Rust, dust and grime: weathering with AK interactive 

yeah, doesn't look like anything I could not replicate with my various browns and reds and sand and greys. technique is key.

I ordered from them around Christmas, took a while before the order actually shipped, probably because they were partially closed down for the holiday, but once it actually shipped it made it from Spain to my front door in NJ in 28 hours (DHL is incredible).

happy halloween

I did not next build I will use them

That's the tanks you get!!!

@@xsamitt what?

@@cdrsimmons7300 Pleade reread your original comment !!!! ;-)

yes I always seal my acrylic paint job with Lacquer clear coat first.

Mig and AK were once one and the same but Miguel Jimenez left AK and started Mig Ammo. They are 2 separate companies producing nearly identical products in many cases.

sgtrock2175 thanks !

That would look overscaled on a 35th model

I would use tamiya or model master acrylics. if other brands are local to you, try them if they are paints for models (not general purpose acrylics, its too thick)

I bought their skin color set about a year ago, very satisfied with it. The acrylics, of course.

Foab Moab I top up the Real Color bottles with their own brand thinner (same process as I do with Tamiya and MLT) and I’ve had no issues whatsoever. Honestly, not one problem. What pressure are you using? I spray at around 22-25psi. Don’t spray too far away either, for obvious reasons. Just helping btw, I’m not telling you what to do etc.🙂👍🏻

@@Simonize41 Hi there After the initial failings with the Tamiya thinner, I got the AK brand thinner and filled it almost to the top of the jar, but it still seemed to retain similar issues spraying. I'm not entirely sure what my PSI is (I use a little mini compressor), but I noticed a few other little issues with the Real Color paint. For example, it sticks like glue, even thinned, to the inside of a pipette. So you can draw up enough to fill a paint cup, but only a half or a third of it will actually end up in the paint cup. When I eventually got it to spray, somewhat, I'd had to add more thinner to the jar. How high up the jar do you fill it with thinner?

Foab Moab I’ve never had a brand of paint that doesn’t stick to the inside of a pipette, I think that’s simply the nature of paint. I fill each jar with thinner to around halfway up the threaded area of the jar; has always worked for me. I’d advise getting a better compressor with more control if you can, you might find that the extra control will help you a lot. Otherwise just experiment, with different pressures and maybe try spraying closer to your subject.

@@Simonize41 Only thing is it was just the AK stuff that stuck, and I mean stuck fast. When I use Tamiya, it picks up and deposits a good amount and flushes out nicely when I draw up and squirt water out. The AK stuff meanwhile takes up a lot, but will barely release any back, and it took ages to clean. Even flushing the airbrush with water and cleaner seemed to take much longer.

enamel thinner or pigment setter.

Thanks

@@AndysHobbyHeadquarters is that a new build in the background i see?

Move or don't use acrylic , could try flow improver and retarder, but I know Brazil hit so maybe lacquer or enamels are the answer

Thanks @@vasili1207, it's a shame because acrylics modern products are so good, and the thinners for enamels...you know.

Least you can spray in the sunshine, just spray down wind Id trade rainy UK for sunny Brazil... :)

Ok @@vasili1207!!! I Miss London, I lived there in the 80's. Good, good times. Here I live in Bahia, but my motherland is Argentina, coincidences, right now I'm painting an old Academy kit of the warrior MCV, with AK colours, fortunately so far this is all ok.

Try using retarder and/or water and see if that works for you? I live in Sweden and have the opposite issue with acrylics - they take f-ing forever to dry. Worst are the MIG paints which takes 48 hours between coats and that's impossible to work with. MRP was the answer to my problem but I've got great results with Tamiya + iso as well but I prefer the quality of MRP.

Ironically the best for oil stains are oil (grease)paints, they come in a tube.

Damn your fast

THX : )

How did you watch a 22 minute video that was only released 4 minutes ago?

Becouse all the time hes vids are very good

Smart answer .@@michaelschwartz3987

Yes late dark yellow over red oxide

Me too until I realized I was wrong and my application techniques of pigments were wrong too. You can't achieve the in - scale levels pigments offers with any other product. You just need to knowhow to apply them. I recommend sprinkle your pigments and airbrush x20a thinner as a fixer over them at very low pressure (8psi)