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Good explanation. I'm just fixing up an old workzone compressor, which has been loaned to me. I've put a new manifold and unloader on it, built up air to pressure but wouldn't restart and then blew the fuse. I noticed that the air was travelling back to the pistons, so took a look at the check valve, only to find out that nut/ cap had been soldered on and was missing the spring and pastel lol, new one ordered from Amazon, fingers crossed, thanks for the video 👍
Hi. Great vid and is the only one i can find that explains things clearly. I have the same compressor and unfortunately you have said how the unloader valve tube connects at the other end. Does it go in under the main on off unit and if so, how does it connect. Mine has blown off today and im in the middle of something so want to get it sorted asap. Hopefully you'll see this and let me know. thanks in advance.
The tube goes to a pressure switch under the main power switch. It just turns to lock. If you search "Condor EV 1S Unloader Valve for MDR1 Pressure Switch" your see it
Well done for sharing the video. I would like to say that PTFE tape would have been a far better sealing agent on the main thread into the reservoir. You could have put plenty of turns of tape on the thread, & wound it in using a spanner. This would have provided an instant seal, allowing testing straight away. Your explanation of how the valve operated was very good
Thank you for your comment and compliment Clive. You can buy thick PTFE tape I believe so I probably should have looked into that option like you say. After all it’s what plumbers use.
The solenoid ones work much better and seem to be more reliable.You also don't need the bleed off tube to the motor start switch. simply wire in parallel across the motor 240v connections.
hi. Thanks for the reply but unless im missing something it still won't work. The black tube has a very thin washer type thin right arlt the end and the brass collet thing pushes up to it but how does that lock into the housing. If its supposed to be push fit its not working. it just slides in and out. Nothing to turn to lock or unlock the tube, it just spins. freely inside the housing. I could do a short vid and upload it maybe?
The one end is just a tube connector to the tank. The other end does a 1/4 turn or such underneath the power switch and this part has a spring valve in it. I might be able to do a short on it tomorrow afternoon.
Hello! I have encountered a problem with my new NUAIR B3800 230Volt air compressor. I do not know if it is the voltage or the cold weather. The compressor would run from 0-7 bar than stop suddenly and be trying to push again to 10bar but can,t start( termic fuse won t pop up). After a few seconds if i switch from on to off it will maybe start again. Now there s to options he does that again at 9,8 bars or just goes untill 10 and releases the pressure. I do not know if its the air compressor fault or cold weather+ small electric tension( when in use the voltage drops to 207V). Thanks for an eventual answer, have a nice day!
This sounds all too familiar. I was having this until I replaced the one way tank valve from the compressor that feeds the tank. But just like you, as winter came in it has been struggling to run if the tank is holding high pressure and pops the overload trip. If I drain the tank down to half pressure it will cope and run to full pressure. I am at a loss to what this is. In winter the oil will thicken a bit and increase the load on the motor. I wonder if the starting capacitor is still to blame and maybe I should just buy a new genuine capacitor for £30.
@@CoatsandGaiters, i tried to turn on my compressor today and suddenly stopped working, now it won’t start. Called the dealer today, i dont know if i should give it another try or just ask for my money back and look for another brand. But i do not know another compressor to give that cfm( air flow) and running on 230V.
@@spicys1 has the compressor got a short and decent power connection or is it at the end of a long lowish rated cable as you could be loosing voltage on a long run from the main consumer unit.
@@CoatsandGaiters it worked from 0 bar to 5 bar than stopped working. Started with a pitchy sound like a too tight friction. Now it wont do nothing. The voltage of the outlet when compressor is in use is 208 Volt
That check valve will never stay sealed up. You didn't tighten it all the way to the tank. You turned it backwards to meet the tube. You have to replumb to meet the check valve.
Thank you for the comment though originally when it arrived new it was leaking from there and I successfully sealed it using Fernox and that was in 2010. Fernox silicone sealant seems pretty good stuff. This one hasn't leaked and it's been nearly a year now. You can't fully tighten to the tank as the pipes would be out of alignment, hence the sealant.
Hiya mate ,great video ,explanation is quite good, my compressor has the same problem and I replaced the nrv but the problem still exists,I noticed a bit of air leak from the pipe connected to nrv and pressure switch, leak is at the end of pressure switch ,would you say that leak is the problem? I will be grateful for your advice
Also on my other air compressor which I got as non runner ,the motor wouldn't start so I changed the capacitor and it started to work but for only 2 days ,now when I swith it on ,the pump makes a funny noise as its stuck but wouldn't start ,any idea fellow ?
