I did the same to my '20 XP 1000. I like your sleeve idea. The metal shop had nothing to fit snug in the cage so I went to the muffler shop and he took the thickest wall pipe he had and swelled it until it fit perfectly. I was able to just use 3" ratchet straps to pull mine all together then weld it up. Makes the machine look much sleeker IMO.
I hate these videos. I was perfectly content with my new toy, now because of you i have to go cut stuff up🤦♂️ nice job good video you got urself a new subscriber 🤘🤘
I can't exactly remember but I want to say yes. The cage is integral to the stiffness of the chassis. Whenever you mess with it it's bound to cause the doors to need adjusting.
I took 5" out of the back hoop and it worked out the same for the supports in the cargo bed. It wasn't hard to line them up but I had a good come-along and a Hydraulic ram at my disposal.
Did relocate the snorkels? If so is there any way you still have the old stock piping? I have been hunting someone that is parting out a highlifter or something so I can get the factory highlifter snorkels off so I put them on my xp turbo. I know it’s a long shot but I figured I’d ask lol. I’ll take whatever you have left of what you took off!! Thanks
I have the back section of my rzr off, and I wanna go ahead and lower it like this, but would it be way off when I put it back on? I know most people do it on the rzr and pull an tweak to match it up .. in my head, I'm thinking, cut the bars, lower it, and then bolt it to the front section of the cage first, then just pull the back down? Would that be easier, or am I way off track?
The problem is that the rear main hoop is wider at the bottom than at the top, so, when you cut out the middle section the remaining top and bottom no longer match up. The bottom needs to be squeezed together and the top needs to be spread apart to match up properly. There are lots of ways to achieve this, it all depends on what tools you have available, but in most cases having the cage on the machine is the only way to get the leverage needed to do while making sure the attachment points don't drift away from where they need to be.
Re-attaching the bolts that connect the roof members to the main hoop was a bit tricky because the connecting plates were no longer flush. I had to use a longer bolt in one of the two holes to get it started. Once it was drawn together a bit I could put one of the original bolts in the second hole, draw it tight, then replace the longer bolt in the first hole with the other original bolt.
Sorry for the slow reply, you comment got held as spam for some reason. My cutter is from Home depot in Canada. Erwin is the brand I think. The cage tube is 1-3/4" so a 2.5" cutter should work. I think mine is only 2".
With the spare tire there is certainly some good body roll but not really a problem for the kind of riding I do. And it's more important for me to have all my cargo up high and dry. Thanks for watching.
An aftermarket cage would certainly be better but the stock cage is plenty for the kind of riding I do. I've actually been in a pretty god roll over with this machine and, although I did have to replace part of the cage, it did it's job. The chop was a fun project that improved the look and allowed it fit in my trailer.
Rustoleum Ultra-Cover Paint+Primer Gloss Real Orange. Its close enough that as long as you have a good transition point you will never notice. I used it to change my beadlock rings to orange as well. Seems to hold up pretty good too if you do good prep and a couple coats.
Really Nice work and making the sleeves and alignment. Very practical inexpensive cage mod. I can't believe more people don't do this verse spending up to $1700 on an aftermarket cage. You can add a simple after market intrusion bar in the front "Intrusion Bar by Aprove" for $185
It's a modification. I can't take credit for it. I saw it in photos and copied it. I get this question a lot so I think I'll do a quick video on it. It's super easy. Stay tuned.
