Replacing Sway Bar Links on Volvo S60 

Each brand will be different too. The replacements I have now don't have torx or hex. The nut on the rear was locked up so badly I broke several hex sockets trying to remove them. I had to hammer off the rod part so I could get a pipe wrench on the remaining piece that goes thru the sway bar to remove it. The new ones use 15mm a proper wrench on a 6 side nut to hold the back, so I can never have issues removing it again.

I don't think swap bar links would cause that. Best idea is to get it jacked up on both sides to check, and maybe on a lift. The wandering could be rack and pinion, worn bushings, especially the lower control arm bushings, worn tires, which could be because of an alignment problem, which could also mean inner or outer tie rod ends, or you may eve have bad issues with the subframe bushings. There are too many things to be able to say in e-mail what it is. You really need to get it on a lift to give it a good look at all the parts to see what is worn. If none have been replaced, it could actually be multiple parts worn as well.

Bad tie rods won't always make a sound depending on whether it's the inner or outer end. If you get the front end (both tires) in the air on jacks, take the wheel and try to wiggle it side to side. It shouldn't move with a quick wiggle. If it does, you have a tie rod end wearing. That will cause the car to have a wandering feeling, and will wear out the inner or outer section of the tire tread, or both. All kinds of other things will cause that sound too, ranging from shock or struts or mounts, bad CV joints or plunge joints on the drive shafts, etc. Without getting it in the air and inspecting it properly, it's really hard to tell where a sound is coming from sometimes.

Floyd Nash just had a look and the boot on the bottom of one of the tie rods is split. I'll replace both and have a look around 👍

You need to be able to get both sides in the air at the same time. 2 jacks would work but you should really have jack stands for safety.

For the sake of safety, I always will recommend getting both wheels off the ground. It's easy to do and you know you're always going to be OK. When you get to more aggressive sway bars, the forces can be quite large, and for people that aren't as familiar with cars that are still learning, safety is pretty important. Agree on the Detroit Axle though. The parts have lasted well so far, but some assembly is definitely required! I live in Michigan where we salt the roads, so corrosion that binds things hard like that is very common. For the rear sway bars, they were so bad I had to hammer the cup part of the link off the ball part so I could get something on the ball to grip it. The nut on the other side was corroded in place so bad I had to use a pipe wrench as a hold on the ball part to get the nut to break loose. It sucks living in the midwest sometimes.