Nice, a nother pice of equipment saved. I would recommend adding a quality fuse on the positive wire of the battery as close to the battery terminal as possible and insulating caps on the battery terminals and other exposed positive connections. Keep up the great work!
10/10. I don't know you or what you typically do. What I can say is that you found an item, found the problems, and fixed those problems. You had the brain power to come up with solutions. You have what it takes to do anything that needs a mechanical mindset. Keep it up. I noticed some other interesting things in the background. I'll stick around.
I've seen that several times young man. That's what happens when some cheapo runs their equipment on French fry grease. It does work but only for so long. That's why it smells like dirty fryer. JP8 is mostly kerosene and never does that. Don't listen to these armchair pros, keep doing what you are doing that's how you learn.
It runs ok depending on the type of veg oil, temperature or if it's blended. The real problem is you can't store it with veg oil in the lines. I've been running biodiesel in just about all the diesel equipment on the farm, but anything that get parked for a while gets off-road run through it before.
That looked like a lot of compressor oil. You will see it has a sight glass at the bottom of the case, which is currently dirty. It should be half way up that sight glass. Just if you were not aware. Too much oil in a compressor can do real damage, as the arm is slapping into the oil every rotation and slings it around. Too high and you can do damage.
Only JP8 doesn't have the lubricity of diesel and will ruin finicky injection pumps. Stanadyne pumps on HMMWVs bit the dust pretty frequently down range on jet fuel
At first I thought it was bad editing to leave in the "it just got dark" stuff, but then I saw it got really dark really fast and I realized it was worth seeing. I have a theory that someone tried to run this engine on asphalt. My second theory is that heat soaked into the fuel pump and broke down some junk oil they were running it on until it all plugged with tar.
Great save , put water proof cover over electrics and switch , a little water from rain will wreck the switch, not hard to straighten alloy frame and reinforce with steel angle .😊
The 2 caps on fuel tank the big one is so can be filled from a fuel truck small one is to fill from a fuel can I would repair the frame and add angel irion to beef it up
That electric fuel shutoff solenoid looks identical to the one on some 5.9 Cummins industrial engines with the rotary pump. From Cummins, they are well over $100. Amazon has them for about $35. Been there, done that. Lol
I have not watched the whole video yet but the charging system on this engine series usually produces about 30volts ac witch has to go into a voltage regulator to convert it to 12volts dc
From Subie owner to Subie owner: Get that rust under control as soon an possible! Or elese you have to probabbly send it off to get a whole new rear end (had to do so on mine...) But nice video as always!
Good job Fixing thatdiesel motor You got a Bobcat out there what size is that I got one just like it mind at 444 Bobcat I took the motor out of mine and put A Vanguard 23 Horse So have a good day stay safe and we'll see you again my friend
That compressor probably sat around for a long time with old fuel in it. Then, some newbie private was told by a senior enlisted to fill it with anything flammable.
I'm wondering if you should use a starter solenoid instead of running the battery directly to the start switch? The switch may not last long, if it's directly connected to the starter. Just a thought. Great find a work getting it back in shape. Wish I could come across deals like this!
I would say that black goopy stuff was the reason it was auctioned off in the first place. They probably just wanted rid of it because it wouldn't start
Neat. At present day, a battery tire inflation device would be the more common method......... but an "in the field" air compressor could be put to many uses
@@DeadKoby this is more so for larger trucks. In the past I’ve had to use a large electric wall plug in compressor paired with a large generator. Now I have it all in one. But most flat tires can be had with my 12v compressor.
Hi a question have you considered starting an engine and then cleaning or refurbishing after testing if it works or not , because after cleaning it might not work as it might damage some parts
That thing would be great in the apocalypse. Since it's a small diesel engine you could run just about anything through it such as offroad diesel, vegetable oil, olive oil, used motor oil, peanut oil, heating oil, kerosene etc. Heck the oils would possibly even be better for the injector pump than diesel fuel since modern diesel fuel doesn't have as many lubricants in it since just about every modern diesel powered vehicle these days doesn't have mechanical injectors and just has electronic injectors.
