Repotting Bonsai Trees 

I second that!

Yes, I feel the joy.

I have a crab apple tree that didn't do well over the winter. Got it from a nursery up North. I was about to write it off as dead when it produced a single bud. Now it has two buds. I still wasn't impressed with how the nursery sent me a plant with no branches and no sign of life but I have some small faith now that it's actually live.

@@Stettafire fingers crossed the stored energy in the tree is enough to generate enough leaves to allow it to survive and thrive. Avoid it getting burned by strong sunlight (and damaging any leaves it puts out) but keep it in a well lit area to recuperate. Good luck 🤞 It is always a good idea to put any suspected dead trees aside in a shaded spot until perhaps the end of May - sometimes an otherwise “dead” tree may recover.

Midnite, last year my Kiyohime (similar shape but bigger than this one) lost one major branch taking 3/4 of the finer branches and top with it. I have taken the dead branch back to the trunk and the branches left have leafed out this spring. I will have to think of a reshape but it will never get back to its former glory :(

Lol

@@TheBonsaiGarden 9

I'm guessing that the idea is to force the water through the soil so it has time to absorb it evenly rather than only having some of the water get into the soil and the rest running off to the sides. Probably not necessary, but with well-draining soil it at least shouldn't do any harm.

@@1BergerVongSchlauigkeitHer I'd worry that it is just a bandaid for people who water too much. If the soil isn't accepting the water then letting the water sit will just get rid of the air in the soil and make it harder for the roots to breathe. I feel like a lot of folk overwater. I see the idea and where it's coming from, but I don't feel it's a good practice

@@Stettafire On the other hand it would also help with not watering enough so the dry soil on top has time to loosen up and let water through, but I'm totally with you, it's a band-aid for a problem that should be addressed surgically.

Both of the trees with the do-it-yourself raised rims had circling roots, one with masses of fine roots almost like a belt, and the other with a thick circling root. I wonder if it was because water just ran down the top of the plants, and collected at the rim before seeping down around the edges, meaning the edges were getting the most water.

I'm sure you see some interesting tiling too. I've seen some shockers. My bathroom has plastic tiles that aren't even on straight. Then they put these giant dolphin tiles above them with a "tasteful" beaded wood trim 🤢

@@Stettafire horrible. I did a bathroom with a big 3d sperm whale blowing mist in the air on the back wall behind the clawfoot tub. Insane!

I'll try to answer both questions. There are very different styles of bonsai, similar to paintings. For the strictly Japanese styles, the rule regarding the pot is: no deeper than the trunk is thick and no wider than the tree is high. The rule only works under optimal climatic conditions, which is why a deeper pot is traditionally often used in China and Southeast Asia. In Europe and other western countries there are two opinions and various attempts to find compromises, some follow the Japanese rules almost slavishly, others see the optimal and simple care of the trees, taking the climate into account, as more important than the given style rules . The same applies to the trees and not just the pots, you can follow the rules but in the end you have to decide for yourself what you like and works best. Regarding your question about how to turn a large mugo into a bonsai, he will probably try to promote new buds closer to the inside of the tree by pruning and at the same time work a lot with dead wood. And here again, there is no set size for a bonsai. So it could be that it retains the entire height and only the shape is slightly improved. But it can also be that the tree is cut back to 50cm and has a very dramatic design with a lot of dead wood.

Thank you again sir…

Can you please email me as I wish to update you.

@@peterchan3100 Done!

IKR?!

I think you need to judge it by the soil. If the soil is wet, I don't think you need to water. If the soil is dry then I think watering is a good idea. Directly after repotting you should always water.

Thank you for that, that's really helpful it it's right it's down to the soil I use too

Tbh I've got this werid thing where I feel like if I let the trees dry alittle bit I'm doing something Worng I no I'm not and no the soil still holds what and they don't need water everyday but I see the soil drying alittle and go water but that's all worng right should make sure the hold soil is alittle dry before not just the top as the top drys alot faster then the rest of the soil my two junipers tree's are now under stress and I don't what to do besides leave them to dry then I can try to save them alot in abit a overthinking moment when it comes to water or not if you get that 😅

@@pokemonmagic. junipers dont need much water. Be strict with them. Water when they are dry but not dryed out. The problem you have is that junipers show after 3-4 weeks that they are suffering. That means you are doing something wrong for weeks. If you change your routine keep in mind that the condition of your tree might get worse but you are doing the right things. It will need time to get better. Dont water junipers to much they need air on their roots and will start to rott.

Oh thank you so much for that, that everything I needed to hear about watering my Junipers I need to treat them 100% different to the other trees I've got I did think I was doing something really worng with the water as I thought why are water when comfier are 100% different tree's they should have different needs even down to the energy is backwards they store it in their needle's so their that why they don't drop them and not in the root's in winter like I understand now that they do not need much water so thankful for that and your help I very much appreciate it now I just hope they do okay and I can save them

From what I've seen you up pot when the tree is in development or the tree has developed and your moving it to a permanent option. You keep it in the same pot when you are refining the tree. A bonsai pot is really only meant to be used when the tree has already been developed but many people are very eager for that instant bonsai.

John Innes No. x. It is a brand name soil mix best known in UK horticulture for their mixes containing loam.

Yes, I do the same

It depends greatly on the road, on the interstate where there is plenty of space to pass going 85 is more dangerous than driving 65. On a 2 lane highway where the speeds are still high but passing is significantly more dangerous it is only safer to go faster than the speed limit if traffic generally travels faster than the speed limit(traffic doesn't always travel faster than the speed limit). Higher speeds inherently make the vehicle harder to control, and accidents at higher speeds are more deadly so you need to be pretty far from the normal speed of traffic for going slower to become more dangerous.