In a Kegland video for the RoboBrew/Brewzilla, the guy used the chiller outside of the kettle. He placed the chiller in a cooler of ice water then used the Brewzilla pump to send wort out of the ball valve, through the iced chiller, then back into the top of the kettle to both shorten the cool down time and to eliminate the need for a water source and water waste.
Thank you for the video David! Very much appreciated indeed. The more I watch these videos, the more I see the Grainfather emerging as the most complete system out there. I’m yet to make the jump, but I’m 90% towards the GF.
Nice overview! Glad you covered the ramp up between temps using the controller. First time I used the new controller I was under the impression that it would not start the timer until it reached the set point. NOT the case. Cheers David! 👍🍻
Thanks Brian, yes I think it is vital to make people aware of this! It seems most just mash on the fly with it but I personally go manual then auto for the timer. Fast and easy to set up.
Hi David Another great and informative video. I used my Brewzilla for the first time yesterday and discovered that the 3.1.1 version now has two auto programs. You can set it to either start the timer and heater at the same time or force the system to wait until the desired temperature is reached and then start the timer. So no more ramping up calculations required. My thoughts on the brewzilla are that for the most part it is well constructed, however some components such as the filter and drain pipe are on the flimsy side and bend too easily. I suspect most people would be prepared to pay a little more for thicker materials. Apart from this issue I am happy with the functionality of the brewzilla and thank you for your many reviews on comparable systems. Thanks
Great to hear. Yes 3.1.1 is a nice improvement. I agree that certain aspects of the accessories could be thicker materials. Having said that, ive not had any issues with them so far. It works well.
Thanks for the review as always, which I read before buying the system in March. I note your tip on not trusting the onboard thermometer when cooling. I also found it very inaccurate when mashing, i.e. below 65 degrees it reads over by around 10 to 20 degrees. Simple answer is to use the system manually and use a cheap external bbq thermometer. I also found that mashing with max water volumes (25l) plus rice hulls stops any sticking. I have had 6 months of great brews from a dirt cheap system, thanks to trusting your test!
Great. Ive not found mine to be inaccurate when mashing. Are you measuring in the area of the probe? Naturally the water temp will be different the further up you get. There is always temp calibration.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi David. The temperature "error" I refer to is a difference between the machine's temp reading from its probe at the bottom of the mash tun vs my probe's reading at the top of the mash. When the 1900w element is on during ramp up, this temperature difference is 20 degrees, i.e. the system reads 70 C when my probe reads 50 C. I thought this might be mash vs liquid difference but when I measure the liquid coming through the pump from the bottom of the system it still only reads 50 degrees, the same as my mash. Strangely the problem disappears when I turn off the main heater and use only the secondary heater. I see the system temp falling from 80 degrees to 65 while my probe stays constant. As you see, you can't calibrate this away, sadly. If I could find the right probe I would replace the bottom of system temp probe with something in the mash itself, but in the meantime I just set the system on max until I hit my mash temp according to my bbq probe then adjust from there. I must say that the mash efficiency is good, around 72%, which is almost as good as I get on my Braumeister 20l (4 times the price).
Another great video David. I've just purchased a 65L Brewzilla and can report it's a significant step up in terms of robustness compared to my old 35L Robobrew (which is about on par with the Guten). I reckon it even feels a bit more robust than the Grainfather, which a good friend of mine owns. It doesn't have the snazzy Connect - but I'm old fashioned and prefer brewing manually anyway. In terms of value for money, I reckon it's a category killer. I would love to see you do video on the 65L model some day, but appreciate that takes time and money. I'm also looking forward to seeing a brew day on your new Brewtools rig. Talk anout drool worthy, holy crap! In terms of quality, that looks like it's the category killer, but sadly my wallet isn't fat enough to accomodate one. At least not yet... I also enjoyed your mention of Brewfather. I've been using this for about 6 months now and think it leaves Brewsmith in its dust. The tech support from@Brewfather is absolutely superb - every question I've asked has been answered within 24 hours.
It's also worth mentioning that once boil is achieved only the 1900w is needed to maintain boil. Having both elements on causes massive boil off. Also get the robo jack or make ur own insulation on the system to decrease temp ramp up times.
