I do enjoy your teaching ,ideas we have learned,the way to do things ,2 more generations,if you don’t have a program it won’t get made,sad but progress,I think not ,but time will tell,thanks for the video.
HE does! I owned that one for 5 years and I miss it sometimes... I have another one just like it in the shop under repair. I keep thinking I need to sell it to make room after it's fixed but then I use Don's and I start thinking of places to put it :)
@@10swatkins Can you feed from behind the mounting face of the nut,through the casting to a lube point mounted on the casting end? At least it will be a fixed tube not being moved by the table travel.
Good luck, dealing with Don,he just doesn't get it,you are on the right track, if you just replace the nut as is it will out live both of you,however if you put an oil hose it will out live his grate,GRATE grand children,
@@10swatkins Steve, I really enjoyed watching tonight, you and Don are a great pair.....is his lathe a Monarch?.....I am sure you know, but if you turn brass/bronze backwards and turn your cutting tool upside down, all the chips will go down to the bed instead of in your face....and that was one big mo honker lathe chuck....cheers my friend, Paul
To find the centre of the hole. I would have screwed in the threaded bar, put the tungsten tip, just touching the top of the threaded bar, measured the threaded bar with a micrometer, divide this by 2, this would have giving you the exact centre...
My eye was " good enough" for this one... It is pretty darn good and there is slop in the mounting hole... For really dead nuts position you way is great.
Don should make a lifting handle for each chuck and leave them in the chuck so he doesn't have to futz around with the tightening up the chuck on the lifter.
Hello Steve, I have been away from cam-lock chucks for a long time. When you mount the chuck and tighten the nuts to draw the studs in, how do you know the face of the chuck isn’t running out? In my brief time in a job shop so many years ago, I didn’t think about this. A threaded spindle draws up to a shoulder face. With the cam-lock, it’s only the short taper that sets the chuck, not drawing to a shoulder? Correct? If so, can’t you tighten up unevenly and get face runout? The spindle taper seems mighty short. (As a footnote I recall the Buck 3-jaw cam-lock chucks had a separate run-out adjustment to get the radial runout dead on once mounted. ) Just curious if you could comment. Thank you again and Don for taking the time to post. We old guys have only so many days left in this life. Thank you for taking the time to share your work with us. Randy Wyoming, DE
Another fun and informative video. Thanks ! I sometimes wish I had a T wrench as big as Dons. I’m not as strong as I used to be. I was wondering can you remelt that wax and reuse it?
Concerning the oiler setup, I have several questions to ponder. Hopefully something interesting will develop. Steve, what came first? Was the cast-iron crap from the beginning, began breaking up and plugged the oil feed? Or, was the casting just fine and the oil feed plugged up cousing the failure? I wonder, is there some miss alignment from the git go that caused the stress on the threads that started the mess to begin with? (So all your careful measuring will just build the error back into the machine.??) Lest set these questions aside for a moment and consider: Are all shapers of this era set up like this? Were there updated arrangements or redesigns? One last question/obsurvation. If the hole was plugged and not the felt, The problem isn't the felt, Oil was design to flow onto the nut and out onto the threads eventually filling up all the cavities, Don pointed this out. So lots of oil was moving through with this system. So the gunk in the hole came from the nut or inside ware. Steve, you point out the the holes drilled into the old nut are not square or parallel to each other. For me that is a big "WHAT THE". This part is so deep in the machine, would the original Machine Fitter have ever dug that deeply? Finally would you consider plugging the original holes and drilling new on the opposed diagonal doing your own alignment?
On the holes.... I would think a little slop would let the nut move and compensate for the alignment of the screw.... I thing the side movement is not as critical since it is a shaper... IT;s up to Don as to how he wants to put it in ;)
@@10swatkins Thanks Steve. Making a comment from long distance is always a shot in the dark. You and Don are always very careful and observant as you work your way through projects, so I've no bought the project will succeed. LOL and Thanks to you both.
That crappy oil dripper system probably kept it working for 30 or more years of hard production work and then whatever it has endured since it was put out to pasture, I'm guessing your repair will see it through into the next century now
@@10swatkins I have a 24" Cincinnati shaper like yours and I am in the process of doing the same thing. I am replacing the lead screw and the nut. I will also be adding pressurized lube to my nut which is going to be a split nut so I can adjust for backlash. Best of luck with your shaper rebuild.
how tall is the ceiling in that shop? Looks like 8ft. Do you ever wish it was 9? I am planning to build a garage and was wondering if I should add the extra expense to go 9ft, maybe 10.
I was thinking about it last night again... It's going to be tough to make something work through the sides.... What I don't know about is how much room there is to make something come out the front of the machine towards the table... At least that way it could be a short path and move along with the nut... Just have to see ...
