nice well thought out build. Ive made similar doors as part of a heritage restoration but used dominos in the brace at glue up. I did my apprenticeship in NZ but most of my work has been overseas. watchng you, we Kiwis have a unique style. Ive had to change working when with UK heritage projects and museum furniture. Working and living in Japan has really changed my tool handling and timber jointing techniques.All the best to you
thanks, yea I'm sure our remoteness has bread its own mismatch of styles and techniques. I get a few comments saying I'm doing things wrong, my opinion is that different is not wrong when it works. I get that traditions are traditions for a reason. there should always be room for some innovation. cheers
Really impressive work Joey. I'd love to have some of those larger rosewood scraps that you were tossing out! And you're right, Gorilla glue gets a bad rap. I have used it many times for outdoor projects and bent laminations, and it has worked very well for me.
Beautiful. I need to make a replacement door for my barn. Winds ripped one down and half of it is out in the field. Getting inspiration from your videos 😉
Excellent quality work. Have a look at winbag or different make. Mine were marketed as window fitting wedges. They are a flat square shape bag that inflate by squeeze pump(like for blood pressure) mine will take 150kg each bag. Many uses but for fitting a door especially if by yourself they are amazing. U can adjust height in very small increments. I use 2 on bottom of door on each end to make life very easy and safe for me as I work alone. Keep up the great work
I almost dont watch long (>10 min) videos, with this channel as an exception, it's just fun and educating to watch. Anyway, i have the triton as well, it's a real workhorse!
I dig it. Won't those slats on the outside of the door expand significantly? IT would be great if you could do a video on compensating for expansion in door construction. Really enjoy your work and videos. God bless.
Nice looking doors and good video, thanks. Surprised only one comment (by BradPittlike) about the timber swelling / movement and seemingly no allowance for that. Magnificent red colour in the rosewood you split for making the 75mm rails / styles.
HI, yea was nice timber! - the tightness of the t&g was actually mainly due to the bottom rail being slightly proud making the tounge going into the style pretty tight at the bottom of the door. while the t&g was firm across the door it wasn't all as tight as it looked as I was bashing it in.
Hi mate. 3 years later, how have these held up? I’m thinking of making something similar but I worry about expansion with such a tight fit between the two doors. Would you do this differently if you were to do it again today?
I'm building interior sliding barn doors and I can see it would be easy to modify your design to fit my application. Thanks for the video, you do awesome work
Beautiful work. My mother has been wanting a couple doors about like these, but a little smaller, for her street-visible she's. I used to work in a door shop and I was thinking I would use one of their designs which has the vertical T&G paneling set in grooves within the rails and stiles, then thinner boards overlaid for the diagonal members. But that is a terrible design for exterior use as it would be very bad at shedding water (theirs were decorative doors for indoor use). I like your design better. I think I may copy it (in more economical lumber...) if you don't mind. :)
+KingPost TimberWorks well for a start we don't use much glue well the way I was taught any way you just seem more machine no afence thou buddy it's still a art in sure you can use your hands to buy I'm subscribed and like every video there is more but it's half 5 in the morning hear and need to get to work in half hour
would you do blind tennons with no glue? or like a hidden fox wedge type?. machines pay the bills, not to many clients are willing to pay for me to do heaps of hand tool work. I try where I can....
+KingPost TimberWorks yes we would tend to put little pins in with the gun but we use wedges to we use glue for that because that would be stupid not to and yes machines do pay the bills I'm sure you can use hand tools the clients that I work for are just rich and want them some by hand
Nice Job. I'm a Joiner and have made thousands of timber doors, casements etc. The braces are correctly done but I am just wondering why you didn't make the rail tenons go through the entire stiles and wedge and pin them? Also why not rebate the doors where they meet to weather proof them (no need for weather strips ever)?
HI , the doors were pretty much fully designed by my client who had done a bunch of research, after looking at it seemed like it would work fine. if the tennons go right through the stile that does leave the rail end grain exposed and can increase its moisture intake. I'm a fan of the weather strip when I can make it work as I don't end up with different sized (looking) stiles on the join. my client really wanted a even look so this worked well. cheers
Sorry but the client is wrong. The tenons should go through and be wedged and dowelled because all that is holding the doors together is the glue. When the glue fails so will the doors. External timber doors and windows have been made that way for over 100 years. These are the dowels used to fixed the tenons www.fastenright.com/general-fixings/star-dowels/ff25 and how doors are made www.builderbill-diy-help.com/paneled-doors.html
Love these videos but the braces are the wrong way, they’re supposed to be from the opening side back toward the hinge side to defer weight back to the hanging side .
