The original Adox films were my late Dad’s favourites in the 1960’s and he always developed in Beutler formula, as a single bath, which is easy to make at home. It gives good sharpness and tonal range.
I loved Efke 100 and 50. Souping it in Rodinal in medium format 1:65 gave amazing tones. The extended green sensitivity makes it excellent for woodlands and portraiture. When Adox CHS II is back in stock, I'll certainly pick some up.
Awesome, Efke in 100 and 50, were amazing films! I’ve never tried a 1:65 dilution on Rodinal, will have to tuck that away for later. Thanks for watching 🍻
I haven't shot any CHS 100 II, yet, but I have a good stash of EFKE 25 (35mm) in the freezer that I bought from a dealer in Croatia shortly after the plant shutdown. Put this emulsion behind some Leica glass and develop it in Pyrocat-HD and you'll gain a new appreciation for what that tiny negative can deliver!
@@AlexLuyckxPhoto I am not a fan either, but it all brings into question if Adox really manufacture any of their films or just buy up frozen stuff and rebrands them until they run out. The list of their discountinued films is very long. Myself, I have come to rely on Ilford, Kodak or even Rollei.
I think the reason for water stop bath, and alkaline fixer with 510 pyro is to prevent the stain from washing out. The stain helps to retain highlight detail.
Yes, always use water stop with pyro developers. I wasn’t clear on that one, in general you can use an acid stop, except for pyro. Thanks for watching 🍻
I've been shooting this film (135) for about a year - but I have to say it is not my favorite film. The negatives always come out thin - no matter what developer I use - be it HC110, FX39, Rodinal, ID11, D76, Ilfotec HC, Pyro 510. The film is properly exposed so that is not the problem. The other issue I have with this film is the polyester base as it curls pretty badly even though ADOX says it has an anti curling layer. The same issue I find with Rollei 80s. I am not a fan of polyester bases and it also attracts dust. I definitely preferred their Silvermax film when they were still producing it. I'll stick with FP4+, Delta 100 and Rollei RPX 100 which alway give fantastic results.
Yes the curl is stronger in the 35mm over the 120 but still present. I also had thin negatives which is why I started the slight over exposure shooting at 80 then developed normally, got back more density. But the films you’re shooting are bulletproof! Thanks for watching 🍻
I'm using ADOX CHS 100 II as 4x5 (rated ISO 50 with -1 pull development in D-76), and I find it to be just great! Maybe I should give it a try in 120 format, and go with less over-exposure and normal development (I started to use pull development to control contrast with my pinhole shots and the contrast increase of the reciprocity error). Addendum: No problems with curling and flatness for the 4x5 sheets.
@@AlexLuyckxPhoto Have to test how it fares with pinhole (I'm not sure if I got straight to -1 pull, because I started 4x5 only with pinhole photography, and only now getting into "real" lenses for my 4x5). My problem with many of the developers you've mentioned is their lack of suitability for rotary development (the only way I do get even results with 4x5; tried SP 445, SP 8x10 and Jobo 2520 rotation, and only the last option gives me consistent results without any development streaks or the like).
@@c.augustin 510-Pyro is great for rotary processing! In fact, all the 120 rolls I showed here were all done in a Rotary processor, the B's Processor, either on pulse or in constant (slow) mode.
Where can we get the adox chemistry in Toronto? I have an adox film stock (ISO 25, I think) on my fridge for two or three years now and never shoot it because of the chemistry which at this time has eluded me.
Argentix.ca is out of Quebec and they’re the best but stocks are low. You may have to bite the bullet and order from the States or Germany. Thanks for watching 🍻
Thanks for this. I'll try to find a supplier in the UK and test it in 510Pyro. Or maybe a simple 2 Bath might pair with this emulsion? We'll see. All the best from South Wales - UK.
Two totally different films! You just have to look at the spectral sensitivity charts. CHS you see a drop at 650nm so no extended red sensitivity whereas Retro 80s goes to just short of 800nm. 80s is far more contrasty and has less exposure latitude. Sorry it’s a bit technical but I hope it helps thanks for watching 🍻
IME - a terrible film, at least in 35mm. Incredibly (and I mean incredibly) grainy both in D76 1+1 and in HC110 1+47. Also a 50 EI film in my workflow. I can get the same grain, and tonality with Kentmere 400, which is a 320 EI film in my chain. Kentmere 100, Foma 100 are much finer grain 100 ISO films than the Adox. I love Adox' commitment to film photography, but unless the 120 CHS II is really different from the 35mm, I have to say buyer beware. I personally won't be buying any.
That’s fair! And one of the best parts about film and photography is that personal preference is everything! And I totally agree with too much grain in 35mm with D-76 and HC-110/Ilfotec HC. And Kentmere and Foma 100 are both amazing films! Thanks for watching and sharing 🍻
