Resin Casting using a 2 Part Mould with Oyumaru & Siligum

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I used Oyumaru for the first time to make a 2 part mould and didnt get the results I expected. If at first you dont succeed then try and try again then finally give up and use Siligum.
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*Disclaimer - I do not condone or endorse copying parts for financial gain or to replicate in full a figure/vehicle. I am purely demonstrating how a one part mould is made and any parts produced will be modified/cut for use in future scratch builds/dioramas.
Also included in this video warhammer 40k,warhammer 40000,games workshop,citadel miniatures,citadel paints,warhammer 40 painting,fantasy diorama,how i painted,warhammer40k kitbashing,40k scratch build,mould making,casting parts,2 part mould,liquid plastic,oyumaru,how to cast figures,two part mould making,5 easy steps,to mould making,Making Warhammer 40k Parts,Mould Making & Casting,siligum mould making,Watch how I make,5 easy steps to making moulds, oyumaru mould making

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19 июл 2020

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Комментарии : 133

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Become a Patreon member to get exclusive access to all the behind the scenes videos and photos of my projects as well as seeing my current projects before they go on RU-vid. - www.patreon.com/miniaturehobbyist?fan_landing=true

@alexgrimm354 3 года назад

Hi, where are your other tutorials? Theyre Not longer online.

@MithrilRoshi 4 года назад

Oyumaru is amazzzzing. I suggest anyone use it if you are starting out. Sadly this was not done right.

@MrAirpumpkin 4 года назад

With oyumaru there is a trick to it to get detail. First and foremost use a mold box and apply pressure when putting on the second half of the mold if its anything more detailed than a space marines bum. THEN after you've made the second half of your mold take the first half off, melt it down, and recast it, again in the mold box and under pressure/clamps (you can apply better pressure now with the second half of the mold to push against) then repeat this alternating one side at a time between the two parts of the mold. This will give you bit by bit a progressively snugger fit and better detail the more times you do this (make sure you're reboiling your water each time you melt it down). some other minor details 1. fresh boiling water is a must, and I've heard of others using heat guns to make sure its just as soft as humanly possible but I use the boiling water cause its benign enough to use in an apartment 2. some folks chill one half of the mold before making the second half so the heat of the second half has no chance of deforming the first. This might also let it hold up to some liquid resins (the slower the cure time the better, fast resins get hot) 3. the pressure/moldbox bit also applies to using epoxy clays and putties like milliput or greenstuff they need to be cured under pressure, and if the mold has no vent to squeeze out the excess like playdouh then you need to be using a scale to make sure you're not overfilling the mold.

@MrAirpumpkin 4 года назад

@@foudroyant504 that works to for the mold making part but the more pressure you can get away with means the more detail you'll pull out after packing the mold with putty. A lego moldbox lets you be more firm without distorting the mold.

@ausaskar 4 года назад

I had to make some replacement parts a few months back with oyumaru and barely got an acceptable finish. I wish I'd found this post before, adding a vent hole and applying a shitload of pressure sounds like obvious advice but I am a complete moulding amateur and these simple things didn't even occur to me. Thanks mate, I still have my oyumaru so I will keep all these things in mind and approach my next attempt with a bit more confidence.

@UKscalemodeller 2 года назад

This

@JayJapanB 4 года назад

Oyumaru works great. You've maybe got too big a piece of it. You really need to use it quickly while it's hot. In small amounts. Upside is it hardens instantly in cold water. I've got detail down to tiny leftover scraper blade marks that were left on the master I was casting. From here on out, if a cast is bad, it's my fault. Haven't had any issues with reusability either.

@brennonwiddis7495 4 года назад

Now that I read the cold water thing its obvious

@camy252camy3 4 года назад

Heat is the key. I keep my boiled water topped up (temperature wise) on the hob in a pan. Isn't brought to boil but hot enough to get the oyumaru nice and soft. I also use a lego frame/press.

