Rikon Bandsaw Blade Changes 

Thanks for the kind words. Some folks (myself included) just learn faster with a visual aide. Thanks for tuning in.

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Glad that you found the show to be useful. Thank you for tuning in and good luck with your blade changes.

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Glad to hear that you found the show useful. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave a comment. I appreciate it. Good luck with your new saw. I hope you enjoy it.

Sorry to hear about your mishap. I take safety quite seriously in the shop and at my place of employment. It only takes a split second to change your entire life....and not for the better. Thanks for tuning in to the show. Good luck with your new saw. I hope you enjoy it.

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Glad to hear that you are enjoying the 10-326 Norm. I have to say that I also, am enjoying mine. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your comment. I appreciate you support.

Thanks for the kind words on the show Fred and for taking the time to chime in with your suggestion. I haven't experienced the problem that you are speaking of but if I do, I now have a solution. I'm sure that it will definitely come in handy. Thanks for tuning in to the show. I truly appreciate the support.

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Band saw blades are tricky to handle because of the spring of the steel. They can give a nasty bite so be sure to wear a pair of thick glove (preferably leather) when handling the blades. I'm glad you were only nicked. As for the dust port adapter, Amazon might be your friend here as there are plenty to choose from to get you vacuum hose to fit the dust port properly. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words. I truly appreciate it and I hope you enjoy your new saw.

Thanks for the kind words on the show and good luck with your new saw. If you have any issues with the assembly or the setup, I have a video for each of those processes on the channel. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gpLuv3ElaBA.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-noA-G1CSBc8.html I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.

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BBT and their Craftex line have their plusses but they also aren't the highest quality of tool there is. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words.

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Thanks for the kind words and the suggestion of Alex Snodgrass' method. As you well know, for every process in woodworking, there are approximately 279.6 different methods of achieving that process. As long as proper safety methods are used during said method and the method doesn't pose any danger or threat to the woodworker, then there is nothing wrong with it. Be it far from me to feel offended if someone else has an alternate method than mine. In fact, I applaud them for thinking outside of the norm and finding their own path. In a hobby where our tools can remove limbs, it is important to feel comfortable with your tools and your tool's setup while still retaining a healthy fear of the machinery and its power. If you have a link to his setup method, I invite you to post it here on this conversation. My method is not the only method out there and as my show is all about education, I welcome new methods as a teaching tool. Thanks for tuning in to the show Paul and taking the time to leave a comment. It's appreciated.

@@acutabove_woodworkings @paulsmessyworkshop I also highly recommend using the Alex Snodgrass method where you do not center the blade itself on the wheel, but instead center the deepest part of the gullets of the teeth as Paul suggested. It is based on logic, physics, and is a time-tested, proven method. Although it is older, fast-paced, and difficult to actually see the details, I think Alex's best video covering his methods is the *Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass* video on *thewoodworkingshows* RU-vid channel. Kenny, now regarding your video, in your "timed" blade-changing tutorial, I did not see you include proper RE-TENSIONING of the larger blade, which is important to do BEFORE adjusting your guide & thrust bearings, and of course for general operation. I'm not trying to nitpik, but I feel it's important since many new or existing band saw owners will now be using your video as their setup guide. ;) I would also suggest using dry graphite lube (the type used for keyed padlocks and door latch/lock mechanisms) to lube the upper wheel's tilt/tracking mechanism so that it does not bind. Hitting that wheel multiple times every time you change a blade or need to re-adjust the tracking is going to cause some potential damage and wear over time. This is something that Rikon should fix in the design, but using the dry graphite lube does remedy this issue. Notes on the band saw itself: I wish that Rikon sold the smaller 10" benchtop model with the option for the quick-set bearing guides that this 10-326 has! That alone makes a huge difference in setup and overall quality of cut. In addition, for the price, I think Rikon should include a built-in LED worklight! LEDs are fairly inexpensive these days. Like you, I'd also like to see the power switch relocated a bit higher on the column. Otherwise, you've done a great job with this video and your review video as well. Thanks for posting. 👍

@@bbfoto7248 Not quite sure how to react to this comment.....so I will just say thanks for tuning in to the show.

