Website (Contact) : www.phoenixtypewriter.com Tip Jar (Thank You) : www.paypal.me/phoenixtypewriter Facebook : / phoenix.typewriter.7 Some basic maintenance on this Royal
Hi, I'm doing my first mineral spirits job. I'm following you step by step. I'm working on a Royal standard I bought for 5 dollars. There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it yet. It was just totally neglected & dirty. So I've been emboldened to learn on this machine. Thank you so much for your expertise.
I've got one that has the same green goo on the ribbon guide. Unfortunately, it also seems to have had some trauma in its past and even though everything moves freely, the ribbon lifter only comes up half as high as it ought to and the only adjustment is forming a stiff wire link that isn't exactly easy to access sufficiently to manipulate or to extract. What fun!
Most scales are tough, but I always check if I'm not sure, never assume when I comes to Lacquer Thinner Extra precaution is standard procedure when using that stuff.
Appreciate the videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. There seems to few professionals that know how to properly service typewriters. I recently bought a Royal KMG and am wondering what solution is best used to clean the internals. Appreciate it.
Just wondering what temporary oil spray you used to protect the casing from the lacquer thinner? Thanks. Your videos are great. Merry Christmas from Australia!
I inherited my grandfathers late 30s early 40s Royal typewriter. It has that old musty smell and I can't figure out how to get it out. Any suggestions would be helpful!
could you list the cleaners you use and for what parts you use them on? I don't want to damage the original finish on my project, thanks, nice video....
WD40 on case for protection/shield, lacquer thinner (skinny applicator) metal only, spray is Nutrol MG401 (good for everything) www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals-401B-340G-Nutrol-Control-Cleaner-340g-12-Oz-Aerosol-Can/251912832391?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225085%26meid%3D6c0f75aace4a4c679c08e52a565e9525%26pid%3D100678%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D192408184165%26itm%3D251912832391%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100678.m3607&_trkparms=pageci%3Ad3bf4ff6-7ea7-11ea-b8d5-74dbd1806cf5%7Cparentrq%3A7b06f7f21710aa65294b0f40fff92d28%7Ciid%3A1
Well this depends, but all typewriters can benefit from a professional cleaning, especially vintage machines like a QDL Old oil, 50 year old oil, gets gummy, these should be serviced regularly, sometimes yearly if used a lot.
How do you take the lid off? I have a royal thats a bit older than the one in your video, and I want to clean it, but I don't know how to get the lid off.
I’m flushing the bar segment with lacquer thinner and it seems fine for a bit, but when I type on it a half hour later it’s gummy and slow again. What am I doing wrong? How does one make lacquer thinner “skinny?”
Machine oil ? most parts on typewriters do not need oil, or if any, just a dusting of the lightest possible Some gun oil could be used on the carriage bearings and other contact points, but the type bar/basket pivots should have any thing that resembles oil, unless maybe you use high compressed air and blow out excess. I like this cleaner, it has 5% oil, but I still blow that out, air is your friend. www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals-401B-340G-Nutrol-Control-Cleaner-340g-12-Oz-Aerosol-Can/251912832391?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Dbf409a94b6804c6f9604fe1f644f0719%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D251175545980%26itm%3D251912832391%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ae504e144-239a-11eb-82d7-ca956a12330a%7Cparentrq%3Ab40a47331750a45e738630ddfffd22ca%7Ciid%3A1
I personally use clock oil and only put it here it's needed like pivots and sliding surfaces and just a small drop to each spot, usually. (Over oiling is how you get machines full of dirt and gummed up levers.) For bearings, I usually prefer grease because it stays in place better. But again, a little can go a long way.
Is there a carriage lock on these? I paid $50 for a non-working 1938 De Luxe which I moved the carriage back and forth and pressed some key and it started working which is awesome but what did I do? Maybe released a lock.
No carriage locks on the Royal portable Quiet Deluxe or any of it's variances Who knows what freed the typewriter up, sticky stuck part(s) ? Who knows what it's been thru in last 80 years
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 it’s funny the ad said it would never type again, now it types. Needs general cleaning and a few sticky parts cleaned and a new ribbon.
And, I believe I saw you use "vinyl" and metal brushes to clean/scrape the key fingers... are both ok as long as you are carefull with the metal one???
Type slugs ( faces ) are made from hardened steel, imposable to harm with steel or brass brushes I primarily use that nylon brush for most spot cleaning, wire brush primarily for the type slugs
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 What about all the the chemicals used? I just read NOT to use WD40, but I also didn't hear what the other products names you were using?
@@brookanderson404 The film of WD40 is to protect the keys and such from splashes of cleaner. Notice that it only goes on what he isn't cleaning and not onto the inner workings. He doesn't use it to lube the machine, which is what most people misunderstand about it. So what he puts on is for it's intended purpose and then he wipes all the WD40 off when he's done cleaning. He's just using ordinary lacquer thinner for his cleaning. Other people use mineral spirits, which requires the same precautions and maybe even more because it *will* harm the paint. Both basically dry residue free.
Hello sir. My girlfriend and I are trying to restore some Smith Corona Electrics (and various cheap clunkers we can find) and have been unable to find a lot of information about oxidized/stained plastic and how to make it look like new. I notice you often ask commenters for video links, so here's a video of the top plastic plate that goes around the keys: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hNVOz9XH8cI.html Notice that you can see the original plastic color at the edges, and the contrast shows how faded the plastic that is showing is. We thought at first this was nicotine stains from a smoker (as the keys are quite nasty too), but now we're leaning toward oxidation or sun damage. Are these old plastic pieces salvageable, or is it done for once it has faded like this? Thanks so much, we've learned a lot from your channel!
No No , WD-40 is not a lubricant, it Water Displacement chemical. What I was using is 5% oil, 95% cleaner www.ebay.com/itm/251912832391?_trkparms=aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201018205123%26meid%3D7e9df25f1e104f26acb56802f3f7c47f%26pid%3D101286%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26mehot%3Dpp%26itm%3D251912832391%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26algv%3DWatchlistVariantWithMLR&_trksid=p2380057.c101286.m47999&_trkparms=pageci%3A7c17e9ff-f17d-11eb-a32a-12025946b162%7Cparentrq%3Af9542ff217a0a4d7c9089ae2ffe878ae%7Ciid%3A1
Yea, the trouble is these are not tutorial videos, I'm not "teaching" people how to clean sections of typewriters. What I am doing is demonstrating my service and showing a behind the scene on my procedure BTW, if your going to hit Lacquer Thinner with compressed air you better be well ventilated.
