*update* The lift is holding up very nicely, I regularly beat this rig at Silver Lake Sand Dunes and in the mud and haven't had a problem. Very well mannered on the street as well with 33s and 35s. I recently toasted the motor so it is going to be rebuilt with a major cam upgrade and head work. Trans is already built to handle up to 500 hp. I am hoping to pull just over 350 hp with the motor still running on the stock injector setup which is about max on the vortec. A big upgrade over the 255 hp stock number. After that there will be no part of the truck that hasn't been rebuilt or replaced and hope for it to really do well! Video will come ASAP after it's done. Thanks for following! Happy wheeling!
Great video! I have a 2015 Silverado with a 6 inch rough country lift on it and 35" tires. I'm really considering going to 33's after seeing your video. I'd like to get a little better MPG and my wife and son will have a easier time getting in and out. Take care.
This kit utilizes the stock spindles so the track width remains the same, or close to it. I know a lot of kits with aftermarket spindles will increase track width, which would be the reason for your wheels sticking out further. You should be able to get spacers for the rear to even them out, but as for changing it I believe that if they came with your kit they probably have to stay with it to keep it all working together. Also, look into a wheel with less offset if you don't want them to stick out as far!
As far as gears go that all depends on what size tire you run and how you run it. The bigger you go in tire size the weaker your truck will feel. If you plan to just road drive big tires generally you don't need to, but if you plan on doing any wheeling usually you will need to have that power or your big tires become useless. So lowering your gear ratio compensates for that.
Thanks everyone! It’s good to see this thing is still being watched..😂😂 I don’t own this truck anymore, but I can say it held up fine for my ownership. The video was for a contest put on by RC, the winner received a full refund on their lift kit. The whole point was to review the kit you had purchased. I made this for fun, with my goofball ass personality and didn’t think it would ever get so much attention over the years. The other contestants literally have hundreds of views. ****No I didn’t win either 🤣🤣
Haha! Yep, good eye.. Definitely hard to avoid the rust here in the mitten. When I bought the truck 10 years ago it was rust free, now I just say it's got a one of a kind patina going hahaha!
Nice video bud I just picked up a 98 chevy k1500/z71 5.7 vortec. Pretty happy with this truck at the moment! Good looking truck bud! Mines stock I'll prolly keep it that way for awhile. And then lift it up!
I'm buying the kit in a month I just liked the way you were going with the truck so I was wondering if you had anymore videos or some other social media thing
This was before the front driveshaft was put back in and it was all finished. No crank on it at all. When I finished putting it together I cranked it to level, still with minimal impact to the CV angles as well.
+Richard gray either that or we have a couple shops in town with dynos that I was going to bring it to. Either way it will be nice to bring it to its full potential
I love the way this cat positions the truck so you don't see the nose dive lol. You should take that extra leave spring out to make it level play boy.... I'm not nocking you though! I have a rough country lift as well and I think they are great kits for the price... I like those wheels also. I wish you knew the offset. If I had to guess -38
I've beaten the snot out of it for almost a year and it's held up great. The shocks are starting to be a little rough but I've beat it pretty good and they are under warranty still, otherwise everything else is solid. I would say it was definitely worth the investment.
There will be a follow up, along with many more videos of the truck wheeling this year. I now have a camera worth using and the truck is nothing more than a toy so it will continue to be beaten on. Stay tuned when the snow melts, the fun starts!
Hahaha, nowadays it sits more level. Still a little lower up front but better. It did nose dive bad in this video but it has been cranked some since. This video was for a contest so it's just quick and cheesy but I'm gonna keep posting the truck more this year. The kit actually only drops the front 5" so to achieve 6" you need to crank. The back clocks in more around 8" but should settle some when I start putting some weight back there. It's just a toy though. I beat it senseless so looks aren't my biggest concern. I wanted my CVs to be more level so I left it turned down in the front. Can't complain though it does what I wanted for a good price!