@gohtecksiong2118 3 года назад

Oyumaru become hard and lost its ability very fast once it is out from hot water. Make sure you work fast.

@MechaEmperor7000 3 года назад

The temperature really is the thing that makes or breaks a cast. After a while I realized my fingers were cooling down the material too fast, I ended up using some stainless steel butter knives as my tools to shape it around the model. You leave it in the same water used to warm up the mold and moosh with that. Just make sure you don't accidentally burn yourself (the knife is basically at water boiling point).

@UKscalemodeller 2 года назад

I fridge it as soon as the part is in. I find using a Lego frame means you can use a lot more force when making the mold too.

@EmptyGlass99 4 года назад

Good to see the failures as well as the more successful methods and the pace of the video is just right.

@tensei_alter 4 года назад

Two part with the oyumaru type plastic is a little more involved than that; The first half of the mold you make is essentially a throwaway piece, so after making the second half, you redo the first one against the second one with the piece you're replicating lodged in it. Also, you'll get much better luck out of casting plastic pieces, rather than resin, since resin can soften/lose form when it's in contact with the heated plastic. Styrene has a higher glass transition, so it will retain shape well.

@user-nt4wc8mb5b 3 года назад

Thank you! I’ve had pretty good results with my oyumaru, but I’ve mainly had issues with alignment, even with putting the little plug holes. Your suggestion to remake the first piece I think is brilliant and would ensure a better cast. One trick I use is I rub a little bit of rubbing alcohol on my fingers (and I mean infinitesimally small) before getting the plumbers putty or whatever epoxy putty I’m using in the mold. The alcohol seems thin the putty so it gets in all the nooks and crannies with ease (overstuffing the mold had been a problem for me early on). The addition of alcohol acts as a retarder, so it will take longer to cure.

@timcleveland154 3 года назад

I never thought about recasting the first half. Obvious in retrospect, thank you for pointing that out

@cesarleiva2245 4 года назад

I have used Instantmould (same as Orumayu and blue stuff), for reproducing parts with a lot a detail, problem is that you can’t press it using only your hands, because there is not enough pressure to make the mold plastic to really go into de details, try using the exact same method you used with the siligum, but instead of pressing with your fingers, use a plunger made also with Legos, and really apply a lot of pressure in an even manner onto the entire part. Once you have made this, then repeat the process with the other side, this way you make sure that both sides of the mold were formed using pressure. It also worth mentioning that miliput would be the best material for the cast. My main use is to make spare parts for models in really bad shape that can be found on ebay or by personal contacts, thus making a complete and restored 40k vehicle (tanks mostly), that otherwise could only be used as scenery. It’s much more work than making a new model out of the box, but that is just part of the fun.

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Cheers for the info, I think I was a bit optimistic trying to make a mould of several body parts at once for my first time using it and should of experimented with a more basic part. I only used it as Im waiting for silicone rubber to arrive which is what I have used before with excellent results. Thats cool about making tanks from parts and yes the fun definitely is in the making of things from other things =)

@cesarleiva2245 4 года назад

@@MiniatureHobbyist =) I dont make the entire tank, only the missing and broken pieces that are common with very old and neglected models, that most likely are rather sold for scrap of given away instead of throwing them into the bin. Making parts like hatch doors, treads, stowage boxes, ventilation intakes, tow hooks, structural panels and all manner of small bits to complete the original look of those old models. In a couple of opportunities ive had a good smile when during a game, my opponent realices that the new tank on my side of the table that is causing trouble, was his old model. =)

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

@@cesarleiva2245 Ahh the tank repair guy =), that funny about using your opponents old tank in a game. Now Im getting into building dioramas Im not throwing anything away as I love scratch building as much as kit bashing, this is such a gret hobby and very rewarding =)

@khainestar 4 года назад

The blue stuff you can get from www.greenstuffworld.com/en/26-reusable-blue-stuff is pretty re-useable, and one trick I have found, leave it in the water a bit longer than normal and it seems to go more runny and then pools more. So if you use it like you would for plastacine, you know make an enclosure for it, then poor it in and just sit the model part on top. Also found the slow version of this www.dwrplastics.com/slow-version-15-minute-pot-life.html doesn't get as hot as others seem to, so doesn't deform the mould as much, if at all.

