ROVAN ROFUN LT45 45CC IN DEPTH UNBOXING REVIEW 

Thank you, wait till you see it go...

I'm glad you got it running! Are you sure it was seized? If so you may want to inspect the engine internally and replace any parts or replace the engine 🤔 You're a step closer!

Change that engine it's not worth hassle it's total trash, zero power, overheats constantly, hard to start, just overall trash that shouldn't be produced. Someone should actually sue rovan for this because it's literally unusable. If you replace engine with something good and reliable like zenoah it's decent package

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Thank you for watching!

Thank you, RHPATEL, for your kind words 🙏🏼 stay tuned as we have some awesome content on its way!

There is indeed and quick too!

This is the rovan LT45 similar to the losi 5ive T 2.0. However, this does have a few more metal components. The Rovan LT360 is pretty much the same as the 5ive T bar the hardware.

@@thercstore. Awesome! I ordered the red Rovan LT45.

@Harvz78 great platform to start with! Obviously, like anything, there's room for improvement, which is where you make it your own. Ie engine upgrades, so fourth!

All petrol RC's vibrate! Not sure what you mean regarding burn in??? Only issues we have had with these has been our own fault. We bent the chassis on this one "jumping it" however it gave us an excuse to do a full build on it. Check out the videos! Thank you for your support its really appreciated!

Thanks, I'm not talking about the problem with this car, but the problem with the 45cc motor it has. However, this may be due to my adjustment not being done properly, so I will repair it and try again.@@thercstore.

What happened to yours??? We have around 4 45cc engines all been okay. Just make sure your fuel settings are correct! Don't run it too hot.

Thank you. If possible, could you tell me the position of the carburetor needle?

@redsmagic4907 I've adjusted all the carbs on all our cars from factory settings. The air temps, etc, all make a difference to you setting up the carb. These carburettors require regular adjustment to ensure peak performance and also to avoid an unsafe lean condition, which can prematurely damage your engine. If you find your top-end RPM's have fallen off a bit, or if you experience lagging or surging, it is probably time to re-adjust the carb jets. To ensure max performance and engine life, follow this procedure: 1) Locate the low and high RPM jets on the side of the carb - they are usually marked with a L and a H. Turn both jets completely CLOCKWISE ( to the fully closed position). 2) Rotate the low jet counter-clockwise to 1 and 1/4 turns open. 3) Rotate the high jet counter-clockwise to approx 1 and 3/8 turns open. 4) Now, start the engine. You may need to turn the low jet slightly one way or the other for the engine to start. 5) Adjust the low jet as desired until the idle is where you like it. Turning clockwise ("CLOSING" THE JET) will produce a higher idle, and counterclockwise ("OPENING" THE JET) will produce a lower idle (and eventually flood and the engine will kill, if you turn it too far). 6) Open the throttle lever to full blast. Adjust the high jet until you get maximum RPMs. Note: this will probably be REALLY LOUD. Listen for the highest-pitched whine to tell you where max RPMs are hit. AFTER YOU FIND THE MAX RPM SETTING, TURN THE HIGH JET COUNTER-CLOCKWISE ("OPEN" THE JET) APPROX 1/16TH OF A TURN TO ENSURE YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT GAS/OIL MIX TO COOL THE ENGINE PROPERLY. Note: The above are just general guidelines. You may need to adjust both the H and L screws once you begin driving, depending on engine loading, altitude, humidity, etc. The trick is to find settings that work well for you and stick with them. Here is some helpful information regarding common carburettor tuning problems: If your engine stutters at full throttle and can not reach full RPMs: The high jet is too far open. Close the jet by turning it clockwise slightly, and then ride-test. If there is no improvement, repeat until desired results are achieved. Once you have found a workable setting, open the jet approx 1/16 of a turn to ensure sufficient fuel/air mix. If your engine bogs out when transitioning from low speed: The high jet is too far closed. Open the jet by turning it counterclockwise until you are at least 1 1/2 turns open, and then gradually close the jet until performance is as desired. Poor engine compression, blocked exhausts, and very heavy engine loading can all also cause bogging. If your engine idles very fast and kills if you attempt to slow the idle: You may have an air leak in your intake. An easy way to check for leaks is to spray the intake manifold and area surrounding it with WD-40. If the idle changes after you spray the WD-40, there is an air leak. Common areas for leaks are between the manifold and the cylinder and between the carb and the intake manifold. Inspect the manifold, carb gasket, and intake gasket for cracks or other signs of damage, and replace if necessary. If your engine idles but then slowly kills: Your low jet is too far open. Close the low jet by turning it clockwise until a stable idle is achieved.