Best Video by far on this repair " short, sweet & straight down to business!" No Drama & story telling " great INSTRUCTION ! great INSTRUCTOR!" thank you friend!"
Thanks! Fixed an 82 Supra starter, got the contact from the hole-in-the-wall local alternator starter rebuild shop. It's so old school they don't even have a computer at all. One contact was not worn so I only replaced one of the two.
Nice, I already popped it open to see what went wrong, and saw the problem. But it's great to know they are so easy to rebuild. Like soldering in brushes on an alternator, people should do this instead of buying all new every time. It's handy to know
Just did this on my Denso starter and it works perfectly now.I usually bench test it before and after the repair in case its something else. I replaced the plunger because it came with the kit.The most difficult part of the job is to remove the starter from the car and put it back in.Cost of the repair $10
Excellent repair video. Informative, necessary info, enough detail & to the point. I wish all the instructional videos would follow this one as a template on "How to make an Instructional video". You're a gifted instructor!
I have a hard time finding the right size plunger in my country, so I sand it, and thanks God it works for now You help me save a few dollars till the next pay day, I thank you Sir
Thanks for the video. Was going to have a mechanic check it out and get a solid diagnosis before ordering a solenoid repair kit, but I'm kind of on a budget right now and it was too much for me to want to pay for. I'll hope this fixes it. Kit should be here on Monday; hope it fixes it. Car does start, just takes several tries when it's having issues. So I guess it makes contact sometimes and completes the circuit and other times it doesn't. I could pull the starter today and have it tested at autozone, but it may fail just because of the contact point issues. Maybe I'll at least check to see that all the fuses and such are okay, but since it only doesn't happen every time(for about a week it wasn't having issues) I feel like the starter motor is okay. Think I will check for any corrosion/connection issues today since the part doesn't arrive until Monday anyways.
Can get the contacts from a motorcycle parts place too,Fog Hollow I believe.Harley Davidson uses this style contact in their starters too.The contact kit comes with a new plunger most of the time
Great video. Unfortunately, one of the wires inside my starter has broken. It is the one that connects to the black solenoid connector. The connector broke off and separated from the wire inside. Can this just be soldered back? thx.
To be totally honest, I don't know for sure. Here are my theories: both contacts don't make contact with the plunger disc at the exact same time. Therefore, the one that makes contact last will experience arcing, which can cause pitting or wear on the surfaces. Another theory is that as they make contact (and electricity arcs across the connection) a very small amount of material is transferred from one surface to another. Because of the direction of current flow, the positive contact will always wear faster because more material is being transferred away from it. Again, I am not an expert on this, but these are ideas that I have had. The second theory is based on my observation that the positive brushes in a brushed DC motor are usually more worn than the negative brushes.
So, before I start digging parts out of my car to do this I need to make sure my problem is the same. When I turn my key no sound at all. No clicking, nothing. However, it does eventually start. I used to just turn the key back in the off position then on and repeat, releasing the clutch and pressing again. I found out yesterday I don't even have to do that. I can just hold the key for about 5+ seconds and it will eventually start. Is this the same issue?
Did you ever find a fix for this problem? I think my issue is on par with what you are describing too. I've replaced my starter about 3 times already in the last 5 years. I'm thinking my issue may be something else, but it is so intermittent I don't want to throw more $ for parts if that isn't the issue.
Since you mentioned clutch, you should check the clutch safety switch for good contact. Attach a test light or voltmeter to your small wire on the starter (disconnected) then turn the ignition switch to start with clutch pedal pushed in. If every time there is a light or 12V reading, then the solenoid is at fault. If at times there is no light or 12v, then that circuit has to be looked at.
Thank you great video! However i dont know if the problem i hv is the solenoid...the engine sometimes just shuts off while riding, and after sitting like a minute or so and a few trials if lucky enough when pressing start button the engine starts right up..but sometimes doesnt, and no click sound at all. Battery is good fresh, connections are tight...any help?
If the engine shut off while you are driving, the problem is probably not in the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid is only used when starting the engine. You may need to have it diagnosed.
Hey mate i got same problem battery are new but when try to start it, its has nothing at all til i hit the starter motor with a spanner while my wife starting it and work so we drive down the road stop on the traffic light car just die, did you find out the problem? Do Need your help cheers mate
@@kaveituavao2748 I know these comments are old but hopefully it helps someone scrolling by. If your vehicle is stalling while driving then that could be a lot of things. The main thing to look for that are easiest to fix, depending on the car, is vacuum leaks. Just in general for a call to stall it could be alternator not supplying enough electricity, the air to fuel ration being thrown off by a leak or faulty intake components, or a sensor being warn/lazy/failure. An example: In my 1998 Toyota Camry LE, the car would stall if I stopped at a stop sign or sometimes even just idling in the driveway. The fix for me was a lazy engine temperature coolant sensor, which wasn't properly sending the computer the right temp of the coolant and threw off my air to fuel ratio. It only occasionally stalled when the engine was warm. This also never threw a code because the sensor hadn't failed entirely. After replacing the sensor for about $9 I haven't had that issue again. If you're having to hit the starter solenoid to start the car then the starter is definitely going out. But a bad starter would not cause your car to stall. Those issues are separate. Having your car diagnosed by a mechanic can be pricey for no good reason, and I am a firm believer that anyone can learn about their vehicle and service it themselves in this aspect. In some aspects where you may need to replace large components or you've absolutely no possible way of servicing it yourself after giving it some good effort, then take it to a mechanic. We live in the era of infinite information. That also means mis-information. So be careful.
