Safe Motor Oil Flush Using Kerosene 

The roads must be covered in soap where you’re from because that’s the cleanest undercarriage I’ve ever seen!

My old neighbor used to do this .He drained all the old oil ,filled crankcase with kerosene. He pulled coil wire and turned the motor over for a while. He didnt start it. He drained kero put cheap filter and oil in ,drove it around the block. Then he drained oil ,put good filter and oil in .He had over 300,000 miles on a 69 chevy wagon . 327 block . The car outlived him .

I’m 74, been a motor head since I was a kid. This Kerosene method is something I’ve seen for years. Just run the engine until good and warm. Drain off about half to three quarters of the lube, add kerosene or kerosene and diesel mix to the full mark. Then start and let the engine idle for 10-15 minutes. Stop and drain all that old crap out. The install new filter and fresh specified oil. Best way as far as I’m concerned is to only add a quart of type A transmission fluid just before and oil change, do that same. The Automatic Transmission Fluid does not deteriorate the seals and gaskets...

Pipe smoker and engine flusher here. Good vid 🙂 Also the cleanest car chassis I've ever seen

Good to see marv from home alone is on the straight and narrow.

You are pouring the new oil with the container oriented upside down. If you turn it around, the oil will pour smoothly from the beginning instead of glugging.

I work in research and development for a large auto manufacturer. I work with engineers and chemists every day. Most of them have their PhD. The majority of the comments here is nonsense. Its amazing how many fluids weve developed in the lab for technicians to use in dealerships and garages, that have diesel and/or transmission fluid. I remember at one point we were having a problem in some engines. The lab ended up being the group that created a working solution to the problem. It was a 10 ounce bottle that consisted of 90% transmission fluid ( same exact stuff gm uses) and a couple other chemicals. That bottle was labeled our company name and logo. And shipped out for $70 a bottle. Amazing right. We all beleive this shit happens but, we never really know. I always thought that sort of thing happened. But, I didnt know for sure. When I witnessed it my self, for some reason I was amazed. I seen it happen over and over in the last 16 years I've been in r&d. I dont trust anyone. Do what you find works for you and stick with it. That is exactly what they do. They throw things at a problem until something works. Then they charge everyone who asks an arm and a leg for the answer.

a lot may know but for those who don't when pouring oil tip the bottle on its largest side to pour as it reduces the premature ejaculation

It's refreshing to read comments to videos like these and realise 80% of people have no idea what they're talking about. I wouldn't let most of you pump gas into my car let alone work on it.

Wow! That car looks brand new for being a 2002 Saturn that is immaculate!

YEARS AGO A GUY I WORKED WITH DECIDED TO DO THIS HIMSELF!! SOME TOLD HIM TO USE KEROSENE, BUT LOOKING AROUND THE KANSAS CITY KANSAS AREA , HE COULD FIND NO KEROSENE TO PURCHASE! NO PROBLEM , HE THOUGHT, SO HE USED GASOLINE , 2 QUARTS, AND 3 QUARTS OIL! HE THEN STARTED THE ENGINE AND HE THEN DECIDED TO LET IT IDLE FOR 15 MINUTES! HE SAT DOWN ON HIS PORCH AND OPENED A BEER ! AFTER IDLING FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES THE GAS FUMES IN THE ENGINE IGNITED AND BLEW THE PAN AND BOTH ROCKER ARM COVERS COMPLETELY OFF!! LOL LOL, BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD!! LOL 🔥🔥🔧🔧🔧🛠🛠

I've got the exact same oil catching thing! It's so much better than using an old washing up bowl like I used to.

I love you cause you provide videos on how to safely flush your engine.

following someone's advice from a workshop, I did this every 4 oil changes (changed oil every 10k kms). Usually added 0.5 l of kerosene and run for 10 -15 minutes. Did it for 17 years, 250k km. Never had a problem with the engine.

I've had good and bad experiences with flushing engines. Good: People have given me lawnmowers that have smoked. I checked the oil, and it had chunks of carbon in it. Neglect and running the mower in Yuma Arizona when it is 105+ outside. I used some flush, and it loosened up the rings because it quit smoking. BTW: the best thing to run in these air cooled engine is 15w-40. I ran some flush in my '91 Ford Ranger, and the oil pump started knocking because the flush cleaned the varnish that closed the tolerances in the oil pump. Now I run 10-40 and a can of STP to keep it quiet. Another time a friend flushed the engine in his car, and a lifter started knocking. A piece of grit dislodged, got into the lifter, and it would not pump up after that. I ran 15-40 in a very old engine that ran fine, and after a while it started smoking. That high detergent oil cleaned out the carbon or varnish that was helping to push the rings out. My minivan has 148,000 miles on it and it always had the oil changed every 3000 miles. I removed the valve covers to change the gaskets, and the engine looked like it had about 20,000 miles on it. Absolutely clean.

