This press has worked like a charm for my projects ru-vid.comUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
This videos are incredibly helpful! I have pretty much the same drill, and you allowed me to disassemble everything without fear of breaking it (I'm not touching the motor though, it works fine, and I'm not THAT confident). I'll let you know how it goes, right now I'm de-greasing everything. TYVM!
You just helped me figure out how to get my pulley off the motor. Mine is stuck fast…. Thanks for putting this video out there. It helps us less confident diy’ers!!
Thank you. This was most helpful in restoring my dad's 41 yr old DP which I'd never had apart. It is a fine drill but the runout had gotten so far out as to only be useful for sanding ect, now, with all bearings and wiring replaced, the specs are back in tolerance and it looks good as new. The replacement drive pins to re-atattch the name plate and other metal tags are to arrive tomorrow and all will be complete. Cheers!
An incredible job to even get the motor running again, I think many would have binned it! But to get it running and running so smoothly whilst looking so good is phenomenal! Even the tear down was excellent, I think it gives us an accurate idea what work needs doing. A very enjoyable video, looking forward to part 2.
Mark Harris cheers pal, I’m glad with how it turned out, looking forward to seeing the whole unit back together and running again now too! Thanks for watching 👍
I love rebuilding old motors. I hate trowing anything out that I can bring back to life. Great job on the total tear down, and on the restoration of the motor. Will have to find part 2.
At approximately 10:50 into the video, the label is peeled off. Here's a tip for those in the future: if you apply heat carefully, those labels will come right off easily. I found that there are two methods that are fairly effective at removing the label without damaging it. One is to apply heat with a torch to the back side on the metal where the label is but you have to be super careful to not get it too hot and burn the adhesive or the label. The other method is to boil water and put a sacrificial rag in it so it's very hot. Remove the rag and place it over the top of the label and that will soften up the adhesive so that the label comes right off. The hot rag in boiling water method is far less likely to cause any damage to the label just as a heads up. Note that you do not wish to apply a wet rag to a paper label, only use it on one of the aluminized labels. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
I acquired a Warco press drill just today. It’s about 90% the same as the one you restored so your two videos are going to be invaluable to me as I start on this my first significant restoration project. Mine is estimated to be 70’s or 80’s and despite the “Warco 2B Drill” badge (Warco are a UK company and still in business) - under the pulley housing cover is another label saying assembled in a Taiwan. So I presume it was badged for Warco and this might explain why so many other commenters on here also have “similar” models but with different brands.Thanks again for all your videos - they are great and inspiring. However, like another commenter on here - I will not be touching the motor!
Thanks for this. I have a similar press. Same head but there are two of them on a bed that weighs about 4 tons. One head completely trashed but this video is my go-to for rebuilding the other one. It will then be placed on a Northern Tools base and shaft and the original table will be repurposed as a welding table.
Fantastic work my friend. I am kinda new to this but I need all the help I can get . I went to school a couple days short f forever to get my PhD in Chemical engineering. I was working in a large chemical plant and was at the wrong place at the wrong time and received burns over 30% of my body and lungs from heated, pressurized mixed acids used for passivation and reclamation processes. During the year that it took me to recover and I am not sure if I am yet, I did much thinking. I really disliked the chemical industry and decided to change my future. The only problem is that I was out of work and ran out of money. I decided to take my hobby which is the building of custom choppers and restoration of vintage motorcycles and tractors along with a sprinkling of rare cars. I was lucky to have people that believed in me and are trusting me to build and or restore their wonderful bikes and vintage Farm tractors. I am on quite a shoestring budget but am working very hard. I wish you were close so you could help me source some metal fabrication equipment that I could restore to then use. I am in Pennsylvania and am right in the middle of Harley country. My specialty is creating cool choppers and bobbers from metric cruisers and Russian Dnepr (and of course BMW) bikes. It seems that the market is there. If I even mention what I am doing in a public place such as WAWA I get two or three people asking if they could drop their bikes off to get them worked on. I started the business but it is not open to the public yet because I have not named it and we are in the Winter now. It is just me so I am happy to be overworked. I built a vapor honing cabinet to be able to offer vapor honing in a few weeks. I found a vintage lathe from Atlas that I am slowly obtaining parts and soon should be running for those hard to source parts.I just found a Drill press for $60 and had to splurge and buy it.So as I write this I am rebuilding a 1969 cb750 custom chopper. It has most of the parts needed . Now comes the hard work. I had fabricated the frame for an XS650 bobber that is beautiful but still needs more fabrication. I really need a TIG welder to finish this so I am on the lookout for a heavily used but loved TIG welder. I obtained a project bike in the form of a KZ750 as a Job from a nice guy in Maryland. Two barn finds in the form of a Farmall cub lowboy and an Oliver 550 with a loader attachment are also on the docket. So I need a sheet metal cutter, bead roller, tubing bender, English wheel , milling machine and probably a later model lathe that I can just get on and use. Maybe I will restore the Atlas and sell it to buy a late model that can do threads. I am so busy but I love what I am doing but could use either some human or machine help. I love your videos and wish I could find some of the old tools to add to my collection to be able to work smarter and not longer...lol Thank you!!
