In this video I show you how easy it is to replace ballast fluorescent fixtures with direct drive LED type b bulbs. Hot on one side, neutral on the other.
Thanks, I got messed up trying to color code....really so simple. All of one side black, all of other side white...done! My lights are doing great! Thanks for the simple instructions!!!
I had 5 fixtures wired exactly like this. Thank you so much for the excellent video. This was a piece of cake. Other videos I watched made it look much more difficult than it is.
This is a great video. I have almost identical fixtures and this completely demystified the conversion process. I invested in a box of T8 LED Dual End Power (DEP) bulbs, push connectors and a decent auto-adjusting stripper. This was the first time I did anything like this and it was maybe a 15 minute job per fixture. I don't usually comment on videos, but wanted to say thanks!
Yes, these were non-shunted, but the direct wire LEDs used could use shunted or non-shunted tombstones. It will pick up hot/neutral from either contact. You can always check the brand of type-B direct wire LEDs you are getting to see if it cares. If it does, and you have non-shunted, then you would just have to create jumpers.
I did your exact set up and used GE LED T8 Type B bulbs that are Direct Wire and they are not turning on. Used a KLEIN TOOLS No Contact Voltage tester and it was showing current on both the Hot and Neutral side of the fixture. Any Ideas as to what I'm doing wrong?
A non-contact voltmeter is good as a warning, but it can pick up anything from 1-1000v so you could have a bonding issue, or your sub panel might not have grounds separated from neutrals or... I would want to figure out my circuit, figure out which line is hot, and then wire it up. If you tried to use a Non-contact voltage tester to separate things out you may have missed something since they can't tell you what's actually happening. You can pick up a multimeter from harbor freight for $5 (or a neighbor). Once you determine what lines are hot, then you can decide what to do. I've seen some offices wired so that half a fixture was on one circuit and half on another to build in kind of a dimming feature. First figure out what you have with a multimeter, then wire it with neutral on one side and hot on the other.
If you mean a 3 way switch, then yes. However the hot and neutral are coming in, that's how you'll connect the new lights. There are different ways to wire a 3 way (power in to light, power in to switch, etc.) so just make sure you are following the way it is currently wired.
Nope, type B doesn't care, because the ballast is internal. If it did matter you'd have people accidentally putting the wrong side in and blowing ballasts up since either side uses the same connection/tombstone style.
T-8 direct wire LEDs from GE I believe. T-8s and T-12s use the same sockets so they are interchangeable as far as the length and socket goes, but I'm pretty sure all the direct wire LEDs I find are labeled as T-8s. But in this video I was removing old T-12s and T-8s and replacing them with the direct wire T-8s.
Got me exactly what I needed without extra time filler. 5 minutes watching, 3 minutes wiring and I was done....if you need to see a wire nut being twisted on you probably don't need to be wiring anything...
