Nice! I have an issue with one I just bought, and was relieved at the start when you said it's a wire... but later showed the wire was a track. Wish me luck... I haven't touched a soldering iron in 20 years lol
I used to have an Axxe, a Mk II. It came to me with the top A key damaged (which I ascertained was to do with the safety hazard caused by the protruding keys). When I had a thing repaired, somebody forgot to properly connect the voltage control to that key, resulting in it only sounding the previous note played. What kind of fix would have taken care of this outcome?
IU love all your repair video's. No pretenses, simple tools (You work on just an old plank or use a simple household pan, like in this video) and still great Results!
One of my favourite synths of all time. My first synth. Seriously what i was looking for back in 1998. Industrial acid vibes. Any, its always been off colour. Not grey but a more combat green. Ive seen before somewhere someone using hair remover or a type of bleach for hair. One of the two anyway. Do you recommend? I'm going to try your method, btw thanks for your video! Im sure the bleach nethod was with a tr 606 and a 707. Thanks ;)
I am concerned with reapplying the plastic strip that holds the keys in place. I’m guessing it’s not going to just stick back on that old glue strip once it’s been pulled off. What’s the trick?
Hey there, really useful video - must say I have to try this myself some day as mine hasnt seen any sort of cleanup apart from the occasional vacuum. At the moment, there are a couple of other issues that concern me more, perhaps you could shed some light on this: The resonance is faulty and doesn't seem to respond or at least only 10-20% of what it used to. Also arpeggiator is acting weird not playing notes at full level whereas the sequencer seems to work for now. Thanks in advance and keep those tips coming!
+RubiaKr3w I've looked at the circuit and there shouldn't be any difference between the Arpeggiator, Sequencer and Keyboard because the CPU handles all three the same way. So I don't know what to do about that one (unless the CPU is faulty). With the resonance you are going to have to troubleshoot a bit, starting with the slider, working back through TR26/27 and lastly the IR3109 filter chip. The slider is the most likely fault and then the feedback circuit (resonance is just the filter feeding back on itself). Hope it's not the IR3109!
Is there a modification which could be made which would preempt the defect mentioned at 4:00? To prevent dirt and debris from touching the exposed circuits?
Have you ever had any issues with the LFO MOD BENDER? The VCO and VCF seem to work just fine. I've done a little research and it may be a problem with button/membrane that is activated when the bender is pushed forward. Any ideas? Thanks.
if you still have this problem, it is common that the casing of the mod/pitch stick will crack. (the black housing underneath) sometimes its fixable with good 'superglue' and sometimes you'll need to replace it. I think syntaur may have some in stock?
+atommachine I'd replace the switch, they are prone to fail. They are available from Syntaur from memory. One of my mates ended up just pulling the switch out or fixing it permanently on or something like that. If the voltage varies for any reason the oscillator pitch will vary, it's the same on all synths with VCO's. So you are probably slightly cutting the incoming voltage when you press on the switch.
+GOLT !I happen to own a Roland SH 1000, which recently lost one of it's presets the piano, or rather it became really faint and still is rather faint. Also my tuning started to fail from one octave to another. The tuning on the back does work however only within the octave it's really off. Do you have any idea what the problems might be. Any help would be greatly appreciated as in the netherlands, no tech support is available for these vintage synths. It would crush me if I would not be able to use it again.
My SH-101 plays fine for about 30 minutes and then it just emits this awful distorted mess of a noise until I turn it off. You can slightly here it playing notes underneath the noise if I try to continue using it but its basically just a horrible distorted clipping which is unbearable to listen to. Anyone know what it is? Was guessing it may be overheating as it plays fine again for about 20-30 mins if I try another day.
Great video mate. Out of curiosity, what is in the glass to clean your keys - hydrogen peroxide and ? Being in Australia - I haven't been able to replicate the RetroBright ingredients. I'm going to clean up an old ESQ-1 and a Commodore 64 once I work out a good solution :)
I don't think I used any in this video, I just wiped the keys with wet cloth. But I do brighten up plastic parts all the time. I just use 6% Hydrogen Peroxide from the chemist. The stronger the solution and the stronger the UV light, the quicker it works. I know some guys that only use 20% H2O2 but they are a lot further away from the equator than us. So 6% is fine. You do need a sunny day though.
+Martin Pescador The rubber strip that holds the contactors in place, rubs off the solder mask on top of the tracks. The copper in the tracks then rusts and the connection fails. It's bad placement of the tracks. If they routed the tracks around the outside of the rubber strip then it wouldn't happen. But they didn't have much room on that board.
