Thanks, You´re back! You are amazing! Keep up the good work you always do. I have an "Ender 2 V2" typical, "leftover", what do you think I should do with it? I now have an Ender 5 pro with an upgraded direct drive kit (Micro Swiss), mostly thanks to you. It works like a charm. I also bought an Ender 3 V3 KE and it also performs like I am not used to Ender printers done before. I hope that your "old school" (about 2 years old;-) skills help people to understand the basic knowledge of 3D printing, because with the new machines they stand there and itching their heads and don´t understand a thing. "Let´s press play again" or "Let's restart, it always helps". It´s just like with CNC machines, in which I Teach. If it isn´t done automatically it´s no good. I try to teach them that the finished results are what humans stand for. They don´t seem to understand that. In Sweden we have a proverb (freely translated to English/US)" If shit comes in, shit comes out". Keep up your good work, I hope there were more like you in Sweden! You´re welcome!
I've been doing 3D printing for better than a year, and I still learned quite a lot from this video! I like the idea of using your fingers to feel the adhesion and shape of the bead being laid down. Also I have never connected a console before (not had much of a need), but it looks simpler than I had imagined. Great video!
a few years ago I used carefully cut thick extra strong aluminium foil to help square up the frame as shims as well as level the heat bed on a 1st release of the CR10, the beauty is it doesnt affect the heat transfer, this old printer is still running after all these years and have not moved the foil at all - I hope you and your people are well in these troubling times - take care.
During your video I kept asking myself " is the bed heating up evenly on the right side?". I've seen people use thermal cameras to check that. And when you did the pid test I was wondering if you'd also do it on the bed. I have a cr10 smart with auto bed leveling and i don't think it ever worked properly. I have to manually level it all the time.
@5:30 i was thinking that if you left it 1/4 or 1/2 loose then you could tighten the tube down more securely? Also i do the leveling a bit different, 1.heat bed and nozzleI 2.home it/ increase height to 0.3 3. fold a piece of paper cause a piece of paper is 0.15 4. do the corners and make sure the paper is snug but not to much. 4a. this is the tricky part its almost a art. 5. go around the bed like 3 times and done I've used this method many times on my alunar m508 and couldnt be happier. IE yes i still use it as old as it is.
I have a creality 3D printer ender v and I forgot to put my laptop up one night and my cat knocked it off of the couch and the way it landed it managed to break my memory card and the USB stuck you put in the computer can you please tell me what to get that will work for my printer?
most 3d printer are ai and auto bed levelling and very fast at printing, i have a ender 3 s1 converted to auto bed levelling also have a Bambu lab P1S combo, creailty K1 and max, elegoo Neptune 4 pro, and plus
Great video as always, I've shared it with my printing groups. I love the idea of you putting a terminal into your website. I add PID autotune options to all the firmwares I run up for people but for those who don't or can't use our firmwares we also have a library of gcode files that will run the PID tune as if it's a print, so people can just download the files to suit the temperatures they need, and for printers that allow bed PID tests we also have a collection of gcode files for that. It's surprising what tools you can create with a few lines of gcode.
It is great to see your content again. I hope you are well. I know content creators can burn out. Even headed explaining. Suggestion don’t buy a 20 w wecreat laser cutter. Another rabbit hole us boomers can go down😅
Just like with car owners I find there are primarily two types of 3D printer users: Those who are willing to learn all about their printers, knowing they will need work to keep operating properly and those who just want to take it out of the box and print things without having to put in any real effort. personally I find that if you're not interested, or willing, to "get elbow deep" into your printer and be willing to take it apart and learn how it works so that you can fix it yourself you will never get all that you can from it. I work with someone who was shocked that I have so many printers and he told me he has one collecting dust in his basement because it broke. I asked him what was wrong and he said 'I don't know. It just doesn't work". After speaking a bit more it seemed that the problem was that prints didn't stick to the bed so they always failed. I said that it sounded like the bed needed to be leveled and cleaned and I offered to help him. He told me that it seems like too much work and he wasn't going to do that. If you find that a simple bed leveling is too much work then the printer is not your problem.
I don't understand why cut at a 45 when loading filament, I find it's still too fussy, much prefer to blast it with a torch lighter, stretch and cut to a straight point, getting the filament through with a 45 between the ender 3 extruder gears sucks and often takes me far too long, so much easier with a long point
I bought a white filament and it had a lot of problems. The surface was matte and it seemed as it had particles like fine sand in it. I think that cheap white filaments have problems because of the pigment that make it opaque. As a side note the natural transparent filament seems to be the strongest and best. Haven’t had any problem with black filament and it is very telling that the black is always sold out but they have loads of white.
White filament is notoriously unreliable. I’ve had whole prints in white delaminate and just fall apart. I tossed all my white filament in the trash and have never had adhesion problems since.
I have the perfect method to level the bed for the flsun qq-s pro. #1 I used Klipper. #2 I use a caliber used to adjust spark plug gaps at .1mm and manually adjust the mesh. The bed on qw-s pro is glass so different sized caliper could be used for different bed materials. Since I use a caliper, prints always stick and I can even remove the print while the bed is still hot. If it cools down, the print slides right off. I could never get paper to work properly to adjust. A caliper is precision. I might attach a wire, battery, led so that when the nozzle touches the caliper, it would light up the led for even more precision. BTW, love the idea of the post-it under the removable bed. Of course, on my delta, the bed is fixed.
Printers do not ages with proper maintenance. If the frame is stable and not wood or acrylic it just needs maintenance to get it to print in the same quality as a brand new printer.
Hi Please can you help me I know i will be lucky to get a reply from someone like you I am new to 3d printing and when you are new you just dont know which brand to buy i was very unlucky to have purchased the a30m by geeetech i paid almost $400 for it I unboxed it recently and am still unable to print anything it came with a micro sd card containing a print file the print quality was rough and incomplete and as i become more experienced i find out that it is not my fault the test file has already been sliced or converted to g code i expected the a30m to print 2 colors however it only printed one incomplete or without a head and rough I tried slicing with cura however file cannot be modified and could not establish connection with printer and the file was in one color however supplied with a dual extruder printer The auto bed level will not work as well and i have to do this manually Regarding rough finish i did research printer settings and tried to print again Now filament is not extruding i have cleaned the nozzle and filament does extrude for cleaning however not priniting I walked into hell with geeetech as there is no tech support believe me i have tried Knowing what i know now and brands such as Bambulab or even creality i know i made a very big mistake. I will not spend a penny more on geeetech and would rather throw it away than give such evil to charity I only give things away that have been good to me I a m the type to give things away because it is horrible Sincerely Ejike
4 of the 5 FDM printers i bought were bought non working, all of them were fixed by addressing the previous owners lack of setup or maintenance knowledge and i didn't have to buy a single part. Even my latest machine which i believe has a fried component on the main board thanks to some pinched shorted wires. I was able to pick up the needed power elsewhere on the board. My other ender 3 was bought used on ebay and fired up right out of the box with zero issues. My one resin printer was sold as working but the screen was actually wrecked, probably from spilled resin during storage. That was a $20 repair.
Another Pro Tip... If youre planning on upgrading to a BL/CR Touch module, do it before you have too much time on the machine as the Zero Point will be different. My issue happened when I upgraded mine( removed the original limit switch) and then started notice a small distortion in my layer lines that appear at the same height on whatever print/model. I deduced that my slot rollers had seated(worn in) in a certain area and since the zero point was different, theres now a very slight but noticeable area the rollers are uneven.
