Thank you for a great instruction video. Very clear and precise. Also thank you for not putting loud music on top. A lot of other videos are unwatchable because of loud music. So very glad you didn't put any music on. Must be cold at your place. I could see your breath cloud coming out.
100 video diversi con tanti sistemi diversi per complicarsi la vita ...e questo signore è stato un grande on semplicità e alla vecchia maniera ...bravissimo !!!
I am sorry i have not spotted this before but you only look for stuff when you need it. But i would point out that the part of this job that is the most of a problem is the front end of the arm with seized bolts. Matt has done this without removing them which i thought was possible but he is the first guy that i have seen do it. So i am very grateful that he has shared this. Many thanks Matt.
Great! i did this last weekend. i was to try something like this, but your video encouraged me. its hard to pull it off but as you said, with pacience we do it. and as reward we save same money. thanks
Good job... matts... going to take the the better halfs out in a week or so and replace... 2009 dodge caliber... I think I'll take the reciprocating saw and cut the top and bottom without going through.. Did that with the rear bushing for the front control arm. Came out fairly easy.... You save a lot of money
Tank you for the video. Very helpful. I figured i would try my impact chisel first. that didnt work. but a 4LB mini sledge did it perfect. about 2 minutes each. I did treat it first with penetrating spray first. that might have helped. I also had the whole trailing arm on the ground because i bought a integra disc brake swap, and it had bad bushings. it was a bit harder because things wanted to move around.
If you found yourself here because you don't want to shell out $140+ for a tool you'll only use once... FOLLOW everything this man does, besides the hammering part. I just finished both bushings on my civic, and after banging for two hours on one side, i finally took a reciprocating saw, cut 4 notches into the metal rim of the bushing, pretty much destroying it but who cares ( my dog bone thing fell off as soon as i unbolted them from the frame lol )... hit it from inside out.. literally took me 10 mins, as oppose to trying to bang it without cutting the notches.
Did you know or do you know now that the bushing is wider on the OUTSIDE (wheel side) part of the bushing? The reason why it took you forever to remove it is, you were forcing the bushing to pass through an opening that was designed to prevent the bushing from what you were trying to do, pass through the other side. You are supposed to whack that bushing from the inside out for removal and outside in when installing...
The special tool designed for this job (rear trailing arm bushing remover/installer) presses it thru the back, just like in this video. Honda factory service manual also shows the same direction, on page 18-25.
Did you know? If you take a hack saw, and cut 2 slices,it will come out easily. Since you DO NOT need the old part... Cut the Top and Bottom until it reaches the to the Arm's Metal. From there, it will come out easily for you! NOTE: My Dad and I just did this.... I will upload a Video soon on how we did it!
Hey man, just wanted to say thank you for giving me the idea of how to replace these. But if you take the whole trailer arm off and beat it from the inside out it comes out in a few hits! I used 3 pieces of 2x4 to set the trailing arm on and a hammer. It popped out in a couple hits!
Thanks for the video, I just successfully hammered out the bushing on my 98 civic. Just as a note for anyone's' who is reaaaallyy stuck in there and rusty (took me 4 hours of hammering, whole center part disintegrated and just the outer ring was stuck) do yourself a favor and go pick up a 2 and 1/2" spline socket from the local parts store for about 15 bucks, it matches up to the size of the outer ring, just hammer it out directly with that and it works great.
Thanks for watching! Just keep at it. As I said in the video it took me over an hour of pounding to get the one side out. Make sure you take long powerful strikes instead of short weaker ones. Really lay into it.
Hey thanks for the video Matt. I did this on a CRV and the biggest problems I worked around were; stuck lower control arm bolt, and rust. I used map gas and PB Blaster to break the rust. The lower control arm on the passengers side remains stuck so I simply twisted things to replace the bushing. However, you may have difficultly bolting the upper control arm back on. Also, be sure not to pull apart your CV axles. And I do not reccommend the Dorman quick press part, unless you get two made of rubber. I received one made from urethane or hard plastic and it could not be pressed in (even with a press). Thanks again.
Also, if your car is lowered, you should rotate the bushing to compensate for the different angle the trailing arm will be sitting at for the majority of its life on the car.
