Hello, Great video! Just a tip, next time try to use a threaded rod / bolt with 10.9 or 12.9 grade it will be much stronger and you would be able to press your bushings out without the bolt snapping.
Also have have this "lifehack" from Drive2ru and I must say it's very good, the handling changed to a more stiffer/sharper way. All of the aftermarket replacements are crap, so only two options: 1) Replace with entire OEM arm or 2) go the W124 route. (LEMFORDER 1240101) Edit: but I don't know if it is a good "lifehack" for hydro suspension, but for regular, seems like a good option.
Hi, your videos are helpful. Great job!!! I have successfully done these operations. I just had one problem (or point) with the rear bolt (inner bolt on the rear trailing arm bush). I have a bolt with two different threads that is still secured from the top with a nut. There is not much space to loosen the nut. I think that is specific for 2.2 HDI with Hydroactive suspension. :D Do you plan on replacing the bushings in the upper control arms?
Hi, thanks for your comment. Well, there should be no bolts, maybe somebody has ripped threads of the bushing and solved it by drilling bigger holes and putting bolts... havent seen that before. Regarding the upper control arm, I have not had any problems with those and even now they are fine, so no need to work on those :)
@@rustoil I have a 2009 C5 X7, and it takes the other type of bushing to your car (example shown at 8:35). It has a double-threaded bolt with a nut on top, as mentioned by Jan Susen, for the inner attachment of this bushing. My car is 2.0L HDi with Hydractive 3 suspension. I bought this car 2nd hand, but I don't think that anyone ripped the threads, but rather just an old-fashioned (2008/2009) design. My 2011 C5 X7 has same as your car (bushing picture appears at 8:40). It does NOT have a nut on the top of the inner bushing bolt. I have replaced bushings on both cars with poly bushes. No need to hammer the bushing onto the control arm. I loosely bolt the bushing in place before even trying to reattach the control arm. Easy to slide the arm into the poly bush - maybe some tap tap with a rubber mallet is all that is needed. Easiest if you have three or four hands! Thanks for your videos. Very helpful.
Hello. I dont remember exactly, but definatelly not on highest, because then the suspenssion is under tension, you want it to be loose. Sometimes it need to be on the lowest, main point is to disconnect the battery.
@@rustoilthanks, what I'm afraid of is to lower the suspension to get it loose when I put it on car jack because of the return of hydraulic oil, did you have to open the hydraulic container for breaking the pressure or something?
On my car LDS level is as it should be so I have no wories. If you dont exactly know yours, then just take off the cap. Do you have lexia? Then do the depressurise procedure to make lds level right.
No, they rather not. Mine is 2012 x7 and all crucial body elements are absolutely fine. A bit of corrosion at the front wings (they are made from aluminium) and at the rear wheel arches, mostly because of the rocks. Other than that it's fine and you shouldn't be afraid of to buy one. But because every car have it's own story I would recommend to check it properly. ☝️
Hi, i m planning to buy a 2014 C5 2.2 hdi 200 exlusive and wanted to ask you if you recommand it as a reliable car, it has only 62000 km and well serviced. Thank you
