This time we service our Royal Enfield Himalayan 410. We need a cold engine for a valve check so we will do that first and then change oil and filters in a second instalment.
The joy of simple motorbikes!..A very easy job on a simple set up and a job that any home mechanic can do. I wouldn't buy a lot of the modern stuff these days, as they are so complicated and you have so many things to take off just to get what you want to work on. Royal Enfield have hit the right note with their bikes and that's why they are selling so well. Another great video and a little question and you may do a video of this. What are the best motorbikes you have had and ridden and why? I am asking this as you have had a few motorbikes. I am looking for another motorbike that is light, comfortable, reliable, upright riding position and easy to work on. The Himalayan is a bike on the list.
Hi, thanks for the video, very clear and concise. Could you pls give an estimated torque value on the adjuster lock nut. I've adjusted the valves on my MotoGuzzi and I think I have tightened the crap out of it. I don't want to do the same thing on the Enfield.
Actually can’t find a torque setting in the manual to be honest. Possibly because of poor accessibility. But as you say doesn’t pay to go wild on those things
Hey brother 6:12 im trying to figure out what youre saying these tools are, im a little deaf and terrible at understanding english accents. The video is amazing so far and this is helping me out a ton!
@@bikerdood1100 I’m actually doing a adjustment just so that I can see if it will stop my engine knocking. Do you have any other ideas of what might stop it? Also, when checking the clearance should measuring tool be able to slide completely between the valve and the cam?
The feeler should go in but with minimal resistance Not so tight its a struggle to fit it at all but it shouldn’t slide in too easy like your holding it loosely between your fingers
@@bikerdood1100 That motor runs COUNTER clockwise.. Ever wonder why the starter clutch is engaging when you turn it clockwise? When you wrench on it clockwise you're fighting the starter clutch as well. There are other ways to achieve TDC. I don't really think you will break the torque of that nut with the spark plug out turning it in the direction the motor runs.
Would someone please clarify whether the clearances are checked and adjusted on the centre of the T mark or on the first horizontal mark immediately after the T? There seems to be contrary and confusing information across a number of videos I've watched on the subject
Depends really I’m more likely to use copper slip to be honest I don’t find that nuts and bolts loosen very often On the tapper valve nuts no They are pretty slender and I’d rathe4 Thayer didn’t stretch or break
I believe your advice to rotate the engine clockwise is wrong. I believe the RE manual says this but it is wrong. The engine should be rotated in the direction it runs, anti-clockwise. I appreciate you may think there is risk of undoing the nut but it is done up to 80nm and turning the engine over (spark plug out) is very easy so no risk of undoing it. You are at risk of damaging the camchain tensioner if you rotate the engine clockwise. I have just fitted a Tec camshaft and their instruction video was very specific. Rotate the engine anti-clockwise. In doing the job I could understand why, it feels a lot smoother and easier because you are not pulling the camchain in a direction it is not designed to run.
Hi guys..chyming in as a newbie trying to learn as much as I can about a bike which I do not yet own...however I have to say that based on my observations and watching countless videos, there is about 50-50 divie over whether to rotate clockwise or counter-clockwise. I find this very scary, since I don't know who to believe and once I do my adjustment, I don't want to do anything that would hurt my bike. Also....I have no idea what a "lay shaft" is. How could something mechanical like this be open to such interpretation? I freely admit my ignorance on this topic, but to anyone whom is mechanically inclined this should be a simple yes or no type of an answer?
Bit confused here. In this video, the narrator is very clear to say that the engine should only be rotated in a "clockwise" direction. However, in another video I have seen, the man doing the work says the very opposite ie that the engine should only be rotated in a anti (counter) clockwise direction ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jq_yUP4fA8k.html . Which is correct and why does it make a difference?
@@bikerdood1100 Investigated more. The engine actually runs forwards (ie anti-clockwise) but for some reason, most probably a design mistake, the nut which is used to turn the flywheel (which has the timing mark) has a normal right hand thread. Therefore there is a possibility that if you turn the engine over in the direction in which the engine normally runs using this nut, it could become undone. However, this nut done is torqued up to 70 nm and so it is most unlikely that if will come undone by simply turning a decompressed engine over. Hope this is clear.
Bullshit It doesn’t weigh anything Your only dealing for resistance Complete cods wallop 😂😂 If you can’t feel for that I would get someone do it it for you Seems like some people feel the need to be critical Even if it’s completely nonsense You are joking I do hope so 😂😂😂😂😂
On the old days we didn't have feeler gauges so a little taping noise on the inlet slightly louder on the exhaust and they are adjusted it's really not that critical unless it's well out. That's how dad and grandad taught me.
Every 3mm tappet tool I have bought (4) for the inlet side has been WAY too big to adjust, being that the frame is in the way. I did just the exhaust side @500km, and I have had a little luck using a pair of pliers at 1,000 km..Everything about the bike is either poorly thought out, or of the poorest quality it seems..- I had to buy the tappet tools online as no one sells these in shops where one can actually see it before hand any more-