@Axquirix 4 года назад

Will be giving this a try; have a head that you get one of per vehicle that I want to clone to convert a 20-man unit (stormvermin into skryre acolytes, need the doomwheel gas mask heads)

@camy252camy3 4 года назад

I've had good results so far by making sure the water is constantly hot by using a pan on the hob. Keep it just shy of boiling point and the oyumaru becomes extremely soft and it will take detail really well. I then use the lego frame/press technique to really get those two parts squished together. Also concur with others here suggesting putting in small indents or objects to act as a slotting guide for future uses.

@damonatherstone9195 3 года назад

The trick with oyumaru is to put it in what I'll call "mould walls" (essentially build a container like you did for the siligum) then apply huge amounts of pressure to the mould when you're making it

@JaysonAkersAZ 4 года назад

love the different approaches - glad you included the fails and missed attempts, great to see the effectiveness of each approach as you worked through them

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Thankyou, I will be trying again soon as I've been told the water needs to be hotter, so will try it in a pan on the stove 🙂

@MatthewBester 4 года назад

I've been using Bluestuff, same as your Oyumaru and milliput mixed with greenstuff. You get the detail of greenstuff with the strength of milliput. The ratio does depends but useally GS/MP 1/4, maybe 1/3.

@stillunsure7630 3 года назад

Will need to give those a try.

@MadMiko21 4 года назад

Dude I really like the Lego usage for the mold building what a FANTASTIC IDEA!!

@keithtam8859 3 года назад

thanks for the demonstrated experiments!!

@Fnordathoth 4 года назад

I've used Oyumaru successfully several times, you have to use smaller amounts at ome time and keep it extremely warm. After you've made the first half of the mold make sure it has completely cooled down before pressing the second half on otherwise you will distort the mold.

@DiegoPerez-ot5jl 3 года назад

Hi. I've been using oyumaru with standard milliputt for the last months and I get pretty good results. Maybe it's the oyumaru brand. I use another one. It also depends on the piece you want to duplicate, but I've had no problems at all with pieces like the ones you used. It catches all the fine details and I have reused it with no problems.

@williamlancaster352 4 года назад

Yeah Ive used the reusable mould before and had results similar to yours. I think liquid silicon moulds are still king. The semi soft/putty moulds just get into that fine detail.

@MrBurningrubber 3 года назад

I've been using the oyumaru and I've had some really good results with it I recommend that you use it in allot smaller portions. And ony do one torso at a time. Use allot thinner sections of oyumaru so the heat can get into it easier. I've just cast some chaos space marine torsos weapons and legs.

@gualtrapasexy 3 года назад

Hi there, great video. The first time i bought Blue Stuff, i waste a whole pack of milliput to cast two decent copies of a LOTR Galadhrim elves. Actually, i have being trying to make a bigger mould with six miniatures in a round solid structure, to make moulds, and i got some news. None of them worked perfectly, due to the next problem. Imagine a pizza. Now, slice it into six parts. Each one of the slices, was one of my miniatures. When i put them under the presure, for the first half of the mould, everything goes great. The details, thanks to the solid structure of the mould, reveal themselves quite good. But there was the problem of the base of the structure. There is some weird balance to find, between how deep can you go into the mould pushing your miniature without breaking the base of it (leaks of green stuff or miliput) and the upper mould, going so deep that it´s quite hard to dismould the upper part without breaking it and getting al the good details. I think some "thick, but thin" base for the moulds, it´s a solution. Don´t really know why, the second half of the mould, always goes silly and without detail. That´s because i only make presure with my fingers. And i´m talking of the mould yet, not the reproductions. The moulds also need the finger pressure, and some heavy load over it for twentie minutes at least. I´m gonna try to make once again some good moulds, but figure by figure. I think i was too ambicious trying to have a circular mould of six figures to cast 36 miniatures in 24 hours (you know, at least 4 hours minimum to see results in miliput. PS: Great results come from putting your own weight canalised through your fists to the upper part of the mould. Hope this waterfall of thoughts in my terrible english turns usefull for someone out there!