"the deepest part of the gullet in the center of the tire regardless of the blade" Makes a cool story until you actually try it. 3/4" 3 tpi blade: tooth to back edge (total width) .734 Bottom of gullet to back edge of blade .632 Width of tire .921 Thus, centering the bottom of the gullet on the tire runs the back edge of the blade off the rear of the tire.

Glad that you found it useful and liked it Anthony. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave a comment. It's very much appreciated.

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Thanks for the extremely kind words on the show this week sir. I appreciate you tuning in and appreciate your support. As for the teaching...who knows? Maybe when I finally retire from my real job, I might do a teaching gig or maybe start my own school of woodworking. ;)

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@@acutabove_woodworkings my pleasure! I see you are in the Toronto area? I'm just down the QEW in Hamilton! Merry Christmas and be safe with the weather that's coming! Cheers

@@evelynmueller6523 Merry Christmas to you and yours as well.

I've never really delved into the blade tension issue but essentially, if you use your finger on the side of the blade and push the blade sideway after it is tensioned, it should move approximately 1/4" from it's original position. It's just a quick test to see if the tension is correct. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

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Thanks for the kind words on the show. I haven't really tried that many blades to come up with a blade manufacturer that I prefer. However, I have really fallen in love with the SuperCut Wood Saver brand of re-saw blades. Their thin kerf has been awesome in every re-saw job that I have done and I haven't had a single problem with them. I have been getting those from lee valley tools but I also see that they carry them on Amazon. I haven't looked any further than Lee Valley because they have had what I wanted every time I wanted it. I hope this helps. www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=75277&cat=1,41036,75262

No, I adjust each blade by feel John. If the blade is able to be tensioned by the lever, I do that first and then fine tune after the initial tension has been applied. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

Glad that the video was able to help you. Thanks for tuning in to the show and please don't hesitate to ask any questions you might have.

Don't lose faith Dan. You've got this. In no time at all, you will be changing blades like a pro and getting back to your pure excitement. Thanks for tuning in and good luck with your blade changes.

@@acutabove_woodworkings any suggestions with the problem I’m having...the top wheel has the blade centered but the bottom always ends up towards the front of the wheel. (3/16 blade)

@@iamdanimal2 To completely honest (and I know that there will be some that don't agree with me) I wouldn't be too concerned about it. I have had blades that run true on the upper and lower wheel and then I have had blades that run true on the upper but not on the lower and vice-versa. As long as the blade in this case isn't running off the wheels, I wouldn't be concerned. In my experience, some blades are just like that and there isn't much that you can do about it. If all of your other blades are running in the centre (for the most part) of the upper and lower wheels, it might be a good indication that your blade just isn't as perfect as it could be. I mean, you could mess around with the lower wheel and get them both running perfectly for the 3/16" blade, but as soon as you change the blade to a different size, you are going to run into the same problem for all the other blades. I know that this might be hard to accept, but honestly, some blades are just wonky like that. I've been there, done that. Once the blade outlived its life and was replaced, the next one ran fine. Not every weld is perfect, not every blade is 100% and in my opinion, not every blade needs to run in the centre on both the upper and lower wheels. If all of the other blades are running true on the wheels, the saw is not your issue and I wouldn't be concerned.

@@iamdanimal2 I had the same issue until I loosened up the tension a bit. I was moving from the wider blade included with the saw to a 3/16. Perfectly centering the top wheel would lead to the bottom rolling forward off the rubber onto the metal lip. I wasn't about to run the saw in that condition. It was crazy frustrating. Something I heard said on one of Snodgrass's videos led me to taking a good bit of the tension off, center the blade, and then slowly readjust the tension until you have the desired finger test result. My saw and I have a great relationship now. .

The blade tension will change from blade to blade. While the tension might be just fine for a 5/8" blade, putting in a 1/4" blade can make the tension way too loose or way to tight. There are just variances in blade size and length. I hope this helps Martin. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

Although this machine is not really meant to use a 1/8" blade, I still use one on it and it works just fine. I also use a 3/16" blade as well. As for the tension, I always release the tension on my tools whenever they are not in use. This especially goes for the band saw to avoid flat spots in the tyres. I also release tension on my belt sanders, scroll saw, table saw fence, drill press table, oscillating drum sander etc. Anything that requires tension to use, should have the tension released when not in use. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.

