Heat the bearing and ring in the future. You can take it off without any problem. This way, you can easily damage or bend the axle. The same for assembly. You heat up the bearing, slide it over the axle without any problems. After cooling, it will tighten on the axle. It's the samor you do with the ring. You don't force these bearings into place.
So on this type of beer and axle, you don’t necessarily have to take the plate off the rear end because it comes right out without any sea clips like other Chevy GM rear ends. Is that correct
NOT the recommended way to remove the bearing! He’s lucky the top of the axle didn’t slip and launch the axle into his face! Use a cutoff wheel to cut most of the way through the retaining ring, then lay a cold chisel parallel to the axle. Couple of hits with the BFH will split the ring.
He’s got it backward! Take it apart with the hammer; reassemble it with the press! And I think I remember that the bearing was sealed on only one side; the seal should be outboard.
For others that may read this. There are 2 types. Early BOP 10 bolt axles like this one(66-69) has the seals inside the tubes and a sealed bearing held on the axle with a wedding ring. Later BOP 10 bolts (71-72) have the seal and open style bearings held into axle by wedding ring.
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