Hi David. Thanks for making and sharing this great video. I like to brew 10l batches and recently ordered a 35l Robobrew even though it does not have small batch pipework and I am not 100% sure I can use this unit for my 10l batches, however, I am probably around 80% certain I will be able to find a way to achieve this. I have read conflicting things online saying you can brew small batches with no problems and then other information saying the opposite. My plan 'A' when I receive my Robobrew (currently on order) is to try a full volume mash for one of my small batches and a plan 'B' if I do not get a satisfactory result I guess would be to see if I can get the GF small batch pipework to fit the Robobrew. Full volume mashing has the added appeal of shortening and simplifying my brew day which combined with 30 minute boils which I am very interested in for the same reason could potentially revolutionise my brew days. The reason I am inclined towards small batches and simple, short brew days is ironically so that I can do more brewing not less! I wondered if you had any thoughts on full volume mashing in the Robobrew or experience of using the GF small batch pipework in the Robobrew yet? Thank you again.
Great videos! I purchased the Brewzilla 65l and did a 5 gallon batch yesterday. The recipe called for 15 qts. of strike water. That amount barely reached the bottom of the malt pipe. The Brewzilla is advertised as a 5 and 10 gallon system but it seems better for 10. I had to add more strike water to mash in. Not sure if that's a problem.
Hi John. You will need to suit the water volumes of your recipe to your brewing system. Brewfather has support for the Brewzilla. Which brewing software are you using?
Hi David - Your youtube resources have been invaluable to me as I am rediscovering homebrewing after a frivolous distraction in career development and family building that somehow managed to persist since about 2001. So thanks! As a new robobrew owner a couple of questions occur to me: 1. Should I attempt to make things more complicated by programming a higher initial mash water temperature so that the addition of room temperature grains causes equilibrium of mash temperature at the intended target or is this unnecessarily complicated since the unit will quickly detect and correct the dip upon adding the grain 2. I notice that you advocate a jug for sparging a bit at a time - what if I opt to use my method from before I bought the robobrew - basically an elevated source of hot water and doing a fly sparge maintaining the same rate of water in versus rinsed wort out? Thanks again from Toronto Canada
Hi Linda, great to hear that you are returning to homebrewing. Here are some answers:- 1) I know that some do this in lower voltage countries due to the time it takes to heat things back up. It does not seem like a bad idea to me , though how much extra you will need to add is a tough one for me to advise on as all my experience has been with either 240v or 230v. 2) Yes I personally see more favourable and predictable results this way. I would suggest trying both methods and see what you think at the end. I think its important to try different methods for yourself and make the process your own around what works best for you. Hope this helps :)
Thanks David for another great video. The Brewzilla is interesting as it comes in a larger size than Grainfather, but I have some concerns about it. The controller sits at the bottom and don't have the Bluetooth connection as Grainfather have. Putting it on a chair also for using the tap sounds like a solution, but then you have difficulties in lifting the grain basket. Specially on the larger system, it would be very heavy. Some pros and cons and more cons at this moment, so if you get the chance to try out the 65 liter system I really would like to see that video. All the best
Thats Stefan. Yup, plenty of pros and cons here for sure. Only the individual can make their own choice. Check out my GF vs RB comparison for more on this if you have not already.
Thanks. You don't mention emptying the vessel and I assuming that is done via the Tap/Valve I can see in the pictures. That does mean that the device must be either placed high enough to get a container underneath or a separate pump.
Hi David, big fan of your videos here. I have a question, are you supposed to have the pump on for the whole mash process? A fellow brewer mentioned he recirculates just before lathering (in another system) to avoid tannin extraction. On the other hand I read in a forum that the recirculation ensures that all the grain is at the same temperature during mashing.
Thanks Morris great to hear. Yes, there really is not need to do this at all. Also, with todays super modified malt tannin extraction is even more protected against than ever.
Regarding creating a whirlpool and submerging the chiller in boiling water: what is the best way to do this? Do you first submerge the chiller in boiling water to sanitize, remove and then whirlpool, or should you whirlpool boiling water and then submerge the chiller? If the latter, how long do you wait after creating the whirlpool to submerge the chiller?
Hi Travis, it is easier to clean the spiral then submerge it in boiling wort for 5 mins then put it in a clean and sanitary container while you whirlpool before adding it back.