@TheOnlyRealWolf 3 года назад

Bluestuff (from green stuff world) is similar to the first product you tried. It works well but might I suggest the following: Using as little bluestuff as possible. Not to sure why but me thinner molds typically turn out better. Get in there with a toothpick/ sculpting tool to really get into ever nook and cranny When using milliput as a filler I have found that placing weight on the mold gets better results. I hope this helps!

@UKscalemodeller 2 года назад

Interesting, as my experience with oymuru is very different, good quality and detail each time I've reused it

@echodelta2426 4 года назад

Excellent review video. Thanks for sharing this and the previous mold making video. I've thought about casting partial miniature bits to make casualty markers. Hadn't heard of Oyumaru before, but reminds me of "Friendly Plastics" from years ago. Looks like it's better to use as a sculpting medium of sorts. What is the brand of liquid plastic that you use? It looks like it works very well as long as the mold holds its shape.

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Thank you, first time using Oyumaru and probably the last lol, I only used it as Im waiting for silicone rubber to arrive which is what I have used before with excellent results. The 2 part liquid plastic is from Amazon - Polycraft FC100 Fast Cast Paintable Polyurethane Liquid Plastic Casting Resin System - 2kg Kit

@commandermcnash5137 3 года назад

Ok, so, from what I have seen in your video an the others is that oyumaru actually works quite well as long as the thing you are trying to cast doesn't have so much detail, the other youtubers used for the most part tyranid warriors and termagaunts, and mostly the thoraxes, and carapaces, in general tyranid troops don't have that much detail outside their weaponry, on the other hand you chose a comparatively complex model in the form of a freebooter ork, with some rather detailed bits, while you still managed to cast something which could be passable if you don't look too close it's clear the oyumaru has its limits So, in conclussion: Use Oyumaru to cast comparatively simple parts and then sculpt extra details or use spare bits to complement, in the best possible scenario this will allow you to double the amount of minis you get from each box while saving you lots of time from trying to sculpt from zero (thanks zoanthropes bodies in my venomthrope box)

@pablocamargo8744 4 года назад

I don't need GW anymore. 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌

@scottlidstone1902 4 года назад

Pablo Camargo The Inquisition would like to know your location...

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

We will always need GW, to get those new parts =)

@pablocamargo8744 4 года назад

@@scottlidstone1902 😅😅

@257shinigami 4 года назад

You sir have my sub!

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Thank you so much =)

@jayward8943 4 года назад

I also had issues getting oyumaru to work for 2 part molds. I didn't have the issue with it degrading detail over multiple uses though. I've used it to great effect to clone one side of a part when I want to use it for basing material, like a crashed tau drone or a random arm.

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

@Eman-qv4kv 4 года назад

for liquid resins ive seen others use pipettes to get the liquid into hard to reach areas and fill fully

@baraki808 Год назад

Simple trick with this. You don't need to slice it open. Make sure 1 part of the mold is cured and then simply dab it with cold water before you add the half of the mold. It will prevent them from sticking to each other. The best method of use I have for this is UV resin casting.

