The resonance slider is usually the most used pot on a synth so it would have had the most wear and strain over the 30 or so years. It could be cool to swap your pencil repair (cool job!) with a least used fader like the 'noise' or 'sub' if they are also 100ohm. Great video Markus .. Great tips as always!
I am absolutely in love with your channel Markus! I am completely worthless when it comes to repairing synths but I am feeling somewhat educated after watching any of your videos. This is what I was looking for all along. Very entertaining AND relaxing. Great vibes! Thank you.
+markusfuller My guitar pedal just stopped working for no reason. Signal goes thru when bypassed but not when engaged. Everything lights up as normal and I've tested all the chords. Any ideas?
Oh I could not say. I would be tempted to get inside with a multimeter and make sure everything is receiving the correct power then check the bypass switch to see if it is indeed diverting the signal through the circuit.
Thanks for the really nice tip with the pencil :-) FYI, to repair flexible PCBs I use a nickel conductive pen (from Chemtronics) but the bad thing is that sometime this pen dries to quickly and becomes unusable after a few months. And I also use the same technic to put back the screws ;-)
when screwing metal screws into plastic sockets,THIS is important: always screw counter-clockwise to "seat" the screw in the threads already there!!! if not you will create another set of threads that will diminish the structural integrity of the plastic. this is a must if you will screw/unscrew several times.
Another fine video with great advice. I've also had to repair the power supply plug a few of times on my casio CZ-101 (Perhaps it's a 101 thing :p) & have lost count how many times I've ran a 4B pencil down the tracks inside an 80's graphic EQ to reduce crackle. Great advice, as these top-tips work every time and has extended the life manyfold. As well as conducting electricity, graphite is fantastic lubrication & 30 year old solder is a well known cure for a cold ;)
You would think that there would be a product out there longer lasting than a pencil. What a great trick, the pencil is . I wish you lived in montreal. We could use a guy like you.
well..sometimes the trace actually cracks and you can scrape down the surface insulation and tin it then lay a wire across to the power jack..or jack is busted... I just spray deoxit and work it a bunch of times for oxidation/dirt. Lots of times commonly used sliders just wear out. Some functions have high tolerance to variations, some do not. Eg. on a juno the sliders are mostly encoders basically that sweep between + and - volt source. So as long as they are about a few K they'll likely work. And yup 120 some k is usually a decent slider in leu of 100K :-) I use dielectric grease to make it so wear is minimized etc.
Amazing thanks for your videos they are so educational and entertaining I wish you would have been on TV decades ago on sunday mornings here in Canada instead of those renovation and yard shows! Cheers
On the topic of desoldering: I once tried to desolder a faulty olimexino 85. I had put the things on the wrong side of the board... the board had too small holes for me to be able to actually get the solder out. "good thing you didn't have to lose the processor". Too bad it's so cheap that the postage would cost twice the material cost ( or something like that ). Anyhow, it would be nice to see different microcontrollers being part of a synth voltage controller setup, with home made codes, gui (even the most simple gui), and "keyboard". But I have this one problem: I no longer think that voltage does what it says on the tin. I just fear that I will harm my computer or instruments, so I simply do not dare. There's a saying... "friskt kopplat hälften brunnet"... and it basically means that "go ahead and do what ever you want to do, as well as you expect to fail..."
+fkthewhat Many thanks, I'm learning as I go along. I sometimes make the video then make notes on what to do or not on the next. I sometimes watch my early video's and see all the mistakes i make with camera work and editing and its like a diary to me of my learning curve.
Bloody brilliant video Markus! I really enjoyed watching this. I'll have a look in my DIY electronic boxes. I might have a pot just like it. I'll tell you if I find it. =D
Hi there, What about using a conductive compound let's say that one which is used for fixing silicon rubber key contact? BTW, I recently faced an issue with degrading keys on my CASIO PX-3 keyboard. After having no luck with getting brand new spare parts for that at reasonable cost I eventually made up my mind to fix it on my own. Although I could fix the faulty keybed by myself first I didn't want to deal with any temporarily solution cause I did really believe that it's all about rubber pads are worn. But in fact it turned out to be just loss of conductivity of PCB pads which are coated with some sort of graphite compound. Thorough cleanup with IPS didn't bear any fruit so I went with the "key pad fix" from above and so far so good! I have to say that job was a quite delicate thing to do so I used an artist paint brush of "000" grit to lay the compound on then removed all the unwanted material with a sewing needle.
I really enjoy your videos. If you have a chance, could you show how to repair the pitch bend of the SH-101 or similar style machine. Mine is not working properly and would like to fix it.
