In this video we give a brief over view of the engine rebuild and Dyno test on this beautiful classic Rover. Facebook - / penguinmotorslimited Instagram - / penguinmotorslimited
Plastigage is such a perfect tool. love this rebuilder showing WHY you will pay him to rebuild. i used to have a bicycle shop and i loved people watching me repair. than they saw all the work and care i put in.
Oh how nice to see one of those wonderful cars, my first car was a 2000 TC -67,it was in 1977 it was involved in a minor accident and was to expensive to repair. After a few years I bought a 3500 V8 and enjoyed it for a couple of years, both cars where fantastic and I still miss them, especially the V8,at that time I was young and drove it hard,it was so nice to overtake other cars, just a kickdown and it pulled up to 160 km/h on second gear until shifting to third gear. I sold it and bought a Opel record 1.7 and I almost killed myself trying to overtake and nothing happens 😂 Sweet memories. Thanks for uploading.
That brings back some memories. I did my 4-year apprenticeship on Jaguar Rover and Triumph in the '70s at Dutton Foreshaws in Bedford and loved the Rovers and Jags. I was just 17 back then and couldn't believe how smooth the Rover 3500 was. Now a retired old man of 66 great to see these cars still being loved. Great channel thanks😀
That was a really interesting watch, thank you 👍. Great to see the dyno run and road test at the end, and I love the easy confidence that you exude when explaining things. Always the hallmark of someone who fully understands what they are doing and why.
I had a 3500S 1973 high compression heads 176bhp and 220lbs toque as quoted in the Haynes manual 17mpg to 25 mpg touring she would lose to rear in 3rd at 30mph if you asked her, loved it!
@@PenguinMotors "The Rover 3500 was also assembled by Leykor in South Africa. A high compression version was added in 1971, with a high compression version of the V8 producing 184 hp (137 kW).[12] The P6 continued in South African assembly until being phased out during 1975; the SD1 arrived in 1977.[13]"
Remember so many of these iconic cars on The roads of Scotland where I live. Again as a youngster used to look on and admire the look and sound of these engineering beauties. It was the details that caught my eye and loved the old Triumph 1500 my grandparents owned with the wooden appearance dash and seperate instrument lights. There was definitely a unique smell in these car interiors. However the Rover was the pinnacle in my eyes ( and unobtainable).Great video with well explained knowledgable stages that a classic car admirer with no engineering aptitude thoroughly enjoyed.
when we get any shaft with a seal groove, we use a shaft saver sleeve. I just used one on the rear crank and front harmonic balancer of a 96 Discovery 4.0. Very reliable and they save a ton of money. $35 each instead of a crank and balancer.
@@PenguinMotors I have 2 videos highlighting bad seal surfaces. in my hour long video, it is at the 10 minute mark, and the video about repairing a crankshaft is all about the sealing surface.
Interesting video. My dad had a 74 3500 auto. I learnt to drive in it. I remember it being very fast back then! Unusually it had denovo tyres fitted which were terribly expensive. Conaught green? Very stylish car.
Guess thats the Buick engine, that the head of Rover found unloved in the comer of Buick's workshop in the US. Its nice and compact. 1st admired those cars as a 12 year old. Still love em.
Yes Rover beefed up the block about 25kg and understood how to cast aluminum properly from having built aero engines. Maybe because they knew how to spell it. In Australia we had a 4.4 litre version for the unpopular P76.
I'm 1 minutes 33 seconds in to your video and you have blown my mind with the information so far will watch till the end have you any tips on betting the cams in what to look out for and what to ignore many thanks tyler
Best way to bed in a cam is make sure oil and fuel systems are primed so when your ready to start the engine it fires straight up, then hold it at around 2000-2500 rpm for 20 minutes
If you heat the block you can just knock them out using a suitable drift and big hammer, or a press, but its more common these days to use a boring machine to bore out the liner until its collapses
Great video, thanks. Also a really nice looking car XC prefixed, straight bodywork, un-warped dash, are you waiting to get the black paint on the bottom of the wings just at the right angle? (It just doesn't look right when it's off). I thought all the 9.25:1 engines had plastic lip seals (as opposed to rope) maybe not the early ones, it is possible to get the rope seals installed without leaking, but I remember installing a rear main in a 1969 P6 and having to remove the engine again to set it again properly! sometimes it goes well other times not. 😅
I have a rover P6 3500 s, the engine has quite some oil spilling symtoms, is there w way to clean that? also the V8 is a high compression version, modern gasoline is not suitable, so I use Lpg.
Of course it depends on what the customer says and wants. But when youre in there I really would have recommended a performance valve and seat job in spite of the valves and seats not leaking. A better valve and seat job could easily have freed up some 4-8 hp and more importantly better lower to mid rpm torque which this old bird kinda needs. Back in my early days of engine trimming and tuning we got a Rover in once in a blue moon. And you are right, they seldom held the power claimed. They were just shy of the numbers, like 3-4 hp down.
your spot on, in this case the customer wanted factory original everything, his daily drive is a twin motor Tesla which goes like hell, so the Rover to him is literally a cruiser. Short of fitting a blown 427 V8 theres nothing we could do to make this only Rover feel even remotely brisk compared to the Tesla
@@PenguinMotors I wonder if anyone will be rebuilding their cherished Tesla in 50 years with the professional care you gave that old Rover engine? Perhaps, you'd think it wouldn't take anywhere near the work... but they'll never have the smile on their face listening to that lovely V8 burble, again. Fine work, if that was my P6, I mean if I could afford one now, I'd be painting those sills matching white over the stoneguard, to really finish off the lovely lines.
@@CUTproductionsLtd modern Tesla's, or even their engines are not built to last a long time at all- due to being cheaply mass made/manufactured at huge factories.
i have a soft spot for triumph 2000 or more correctly 2500 as i had a couple of them when i was young, used to love clicking in and out of OD 3rd round the lanes. I havnt done any real work on one for 30 odd years now so im afraid theres no real likely hood of my doing a triumph
P6 USA Engine was it V8 in 75' in 'SA I was told it WAS? forget which one i don't know! only borrowed for few days ida Rather borrowed a UK 2.5pi Triumph that was fab G reg back then! last of Cortinas 3litre was almost standard ..in SA of course
he did it the expensive way by having new liners and lots of genuine parts, so it was something like 5K, Every engine is different but You could do it for a lot less than this one cost.
Please anyone watching this do not use emery on a lathe as shown here. I have personally seen someone nearly loose their arm doing this. There is a cheap holder you can use. Also long term the grit will fcuk your lathe.
ha ha, there are many cars from my younger dfays that were considered worthless but now are worth £25,000 or more. but value doesnt really come into it, if you like a classic car why not spemd money on it. if you spend money on a classic car you stil have something, what have you got if you drinking smoking or go on holiday, nothing!
@MyCold1 For what ?? 1. For Lucas's electric system. 2. Main brake Cylinder continuous leakage 3. Borg Warner gearboxes 4. Camshaft wear out 5. NSU carburetor 6. Overheating 7. Petrol High Commission 8. Lifetime guarantee oil leaks engine and gearbox.. 9. Rear axle worst design ever. And the list goes on and on ...