I'm just tapping the edge of the wheel to make sure that it is seated properly. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

Not the most conventional way to adjust your blade but I have to give you credit for ingenuity. LOL. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

There are many theories about where the gullets should be placed and where the blade should ride on the wheels. I'm of the belief that if it works for you and it cuts fine, then don't try and fix it. There are some saws that (for one reason or another) behave differently than others and their setup needs to be adjust to reflect that. As for the 3/4" blade video, I'm not aware of anyone who has a video showing this. What kind of problems are you having Roger? I may not be able to fix it but together we might be able to figure out the issue and get you moving in the right direction.

Everyone's setup is different. Thanks for tuning in.

The 10-3061 is basically the smaller version of the 10-326. The blade changing procedure on the 10-3061 should be the same as what I have demonstrated here on the show. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.

You statement confuses me a little. You say that you can get the blade to track well UNTIL you tension it. There should never be any tracking of the blade without tension. My suggestion to you would be to tension the blade and then adjust the tracking. Smaller blades are more finicky to track and sometimes they just prefer to run on the front or back of the wheel so don't be too concerned about the blade running in the centre. But definitely tension first, then track. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in.

@@acutabove_woodworkings ok I’ll definitely try that! But to be more specific, I’m putting the blade on, applying the tension lever on the back of the saw, turning the top wheel with my hand,l while adjusting the tracking knob. And then slowly adjusting the top tension knob. And the more tension from the top knob I apply, the more the blade begins to pop off.

@@stradicfanatic In order to track the blade properly, the blade has to be at full tension first. Try it and see how you make out.

That's exactly what I am ordering Buddy. 111" blades for the Rikon 10-326 14" band saw. I hope this helps. Here's a link to the blades at Lee Valley. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/saw-blades/band-saw/111150-blades-for-rikon-14-inch-deluxe-bandsaw Thanks for tuning in.

@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for all your help brother

@@buddytrent1351 You're very welcome.

Re-saw is what my saw is used for, almost exclusively. The very first thing I would suggest is to get yourself a designate re-saw blade and one that is designed for the purpose. They have a thinner kerf and are usually running at about 3 tpi. I tried the 5/8" blade that came with the saw for re-saw and wasn't really impressed with the results. Try something like this. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/saw-blades/band-saw/111150-blades-for-rikon-14-inch-deluxe-bandsaw?item=03J5707 I also have to ask if you are using the stock fence or the re-saw fence that the saw comes equipped with. I actually prefer to use the stock fence and adjust for drift with the fence adjustment on the fence carriage. The other thing that I will point out is that while cedar is a soft wood and should be easily cut, the sawdust that it creates during a re-saw operation is also very soft and the gullets of the blade will have a hard time clearing the dust from the kerf. This almost always results in smoking. Pine is another culprit of this problem and because of that, the feed rate has to be reduced way more than you would expect to compensate and allow the gullets to clear the dust out of the kerf of the blade. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in.

@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for the info, Kenny! What you said about the dust and the gullets makes alot of sense. I was using the stock fence and didn't try that round cylinder thing(Resaw fence?), they sent with the machine. I'll be ordering the blade you suggested PDQ. Unless I missed it in the video(and I might have, I'm old), you don't seemed concerned about how the blade is tracking on the lower wheel. My top wheel has the blade in the middle but on the bottom wheel it's off to one side slightly. There are videos on how to adjust the lower wheel, but it looks like I'd be opening up a can of worms. Did you run into this on your machine? Thanks again for the quick reply and great advice as usual! Cheers! Mark

@@markk4015 Depending on the blade, the lower wheel tracks differently. Some track dead centre and some slightly off but none of them track in any way that would concern me. Once you start adjusting the lower wheel, you can run into all kinds of problems and frustrations and if you are going to do that, be sure to pack your patience because it is a daunting task. Unless you are having issues with the upper and lower wheels being coplanar, I wouldn't suggest adjusting the lower wheel assembly at all.