I had problems draining into fermenter. The filter would clog up and tap would barely flow,just a drip.I supose this is the unwanted proteins cloging the filter. I have seen people using the pump to evacuate the machine but this is obviously wrong. I think I can replace the gauze filter on the tap for a much bigger one. That should help. Is there a reson why I had so much thick protein? I just scooped the clear wort out with a jug until I got to the thick cloudy stuff. I was aiming for 5 gals,gat 3.5. Ok I suppose
When you say the mash volume is 3l x grain bill in kg, do you not have to add the dead space of 3.5l ? so for a 5 kg grain bill 3x5+3=18l. I find it too thick with the 3 x ?kg and cant dough in without recirculating slightly. I tend to use the 2.7l x ?kg +3.5l method as the 2.7xkg was what I used in the old ice box mash tun days + the aprox dead space under the malt pipe (although i think its more like 5.4l to the bottom of the pipe). I'm not sure that while its recirculating during mashing if you are supposed to have an air gap between the bottom of the malt pipe and the wort reservoir below. I find that the Robobrew info is very vague and can find a hundred sources of info on the web..all different! Love the videos! very informative.
Thanks Phil. The equation is correct but it will need some adjustments to suit all due to the variables involved. Are you using Brewfather? The profiles there work well for most.
I never quite understand how to mash in Robobrew. In a standard mash it sits in the liquor you then re-circ through false bottom or such until clear and then sparge...In the robobrew when you mash and circulate, are you trying to get the water circulating through the mash basket (so you would want a void between the bottom of the basket equal to the water you have on top and overflowing), or is just sat in a big tub of wort and some would travel through the grain basket. It would not really want to travel through the grain bed if this was the case it would be just sat in it and some would percolate through. If it was the former that would make the strike water calc very import. I only say as my extract efficiency reduces the more strike water I use for a fixed amount of grain. I find its better to have a very thick mash before i put the top screen on and start to circulate..What is your experience? great vids by the way.
The method of mashing is essentially recirculation through the grainbed and yes for this reason the water volumes are important. I use Brewfather to make these water calculations and I have not had any issues. This method is very similar to other all in one systems out there and I guess you could call it recirculated BIAB.
Hi David, just wondering how you would transfer to the FV? The pump outlet seems to be on the bottom so would this mean all the hop and malt debris post boil are going in the fermentor? Is it better to attach whirlpool arm and use spigot? Cheers, keep up the good work!
It depends on how you use it. If, like me, you use a counter flow chiller then you will exit your wort from the CFC. There is a tap at the bottom also for easy exit and it has a barb so that you can attach a hose.
Hello! Thank you very much for the great video! I am thinking about using the brewzilla 35 L with a hop spider. What is the maximum length of the spider I could use with the brewzilla 35 L?
Hi Max, I really do not see the need for a hop spider within the Brewzilla. This system has a false bottom which negates the need. I do not use them myself for hops within any brew system, false bottom or not. A simple whirlpool is enough and does not require the 10% compensation needed due losses either. They are handy for candi sugar though or similar.
Hi, David. This may be a bit of daft question but how do we account for the dead volume in the robobrew? Simply add on the dead volume on top of the stated mash water in a recipe? Or does the Grainfather calculator account for dead volume? Cheers!
If you are using these calcs then it is already in place. Also within Brewfather. Sorry for the late reply, YT has some errors with message reporting recently so I only just got to see this!
While chilling your beer with included chiller do you run the pump? Also what is the best way to transfer wort into the fermentor? Can I use the valve or the pump on the brewzilla?
Yes you can run the pump directly into the fermenter after cooling. You can also use the bottom tap. I prefer pumping out as the height is more causing more of a splash into the fermenter which is useful for creating the right environment for your yeast.
Ok thanks. I was concerned that extra sediment and residual hops would not be ideal. I have been adding my hops to the boil in a Muslim bag. Most videos I have seen show the hop pellets being added directly to the wort. If I add the hops direct will the bottom screen of the brewzilla stop the hops from hitting the pump? Or do they go through and settle out in the fermentor?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew i buy it online in bulk so don't crush it myself. i just add more grain for better gravity. its just something i have to live with. thanks for the info.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Many thanks David. I'm due to help a friend on his Robobrew at the end of the month and I'm getting up to speed. Normally I brew at 800 L...