@samaeldrakul4191 3 года назад

awesome stuff, ive not yet dabbled in liquid plastic or resin but i have cast for myself in white metal, which was messy potentially toxic but satisfying. i found a light brushing of talken powder in the moulds would break the surface tension on the liquid metal leading to a sharper cast. dunno if thatd work with liquid plastic but you could give it a try ^^ also cutting air chanels into a mold for air to escape either side of the pour site helps on complex molds (failing that insert old sprew into the mold before its set touching the part youre casting lightly so as not to destroy the part when trimming it from the cast and leading away and up to the pour site for air to escape). its all good fun ^_^ keep up the awesome work 🤘🏻🍻

@IshanDeston 4 года назад

You are not applying enough force with your hands for the Oyumaru, if you want fine details. You will need to make a rigid mold and then use a clamp to really tighten up on it. And you repeat that process with the milliput, but make sure to have some vent hole in your mold, so excess miliput can escape into those vents as you tighten the "vice" on it. Otherwise the excess miliput will deform your mold. And if you still have issues getting fine detail, make some miliput cement and put that into the mold first so it can fill the details.

@andrewpackham8236 4 года назад

Oyumaru is ususally best for one part moulds. You just really have to smoosh it into the details quickly as soon as it's out the water

@philipisbest 4 года назад

Something that can be quite useful for 2 part molds is to push some marbles or similar sized shape into the first half of the mold to create holes, and then when you pour the second half of the mold into place it will enter those holes, making it much easier to make sure your molds are perfectly aligned before pouring in resin. Bit of a bummer that the oyumaru didn't work, a reusable mold like that would be very handy.

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Hiya, yeah I think I left the bit out where I used a tool with balls on the end to make the indentations. I only used it as Im waiting for silicone rubber to arrive which is what I have used before with excellent results =)

@Del_S 4 года назад

From my experience with it, using poundland epoxy (no, really) it can work quite well, but it's perhaps not ideal for large amounts at once or very large items. -Ideally have it in boiling water (not just hot water) for a few minutes to make sure the oyu is as soft as possible. It won't burn you if you're not too hasty after fishing it out but asbestos fingers may help. A coloured variant of the oyumaru may be preferable for seeing the details easier to see if the mould will be satisfactory -Press the parts in deep, almost fully submerged, and use a paperclip to try and guide it around any gaps and edges gently. The paperclip can also be used to poke other little gaps and recesses to make separation easier as it'll maybe stick together quite firm if it's flat surfaces this way -Let the lower half cool off, or run it under the cold tap. -Press the other side onto the cooled lower half firmly, pressing it around the parts to catch details. -Let that cool off, ideally naturally as water won't help the lower surface, then free the parts. -Prep the poundland epoxy resin/milliput/etc. For the poundland, mix it up using the blue thingy with it, and also use that to scoop it into the gaps, paint some onto the top half, and use a paperclip to gently burst any airbubbles within/paint into the finer details. Being a quick repair epoxy rather than a modelmaking one, it's only got about five minutes before it'll start solidifying so don't do a lot of bits at once, but will have gone through the warm stage before you're putting it on the mould. Try not to overfill the mould, just aim for enough to make the part but err on a little extra -Hopefully you get something half decent. I usually try to check after 20 minutes to see how it has gone. The part will be soft and probably a little sticky but this is a good time to pluck off the mould line overspill, and then clean up with a blade later when it's a bit stiffer.

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Cheers for all the tips, after watching others use it and get reasonable results I was a bit gutted, I only used it as Im waiting for silicone rubber to arrive which is what I have used before with excellent results. Once again though thank you for your advice, much appreciated =)

@garyfindlay8052 4 года назад

Tip:You can make your own silicon rubber molds cheaply with DIY silicon gel/sealant, mixed with corn starch/corn flour (there are videos on youtube about it).

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Cheers buddy I might take a look into that although I like using silicone rubber as the results with that stuff is great =)

@theodoreburt7638 3 года назад

I have used this method and have great results. It takes a bit of practice and experimenting with mix ratios. during the process try waiting different amounts of time letting it sit before making a mod with the find that sweet spot for different items to be cast. Once you get it down you'll probably be sold on it

@michaelwellner1333 4 года назад

If the pouring resin liquid plastic giving off heat as it hardens solidifies in the oyumaru thermo plastic mould then the cast removed will blur smooth out fine detail - judging by others pressure clamping in a jig is a proven method, look forward to rubber mold method, suggest also latex layering with backing support, time & great patience, enjoyed your creative content, thanks...General Rid Stump!!!

