The best of no worlds. Not as stiff taking a turn on the road so the Jeep leans more. But it is a smidge more stable off road & that's a fair trade off for me.
The JKS sway bar quick disconnect’s or any other aftermarket brands are still the way to go. Might be only a little over an inch 🤏 but in terms of off-roading that is still more flex. This has more potential to bend, strip or break a component on this setup and manufacture design, to many parts. So basically an overpriced front end decoration piece like any after market front steering stabilizer shock. But as always GREAT Video 👍
@@KTMcaptain I've used the Evo product on past jeeps and it works great but my next "fix" will be the antirock simply because I'm not to old to get down and turn a knob I'm to old to get back up lol
@@teddonley9594 you should check out the TTO pneumatic rubicon sway bar actuator then. It is faster, stronger, and more reliable than the oem actuator. The anti rock is worst of both worlds. It limits flex, slightly, but doesn’t do much for limiting body roll since it lacks the torsional rigidity to resist flex. To each their own though. You can sell your Rubi bar for the price of that anti rock.
@@teddonley9594 EVO also builds a pneumatic actuator for the Rubicon Electric Sway Bar: www.northridge4x4.com/part/disconnects/1152-evo-no-limits-on-demand-sway-bar-disconnect
If it's nearly the same amount of flex as a disconnected one, then why not just run without a sway bar? Clearly this one doesn't do much in the way of generating spring force to correct body roll.
@@northridgenation it’s a direct function. If it barely resists the unloaded axle moving then it will barely resist the body. It’s physics. I drove around for years without a sway bar. Especially when a vehicle becomes loaded up on the roof with RTT and other gear. Unless it has some system like KDSS which disengages part of the bar when the front wheel articulates and the rear doesn’t it will always work proportionally to it’s torsional force. It’s simply a very weak torsion rod. . Now, have they made it where you slide the end link mounts up and down that arm… then you can have a strong bar on the road and a loose one off road… then it could be fine. . But you can’t say it can handle a 5000 lbs load at 60mph when a single spring and some axle weight can flop it over. That’s far too much kinetic energy and far too little force it generates.
Ive got the jks quick disconnects, you have to cut a piece off to make them work on the passenger side, if i was to order the antirock will it still work with that piece cutoff?
This video didn't explain or show the hardest part of the install which is how to determine the sway bar link size and how to determine the angle of the sway bar arms. They aren't bad to put on but the way he installed that didn't look right at all.
Either one is pretty good. The Apex will be act like stock when locked in on the street. The Anti-Rock will be have a little more body roll on the street.
We haven't tried that combo, so we can't say for sure. But we're going to guess that if you're having issue with a stock bar, this will be about the same.
@@northridgenation the stock sway bar doesn't rub. I was wondering if the antirock forged arm follows the same bend line as stock and in general doesn't sit wider than stock sway bar at the end links?
It's has more body roll than stock, but it's not bad. Guess it will really depend on your personal tastes. If you think the stock sway bar isn't stiff enough, then this will definitely be too soft.