Good job on fixing the motor. I've got a smaller version of this drill press which does not have the vertical table adjustment. Its also made in Taiwan from the 1980's. They must have made zillions of these under various brand names. Mine has Ryobi branding! I inherited mine and I tore it down fully to inspect and service it as it was running a bit on the noisy side. Every bearing needed replacing. That motor looks very similar to mine both externally and internally. Also, if you are wondering what the knob on the lid looks like, its just a small round black plastic knob which you pull outwards slightly then lift up the lid.
How many is zillions? Ha, just being a smart ass, yeah I'm trying to install a center pulley or jackshaft pulley on my Delta so I can step down the speed a bit more, and be able to cut larger holes w/o so many pre drilled steps.
@@BengtRosini13 no problem :) Zillions is more than 'heaps' but less than 'gazillions' ;) Good luck with your Delta mod'. Where did you get a pully wheel for the center one and also the 2 smaller belts to fit on the new configuration?
8/26/22 Glad I found ya my kind of content. Man even with a video reference I’d be overwhelmed putting this back together. Looking forward to the next part.
one heck of a nice job onthe motor ! it looks and sounds amazing running the older electrical motors always had a good quality sound to them !im a retired Woodworker and whenever i can save one of the old ones ona older piece of Machinery i do everything onthe replacement motors just are cheaper and wear out too fast ! i have some of my Fathers things from the 1950s that work fine
I find older motor where made to last, it's generally the parts such as capacitors and brushes that fail and the motors themselves are normally solid! New stuff burns out if you look at it wrong!
I just got the smaller but almost exact version of this in a better quality, can’t wait to restore mine! This video was really helpful in knowing what to expect now.
So eine Maschine läßt man doch nicht vergammeln, ich verstehe die Leute nicht die solche Maschinen einfach abschreiben. Aber jetzt sieht die Maschine wie neu aus, gute Arbeit. Such a machine does not let it rot, I do not understand the people who write off such machines simply. But now the machine looks like new, good job. ☺
That was a great repair on the motor, but I don't think your makeshift fan will cut it for adequate cooling. I think you need larger fins angled for much better airflow across the motor. Hope it's OK - good luck!
I have exactly the same drill press as this, minus the name badge - I'm really glad to see you working your way through this so thoroughly, it'll give me a lot of help fixing the few things that mine needs, so thanks for the effort! I may pester you for bearing sizes in the future... I also have the twin of your Parkinson vice, though again mine's still unrestored. Nice to see that get some love too
I liked your approach to removing the spindle pulley. I've been wanting to install a jackshaft pulley on my drill press to step down the speed more than it does normally. Getting to the underside of the pulley housing to get to the upright post where I can mount the jackshaft has been difficult.
Rarely do motor windings break for a motor to be rewound. Replacing the bearings and the condenser/capacitor solve most of the AC motor problems. Job well done and documented. Maybe others will see this and instead of putting the unit out on the street etc will either give it to someone to repair or fix it themselves. In the U.S. I see so many times motors being left on the street for sanitation department to haul away. It seems it is cheaper to buy something new than fix a machine.
To be fair I could have bought a new press cheaper than it was to restore this one I reckon, would have been made of cheap plastic and flimsy as hell though so I stand by my choice :D! Thanks for watching!
@@sparesorrepair9118 well most new tools and even product are not made to last. They have been invaded by the wall street mantra of planned obsolescence and therefore you are better of repairing older stuff that is solid and work with it.
