Hey Steve hope you had a nice Christmas just wanted to say thank you for sharing all the videos and sharing your knowledge appreciate it and all the work you put into these videos want to wish you a happy new year hope you have a healthy new year I will be watching thank you again
Hi Steven ! I got the riello 40 g2s running again. It was the magnetic valve that was stuck. it's up and running again, with the help of your videos. Thx for the effort you put into this. Regards from Denmark. Chris
Hello, Great videos! I have a Riello 40-F3 where should my air setting be? I have a nice hot bright flame no smoke but want to also save oil. Will I be burning more oil with the air at a higher setting? At the arrow it is at 3.2 Thank you for your help.
hello Steven , would you be able to tell me if screwing in the burner adjuster screw clockwise on the oil pump increases the burner pressure or decreases the pressure please?
Got a question got riello burn runs fine until I put actuators the little thing that spins the thing that dictates how rich the mixture is it continues to spin
Hi Steve, my boiler has fuel leak after technician changed fuel pipe and fitted one fire valve. After that I noticed the burner off within 2 or 3 minutes meanwhile motor is working no fire. It frequently happens but some time it's works fine. I informed them but they said it's as normal. Is that correct or any problem? Thanks
Hi Steve, I solved the issue of my Riello 40. It was caused by an air leak in a coupler that joins the fuel filter to the pipe that goes to the burner. There was no fuel leaking, just air leaking into the pipe. I used your procedure to prime the pump running the motor by a bridge between terminal 5 and 6 of the primary controller. I noticed that every time I primed the system, the burner would fire. After a couple times noticing that the burner would misfire, then stop burning I suspected a leak and went on to check every joint on the fuel line. As soon as I tightened the joint and re-primed the system, the furnace started to run smooth. In the process, I adjusted the electrodes, replaced the nozzle and changed the fuel filter. Now it burns clean, smooth and quiet. My garage has heat again. The take home here is to make sure fuel lines are nice and tight. Hope my saga helps someone else in need.
Great job with your series Steven. Where do you get those flat top containers you use for oil? Starting to grasp vacuum readings. What would a normal vac reading be with say 20' line and a clean filter?
usally if the oil line is clean and clean the vac will be very low if there is a restriction then the vac will go up the pump will be pulling more i will do more stuff wit vac in the rear future
Hi Steven, My Riello 40 runs, but will not fire. Last time it did this I replaced a rectangular switching relay part number 7020004. I tried to get a replacement, but it seems to be discontinued. Can you point me to a place where I can get one? Thanks
Hey, is it normal for a 40 Riello burner to use lots of electricity? When the burner turns on my electric meter disk spins 15-20 times a minute! Plus its burning 55 gallons in 9 days.
No and no, riellos do use less electric and way less oil. If a buried tank, you may have a leaker. Check for leak in buried tank. Stick tank with burner off, leave off, if not freezing out, for at least 12 to 24 hours, stick again to see if oil has dropped. If above grand
+Steven Lavimoniere ...Steve, I have a Riello 40, that looks just like yours (Red, and much older) but it has no visible Bleed fitting. It has that adjustment just above it (with the flathead screw in the center) but nowhere on the unit, can I find a fitting to bleed it from. I've bled the brakes on cars, so I know how to do it, but I can't figure out how they want us to bleed this old beast! Also, that adjustment just above your bleeder, is that for Air/Fuel mixture? I may not have it exactly where it was, as I was looking for a place to bleed this burner from. I didn't see any change in the flame when I turned it, but it reminds me of the Jets on a Carburetor. Can you please give me some advice? Thanks, ...Angie
riello pumps don't pull vacuum at all in pre-purge by design. they only pull vacuum when the solenoid is open. if there's a bit of oil in the gears and the solenoid is open she'll pull a vacuum for the fun of it! I'd still sooner stick with two lines for anything with a lift, it definitely saves on headache when it comes to bleeding it.
I love those oil burners, earier to work on then gas/propane furnaces, TOO MANY SENSORS, with a oil burner, just have the cad cell to detect the flame, very simple to work on, i have a WAYNE OIL BURNER M-SR, burning used car oil in it, NO DIESEL FUEL, just used car oil, ONE GALLON OF GAS TO EVERY 5 GALLONS OF USED CAR OIL, and no problem burning it.
You should have noted to the viewers that the hydraulic piston to the air gate has been removed. It's a oil leak waiting to happen. I don't know why they put these on them BUT, they,re easily removed and plugged. Mine finally failed and I'm removing the whole thing and plugging the port. The instructors say the vacuum gauge is really only used to troubleshoot two pipe systems, which you do seem to have...
Mike Malone yes the hydronic piston they do leak ,best to remove them .or there will be a problem ,they could leak .a vac gauge will only work if there is a blockage on pipe then you will get a high reading .if there is a good flow the vac gauge will not read to high .if there is a restriction it will go high . a tiger loop is great for a reillo burner they pull crazy vaccum
"the hydraulic piston to the air gate has been removed. It's a oil leak waiting to happen. I don't know why they put these on them" Totally agree - a leak waiting to happen. Pretty sure the idea was to stop the residual heat being drawn through the appliance (wasted) once the burner has stopped firing. To be fair to Riello it wasn't standard issue on the R40 series and has been "nerfed" since the RDB superseded it. I don't know who said it but they were right. "You solve one problem and create another"
@@stevenlavimoniere Steve, I'm not sure how to get a message to you, especially on a 4 year old video, but if you can read my question above, I would really appreciate some advice! Thank You very much, ...Angie
Disregard the #0 and the #4…….the first line (mark) is O and last line is 4…….it depends what size nozzle you are running. Reply back and I will give you the Turbulator and Air damper settings based on your nozzle.
+Al Gregory (Heaterman) I know this is an old post, but I do the same with gas furnaces. I regularly remove the burners and run them right out in the open. Like him, I am not scared of it; but I can't quite say the same of my clients. Haha.