@Rignite1801 4 года назад

Epic!

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

cheers bud =)

@Blandco 4 года назад

Green stuff works better with the Ouymaru. It helps to put some heavy weights on the mold and really squash it in there.

@athollmcnicoll256 3 года назад

Is this an alternative to "Greenstuff" product which is meant to have better results, not that I have ever used either as I have more than enough spares.

@toughtimes6596 3 года назад

Its works ok with UV resin for detailed but not finely detailed if that makes sense. The less detail, the better it performs. (Oyumaru)

@meatybtz 4 года назад

The Oyumaru, as others have said, works best when hot.. how hot? If it is pretty much burning your fingers as you are working it.. it's hot enough. You have SECONDS to mold it as it rapidly cools. For using miliput or similar two part putty (green stuff, etc) you need to get the consistency right. Some water helps. Over all I prefer silicon molding with liquid silicon vs the Oyumaru, even though I have it. The Oyumaru needs to be TOO hot to comfortably use in order to get the mold detail. For pour molds there are some very specific techniques for use while pouring the liquid plastic that produce exceptional results. While it is just a glance at the topic, the mold needs to be thicker than most people want (2 part silicon for molds that does not need degassing is not cheap) and you need to pour at about a 45 degree angle. The mold should have plenty of vents. The vents need to be tight fitting and tall.. how tall? Taller than the max mold height on the angle. I use coffee straws or similar narrow straws. Done this way I can actually cast an entire sprue and have perfect results. I use the sprue locating pegs for vent locations. Also use the slowest curing liquid plastic as possible, 20+ min is ideal. In my opinion the Oyumaru isn't really worth it.

@thedungeondelver 3 года назад

You really need to clamp the Oyumaru around the parts. Lots of pressure, to get all the details in the pieces you're casting. Also, Oyumaru is definitely reusable. I have had some for a long time, it's turned color even, but it still works 100%.

@karlfelgate9765 3 года назад

Need to do this for some simple parts I need spare off

@raulortiz7402 4 года назад

I've managed to make a few whole models with oyumaru (totally just for science) and its really tricky to work with When making a 2 part mold, the part that you push into the oyumaru is usually gonna be the one that has nicer detail, while the "back" is usually gonna look crappier, so you have to be very mindful of how you face your parts as you cast them On top of that, you wanna work with it and make the mold while its still quite hot or it wont take details well at all Keep that in mind though and itll definitely get the job done

@Bricks_22 3 года назад

Question the main issue I'm having with 2 part mold is the 2 halves sticking together and just about ruining my mold when I pull them apart. Am I not allowing enough cooling time on the first mold before pushing them together?

@raulortiz7402 3 года назад

@@Bricks_22 sorry for the late reply, but yeah you need to let the first half cool for minimum 10 minutes (i usually let it set there a good 20 or more just in case) long as you do that they shouldnt stick together too hard

@jaanikaapa6925 4 года назад

More involved way, but should get you the best results. No plastic though, but resin. Get a mix of resins that allow for some softness and they won't break. Take a lot of pictures of the sprue you wish to replicate, all angles, put in Meshroom (free) to create a photogrammetry 3D mesh. Check it in Blender or some such. This will also allow you to edit it too. Now splice it and print it. You ought to get near 1 to 1 result. You can also edit, change poses, etc in the 3D software. Okay, sure, I am a giant nerd.

@Lebannehn 4 года назад

I use oyumaru for simple surfaces or terrain bits copying. Like rocks, stumps, logs, duplicating ready-to-use bases or just simple armour. Yes its reusable, but it takes serious amount of work to get a quality copy. So its faster and easier to just use plain silicon molds.