FroztiProductions adjustable control arms are good for setting the camber angle if you wish, but other than that you'd probably only have to maybe worry about the axels depending on how low it is
The camber with the stock arms is just right for my taste, added maybe 5 degrees. Is there other benefits of upgrading the control arms? It's not very low, probably 1-2 inch drop.
Warriors of the Shade Tree mechanics, I toast a beer to all of you.... Ive been a mechanic for over 20- years but am always looking to improve my skills..
I had a little harder taking two out on a Ferrari. ATG suggests for me to PCV Drain Stop with a 1/4 steel plate placed on back of PCV Drain Stop. And with a heavy hammer I was able to knock them out without a scratch on frames. Mine letting us know the torque numbers on all those bolts/nut? This in case I work on one of this model (what year/model of this?). Thank you for sharing us your tips.
I'm always amazed watching these videos on how clean the bottom the of the cars are. I live in northern New England and usually most of the effort in any car repair work here is fighting with rusty bolts; sometimes they even break off (which becomes a huge time-sink to drill them out). Where do you live that is a cold climate (I can see your breath) and you have so little rust on the bottom of your car?
I am in central PA. Our winters here are not so bad. We have our moments, but most of the time it is not crazy. The issue with the weather here is the unpredictability, at least where I live (Happy Valley).
what supported your control arm while you were wolly whomping it with the hammer? Like what stopped it from just flopping back and forth while you were hitting it?
Thanks for the reassurance I could do this without the special tool. I got to the beating part and, after a few thousand whacks decided to get out the sawzall, cut away the rubber inerds and then make a cut through the outside ring of the bushing. This releived the pressure of the seized bushing and, 2 hits later, the bushing was free. Saved me a LOT of time on the other side. Also, had an issue with getting the new bushing to start into the housing, so I took the bushing to the grinder and beveled the leading edge to allow to bushing to start into the housing. Doesn't matter if it's ground a bit because the area ground down is completely through the mating surfaces. Side 1; 4 hours. Side 2; less than 1 hour. Also used the old bushing, held to the new bushing, as a striking plate.
Even with the xtractor tool, it took me about 10-15 mins of ratcheting to press out the bushings. then i broke my friggin special tool! plan on spending a few hours doing this job
The same with all the other bolts that he retightened with an impact. At least for 1988-1991, the trailing arm bushing bolts are 69ft-lb, the lower control arm bolt is 40ft-lb, and the upper control arm bolts are 29ft-lb. There is MO WAY to control torque anywhere close to this precisely with an impact. And an inpact could damage the threads (particularly the 10mm bolts that cannot take as much torque). Impacts should only be used for loosening/removing fasteners.
hello bro, first of all sorry about my english, if a say something whrong because im brazilian. So, I also changed my trailing arm bushings like you, but it didn't fixed well, I mean, the bushings got in with low pressure, like in your video, so then wuen I drive the car, this trailing arm starts to move on the bushing lateraly on the bushing sometimes, did it happend to you? if yes, how did you solved that? I temporarily made a "point" of welding to hug in in place, but didn't like that solution. Thanks, and nice video !
Getting them out with a few blows with a heavy hammer was not so bad, but the new one refuses to go in. I may have to resort to at least renting the tool. Any suggestions?
I just tried to do this, but when you jammed the wood behind the trailing arm and smacked it with a hammer, my trailing arm didn't come down at all. This leaves me with no space to work on it... any help?
Pretty sure they are meant to be hit out from the inside. They have a slight taper to them which makes it really tough to remove it the way you did in the video :)
@@austin4046 haha yeah I commented oh a few vids. You hit from the inside to the outside when removing. And press/hit the new ones from the outside to the inside when installing
looks like you need to replace that wheel bearing too. nice job on other parts, torque wrench might be better tho, less chance of stripping out threads
I'm just gonna suck it up and buy the OEM bushings since there seems to be too much variation in the diameter of the metal sleeve on aftermarket bushings. Not to mention I know the upgraded OEM bushings will last a good long time....something I'm not sure about with the cheaper aftermarket alternatives. My V is 17 years old at this point so I don't expect to do this job again if I use quality bushings in the first place. If I can't get the old ones out fairly quickly by pounding on them with my 4 lb mini-sledgehammer then I'm gonna whip out my reciprocating saw and carefully cut the metal sleeve in several places to aid when I pound on them. Is this a viable idea?