Sure do appreciate you sharing this information. I have a very similar one which was left to set outside for a very long time but as yours it is otherwise sound and looks to have been used very little. And mine too looks to be well worth the effort just as yours was.Again thank you and I will be looking forward to then follow up.
Woah! That fan that had melted onto the wiring, mad! Motor is looking & working like new now. Your confidence in wiring is something else lol. Looking forward to part 2.
I have nearly the exact same drill press, but in a floor version with a square table. I have/had the same problem with the handles getting loose in the cast iron handle cap. Cleverly (not), the chinese guys drove the roll pin into a one sided hole which holds the handle cap to the steel pinion shaft which raises/lowers the spindle. I bought mine brand new at Home Depot (USA) in about 1987 (mfr 10/86) branded Ohio Forge. Still works great. After removing the handle arms, to remove the cast iron cap from the steel pinion shaft, I drilled a hole with the lathe in the center of the cap since it is like a hollow mushroom. Then I filed carefully into the wall where the roll pin is, and also filed a groove into the roll pin to allow me to pry the roll pin out of the hole a bit until I could grab it with vice grips. Then I used the hydraulic press to push the shaft out of the cap. Then I used the horizontal band saw to cut the end off the cap, and then put it in the lathe to machine it down past the arm holes. Then I created a solid aluminum end that I allen bolted down to the cast iron and redrilled and tapped the arm holes to a standard size. I also machined one end of the arms to a standard thread since the threads on the arm are some strange standard. See some of it here: photos.app.goo.gl/Vn5e6kkjdEPUAt8aA Get yourself a bead blast cabinet; it makes short work instead of spending hours at the bench wire wheel, even on the motor housing. You do beautiful work like an artist.
That's a lot of work, but it looks amazing! I currently don't have the space for any big machinery, but looking to move in the next year and top of the list is room for a huge workshop so I can have a lathe and mill among other things, so I can do proper repairs on old obsolete items just like that! I'd love a sand blaster but I don't have room for the cabinet! I have a cunning plan to fit one in though, watch this space ;)! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I bought one very similar recently and it was in running condition - just dirty .. I gave it a good cleaning but then I realised it had a crack in the casting in the part which sinches the table to the pillar .... since this part has to be tightened and loosened frequently I was afraid that I will eventually snap off , so I returned it , given that cast iron is not an easy feat to weld
I'm restoring an almost identical model from Rexon and though my focus is on the quill and spindle, I want to get a sense of how to determine if the motor bearings require change too. Any advice you can offer? :)
Just in time this video came. My brother gave me an unworking drill press and since i have more time then money i will try to repair it and get it working again
Looks like an earlier version of the one I have here, branded Draper D16/16 dating from the '80s. Mine came from a charity shop for £50 a couple of years back and just need a light strip and clean, plus it really needs a new chuck as the jaws are belled out at the ends and I've got to build a stand for it. FWIW I've added an emergency stop button on the front where you can hit it with your forehead if both hands are full.
These seem to have been branded as alsorts from what I've seen in the comments! I'm going to build a small workbench for this to sit on as I don't want it to live on my main workbench, once it's in place I'm going to add an emergency stop at knee height to the bench, I like them low :D!
le agradesco mucho yo tenia uno de los mismos pero nosabia como aserle la base del motor porque no me vino y ademas una consulta cuando lo bajo todo n se me ve de banda el la cuña donde va el mandril
Machine a duplicate on a lathe based on a pre-planned schematic that you draw up in advance. If there's any doubt as to whether or not your part will work then machine it out of wood as a test piece. If your test piece fails then redesign it. If it's successful then duplicate it out of aluminum. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
I thought I was going to have to rewind it tbh! I know it doesn’t look like I was being particularly careful in the vid, but I took my time and only heated the plastic as much as needed! The enamel did come off of one of the looser wires but I revarnished it before resecuring, got away with it 👌
Great job, fun to watch. As for paint stripper.... Nitromors was great until the EU prohibited certain chemicals and now it's total crap. I'll be interested to see what other products are suggested. If it was me I'd have used my blasting cabinet with very fine media but it would have been a pain with the windings.
Yeah, I'm using nitromors in this video, may as well have chucked feathers at it for a month for all the good it did! Been suggested a few more in the comments, but they're harder to get hold of in the UK as they're for industrial use only... I don't have a blaster (yet), have a very small workshop so if I do want one it will have to be custom made, will need to fold away for storing when not in use. I have a plan in mind, going to restore an air compressor first and then I'll look to fabricate one!
