Wow! Congrats on your progress. Thank you for sharing the problems you had and how it was solved. Learning from each other is key to safe and fun flying.
@@dcavidflyer3073 Working on painting the spinner. Applied adhesive sealer from 3m called 1838 part A and part B. 1 to 1 mix. In prosses of sanding prime and paint. Will post vid on this.
You can remove the air in cooling systems with a vacuum filling device. It's used in automotive repair because newer cars have air pockets in the system. The tool works like an air conditioner vacuum pump it pulls a vacuum then you throw a valve the fluid goes in replacing the vacuum it will fill entire system without any air pockets.
Great build! Two things, If you run a small bleed tube from the high side of your cooling system down to the bleed port you put in. it will self-bleed and keep the pump primed. I didn't see one but do you have a coolant tank? also, the safety wire on your prop is incorrect on one of the bolts.
If you want cast aluminum welded you have 2 options. One is to find a welding shop that has old dialarc TIG. I have used them and they can boil impurities out of the base in order to add material. Or find someone that has a hydrogen arc welder and knows how to use it. Saw one used by an old timer was amazed what he could do with it. Or there is a solder type alloy you can get for aluminum. It has a lower melt point than the aluminum alloy you are repairing. It can be machined after I have used it on my VW oil pan while waiting for a replacement oil pan to arrive. Those are your 3 options
Hey bro I really appreciate the updates. I have a kitfox 4 1050 (582)I want to put it on floats and I am thinking of going with a 670. I am keen to hear how yours performs. You have a sweet looking plane there! I love the Avids. I want to widen my gear too. Thanks for posting
Just bought an Avid and I’m already looking at options to upgrade the power. I think the 670 might be the way to go. What are your thoughts 2 years into this?
The temp spikes because your water pump is cavitating, a common problem when running a liquid cooled Rotax inverted. I drilled and tapped a fitting for an air bleed line on my 583 and installed a swirl header tank to allow the bubbles to purge from the coolant. Obviously the swirl header tank must be mounted so that it is at the top of cooling system. You should also drill a 3/32" hole in the thermostat disk if it does not have one.
That is a great idea! What I did was tap the water inlet at the pump, ran it with it cracked open to get all the air out and then set the bolt to not allow air in it. Did this a few time and all seems to be well now. Thanks for the input, may need it.
@@dcavidflyer3073Water will eventually out gas over time, cavitation will return, there must be a connection from the water pump to the header/swirl tank to continuously allow bubbles to collect an vent at pressure cap.
Hey I'm gonna put a 670 in my avid I was wondering did you use the exhost from the 582 and wondering about the head that accommodates 4 spark plugs where do I find one of those ?
Hey, the 670 was a big hop up in power. You will need a new exhaust for it. I had it made, here is the email, cpiracing1@gmail.com. He will need pics of your set up for proper placement of the pipe. The head came with my 670. I traded in my 582 to Rotax Rick out of Florida who build mine. You should reach out to him to see if you can get one from him. I hope this helps. thanks.
just curious as to why you would mount it upside down? i have a kitfox model 2 that i got a rotax rick 670 for. i mounted it facing it up. is there any benefit to puttingit upside down?
The kitfox came after the Avid Flyer, built before the company split. They wanted the avid to look more like a Cessna, so in order to do that they mount the engine upside down to fit in the cowling. Unlike Kitfox, later on, who kept it upright which they used the radial looking cowling.