If you are planning to remove these without a press then I suggest you remove from the rear of the arm. 2 or 3 whacks of a hammer gets them out. Trying to do from the front isn't for the alley cat method.
True but at the expense of a rougher ride. I was thinking about going that route but decided against it after reading complaints about the significantly stiffer ride. I knew one guy on Bing's now-defunct honda.suv site who was so dis-satisfied with the polyurethane bushings that he ripped them out and went back to traditional rubber.
I have a 1997 honda civic HX, Would a bad trailing arm bushing cause my rear wheel to wobbly when driving? I just put on a new hub assembly and it still dose it i was even thinking the rim was bent but it was not that. So what could it be?
A bad trailing arm is not likely to cause wheel to wobble. How do you know the wheel isn't bent? Jack the car up in the air and spin the wheel while looking at it from the front of the tire. If it seems wobble periodically then its bent. While the wheel is in the air, take your hands and try to see if there is any play in the wheel. To do this, put your hands at opposite ends of the tire and wobble back and fourth. If there is play, look to see where it is coming from.
put a other tire on it and it was doing the same thing i did jack it up but there is no play, im lost for words. just going to take it in and see what it could be and then fix it myself i hope.
@@juansolo1617 well as you can see on this trailing arm is tapered. So obviously hitting it through the outside opening that is larger is going to be easier. Its really just common sense.
i think he means you should of beat on the other side and pushed the bushing out since these bushings are tapered you pushed the larger part thru the hole instead of the opposite which may of been alot easier and you probably wouldn't of had to beat it as hard or as long really i'm gonna be doing mine soon and beating them with a hammer since it "works" and i don't see paying $130 for a special tool for a one time use and i will beat it in the opposite direction you used see if that is easier i'll let you know if you'd like 1999 integra LS btw doing a camber kit at the same time ...hope this helps
@@G13BBPower Yup, I mentioned doing it that way(cutting away the rubber part of the bushing and then carefully make two cuts through the metal sleeve and then simply pound it out...voila!) several years ago on this vid when I went by the the screenname "ForeignerPhan". I never did get around to doing this job at the time but I can't wait any longer as one side is totally shot on my '98 CRV and making noise when going over bumps. Gonna do it when I replace the rear struts and stabilizer bar end links. The Schley tool is ridiculously expensive for something most people will hardly need.
Hi put new struts back still do noise and when driving like 40 to 50 do crazy noise back put like 60 up the noise got oway any body got that problem be f can let me know what can be it 2 struck are new do real vibration got like 40 to 50 put mired gas like 60 up it got oway to thank s be much good. jod
I just did my driver side today, unbolt everything he unbolted but don’t sit there like an idiot hammering for hours.. what I did was; get a sawzall cut a hole in the outer piece of the bushing, that way the tension is significantly less, get under the car and hammer it outwards, it took me 3 hammer strikes and it flew out, then just go ahead and follow what he did with putting the new one in
djrmonix As much as people like to say they might be tapered, I honestly believe they are NOT. I never payed attention when I was doing it, but if it was tapered It wouldn't have been able to go in and out in the same direction as you say.
MattsMotorz cool no probs will be doing them soon. Amu advice on compliance bushing bolts? I hear they can break off the captive nuts when loosening them and you have to cut into firewall etc!! The car is a 1996 Integra R so is near 20 years old and I reckon the bolts wont come out easy.
Thru bolts on bushings can be a major pain in the ass sometimes. It all depends on the car to what the particular solution would be to get it out. However after you DO get it out, you should always put anti-seize on the bolt so it doesn't get stuck for the next guy!
To save yourself an hour of pounding, grab your sawzall and cut out the center mount of the bushing, then with a metal cutting blade, cut the sleeve of the bushing in two places and it'll just fall out. Wish I had done the above before I pounded for an hour and got almost nowhere. Now... how do I get the new one in? it's also stuck :(
The second one came out in 10 seconds lol. The new one you should be able to hammer it in easily. For me, they went in a LOT easier than they came out. Also, one of the reasons I hammered for so long is I didn't realize it is better to use long powerful strikes rather than faster weaker ones.
MattsMotorz After some good solid mushrooming of the new bushing, It is DONE. Philosophical question: if you mash down the surface of the bushing that is intended to be flush with the arm, is it truly flush?