Hahahaha right! As much as I'd love to throw a 6.0 and some 3/4 tons on this old beast I think I'm gonna save that for my next truck so I can start with a cleaner one!
I recently bought a 95 Chevy 1500 and I also bought the lift but I need to know what rims and tires exactly you have in this video because it looks so nice! Please reply! Thank you so much!
thats the AAL's... I have the same exact lift on my truck and the AAL plus the blocks raised my truck about 10 inches in the rear and 6" in the front. I took the blocks out, leveled it just right
Well you are a good talker so I'm guessing you won the contest! It is a good video..... I don't very much like the polo shirt guys showing off truck stuff in a heated garage with rubber gloves on lol U just need to know offset of those wheel son, then it will be a perfect vid......lol
I took my truck apart for an LS swap some time ago, I cant remember if the spacers for transmission crossmember bolts hang below frame going between frame and crossmember which seems weird or go above it, thought you might know my trucks a 93 with a 6-inch Lift as well.
No problems with my cv's they are pretty flat still, it's not cranked up really. As for the offset I honestly couldn't tell you offhand, I'd have to look it up or figure it out.
I installed a 6 "lift kit to a chevy silverado k1500 94, and I stayed 3/4 inch behind the wheel on the driver's side, the right side was perfect the tire does not bump when the steering wheel is twisted, I put tires 35, you have ideas that might have happened to me, maybe you can give me some advice before I take it apart again.
i got a question. i got a 98 chevy with a 6 in rcd lift with 35's and my front tire stick out alot farther than yours. about half my tire is sticking out past the corner panel. what spindles are you using?
No, you will need to buy those parts. Replace the lower ball joints and bushings, buy the rcx uppers, buy quality wheel hubs, tie rods, idler and pitman arm, sway bar links, and torsion keys. The 6" is just a 4" they make you crank 2 more inches. Also a steering stabilizer is a good idea, and maybe extended length cv axles
All you need to do now is LS swap it, throw a linked solid axle under the front, and four link the rear with coilovers all around. Boom you're done! lol
Lol got a prize but didn't win. But next time I put my other wheels and tires on I will get some measurements and figure out the offset and backspacing on these.
I hate the look of body lift but eventually when I get a new truck/build going I'm gonna body lift this one, throw the biggest tires I can on it, gear it way down, use it as a trailer rig and beat it senseless.
Great video! i got a 98 sierra same exactly lift rollin on 35s and doesnt rub at all! also wanted to know what size spacers you got? i wanna achieve the same look on my rig
No spacers, that's just the offset of the wheels. I had them off a few weeks ago and was meaning to measure the offset but forgot. They are 15x10, next time I have them off I will measure them and comment with the specs.
I am putting a 4" superlift suspension lift kit on mine but it's an 89 3/4 ton, my question is did you flip the sway bar upside down with the 6" lift as well? And if so, how did you have that positioned in relation to the tie rods?
No alterations were needed for the driveshafts, although if the there is any more lift on the suspension it would need it. I just blew the motor and am having it rebuilt with a hefty cam and head work so I'm debating putting in a steel rear to handle the power. When it's done I may get it an inch longer because mine is about at the max as far as length goes.
I hate how it doesn't sit level, but when you cranked your keys all the way it leveled out for ya right? I have a 93 single cab 4x4 just curious because I plan on lifting it too it's just a totally different layout then my 08
It sits more level now. My concern was when you crank it that much the CVs kink pretty good and I wheel the hell outta the thing so I didn't want such an angle. Plus the back already had another leaf so it went a little higher than 6 so that doesn't help either.
When I first put the lift on and made the video I didn't crank the front any. The front diff drop is only roughly 5" and the back with the block and leaf is closer to 8" which is why it was raked so bad. I have since cranked the front to about 6" and the back settled a little to be around 7" so it's closer now than it was then. That's how every rough country looks for this truck unless you crank your bars to the max. Personally I just don't like that much angle on my CVs cuz I beat the hell out of the truck, so I kept them as flat as possible.