@luigiboi357 4 года назад

great job! btw your bgm made me think of persona 5 golden

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Cheers buddy, someone else said it sounded like 70's porn music lol. I was trying to go for a nondescript background track =)

@creditguys1358 3 года назад

Persona 5 Golden? That a new Persona Game? (I know it's probably a typo and probably meant P4G)

@MrVlandus 4 года назад

Good job

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Thankyou so much 🙂

@MrVlandus 4 года назад

@@MiniatureHobbyist for pure fun I made a full squad of kasrkins. There is a video of me showing them after being painted.

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

@@MrVlandus cool, I will take a look 🙂👍

@ZFG1467 3 года назад

The key to getting good detail is to use liquids for both the molds and cast that have low viscosity.

@andresu83 4 года назад

Silicone rubber mold is the only method that really work for me. The problem with the onimaru and the blue stuff from world stuff world is the quality of the copy.

@00GhostSlayer00 4 года назад

A home made pressure chamber helps get the plastic into the fine details

@jamiepetereit7828 4 года назад

I've tried to do oyumaru 2 part moulds and not had much success either, its truly not worth the effort to get a good 2 part mould with. i think its better for capturing basic surface details like maybe a space marine shoulder pad icon.

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Yup I think I was a bit optimistic trying to make a mould of too much for my first time, I should have tried something similar. I only used it as Im waiting for silicone rubber to arrive which is what I have used before with excellent results. The siligum works well but is expensive for a small amount but its worth trying out new stuff =)

@jamiepetereit7828 4 года назад

@@MiniatureHobbyist i've never used the silligum before was impressed with how that one turned out

@Azrael88demon 4 года назад

I've used Oyinmaru and it worked well. The trick is u have to get it really hot for it to catch the finer details. Like boiling water hot. At that temperature oyunmaru becomes like a soft paste gel. If your water is even a few degrees colder u get something like in this video that can't catch the details. Also u can use those thick household rubber gloves so u don't burn the skin off your fingers when plaing with hot water.

@jamesnolan7091 2 года назад

Using green stuff world blue stuff and a bit of green stuff works pretty well not perfect and wouldn't try do a full model but it's solid

@SirBuffton 4 года назад

It doesn't take me 3 minutes to go warm and soft.

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

hahahahahahahahahahaha =)

@garyfindlay8052 4 года назад

*porn music intensifies*

@LoneWolf-ti2mu 4 года назад

I use 'Blue Stuff' from Green Stuff World... re-used it for many projects BUT this type of moulding is best for one sided pieces as a press moulds only.

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Yup I think I was a bit optimistic using it for the first time making a 2 part mould with highly detailed figures 🙂

@woshstudios 3 года назад

Having looked at other content creators reviews on this kind of thing, you seem to be skipping a few steps to ensure mold alignment etc. This video is quite old now, have you had any better luck with miliput since?

@danielchalmers9815 4 года назад

You are likely loosing detail with the Oyumaru because you're hot water is not hot enough or because you are taking too long and the Oyumaru is cooling down too much. the softer the Oyumaru is the better it will capture detail. i even capture the detail of accidental hairs and sanding marks. For double casting in milliput mix the miliput with some water so that the surface is has a slimy feel, this will ensure that the piece fills all the details. good luck

@mikeching6374 4 года назад

I've used it to cast custom heads for 6-inch figures with reasonable success. Tried it with guns (Copied the metal 1/12 Titanfall guns), not as good. It's not very detailed, so I would say Oyumaru would be a quick, cheap and easy alternative to doing the traditional way of castign and moulding. I used Tamiya Quick Type epoxy putty instead of Milliput, I feel Milliput is a bit too rough and chunky--the Tamiya putty is a lot more expensive but its also finer IMHO.

@wolflittlepsycho3437 3 года назад

Silicone is better for longlasting and quality detailed molds :3 Costs same as Blue Stuff.

@spoons2044 4 года назад

are you the guy that does the MacDonald's adverts?

