been watching for years don't think I have ever commented, keep the vids coming because of you I can now fix generators. You have some of the best man cave vids and I just wanted to say a huge thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Nice repair! I think the only thing I might have done differently would have been to drill 2-3 1/4" holes in those long stringer covers and use them to make spot welds to the underlying tubing. Might have made things just a little stiffer. But, as a friend always used to say, "done is good!"
We all need to get Mustie1 to a 100000subscribers. We all need to share his channel. I have watched him for years. A talented guy that I have learned an immense amount of knowledge from. You are deserving of 100k without a doubt.
Thanks, Mustie...you always bring stuff back into service without a lot of foolishness, and I can appreciate that because it's always hardest for me to decide when "enough is enough."
I really enjoyed your video of one of your latest yard sale shopping sprees where you obtained the old Dictaphone you were going to turn into a wine rack. Back in the 1940's my Dad sold the other version of the Dictaphone, the Ediaphone made by The Thomas Edison Company, I think, in West Orange, NJ. As a kid I learned all about them on visits to my Dad's office in Cincinnati. What you were missing on the Dictaphone was the microphone which was a device that had the shape of a cone. A flexible tube was attached to the microphone, the other end was plugged into the device, a diaphragm, where the needle is located. The media you recorded on was a black wax cylinder. The machine was used by executives to record, or dictate, letters. The secretary would replace the microphone with a primitive headset and use that start/stop pedal that you have to transcribe the letters. The machine eventually replaced shorthand and freed up staff for other tasks. The thumb lever on the left side of the machine was used to eject the cylinder from the chrome tube. After the letter were transcribed, the cylinders would be shaved on a special machine and used over and over until it was too thin to use again. That episode brought back some fond memories. Thanks!!
I have a 1986 TRX250 Honda. I though the same thing as you did on the oil drain plug. It actually had an aluminum washer on it that had mushroomed out and wrapped around the bottom of the bolt head. looks like the same thing has happened to that oil drain plug too good sir. Lovin the channel. I can honestly say that you are one of my go to channels for entertainment. One of your videos I remember you sayin "how can anybody watch something like this" more or less. I do small engine mechanicing on the side and I have learned quite a bit from you good sir.
It's amazing what a simple drain plug can do. The previous owner of my Express van installed an aftermarket oil pan drain plug and not only did it leak, but it also stripped out some of the threads on the plug. I installed a factory plug and no more leak! I once bought a used boat that was stored near the launch ramp of a beach (salt water). I saw some rust spots on the trailer frame and the seller's "mechanic" reassured me that is was just surface rust so I bought the boat and drove it home for three hours on the freeway. When I got it home, I decided to do what you did with the hammer test. That frame had more holes than swiss cheese! I managed to drive it to a trailer shop where they built me a new trailer for that boat.
you have prompted me to buy a 407 piece O ring set lol, i've been needing to do that for ages now, also you really have taught me quite a bit about a little bit of everything, thank you! there are some things you just cannot learn from a book, You just have to watch someone do it, i think you very much!
25 years of rebuilding atv and dirt bike engines and small engines in general and I've never seen a frame rusted out like that. You guy's must be close to saltwater and whatnot. Or battery vent tube is stuck in a hole of the frame which i have seen that rot frames before. I was very surprised with honda not putting a nice skid plate on the honda 250/400 ex models. Ive repaired several cracked crank cases. Nice work
hello Mustie1 I'm Massimo from Italy, I wanted to tell you that I really like your videos, so I thank you for helping me to pass the time in this difficult moment for humanity, keep going strong.
If it were mine, I'd be putting in a skidplate under there, as you say, it needs one really, leaving the underside exposed like that is just asking for a smashed crankcase... :)
Good job shoring up the frame on the old Honda quad. The owners should be able to enjoy it for the next several years now without fear of catastrophic failure..
You're repairs are definitely quicker and easier going over the existing frame. Here in Idaho when I rsn my shop i always cut the bad chunck of frsme out put a small tube inside of the existing frame witha larger tube over and i plug welded the small tube if i wasn't able to slide bigger tube down far enough but like you said it could can get labor intensive but the liability of it breaking and being sued i usually barely broke even on labor cost but i always had happy customer's and they always seemed to come back. So i guess it worked out in the end. :)
Good ATV. Got some patina. I use WMM. It has its quirks, but its easy to use. Don't have to worry too much about parallel timelines. However, cannot lock clips, audio effects etc together, so be careful things don't disappear on you.
I wish I knew you when I had my 72 Dodge Champion RV, your engine troubleshooting steps are becoming a gold standard in my book of limited mechanical knowledge :) I can't wait to see more :)
Lucky easy fix ..bought a ‘17 rancher 6 mo. ago with hidden (salt water) rust damage that swiss cheezed the front lower control arm brackets and lower engine mounts with bonus rusted out bracket bolts with no heads…had carefully cut out bolts to retain bolt hole locations and remove front carrier assembly …bought linear 10 mm rods to align brackets and piece back fabricated brackets and frame gussets…worked out well but sure as hell don’t want to do it again…FYI…broke the bank buy buying POR 15 instead of spray paint but after using it the results with that stuff is amazing..
The drain plug you originally removed has an aluminum crush washer on it, if you look close and pry it back with a pocket knife you'll get it to come loose from the bolt
"Wanna know the biggest pain in the ass about making videos? Every time I go to turn you guys on I gotta go turn the stereo off." -- This. Exactly! I know this feeling. Recording new videos - feeling the same thing on TP. Good to know I'm not alone. (Uh.. 2019.. heh. - ( E c h o ... ) -)
Another cool musti 1 video...I had to weld my mower deck at the weekend I might start a u tube channel up if I get time! PS enjoyed vw nuts videos as well!