That's what I plan to do when I tackle this job soon on my '98 CRV...cut the steel sleeve and then punch it out. I'm not taking any chances with aftermarket bushings for this job since there seems to be too much variation in the metal sleeve with the Dorman bushings...Honda OEM for me all the way for this job.
I know many years ago people were removing smaller rubber bushings by burning them with fire. Perhaps this method would work on this one also. I dont know
lol, tryed hammering the ones on my car , and they keps falling off, i ended up using 2, 4 inch C-clamps to start it up till aout 25 pct, after that , just hammer till its flush
Sometimes you need to cheat and grind down the end of the metal sleeve a little bit with an angle grinder to get it started. EricTheCarGuy had to do it to get his RTA bushings started and he was using Schley's over-priced tool.
This would work great if you live anywhere down south with no snow. I live up north and this doesn't work. I have to remove the trailing arm and hammer the shit outta of it 😂😂😂😂
Issues I have with the video. One, 0 mention of bolt torque specs. Also, that lower arm bolt should not have been fully tightened until the full weight of the car was back on it so the collar in the middle can get pinched at the right angle.Good points: mentioned watching out for stress on brake lines and the wood block behind the trailing arm.
+John Bodnar its a suspension component. Torque = tight as you can get it. it's not a head job or something. i know you're probably fresh from tech school or whatever but most of that shit don't matter
Haha. Assumptions. Been working on cars since mid 90s. Any bolt can be over tightened causing damage. I go by manufacture procedure. But also research online for known issues doing a job for a given car.
Honestly, RobAlpacaflip is correct. Torque specs don't mean much except on certain jobs like a head job or things of that nature. Suspension components are the perfect example of "tighten it until it is good and tight." The reason for this is because for suspension you are bolting into either cast iron or steel. Both materials are very strong and can withstand a large amount of torque, so you don't need to be as careful. Sure you can over do it, but man if you're over doing it with suspension bolts then you really don't know what you're doing. No disrespect towards you John, but a general trend I have noticed with people who don't work on cars regularly is they obsess over torque specs. In all honestly, for most jobs, it doesn't make a difference.
+MattsMotorz The damage would most likely be to the threads of the bolts and nuts if over tightened. I see such damage all the time on lug nuts and studs that call for almost twice the torque of these suspension components. For videos for noobs, that have not "calibrated" their torquing elbow having a real number makes it better for them. The second issue has been completely ignored in replies though, that being that with Honda OEM bushing the car should be at rest on a level surface with weight on the wheels before tightening/torquing the suspension bolts/nuts. This is because Honda, and OEM replacement, bushings have the inner and outer sleeves bound to the bushings. Only if using aftermarket bushings that are not bound to the sleeves (like Energy Suspension) is having weight on the wheels is not important.
Javier Camacho I doubt they will have it. Also I tried my impact chisel on it and it didn't help much. You want slow powerful swings with a heavy hammer.
Javier Camacho watch the vid "How to remove a Acura or Honda Trailing arm bushing" that video is the one with the guy with a blue handle hammer. if you do it that way it is easy and you don't need the tool, if you do it this way then it is harder. The bushing is only meant to come out 1 direction from the back to front and if you look at that rusted bushing in the video you will see if that one comes out that easy all of them will come out easy...if you do it back to front.
I really do not think it matters which way the bushing comes out. The bushing was not tapered in any way, and if it was, it wouldn't be able to come out at all.
when they are really stuck and the bushing is tore up I used sawzall. 2 cuts and it comes out, just need to be careful not to cut into the arm and more importantly watch the ebrake cables hahahaha. but instead of hammering forever I only had to hit it a few times.
You video camera is too close to the object, making it near impossible for the viewer to determine the location of the bolts. Thanks for the video though.
Oh thats true its not supposed to come out that way. Thats is incorrect. Its supposed to come out the side facing the outside of the car. The inside of the trailing arm is tapered to prevent it from go thru.
“Stripped out” is better yet. Particularly in the case of the 10mm upper control arm bolts that are spec’d at 29ft-lb, but have just been tightened to who knows how many gazillion ft-lb with an impact.
Trust me everyone. Take the trailing arm completely off of the car, and just whack it out, takes 3 mins this way. Putting them back in is harder but just sand the inside and be patient
![Replacing Trailing Arm Bushings on a Honda [No Special Tool!]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
