isn't worth a lawsuit for bodily harm and medical bills. You can also have body damage on your car! So, replace the wheel cylinders. It's alot cheaper!!
Marty Stevens. You're a damn lie. Your cylinder didn't freeze. That bitch will leak before it freeze. And if it did freeze up, that was another issue with your brake system.
...or while you're in there, why not replace those worn down rear SHOES (not pads)?, or the worn out hardware (SPRINGS)?, or inspect and cut if nesc., or replace the drums if nesc.?, or replace the old crusty wheel cylinders? or bleed 'em out? And why bash the hell out of those busted studs and possibly bust, chip or fuck up something else that you didn't mean to hit? If they're stuck on from rust that bad, just soak an old rag with some gas, than place the rag over the front and back of the studs for an hour or so, the gas will eat off the rust better than any "liquid wrench" would and the studs do pop out much easier.
Hi, great video I have a Ford Van E250 2001 it is 8 lugs and I wanted to convert it to 5 lugs can you tell me if this is possible the parts of the E 150 5 lugs fit my Vam?
YIKES!! You could have easily wrecked your brand new lugs/studs that way! NEVER, EVER, EVER start a nut on ANYTHING with your impact! Start it by HAND or you could very easily ruin the threads on your brand new bolt/stud/lug, whichever it is that has threads on it.
I would suggest you have someone else proofread what you write, because your spelling makes some things difficult to read. Luckily, most of this is visual. Still... I kept having to pause it to figure out what you meant.
Thin shoes should be replaced, sure, but just the shoes. If a wheel cylinder isn't very old, stuck/frozen or leaking, why replace it? No real good reason to, but they are cheap enough to replace every 4 or 5 years or so, since they are NOT meant to last forever. The brake springs only need replacing if they are really worn, weak and/or easy to stretch out, or are really rusted up and won't stretch out. I normally only change springs at every other rear shoe change, unless the springs are in bad shape. GM rear brake spring kits are usually $10-$15 at most parts suppliers, each kit has springs for BOTH sides, so ya won't need two spring replacement kits. One thing most amateur's and non-mechanics never know, or realize, is that brake fluid IS an oil and is made with an ability to withstand high temps, which it needs to do, since brake parts can reach temps over well over 900f. As the fluid ages it loses it's "viscosity" and breaks down, same as motor oil does, and can lead to spongy brakes or even brake failure and should be pumped out and replaced with new fluid every two to three years. I know, you're saying' "But they didn't ever tell me that I need to do that when I bought my car, so why should I!" Well, Of course they didn't tell you, they WANT your entire braking system to wear down and fall apart!, That way shops, especially dealer service centers CAN overcharge you more for more parts and more labor! One other thing with front brakes; any and all rubber brake lines (hoses) should be changed about every 4 or 5 years. They do dry rot and/or wear down and begin to leak through or expand/inflate when you step on the brakes, which leaves you with less stopping pressure, which is not a good thing. I hate it whenever I open someones master cylinder reservoir up and it's filled with old, dirty, contaminated, burnt, black brake fluid and sludge, cause that means more work for me and more labor charge for you! Also, you should NEVER have to ADD ANY brake fluid, ever! As long your braking system has not had any leaks or been opened there is no reason to ever add any!, It does NOT and can not evaporate, it's oil, NOT water. If your brake fluid is low, that is only because your brakes have worn down, so the level went down. When you replace your pads or shoes and/or rotors and drums, the level will be full again. Keep that fluid clean and fresh and your brakes will help you stop more reliably.
NYMetal Guy On both my cars, the LR wheel cylinders were frozen! I had a normal pedal but the wheel cylinders were frozen. The pistons were stuck in so the pedal was normal. The brakes didn't drag. Always replace the shoes, wheel cylinders, and springs every brake job for security that everything is normal. Bleed the brakes replacing the fluid. While there, replace the master cylinder while the lines are open. Springs stretch and cause drag. A pad depressor pushes the piston in. If you have to use force, it's sticking. They should just slide in easy. Check the drums for the lip which means wear. Same with rotors. Lisle has a stud tool to easily replace studs. It cost $20.00.
"retacting the pads"???... umm, whats "retacting" mean? and "pads" are on front rotor/caliper brakes, rear drum brakes have SHOES! freakin' amateurs! Also, no need to bash shit with hammers there Thor, they do have pullers to pop those studs out much easier! LOL
@@midnightraiin4035 you that weak of a man you gotta use oil? 😂 Y’all are just some haters. He did the job quick and easy. They would’ve did the same shit at a professional shop.
I have all the tools just wanted to show what it takes to do the job if you don't have the tools I did the job for free for a friend and the hardware on 15 year old wheels is all rusted so replace it