@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks, Ken. Good advice and I'll heed it. Somethings are better left alone. I bought the blade you recommended and am awaiting delivery. Have you checked out this RU-vid video? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-N6_2h-vo0jA.html. A guy makes a circle cutting jig for a bandsaw that I thought was brilliant. If the link doesn't work it's from Inspire Woodcraft. I'll be making one with a few tweaks and let you know how it works out if you're interested. Thanks again for all your help! Mark

@@markk4015 I made a couple of circle cutting jigs on the show a while back. Here is a link if you'd like to see a different take on it as this one was built specifically for the Rikon band saw. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WXCpvnFrccw.html

First off, thanks for tuning in to the show David and for taking the time to leave your comments. It's strange that the top is centred but not the bottom. The bottom wheel should not be adjusted unless under extreme circumstances. I am assuming that the blade is running at the rear of the lower wheel. Something definitely doesn't sound right though. Have you checked to make sure that the upper and lower wheel are coplanar? If the wheels are not coplanar and the blades are not running centred on the lower wheel then you may have to adjust your lower wheel's position. It's a pain in the next and can be tedious but if you take your time and go step by step, you should be able to adjust everything so that it is centred on both wheels. One cause of your problem is also using a cheaply made blade so I would check that before adjusting anything in the lower half of the cabinet. If you try a new (higher quality) blade and the problem still exists, you will find how to adjust the coplanar properties of your lower wheel on page 27 of your user's manual. I hope this helps. Let me know how it goes.

While it would be nice to have someone run the camera for me, unfortunately I'm a one man show. I do the work, the camera work, the editing, the posting and answering all the questions and comments from viewers. I'd love to have a camera operator because then I could just concentrate on working but that just isn't going to happen. I'm glad that you liked the video. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave your comment. It's very much appreciated.

Not a rookie question at all Mike. The reason I have this channel is to answer those kinds of questions. The tension was not discussed in this video because the issue that people were having, was converting from a larger blade to a much smaller one. So the demonstration was made on how to do it. The talk about tension and how to set the tension was mentioned and demonstrated in the Rikon 10-326 setup video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-noA-G1CSBc8.html If you don't feel like watching the whole video, you can skip through to the 16:00 minute mark and start watching from there. I talk about the tension lever, the adjustment and how to tell if your blade is tight enough. I hope this helps Mike. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to ask your question.

I definitely did not mention tracking the lower wheel Eric. Tracking should only need to be done on the upper wheel. If you need to get into tracking the lower wheel, that is a complete tutorial on its own and is something that should be avoided if possible. All bandsaw's tracking is adjustable on the lower wheel but the geometry of it is complicated. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

kennyearrings1 understand. I find this is a problem point for this bandsaw. The other element you might consider in any future follow-up is blade tensioning. Clearly different between a thin and wide blade.

@@ericmoorehead1100 I covered blade tensioning in the setup video for this saw. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-noA-G1CSBc8.html The blade change video came about when people were having trouble adjusting their guide bearings and thrust bearing when changing from a larger blade to a smaller blade. Just my opinion, but I don't think that the lower wheel should ever be messed with. The upper wheel can always be adjusted to compensate for any misaligned tracking of the lower wheel. Again, just my opinion.

kennyearrings1 thank you. I agree with you regarding lower wheel. It is a source of pain for me right now. It really shows up when cutting taller bandsaw boxes and similar items. I look forward to future videos from you.

I guess they got enough complaints that they fixed that design flaw in the 10-326 Model Jeff. Good luck on your quest for a good saw that you like. I hope you are able to find one soon. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to chime in with your experience.

You make a good point Robert but to be honest, I've never seen a band saw blade break, where it followed a specific path to exit the saw. It pretty much shot out in whatever direction it felt like and it didn't matter where you stood. Either way, there is nothing wrong with standing off to the left if that makes you feel more comfortable using the saw. After all, part of being safe is being comfortable. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your safety advice. It is truly appreciated.

Glad to hear that your unit doesn't stick Scott. Giving it a few taps will guarantee that it fully seats. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your experience with the saw.

Perhaps I will have to produce a show demonstrating the proper tensions. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your comment.

@@acutabove_woodworkings Aside from the hammer trick the Rikon looked to be perhaps the best saw on the market.So I ordered one on 4/9/22. BTW I saw no video of any one doing a lower pulley alignment as you have. Very helpful information for future use. Yes PLEASE do a blade tension video-Thanks.

@@mikemcc5149 I will add it to the list of shows for production.

If that's the method that works for you Alan, then by all means use it. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your suggestion. It is very much appreciated.

I like to adjust my blade tension so that there is only about 1/4" inch of deflection when I push the blade sideways after tensions. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in.

I hope you were able to take something positive away from the show. Thanks for tuning in.