Cheaper than a Maaco job, and seems to hold up a little better too! About 3 years ago I did a hood and both sides below the body side molding on a beater Cougar I have, and it has held up about the same as your Camaro. A buddy of mine did his whole 90s F150 with it with similar results as well. For a beater or something that you just want it to look decent for a couple years, the turbo can is hard to beat!
I rattle canned a Taiwan replacement fender for my old bronco back in the day with the standard duplicolor can from my local auto parts store - metallic black, no clear coat. It held up beautifully for the seven years I owned it after.
I painted a 75 Monza with black Krylon years ago. Turned out really nice and I didn’t even cut and buff but I kept it waxed. Drove it for about a year and then after sitting in the salvage yard for 2 years it still looked decent. It weather checked under the color in the areas where it was primered but not the other areas. This was in El Paso so constant sun.
the paint didn't last because it was left out in the elements with no protection. Anyone watching this, 2k clear is expensive by the can if you buy enough to clear a whole car. You can use 2k clear, sand it with 2000 grit paper and buff it. Or if you really do a good job and do it inside, you won't need to sand it because there will be no orange peel.
I thought 2 k clear doesn't adhere well to rustoleum oil based spray paint and in fact, acts as a paint thinner causing it to bubble up and break down?🤔
@@compound00 search for rustoleum 2k, and you'll see a bunch of videos. Or texashondachannel is the OG. I learned how to paint with cans from him. I will admit that one time, I used a silver metallic and put 2k after. It did not last a week before started to peel right off. 2k should work fine if the paint is gloss finish. I love 2k especially when applied indoors in good weather conditions.
@@compound00if you let it dry really good like 3months or so then paint boiling should not be problem if you spray 2k clear coat on these 1k spray paints
@@compound00i did a whole car in rustoleum gallon paint from home depot with a decent automotive clear nothing crazy maybe 80-100 a gallon an about 3 years later still looks like a professional paint job
For a budget option I think this is pretty decent. I would definitely do it on my road race only car. On a daily I'd do some clear over the top to retain the shine. All things considered though, I think this held up well.
Paint holds up better and remains shiny if 2 or 3 coats of clear are applied at the time it is painted. Also, do not sand and buff spray can paint or clearcoat. The only time you sand and buff is when top quality paint is used but definitely not when using rattlecan paint... just a quick fyi.. but hey that looked pretty good for just rattle can paint job.😊
The sanding and buffing made it look better. It faded because its rattle can not because of the buff job. Only one side was sanded and buffed. Both faded. Did you even watch?
My Thunderbird was pretty rusty when I found it so I used high temp engine clear. Wet sanded, polished and waxed out. It lasted for five years without any issues. It’s the car in the icon pic. I’m going to redo it again this year with some 2K clear hopefully that’ll hold up for quite a few years more than the high temp engine clear..
If you paint a vehicle with rustolium oil base enamel, you do not have to clear coat it at all, just keep your vehicle washed and waxed and your good to go. I would advise buying the gallon rustolium and use a spray gun to apply it. ( a billion times better results than a spray can)
Lots people mentioned the 2k clear. There’s a clear for turbo can now, should I use that instead & will it hold good as the 2k ?? Where to find 2k clear coat cheap since cans are expensive right !?
The 1K clear isn't supposed to be as hard and durable as the 2K, but I've seen pros make it look great and recommend it to beginners and DIYers because it's cheaper and the fumes are far less dangerous, requiring less effort towards safety, etc. Thing is they have to be wet sanded and polished, and then what I would do is put a ceramic coat on it. I don't see how that wouldn't be a win situation for a DIYer, as long as they do everything decently.
your next video on this car should be about knocking off that oxidation. I would really like to see you guys wet sand the opposite side with 5K grit paper only the side that was not sanded last time. then buff the whole car with a wool pad and heavy duty rubbing compound followed with a foam pad and some swirl remover. then apply the best available ceramic coating you guys can find..... yeah buddy... how bout dat
Thanks for sharing. I live in Canada and body men even retired think they should be paid like brain surgeons. Pretty pathetic that nobody wants to work.
I sanded this product, it came off in one place where the paint wasn’t applied to primer and where it wasn’t applied evenly. Where I used deluxe etched primer it appears to be very solid and sanded really well.
Self etching primer seems to be the way to go is what I hear a lot, at least for Joe blow home jobs. That's what I've always done and never had an issue.
Spray cans are singke stage u shouldn't wet sand them if your going to use a single stage paint then sand its shine off and clear coat it you should have started out with flat paint.
I'm going to spray my truck and saw your comment. If its single stage paint then should let paint dry and cure and dry sand it instead of wet? And after I clear coat do I leave it alone or then also wet sand yhe clear coat a bit? Thanks
Wait --- what happens if you buff it out, the whole car??? Dont leave us with a cliff hanger, show us what this paint does after you do give it some love and buff it.... The paint is holding up; ;better than clear coat, no chips or such, so how about a buff job and see what it looks like if someone actually took care of the car and buffed it.....
I want to spray my old truck with the rastoleum turbo can, to make the job last should I scuff sand the existing paint then use the new spray paint when it dries wet sand and then apply 2k? Do I wet sand after 2k coat as well?
It was a package on top of the Z28 package and it stood for International Race of Champions. Promoted as an American-motorsports equivalent of an all-star game. Despite its name, the IROC was primarily associated with North American oval track racing. Drivers raced identically-prepared stock cars set up by a single team of mechanics in an effort to make the race purely a test of driver ability. It was run with a small field of 12 invited drivers
@@MakeHotRoddingGreatAgain Well that’s why it looks like it does… Doesn’t hold up over time and loses glossy wet look.. Waste of time. Protect your work.