@David Heath. A quick question. When I try to whirlpool the bottom plate lifts and all the hops and trub go the bottom of the unit ..... What sould I do?
Hi Nicholas, you could add the mash basket in the late boil without the bottom. This will reduce the bottom plate movement but so will stirring less deeply also. I hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew there is dead space under the brewzilla's false bottom. I have the system, and appears if you dont account for the water loss in the mash, you are going to have a thick mash and will need to add water regardless. I am going to be brewing on this for the first time soon, and I dont know how much water it takes to account for the dead space but ill know very soon.
@@brentbean2792 Yes there is a dead space but this is accounted for in the information that I have provided. The majority of users simply use the GF calcs and have no issues. Ive had the same experience.
@@brentbean2792 Yes and for many this will work without issues. For some though you will need to figure out an adjustment. This is the same for GF and Robobrew users alike. This is due to the variation in temperature, humidity, boil off and different grains water absorption. I cover this topic in more detail in this video:- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vBjD124jkIo.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Beautiful, thanks for confirming it David. I'm doing your Citra smash APA today but with Simcoe and Munich malt instead. I'm looking for a good piney aroma and more colour, do you think this combo will work out well? Cheers
David, do you know where to buy Brewzilla 65L in Europe? Brewkegtap.co.uk has only 35L version. Buying it from outside eu is not economical due custom and high shipping charges.
Thank you. Yes no problems with getting a consistent efficiency using the all in one system style of mashing and done the right way you can get some surprisingly high levels of efficiency also.
Hello David, thanks for the video. I bought my brewzilla last week and i have a question... Why i need preheat the mash water over almost 8 hours..... This don t mak sense for me.........For example: i wanna make a beer 9 am..ok...then i will put and prepare the mash water around 8 am and wait to start the mash 9 am....Can you help me please, it s my first time! Thanks again.
Great, thank you. That was just an example, so you could start with the morning with the right temp. So if you get up at 9am set the timer for 8am for example or a bit later depending on how large your volume is.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you so much David! Next sunday i will brew my first beer!!! A Rye Stout...I m very exicited, looks a new world!!! lol. Peace!
Hi David, how have you found the bottom filter plate on the robobrew when doing a whirlpool. Even doing a whirlpool with the paddle you can feel the filter plate lifting and getting throne around. Causing possible and sometimes pump blockages
I have not had this issue. Key to this process though is how much of the paddle you submerge into the brewing system. I use the GF paddle and just put the head in. Speed wise I go as fast as I can without making a mess. It does the job :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I have the gen 2 robobrew it might have a thinner lighter filter,even with the spiral chiller in it still floats around . I'll have to check out the new model. Thanks mate.
I use the 3.0 and even with the tip of my whirlpool paddle attachment at that speed my bottom filter goes flying. I don't whirlpool anymore because of this and just let trub settle on plate and drain. Seems to be fine. Whirfloc tab help.
Will you also test the big one at some point? I don't have any intention of changing out my grainfather but it would be interesting to see how big it is and how that affects the brew process.
If you are in a country with low voltage like the US then yes. If not then the time to rebalance the temperature loss is of no consequence. For example I am using 230v. During mash in the system will start reheating to build up to the loss. Usually by the end of doughing in this has been corrected or is very close.
Hi David, thanks for the video, I'm a bit confused re the pre heat though, why is it necessary to set the 1st step to 21 oC over 6 hours? Thanks again.
The 6 hour room temperature step is there simply so that the system "does nothing" for 6 hours. The point there was to have it ready for brewing 8 hours later (set it up in the morning so it's ready to brew when you get home from work), and it would be a waste of energy to heat it directly to 65°C and keep it there all that time. So instead just keep room temp for six hours and then heat it up over the last two hours.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you. I had my first batch yesterday with the Brewzilla and of all time actually. I had som issues keeping a even boiling temperature. 99 celcius to little and hh too much. I tried with both heating elements on at the same time and both separatly. Could brewing in the garage in 15 celcius have an impact?
Temperature outside will have an effect on any brewing system. Try getting an insulation jacket :) The other thing to look at is your elevation. Check that 100 is your boiling point. Hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I used the insulation jacket from Robobrew. With my elevation close to Hamar it says 99,5 is my boiling point. Would be interesting as my next brew will be when it's hotter outside.