+Michael Bauers Im sure something will turn up one day as there seems to be a return to analog happening at the moment. Im interested to see what the NAMM 2016 show will show us next week. but the ARP was remade by Korg so I think Roland could do an analog SH-101 remake
+Luis Suarez one thing I have done in the past is place wax on the screw insert it then put glue around the post where it is cracked and slip over a piece of heatshrink tubing then when it is set take out the screw and hopefully it works for a while. though to be honest it is not always succesfull
Hi I use to work in electronics for a living but these synth repairs are just for the youtube community. and I have many synths and make music myself as a hobby also. :-)
+markusfuller yeah Markus, i understand, all whats with graphite contacts... ;) so but its only for footbridge until to real repair of the parts i think. you vid's allways best and very good to understand :) there are a lot of in my favorites now, :D
+Terry marsden ThankYou Terry. Sorry it took me so long to make one. as you may hear in my voice I have a bad cold for about a week. Now im all ready for the snow and cold weather :-)
Hey marcus, I have Roland rs09 the keys A, D# and F# on All octaves suddenly dead. Can you help me on how to fix it. I suspect not dirty contact since it happens suddenly and it's happening specifically on all octaves,thanks!
Hi Markus Your Videos are always very entertaining and interesting! I have a little question concerning your future videos: Do you think you can do some sort of introduction-video where you share your knowledge about soldering, its basics and the general tricks? Kind regards from Switzerland :)
I wish I could get Markus to look at my Virus Indigo. Everytime I move the modwheel, it freezes the synth and I have to re-power it on and off for it to start working again. Annoying if you nudge it after working on a patch for half an hour.
Yeah, someone suggested to me updating the firmware, I ended up selling it in the end though. I think I'm going to get the Blofeld or maybe pay out big and get the Polar TI next.
Hi, your videos are very helpful. I have a question about the the action on my sh1000. holding a note and the pressing a note down works then release back to the original note. if i try to note up i get nothing.
Great video, again! Quick question, what temperature do you set your soldering iron to desolder a part? I've never removed anything with a solder sucker easily :)
+Elsif Hi Elsif. I was using a cheap Antex all in one iron with no temperature control. I think it is 240v about 15 watts though I have no idea what temperature it is working on.
***** markusfuller Thanks, guys. Sounds like the temperature isn't as important as i would have guessed. I always have the tip temp set to 650 to 700 faranheit, so I guess it's just down to something I have to practice a bit more.
Hi I know it was some time ago you posted this video, do you have a link to the faderpot for this synth as I'm replacing the triangle pot on a SH 101. thanks for any help.
Hi Dominic. I wish I did get them for free. but I have to buy them myself or swop and change with other people or buy broken and repair them. I dont keep them all though as i have to sell some off to buy others.
Cool video bud, do you know about the extra wave form on the oscillator, That roland never implemented, all it need's is to be wired up and a switch put onto the panel, to get it to work, check this video out for the mod,Synthesiser Dave - Episode 1 - Roland SH101
SUBHUMAN .COM USA oh you mean the sawtooth option on the chip, yes you need to change the 2 way switch to a 3 way and connect up the digital waveform chip though I have never actually done one of these mods myself. Im sure the info is on google somewhere.
Glascott Symes Hello to be honest swithcleaner is only a temporary fix as it can dissolve the lubricant inside the pots. to do a real clean that will last for years see Synthesizer Keiths video called Potentiometer Cleaning Showdown.
How can I contact you? I just got a SH-101 that works but its got some kind of crud or mold in between the faders,inside the DC IN 9v-12v and also the RES fader in the VCF makes a really loud (unnatural) noise or static.
+BobsCosmic Ripple Hi Bob, unfortunately I only make these video's up to try and share a little of what I know (and i certainly do not know everything) It also helps that people sometimes leave good comments and share a little info with others. I do work full time and only make these video's in my little bit of spare time so do not really have time to do repairs for people, a lot of items are my own or the odd one for a friend now and then but they wait weeks before i get around to things. there are a few facebook groups about keyboard repairs and I guess they can make answers for you or hopefully if someone reads this maybe they know your problem. I think a good start would be to try and clean out as much of this crud/mould as possible.
Thank you so much for getting back to me. If you ever have any spare time can you explain the wright kind of cleaning tools i might need? All of the faders have crud on the colored part of the faders ( orange, green, yellow) and also is the RES supposed too have a small static noise sometimes?
+markusfuller Will the color on the fader knobs fade if i use too much. (At the moment I barley see the orange,green, and yellow color on the knobs)Also the silver sequencer buttons have some kind of mold on them. Iam a newbie to this and did not know i was paying for a dirty SH-101.
Oh I thought you meant the mould was in the tracks of the faders I did not realise it was on the surface of the buttons. I would gently remove the buttons and wash in warm soapy water.
+Marcus Henrique Hello Marcus, The bender is just a couple of potentiometers and maybe they need a proper deep cleaning. Its a bit awkward to get inside the actual pots but Im just guessing that would be the first thing I would try.
Im not sure where I would be looking next. I do not have one on my desk to compare. the one I had was a repair for a friend and that has gone back now. I cannot guess what could be wrong. have you checked all the other switched & pots to the left of the keyboard. also I would start to look for cracked circuit board tracks and even dry joints.