Great stuff, mega jealous of the freebies you get we don't have that in the uk. I found a memento the other day, gonna send it, if the po box is still good, think you'll like it. Keep em coming please!
I bought a life time subscription to Filmora by Wondershare. Its actually a rather decent editor for the money. but like everything else you have to get past the learning curve... I really enjoy your videos. keep it up.
Wear long sleeves man! I don't want you to be stuck at the dermatologist with skin cancer due to your welding skillz! Be safe, i really enjoy you videos, peace!
Hi dude just ever had a problem like this .... I have 76 porker with a 3.2 conversion in her and yesterday I left the ignition for a few hours while trying to figure out window problems to day it seem like it's firing once on the first click of the key and the like a clicking relay somewhere in the engine compartment or it the distributor.... and it's refusing to fire on the second click of the key .. it turns over great and it was a great runner.
For a more effective cleaning,spray brakecleen into the stream of compressed air pointing at the part/area to be cleaned.You will be impressed.Also put some parts washer in a spray bottle and use the same method.
Everybody should know that metals shrinks after being heated, so that's why you tack weld to keep the integrity of the weld and metal stable, otherwise it would shrink after it cools down.
I think you have a mill? when putting tubing on for reinforcements you can cut slots in tubing or drill holes so you can weld in multiple locations...stronger final product...
Hey Darreb you should see what preserved locos we ghave here, the twin Napier Deltic engined monsters known as the class 55s were a special kind of insane, and the noise at full chat at around 100 mph is phenomenal, ASearch google for Royal Scots Grey
Ha you think you blind me with your welding... Jokes on you, I always wear my safety glasses and automatic welding helmet when I watch your fantastic videos!!! Momma didn't raise no fool!!!
Hey , I do steel fabrication and welding in a body shop and about 50 percent of my fabrication is rust repair on trucks . Cutting the entire section out and splicing in a fresh clean piece of tube isn't weaker than capping it as long as you are a good welder , it all depends on your welding skills, a good weld is far stronger than the steel of the tube or whatever it is your welding on. The reason you should cut the whole section out is because there most likely is surface rust that has covered the entire inside of that tube and you simply cut out the worst of it , but leaving even mildly pitted steel behind it will just rott back out again in the same spot. The question is what was wrong with the engineering of the original frame that caused it to rust. Does debris build up there on or in the tube, does water collect on or in the tube at that point , or was the finished damaged causing it to stem from surface rust externally originally , or was rhe finish damaged by chemicals or any sort exposing raw steel. You need to figure this out , why it originally rotted out to begin with in order to truelly fix the problem , not just cut the rot out and throw a patch over it. That's only 50 percent of the repair , the other is reengineering the structure and modify it to prevent it from rotting out again in the future. Not trying to criticize you in just stating the facts. I've been doing what I do for a very long time so I do have the means to justify leaving this comment , your gas is a little high btw as well. It should be between 18-20 pounds
I saw a Model T bucket come apart when it hit a cut stone after almost getting in an accident, it had the frame welded together and just flew apart with contact. Is this weld going to hold up?
I’m curious, I have to stand my 2008 Honda Foreman on end so do I need to drain fuel and oil first to prevent it from escaping and also to protect from welding sparks? Thanks.
hey bud, just wanted you to know. that there should be a hole drilled in the frame, towards the rear elbow to drain water out.. so you do want 2 holes in the back of the frame (at the elbow on the bottom of the frame before it goes up to the rear axle) one per side. If you look close, you will see that there factory drilled holes. so after you do the patching, added a drain hole per side.. Plus you can't tell if you have water tight welds. So this is why they added them drain holes at the bottom of the frame.. Great video. thumbs up. P.S. drove by your house today, Thursday 9-28-17 (On my way home from work I drive by every day) saw you were working on a old white car (could not tell what car it was, I went by a lil quick) I am still asking you, Would it be OK to stop in and say Hi? or is that just to odd, or crazy??? Please let me know? just a reply of ya, or No.. thank you, Rdownergarage
Might not be a bad thing...Some semi shops used to (maybe still do?) spray used motor oil on the underside and then drive down a dusty gravel road to make a water barrier.
I, for one, think that the new editing software has been un-detectable in your videos. Another great video - both content and patching/uploading/etc. Others that are early subscribers (before me), please comment with your opinions/viewpoints. Thank you Darren, for all you do for us! Chuck in Kansas
Thanks for all of the great videos I look forward to each new one. I noticed while watching one of your mower videos that you were using multiweight oil in it. my Toro manual specifies only single weight oil which is sometimes hard to find do you think there is any risk in using 5w30?
I have one of these atv's and the engine case has had micro cracks in it since it was new. they're still bullet proof engines though. these atvs never came with a seal on the drain plug either so thats why you didn't find one
What could you add in the frame to stop them from rusting inside out other than oil. Would that spray insulation maybe do something? Or would that retain the water more.
If you have time to dismantle the thing, then one possible solution is to burst a self etching primer + rust primer combo and pour it inside via hole, then roll it around until it's coated. It's messy as fuck, i'm not going to lie, but it does work. My snow mobile was developing rust issues on the front left side, these fuckers throw salt on the mountain paths just like on the roads, and i had to do that. No rust issues since.
It's not the first time I see Honda castings have little ridges on the surface that look like cracks, sometimes it's really confusing (my neighboor's s800 has a ton on it's block). Fortunately the plug was an easy fix :D
Considering your time and the condition of this thing, was it really worth saving? A car in this condition would have been crushed by now. But, I know you love a challenge and you certainly got one in this thing!