Hey buddy what does the front driver side look like? I have a 1998 just like your truck, same lift but an older one. Is was on there when I got the truck... But I can’t put it in 4x4 Without ripping the CV axle two pieces! Have you experienced anything like that? Thanks Dustin
Check your rear end gear ratio. Sounds like there not matching up with the front. Basically your front wheels are turning slower or faster than your rear.
It stays the same just front diff is lowered along with the rear. Think the Brake lines will have to be adjusted but don't need to purchase longer lines.
Running the same setup on my 98 love it little bit of a bumpy ride but hey I'm Rollin 35's jacked to the sky thinking of doing a 4" body lift just to move up to 37's or so
How did you manage a 4 inch body lift and be able to run 40's? I have a 1993 Chevy K2500 and I've been running a 3 inch body lift with 35's and they rub on any bigger bump. Plus I have a square body Chevy's winch bumper so I even have a lot of extra clearance in the front. I just got a 6 inch suspension lift to add to the 3 inch body lift and will just barely clear 40's if I force it.
well for the body lift it was a standard 3in. and honestly i had another pair laying around . so i cut em into 1in. and for the screwing i went to U bolt and bought one of those long ones you can cut to your prefrence.. and well i just trimed the bumper a little. didnt raise it tho . i have no issues with it. it doesnt scrape at all. and the tires are gumbo monster mudders. they are for 16in. rims and are 18in. wide
I have a 1998 Chevy K1500 with a 350 vortec and a 5 speed transmission. Currently on the highway I am getting over 16 mpg. If I were to throw either a 3 in lift with 33s or a 6in lift with 35s how much would that negatively affect my mpg?
I have 315/70/17's (35 x 11) on American Outlaw 17 x 10 wheels on my 1995 Z-71 with only a 2" Leveling kit in the front and I actually have more differential ground clearance than you do with a 6" lift. That lift looks good, but for functionality its a waste of money.
Looking to lift my 2002 Dodge ram 1500 SLT quad cab 4x4. I've been looking at different companies such as fabtech, skyjacker and so on, now what is so different in the price? I can buy a 5 inch suspension lift for $1,193 from rough country. Or I can spend over $2000 from say fabtech, now where does the price differ? Kind o a noob when it comes to lifts.
Most of the time it's a brand name you are paying for. Some kits retain stock geometry better than others but most nowadays are pretty good. Otherwise things such as shocks/bushings might not be as good with the lower price kits. The hard parts on most any kit should be warrantied for life of the vehicle. I know many others that are as pleased with RC products as much as I am so I would recommend them but that's going to be something you are going to have to research and decide what will be best for your truck. Hope that helps!
Any time you change tire size from stock, the speedometer needs to be calibrated in order to be accurate. However most of the obs trucks will become inaccurate over time and most will increase in speed. Increasing tire size can fix or help this. I was 15 mph off in my suburban. 37" tires solved this issue. Stock is 31"
Actually the gear ratio is about the only thing I left the same. Its stock 3.42 ratio with locker out back. I have a healthy 355 so it doesn't feel doggy even though I'm sure gears would get me more. With my 33s on it she runs about 1800ish at 70
@WeRunBC the drive shaft runs above the exhaust on a stock obs. However when you lift it, the drives haft position is changed. This will cause the exhaust pipe to make contact with the drives haft. They sell an aftermarket down pipe to fix this. Or you can swap to long tube headers, and bend your own exhaust. I did the second option on my 97 suburban
It's not terrible, the only bummer is they want you to re use your stock clamp to hold it together and it was tough to get my 5 leafs all in there. Ended up putting on aftermarket spring pack clamps after some shifting occurred, everything has been great since.
+geoff b I'm worried about getting them off I have all the lift installed other than the add a leaf and was considering leaving them on the truck and adding it that way did you actually take yours off? I'm worried the bushings are rusted solid