Hey Justin. I did this fix for my 4Runner. Trying to do the same thing for my Toyota Avalon, but it has a different Denso starter. It doesn't have the triangular cover with the three screws for removal. Do you know if all Denso starters can be repaired in a similar way?
No, not all Denso starters have a rebuildable solenoid. If the solenoid cannot be taken apart, then you cannot service it. However, you can purchase a new solenoid separate from the starter motor for only a fraction of the price. Check with your auto parts stores.
Thanks for the reply. This car has one of those gear reduction starters. So I'll try to figure out which part is malfunctioning. Hopefully I can find the fix.
Hello I have a Denso starter that is in a residential back up generator mated to a Ford 2.5l. I’m having a difficult time locating the battery & motor contact terminals and the plunger. Do all Denso starters that have the housing cover that you took off use the same 3 internal contact parts? Mine has the same cover that you took off. Thank you
I think that most Denso starters that have the same solenoid shape use basically the same contacts. There are a couple of variations, but otherwise, they are similar.
Where did you get them for a couple of dollars nearby. If ordered from Hong Kong, the wait is 3-4 wks. If purchased in the US, the seller buys them from Hong Kong, then marks them up 4Xs, and it would take 4-5 days. That's tough-going when the car is needed. Would shimming the contact so its face protruded further forward work?
I buy mine from local businesses that rebuild starter motors and alternators. I live in a fairly rural area, yet there are three of these businesses within a 30 minute drive. Also, try searching "nippondenso solenoid contacts" on Amazon.com. They really aren't that hard to come by.
Thank you for your reply. I checked online for such a shop. Low and behold, there is a company that specializes in starters and alternators not too far from me. Unfortunately, I took the starter out, since there appeared to be voltage to the S-terminal, only to find out the solenoid and motor work fine. Not sure what to do next. The starter relay and ignition switch fuse have continuity. I don't want to pull the ignition cylinder out to check the ignition switch. Ugh.
A lot of starter and solenoid problems are intermittent, and the starter and solenoid will act perfectly fine on the bench. That is why I always confirm the problem before I remove the starter. If you are sure that you had greater than 9 volts at the S terminal and your ground circuit is not dropping any voltage, then i would say the problem is still in the solenoid or starter.
I thought it was an intermittent problem -- don't think so now,. I asked a friend to confirm my suspicion that there was no voltage to the S-terminal or trigger switch. He told me that there was a reading on the multimeter -- that's why I removed the starter. I should have asked him to start the car while I handled the test leads! A mechanic friend of mine brought his test light over and asked me to start the car. He told me there's no juice to the solenoid. He thinks the ignition sleeve or switch (can't remember) needs to be replaced, and suggested I buy a couple of wires and a push button switch to send power to the solenoid. I did that when my old Chrysler minivan was stolen since the thief hacked the cylinder out of the column. I would prefer that suggestion be used temporarily, however.
I wish i knew this when my starter died 6 months ago, then i would have save 100 dollars rather than buying a remanufactured one from advance auto parts. I believe the one from advance is inferior than the OEM one if i replaced the contacts.
Good day, what can cause fuses to blow when I opened this kind of starter and put it back together after I experienced starting only after several attempts?
I don't know what fuses you are talking about, but if it requires multiple attempts for the starter to engage, then you are probably still have solenoid contact issues. Maybe the plunger is worn or corroded? Maybe one of the side contacts is crooked, preventing the plunger from seating evenly?
You'll be glad you watched this if you have a Tacoma. My 2008 had this, replaced the contacts, cleaned and fresh grease too, the starter is built like a tank, heavy duty. Many years later still starting perfectly. Would be a real waste of money and a good starter to replace the whole unit.
Why didnt you replace the contact surface on the plunger or just replace the plunger. Sanding the contact surface only increases the distance between the two surfaces when the solenoid is engaged which is the original problem
Was the new starter you installed a "remanufactured" starter? One way to know is if you had to return your old starter as a "core." If it was remanufactured, a year could be considered a long life! I always buy brand new starters or repair them myself because I don't like dealing with the same problem over and over.
Auto parts stores typically do not stock these parts--they want to sell you a new starter or solenoid! We have a couple of local businesses that rebuild starter motors, alternators and other electric motors. They usually have them in stock. Also, the dealership can often get these, although they are more expensive. If you still can't find them anywhere, Amazon.com has them!