Great Job!!! I believe that drill was in a room with a fire. Not close enough to destroy it, but close enough to melt the fan. I also see the smut on some of the wires. Some of the rusting is caused by the heat. I used to do restorations on fire damaged equipment for a living. I saw this all the time. I do have a question. Where did you find a sliding 2 jaw puller? i need one of those!
Brian Howell I think it was the start cap that’s failed, and some nugget has left it switched on, would easily cause the start windings to overheat! The condition of the rest of the drill is pretty good overall, none of the other bits seem to have been exposed to heat! Could be wrong though, the guy who sold me it said he’d got it for scrap value so anything could’ve happened! I got the puller from amazon many years ago paid about £5, I’ve got much better quality and more expensive ones but this is my go to puller, so easy to use! Thanks for watching 👍
@@sparesorrepair9118 either way, great job! I've never seen a cap cause that. The difference is your on 220ac and I'm on 110. Start caps are wired different for ours. Looking forward to the next video. Thanks for the info on the puller! Cheers!
Thank you for the video! :) What kind of hammer did you use, when you hit those axis into the bearing? I assume, it is not a steel hammer, otherwise it could ruin the axis ends, right?
Paint stripper in the UK, there are loads of different types! I'm found of brown dettol. Something like Nitromores gel would probubly work better on the case.
painstripper-mix it yourself..not the safest chemicals,but works very well-caustic soda and wallpaper glue..has worked for ages(wear safteygoogles and proper gloves!!)
I absolutely love doing projects like this but I never can seem to get everything back together the way it came apart, I always end up with extra parts🤷🏻♂️
Question - the start up capacitor that you test (at 17 mins ) is labelled 120/150 V and 100-125microfarads. My startup is 125VAC and 150microfarads. I do not have a meter that will test it satisfactorily so am going to replace - but why is it a 120/150 V when it is used to start a 240V motor? Shouldn't it be a 240VAC 125microfarad..?
I have that exact same drill press...except mine is branded just "National" and the motor is wired for 110 volts. Everything else looks exactly the same.
Sparky 415 Everythings Adjustable I was amazed those windings managed to pull through after what they’d gone through 😂! Saved me a massive job though so I’m not complaining 😉
It doesn't get used much today as windings are wound by machine, so are tight and precise, but old windings and armatures are generally coated in a varnish to hold the wires in place. If the wires are loose, they vibrate and this adds to the natural humming of the motor making it louder :). I don't know much about the history of this one, the guy I bought it from was going to scrap it because it didn't work, he'd bought it from a scrap metal collector so it was probably kept outside for a while! Thanks for watching!
Beautiful restoration - I love it! My biggest concern is that you picked a really lousy fan! That it was the wrong size is nothing - you resized it beautifully. BUT the fact that the original melted into the windings is a CLEAR indication that the motor overheated - it NEEDS the best possible fan and a multi-blade spiral-form would be much more effective than a 5-blade simple straight-blade unit. I'd like to have seen you check the bearing-specs to show your viewers how vital it is to get the right TYPE - not just the right SIZE!
The question is what caused the motor to overheat ? The readings tell us it wasn't a fault in the windings so maybe it was just because the capacitor failed ? I agree that the replacement fan could be better, but I reckon that it will be adequate as long as the machine is used as intended.
Fantastic video, I am currently restoring a very similar drill press, I need to buy a motor start capacitor can you tell me where you got yours? Thanks tony
Wonderful rebuild of the motor, and that melted fan was a bummer. What make drill press is this..? I have an English or Imperial 1950's made one that hopefully I will be restoring after Xmass. It is as heavy as a Sumo wrestler.
The humming was because of the dead condenser/condensor.... (and maybe the molten fan... I did not see that one coming!!!! ) :D LOL Well done! Looking forward to the rest of the restoration. Subbed and thumbed.
Yeah, definitely, if it hadn't have been seized because of the fan I would have been able to spin it up and bypass the start windings! I was a bit shocked when I opened it up! Thanks for watching and subbing, part 2 coming soon!
Try an automotive paint suppliers for the old style paint stripper the stuff we aren't responsible to use anymore, they sell it in 5Lt cans, think it's nitro methane stripper
