Well, i used the heater for the rest of the day and it started burning poorly, lots of odd exhaust noises. i switched back to diesel for a couple hours and it seemed fine this morning the heater refuses to fire on diesel. id say its blocked the atomizer. more investigation required
Maybe just the little pinhole needs cleaning? Thanks for the video. Looks like you have a fantastic free resource there with the used hydraulic oil. Probably mixed with diesel or kerosene could be the perfect fuel.
yes running on oil will need cleaning a lot also you are hitting the max temp of the unit and it will start slowing the pump speed down to keep the temps downs aka thermal throttling itself
@@englishrupe01 20% minimum then you have it. But you shud tune ur burner perfekt before try this out. Hz at low shud be minimum 1.2hz. And 3.6hz at maximum. Fan rpm shud go from 2200 low to 5000 max. If this is in 1688 menu you have no problem if u mix in 20% diesel ore cerosine
Oil burns slower then diesel, obviously, so we need to slow the injection of oil vs fan speed. It's not blowing out, it's flooding out... Using the twin peaks, altitude option by holding ok and timer buttons, activates an option to slow the pulses to the pump while keeping fan speed up! I haven't tried cold oil, mine is room temp (approx 15c) and I have a single copper coil wound around the exhaust just before being injected into the manifold. I have no specs, my experiments are practical and organic in nature, trial and error. I've also come to the conclusion these heaters don't operate well unless the intake and exhaust are pointing down, condensation and or unburned fuels accumulate and create the soot issues. I've been burning clean last season, and we'll into this. Cheers and love the vids!
Also, my controller works a lot different to yours. I don't have freq control per-say, mine uses 6 incremental settings with no readout as to the PWM time. And I see when you press on and lamp buttons, you didn't activate the altitude option? So my expertise different to yours, I wish I had more control like yours has. I have the same looking controller and a blue face, both operate the same way for me..
Are you running just on waste oil or hydraulic oil or a mix of oil & diesel? Thanks for giving us your experience. I hope to run a mix of waste oil & kerosene.
When you set the pump rate, that's the maximum it will run at. If the system temperature reaches the safe maximum the software will automatically reduce the pump rate to bring the temperature down. That's why you were seeing the temperature fluctuating at the higher pump rates.
Many people recommend running the heater at >200C when burning waste oil, since many waste oils (used motor oil for example) have flash points higher than 200C. Some have said they can achieve this by partially blocking the fan air intake to lower the cooling air running over the combustion chamber. A piece of light paper may work, since the vacuum should hold it in place.
Hi, good work, my heater has been running on hydraulic oil since 6 months ago with good results, combustion chamber temperature 210°-220° C and 110° C hot air outlet. These values are at settings P5 through P10. When I increase to P10 after 3 hours of work my exhaust pipe is red so i work continuously on P5. Cheers
@43:20 I'm glad you tried running at 4.3Hz after running at 4.8Hz. You were still able to maintain 220C even though you had leaned out the combusting by using about 12% less fuel. This tells me that it is important to get the heater temperature up >200C when running waste oil. Running lean (and hot) should help to keep the combustion chamber clean(er), and using 12% less fuel is a bonus. 🙂
Stuff stinks but I believe its the creme de la creme of the free waste oils.just need a change-over set up with a derve header tank. Realy appreciate your r and d. My second heater ( development unit lol ) arrived today so over crimbo I'll be giving it a go
You know you can change the passcode to all 6's it's one of options after fan speeds makes it lot easyer to get into setting . I did mine so it goes into fuel rates so don't need enter passcode just keep pressing setting key an they are after the timers. Makes it so much easyer to use
i was thinking my old military twin tank landrover had a change over valve. Fire it up to temp on diesel then switch over to the oil mix once its heated up
I’ve found that I can fine tune the stability of the fire by manipulating the voltage, rather than messing with presets. I just set mine on H3, and preheat my oil and use a nest of nichrome wire inside my burn chamber to ensure a complete burn and no flameouts.
the startup cycle is pre-programmed to run at full speed 5.5 hz no matter what setting you enter on the screen. then it slows down once up to a minimum of 65 degrees C.
you got the heater upside down , it wont work properly , its either cable up or exhaust pointing down or the vapour chamber is in the wrong oriantation to work correctly and obviously you have to adjust the air and fuel ratios for different fuel mixs.
In my experience doing this, you need to choke the inlet to stop the fan blowing out the flame, just put your hand over the inlet for a second and release it. You'll hear it reignite. Might need to do it a couple of times, but it works. Unfortunately it's not just press the button and done though
@@sNEAKYnIGHTmUPPET Lowering fan speed will reduce the amount of air going into the combustion chamber, in turn lowering the intensity and temperature of combustion.
And 1688 menu like i told about the Hz 1.2 low and 3.6 max. Shud stay at all this burners to never clogs up anyway. Better use and lower fuel use. And you allways have an good clean burner
I rescued a mate from the side of the road who had put £20 quids worth of petrol in a diesel car and realised his mistake fast, he just shut it down and rang me, I went along and drained the tank and stuck a gallon of diesel in and it seems to have recovered but I have this fuel in drums the car was on empty when he put the petrol in £20 quid worth) I have a free source of waist oil from cars, can anybody suggest a mix ratio
its important for these to be running vertically in regards of the exhaust/inlet (obviously facing down) re do all your tests doing this as your test so far are at least partly useless.....and a huge factor a to why you have had carbon build up....
The manual says it can run either horizontally or vertically (in regards to the glow plug) so his machine is in one of the correct orientations.It might contribute to increased carbon build-up, but that could also be because he is testing outside the recommended fuel.
So I hope everyone takes you know my devil's advocate comments you know with the grain of salt in that I'm trying to you know make it to where we all understand these things and what not better So I personally have a few issues with the control boards and the fuel efficiency of these things yeah they work and they pump out heat blah blah blah blah but they're not tuned IE you know proper fuel error mixture let's be real that edge cost but cost were willing to absorb if it's not being you know ripped off and within that we're all trying to run different fluids on and you know what not and you can get away with running most of it cuz the tuning that comes out of the factory is pretty crappy that it will basically burn just but everything The one thing you have to make sure you do when you're ever going to add you know other than diesel to it is you have to make sure the fire and flashover points are similar so that way it's crappy is the controller is it still can work with it also hydraulic fluid new yeah totally fine it would work twofold if you had your settings tuned properly it work better but it would work May have to be mixed with diesel or something else but at work The problem that comes into play The problem that comes into play when you're trying to run hydraulic fluid more specifically used hydraulic fluid is that hydraulic fluid is anhydrous which means no water but also means it absorbs moisture from the air ie the dark color not going deep into that so if you're going to use hydraulic fluid use hydraulic fluid as a fuel first you have to heat up that hydraulic fluid to at least water boiling temperature I would go halfway between the temperature of boiling water and that specific hydraulic fluids flash point burn point or standard hydraulic fluid burn point puts a little you know mixer you know not mixer but you know just got to stir it up while it's heating up and burn off that water or boil off that water because a when that water goes in there Yes water injected into a gasoline engine like certain aircraft can increase power but it doesn't work that way with with diesel in the way these things work and also having that water in their causes other issues inside the chamber etc etc so next time you do this test try boiling off the water first and you can basically tell just by the volume difference before and after boil because hydraulic fluid won't boil off The only reason why you don't want to bring hydraulic fluid up to it's boiling point is just safety you don't want to accidentally splashing over and catching fire because then you're screwed
David McLuckie seems to be finding that adding a little water to his diesel/waste motor oil mix is helping to clean the burn chamber on his test rig. Weird stuff. Or at least not what i would have expected.