@imdeaded 4 года назад

Probbaly best for non figures . Maybe terrain

@M4RS117 4 года назад

When are you doing more stop motion or dioramas or anything to do with mega construx because those videos are the best

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Hiya bud, stop motions will be on my old channel, I started this one to do dioramas with miniatures like Warhammer 40k stuff =)

@M4RS117 4 года назад

OK but I mean when will you make a video on your old channel

@M4RS117 4 года назад

Oh and I am doing a giveaway of master chief

@M4RS117 4 года назад

Maybe

@M4RS117 4 года назад

Do you have master chief

@V081WLBlue 8 месяцев назад

Na mate, it works perfectly, you fekked up! lol

@Kevin-pn9ri 4 года назад

You should try mixing water, edible glycerin and gelatin powder. Play with the ratios. You can use that mold repeatedly by putting it in the microwave.

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

That sounds cool, I may have to give that a go 🙂

@Kevin-pn9ri 4 года назад

@@MiniatureHobbyist if I remember correctly the ratio was 5 gr of gelatin, 15 ml of glycerin and 10 ml of water. With that you will get exact casts.

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

@@Kevin-pn9ri thankyou =)

@WardenOfTerra 2 месяца назад

The only thing you should use Oyumaru for is press/relief casting. It's shit for 2-part moulds. I'd only ever use silicone for 2-part moulds.

@coltonberry985 4 года назад

That weird bowl made me have to do a double take to make sure my eyes stopped working

@jehtart3144 4 года назад

yes yes yes yes ye sye y syeesy yse sy e sye ysey es sey s eey finally i changed my accouhnt to match my content im zalos games would this work for mega construx figures

@DafterThings 4 года назад

This is a bit of a shame as I was hoping to use Oyumaru for the same thing. I'll give it a good but maybe just to make duplicates of MCX armour and body parts like torsos.

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Maybe try it on a small piece, I think I was a bit optimistic trying to make a mould of several body parts at once. The siligum worked well but is expensive for a small piece. Ive got more silicone rubber turning up soon as I like using that =)

@bazza1carter 4 года назад

Lego as a mould frame, nice!

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Yup its quick and reusable 🙂

@thefatasian9296 3 года назад

no you are using the oyumaru all wrong, it is supposed to be used with UV resin

@reisakashiya 4 года назад

Why do you keep calling the resin “liquid plastic”

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

Because it's a plastic in liquid form 😋

@reisakashiya 4 года назад

Miniature Hobbyist No, that’s resin, plastic doesn’t make a chemical reaction like that

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

That's me told, I will probably still call it liquid plastic 😋

@MiniatureHobbyist 4 года назад

@@reisakashiya although to be fair its actually called a polyurethane casting resin and polyurethane is a plastic material and yes I looked that up on google, hey Ive only been doing this for 3 weeks gimme a break =)

@gigaChad4570 4 года назад

Resin is, indeed, a thremoset plastic. As the name implies, it cures, or sets, via chemical reaction. The other variety is thermo plastics. These types can be reheated and reshaped, whereas the former cannot. They are both made up of complex polymer chains. This is, partly, why Finecast is more fragile than styrene.

@FiveFourOne87l1 4 года назад

Use to be a fan of games workshop... Now Im boycotting them... Greedy bastards.

@lamarmahomesbakesmecakewhe8520 2 года назад

Sorry but I feel like this is a paid video, you didn't even use the oyumaru correctly... For one; you attempted to mold 6 pieces at once with the oyumaru when it's supposed to be used in smaller quantities, second, you bash on a piece with amazing detail that you made with the omarayu then turn around and say the mold with the silligum was somehow better even though the piece you molded didn't even have half the detail that the milliput mold had.. not only that but it wasn't even the same piece, the piece you molded with silligum had far less details than the piece you attempted yo mold with the oyumaru... Last but not least... You only did ONE piece with the silligum, no matter what you are molding with, one piece will always be infinitely more easy and yield much better results than attempting multiple pieces, that's literally just common sense... Just like MANY others before me said, this is 100% the fault of the user, try using it the correct way and you'll love it.