Amazing amazing video step by step very well instructed and you pointed every single thing out. Also subscribed to your channel keep up the good work brother
My confidence level skyrocketed after watching your video. Was dreading the job as it looked like a p.i.t.a. at first look...but actually an easy job! Ran into no bad bolts or issues and completed the water pump replacement in under 2.5 hours. Old pump had a bad gasket at the bottom...Then found that the clutch fan wasn't functioning properly so not pulling in air after warmup...decided to modify fan clutch into a "lock" position to be done with it once and for all. Success! Thanks again for posting!
Back in the 50's my Dad showed me a trick on getting studs (or broken bolts) out of blocks or other parts using two jam nuts: first, spray Liquid Wrench on the thing a few hours before you want to pull the stud. Tap it lightly to set up a vibration and get the liquid going into the old threads - not too much, don't want to mess up the threads, you'll need them. Putting a nut on the stud end can save the threads from being damaged. Go away or do something else. Come back and screw two nuts onto the stud. If the threads are messed up, use a thread chaser or a regular die to clean up the threads. Run both nuts up together near the block, somewhere convenient for you to get a good purchase on them. Use a 6 point box end wrench on the one closest to the block, not a 12, you'll need the strength of the wrench on the nut flats. Tighten the nuts against each other, basically using them as jam nuts. Then carefully back the stud out using the nut closest to the block. If the nuts turn on the stud, then tighten them up against each other some more. Be careful when backing the stud out - feel the thing, to see if it's giving way, which means it'll twist or snap off. If it does, then you'll have to do the drill and tap method, but I've found this works about 90% of the time IF I'm patient enough and let the Liquid Wrench do its job first. The other thing I've done is heat it up gently - not to redness, because that softens the metal. It's not like you're tempering it correctly. Then use the spray cooler from Radio Shack that's used to find bad electronic parts and chips (I.C.s). Lacking that spray cooler, I've used an ice cube. The idea is to cool it off quickly and shrink the bolt or stud enough to spray the Liquid Wrench and get it into the rusted threads. Then I use the two nut trick. I'll try just about anything to avoid drilling, using an "easy out" (ha!) and re-tapping, because usually there's not enough room and you never seem to be able to drill at a good 90 degrees to the face of the work. Easy Outs don't always work. I've snapped a few off in the bolt, then had to work it out and go the next size up. I have often ended up drilling off center into the block threads and obviously that weakens them. With luck, I've gone through the center, almost touching the block threads, and have been able to pick out the thin remains of the bolt, but not often. For the bozo who cross-threaded yours, here's another hint: start the stud or bolt by going backwards until you feel the end of the bolt/stud/screw drop into the threaded hole. THEN you can gently turn it in. If there's ANY resistance at all, you need to back it out and start again until you can turn it in easily. Remember: if it doesn't go in easily, YOU are doing something wrong, and making it harder for the next poor guy who buys your trouble.
You're welcome. P.S. - here I am a year later and watching this again b/c I'm about to do most of this procedure on the one I have "responsibility" for. I ran across fixkick.com a while back (lots of info there), and on Low Range Off Road's site I found a link to discussion on a Miata forum where the problem with the early (90 - 91) short nose & smaller diameter crankshaft caused the key to damage the keyway. Some were put in backwards at the factory (or by someone else later), and the timing chain pulley bolt was too weak. Most replaced the crankshaft or upgraded to a later engine with the longer and larger diameter nose and bigger bolt. One thing they caution against is using an impact socket/air wrench to get it off. Damages the crank's internal threads or something. You can read it here: bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,15988.0.html/ - it's a Loctite and JB Weld fix. Be sure to read the link they provide to the explanation of why this happens by Lance Schall on www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html - that's the main bit of info you want. Thanks for this vid, it's really appreciated.
Thanks for posting...friend has a Sidekick that has a coolant leak from underneath water pump (?) somewhere....cannot see where it's coming from. He wants me to change water pump for him. Wish me luck...😂
@@CantKillMe Wasn't a tough job at all. Your video helped out...especially the idea of pulling my little "Rodak" Air Wrench out from a 40 year sleep and getting it into working order. Essential to get the little 8mm head bolts out of the crank pulley.
If it's been over heating that black yuck inside the cover was probably ideler pulley grease and if you have been replaced the alternator every 6 months you have a extreme electrical problem
Hi dude i have a question for you , i have a bit of an oil leak from the sump coming out from between the block and the engine by the crank sensor. i was thinking of removing all the sump bolts and pulling down the sump so i can use rtv silicon and putting the sump back on is it possible or do you think there wont be enough room, i dont want to pull the engine for an oil leak.
well if you got 4x4 no you can not drop the oil pan. A you have to remove the front pig or B pull the engine out fare enof to get the pan down for me i dont care if it leak or not as long as its not going thow a lot of oil
I have a leak coming from behind the water pump...running down the block...is it possible it is a hose or freeze plug leaking behind the pump..or just the lower part of the water pump gasket leaking...I can see behind the pump to tell...It looks like the back side of the pump is the block, which cant leak.
sometimes the rust out and sometimes the o ring go's call www.lowrangeoffroad.com/ and they can get you all set up they are the ones I go thaw for parts
this is my 3rd geo and I would go get my 4th one if i can find one but see they run when everything is dead they are low repair bill and they keep going
Amigo I have a 1996 geo tracker 16 valves old school style and when come to timing such motor I can said personally people are wrong fallowing the books and video crap my Geo tracker 16 valves it set up in the last set of timing such motor have 4 different timing set and each start in different piston with a combination of different distributor and spark set up like example set piston up on one and distributor on 4 etc my is not a regular Geo tracker he is real fast to a regular Geo tracker when is in real timing is when everything works in one unit tattle response transmission and torque etc it becomes a beast gas mileage better 4x4 on it will lift you up out the sit header free flow exhaust alluminum pulley electric fan filter and a cam he become a animal in mud snow highways believe me big boys spend a lots of money in their jeeps I spend nothing junkyard parts a hammer and a cheap welder and bingo I build a pitbull mix with a boxer jjjj you have to see the big boys faces when I come in with my pitbull mix and with CCR born on the byouuuuuuu song jjj mambo king amigo I call him black mamba seems like everyone want to buy him from me he'll know everything is in the timing and combo is a willy in steroid jj remember amigo the timing
Mine wont start unless fuel is sprayed down intake. I have orange white and brown wire behind left tailight not connected. Was starting fine last week now nothing UGH!