@@KingPostTimberWorks Hi, I am based in Sydney and would like to build barn garage door. What wood would you recommend for the frame? Would it be Rosewood as well? Thank you
Cool doors and it looked like a fun build. Curious about cleaning the rosewood. I've never used it and did not know about the oil issue. Did you use just thinner or something like Naphtha? Thanks again for all the great videos.
HI, I just used non-brand lacquer thinner. I have never personally had an issue with gluing rosewood or teak for that matter. but there is evidence that particularly oily wood can effect the glue penetrating into the wood fibre. so if you can remove some of the surface oil right before glue up it should help. cheers
Just gorgeous! I do not know much about new zealand weather, but with the t&g panels going in so tight, do you have to worry about expansion and contraction?
HI, the Cedar will expand a bit with lots of direct water. the door on my workshop is oiled and expands just a hair in heavy rain. so I'm not too worried. time will tell though. cheers !
Enjoying watching a series of your videos. Always great work. I'm about to add to my clamp collection and wondering how you find those Irwin squeeze clamps? Enough hold under pressure vs parallel clamps or pipes?
Awesome set of doors . . . rosewood for barn-doors? How many musical instrument could one make with that wood? (ha) I relate all woods to musical instruments . . . You tucked in that groove and tongue pretty tightly, will there be any swelling?
+Rod MacKinnon so far so good. Although the top rail has shrunk away from the t&g a bit. I agree could have used the rose w/o rd for better things but. I had to ask several times when the client said that's what he wanted.
What is the name brand of the epoxy you where using? You guys seemed to be using the same glue board during your glue up and it appears the epoxy has a long open time. Please advise thank you.
Hi, I just finished a big barn door (97 inches x 104 inches) made from 4/4 torrified poplar boards glued with biscuits with a 4/4 with an x and a board horizontally across the middle. I hung it as the sliding outside door to the area under my house in Connecticut and in a few days it is warpingtoward the outside. I have some 5/4 Spanish cedar and was thinking of making horizontal braces and gluing and screwing them horizontally and hoping the door straightens rather than the braces warping....would you have any advice or ideas? Thanks Emmett Ryan
If sounds like you have glued all the boards together to form the main door panel? If this is so, it will want to bow as it's just too large a panel to stay flat on it's own let alone having different moisture/temperature levels on each side of the door. You can flatten this buy adding timbers as you say but this will also stop the large panel from being able to expand and contract with the varying seasons. This will cause the door to be under much more tension and eventually cracks and warping will occur. Doors in general should be made with a frame of quarter sawn timber (little to no movement) and the panels should be loose fitted into grooves of that frame. Or tounge and groove panels each with a small gap between them to allow each board to move separately. In short, All members of a door need to have some allowance for seasonal movement in some way. Any tension that is allowed to build up in the door will show as warping or twisting.
KingPost TimberWorks thanks so much...I guess I’ll put the braces on for now and start working on a door with a different design....live and learn...thanks for “straightening” me out...Emmett
I just built a new garage, but my wife nixxed me on the typical roll-up style door. I'm trying to figure out how to make a double swing barn style door. Cant have any track hardware on the bottom, so if anyone has any hardware ideas for a top track, I'd appreciate it.
HI , this is Indonesian rosewood, I believe Indian, brazilin, African rosewoods are all different species lumped under the "rosewood" name as they all are very similar . cheers
@@KingPostTimberWorks I'm delighted to hear that. But why? I'm not asking to be an internet troll/jerk, I'd genuinely like to understand. Based on my understanding of wood movement, I would have expected the cedar pieces to expand in width to the point of buckling or cracking the frame. I've tried a few such doors -- though none at this quality -- and had trouble with wood movement to varying degrees each time.
@@kevinCarbis so , i should have definitely left some expansion room on the paneling , i think its just good fortune that we were making this in the winter (very wet here) so the timbers were all a little bigger than they will be in the summer (mostly dry heat but some humidity) i have done things differently since , you can see on my Oak front doors vid a similar but different method. cheers
At last, someone who knows how to make doors. you see so many with the bracing all wrong. The only thing I would question is why not through wedged mortice and tenon joints.
Rosewood Barn doors sound like Ebony toilet seat for me.inconceivably! We would use Rosewood for Jewelry boxes and small woodturning items. other countries other manners.
Until a few years ago, in the U.S. we might use something like Ipe. But the cost of that has skyrocketed. It's also been overharvested, so I would probably just use something like cedar for the whole thing (or some high quality redwood - available in NorCal). Great video!
Hey Man quick question, I see you have an Ascent jointer! how would you rate it? I'm thinking of getting one from Jacks down in Christchurch, can't seem to find reviews on it. Cheers