The original injection pump may be fine, you got to remember that the plunger is being compressed and then released every time that the engine makes a full 4-stroke cycle, the fuel metering lever on the side of the pump might move freely when the plunger on the pump is extended?
@@BradenBuildz I have a Lister diesel powered generator, basically the same working principle as the engine you have in regards to the injection pump. Diesel generators are better than a gas equivalent in my opinion.
They can run on JP8 jet fuel but it is not good for the engine sometimes it was all they had when they were over in foreign countries so they would mix some ATF in with the fuel for some extra lubrication
The mechanical shut off was working correctly the engine has to be spinning for it to reset, there is a spring in the shutoff that moves it over once it’s on its depression stroke
New one doesn’t act like the old ones. Shut off lever moves weather it’s compressed or not. Tested the new one in the vice just as I tested the green one. The after market injection pumps are pretty popular because of this.
Braden, the lever on the side of the injection pump isn't a digital device (on or off). It is an analog device, controlled by the fly weight governor inside the engine, giving speed from off to rated speed. It's a good thing you got it freed up, otherwise, being stuck in thee full fuel position, you would have had a runaway engine. :( Granted you could have killed it with the compression release lever.
No, it’s on/off, none said it was digital. The lever quite literally says “start/run” and “stop” Edit: and also you can tighten lever to hold it in place. If it was a governor it would not allow you to do that.
@@BradenBuildz This is wrong. It is an adjustable governor. You set the desired engine RPM (all the way to 0 which is "stop") by using the nub, then the governor inside the engine keeps that RPM (up to a point, if you exceed the maximum load for a given RPM the engine will still slow down and possibly stall). They are widely used on all of these little diesel engines and usually the full open position keeps the engine at 3000RPM. If it wasn't a governor your engine speed would be much faster when the tank is empty and the compressor has no load, but you can hear that it runs at the same speed all the time. It is not supposed to be stuck however. Now that the engine has been run a while I bet it has freed up.
Shutting down the engine with the compression release is absolutely not recommended. You would be squirting fuel and incomplete combustion byproducts back into your air filter through the open intake valve, dirtying it much faster than normal.
It's not really that bad, just clean everything. If the IP is clogged then u have a problem. Jet fuel and diesel are just light oils, that's oil diesel in the pump ir just straight oil. YOU shouldn't have a hard time finding an injection pump for it. all
I'd like to recommend you wear nitrile gloves and work in plenty of fresh air. Lots of guys don't heed that and spend their 50s plagued with health problems or they straight up croak. I've seen it happen plenty. It's not worth being lazy or macho thinking you don't need to protect yourself.
that's a harbor freight compressor head... prolly a rotax diesil... that green says its came from vietnam era... that tar would be jp-8 bunker fuel byproducts
That Tar substance is probably the buildup of JP-8 fuel used by the Military. JP-8 was specified in 1990 by the U.S. government as a replacement for government diesel fueled vehicles.
I think You should leave off the hand starter but change it for a grate- better cooling that way. I´d leave it off when the starter/charger do their job. The Military just wanted to be shure it goes. And I´d advise to always wear gloves and open the shop before starting anything or start outside. Any engine farts out its worst when it´s cold, the 1st thirty seconds are the worst. You´re a young buck, I´d like for You to turn into an old fart, not die after ten years of suffer with sixty. And while we´re at it: try start the bugger at idle, let it build some heat and oil pressure- then give it the beans. You´ll become old together- job done. Kind regards
The black something that you are looking at is a coding that they put in the gas tanks back in the day isn't got old because of that old gas in deteriorated
The military order job specific tools and then sell them off once the job is complete, which is a huge waste of money. But it's not their money they're spending though.
