Calibrated torque wrench to take off... bit of a joke.. On ALKO brakes... always clean and lightly lube the auto reverse mechanism and make sure the cables are free.... ALL THE GEAR AND NO IDEA..
anyone got any advise on a breaker bar upto the task of removing one of these. I do have a 350nm torque wrench but wandered if a breaker bar woud be easier for removal
If this was entitled "How you should NOT service your Alko Brakes" it would be more accurate. The list of things he got wrong is almost as long as the video, the things he didn't do at all would be as long again.
Disappointed! Having precisely torqued the hub nut, he then guns the wheel nuts in. Wrong! What if the owner gets a flat and needs to change the wheel? He/she ain't getting them undone with the typical wheel nut wrench.
Why the misleading title? He does not replace anything (apart from the one-shot hub nut) as there is no need to in this case. He *services* the brake (ie cleans and inspects). I wasted 5 minutes watching, thinking to see how the shoes were replaced. Thumb down, but might as well spend another couple of minutes posting this. Torque wrench to *remove* the hub nut?! Use a scaffold pole on your breaker bar to remove it if necessary. I have a 3/4" drive socket set for big tough nuts like that. I would test the handbrake while the wheel is still in the air. Turn freely with it off (which he did check), and then applying the handbrake one click at a time checking that there is increasing resistance until you cannot turn it by hand any more. Both wheels should feel similar. I don't get the craze for powered wrenches. They save very little time in the scheme of things (unless you are on a factory assembly line or at a tyre change depot) and they are just cumbersome and add another piece of clutter. In most situations they are too big to use anyway, and there is a danger of over-tightening (he mentions cross threading). These days on things I want to dismantle (eg rear light lenses) I keep finding small screws with chewed heads because people are using power screwdrivers and keep them going until either the screw chews up or the driver jumps out and gouges nearby paintwork.
Duke Nukem chewed up screws don't mean a powered screwdriver. It could be a hand screwdriver with the wrong bit! I also wouldn't advice a scaffold tube, (apart from using with scaffold). It contravenes H&S to place any pipe over any spanner, socket bar etc to exert extra leverage. Seen one snap a spindle once and the prick using it broke his jaw.
Depends how they are chewed. By hand, the cross is just distorted a bit, but a power screwdiver leaves a circular pit because it keeps going until it dawns on the user that the screw isn't moving - seen plenty like that. As you say, people frequently use the wrong bit, whether hand or powered. Most people don't even realise there are several different types of cross-heads. I'd have them all banned except Pozidriv. As for the pipe on the spanner, you need to get that nut off somehow, and I'm talking about removing not tightening. Common sense is also required. Some AA & RAC (UK breakdown services) guys I've seen carry scaffold pipes because they have to deal with wheel nuts last done up by power sockets.