Useful video, however a better order of operation would be: 1. Never use Fram, spend an extra $4-5 and get a Mobil 1, Wix, or Napa Gold filter. Lots of videos on the cardboard construction of most Fram filters. 2. Run the removed oil through a coffee filter to see if there are any shavings, etc. 3. Add oil to your oil filter before installing to reduce further oil starvation upon first start-up. 4. Add your oil first, then the more viscous oil thickener/anti-smoke additive, which if added first will take longer to thin out and actually lubrication going upon first start.

I remember my grandfather doing this to his older vehicles he would drain everything out and then mix 3/4 of kerosene and 2 quarts of cheap oil and fill it back up with that mixture and let it run for 5 minutes drain it all out and then add 2 quarts of cheap oil to push the kerosene out that would lay in the rocker arm galleys and lifter galleys otherwise you would have about a half a pint of kerosene still in the engine when you was done. Just a helpful thought

Ive been using Kerosene since the 80's. Works great.

After you drained the oil it's a good idea to put the plug in and pour straight kerosene into the pan and let it sit then drain it to remove the sludge that sits on the bottom of the pan. I change the filter and Dina 50/50 blend of New Oil and kerosene and run the vehicle for 15 to 20 minutes and drain that oil into a container and use it for flushing purpose ONLY it helps clean sludge .... This internal cleaning helps clean the passages etc of all dirty sentiments that hurt in the engineering I passes in the head and everywhere else... I also take that filter off and save it for future use .... This method is a less expensive commercial engine flush which they charge $100.00 for at most lube outlets .... Your cost 1 filter 2 quarts or litres or oil and 2 quarts or litres of kerosene. Your oil after changes will be clean for a longer period of time

I had a 2000 Jag S-type with an engine full of sludge. Flushed it with kerosene similar to this Cleaned it up perfectly. Drove the car another few years and eventually sold it.

I have done this with 1 gt of diesel per 3-4 qts of oil and it worked fine. I would not do it unless you know you have a sludge issue as there is risk in doing this. I would do this when the risk of doing nothing outweighs the risk of doing it. I did this on both a 95 Saturn SC2 and an 89 4.3 Blazer. Both engines had so much sludge that fresh oil after an oil changed looked as bad as what I took out. After doing this fix, new oil (oil in the pan with only a test run on it) remained clean looking for several thousand miles. I agree, if you use better oil, you might never have to do this.

To all the people that say Kerosene and Diesel are ruining his seals...gasoline is just a lighter version of both Kerosene and Diesel...made from the SAME dino oil (and synthetic is just chemically combined natural gas molecules)...plus he didn't drain ALL the oil...he only diluted both the dirty oil with clean Kerosene, then idled for 10 min or so (no heavy load on the engine or the hydrodynamic wedge of the crank bearings)...then drained...not going to damage the seals...because if Kerosene or Diesel damaged them...then gasoline blowby getting into the oil would damage it as well... Newer oils with better friction/viscosity modifier packages, anti foaming, controlling chemical breakdown and contamination, plus seal conditioner additives are much less likely to sludge up than older oils... Hence the better API/SAE "SN" or better rating of most modern oils... www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm

You must live in a non-snowy area, that oil pan/undercarriage looks new!

Saw you weren't pouring the oil out of the container properly, next time instead of pouring out with the hole on the bottom, try pouring the Quart of Oil with the hole or opening at the top, you'll see it'll pour Smoother. Love how your using Kerosene and give the appropriate warnings how to use and when.

I can agree with some of these comments. That undercarriage is in phenomenal shape and it's nice to see someone that takes care of vehicle like me, especially a Saturn. Were always great cars. Although I like Lucas in my Jeep with my Saturn's I ran restore that pretty much fixed the blow by

I remember one of the ace mechanics back in the 50's draining out a quart of oil and adding a qt of kerosene, running it not much above idle, never driving it until hot then flushing. Great flushing agent but hardly a new discovery.

All it takes is change oil ahead of any recommended timeline using a good oil that meets the specs and you'll never ever have sludge in your engine.

Nothing compares with Australian product called ‘flushing oil concentrate ‘ from cost effective maintenance, best oil flush I’ve ever seen!

when you dran the oil there is a bit left in the engine....so that means a bit of kerosene will mix with the new oil and change its chemistry.....i just use mobil1 all the time

D00d! This is the right way to flush an engine! Kerosene, not #2 deisel fuel, ever! I did this with my Rambler in the 70s, I was told to use only one quart to 4 qts oil, idle only for one hour. Good job here only idling for ten minutes really, that is enough for newer engines that aren't full of sludge already. My old Rambler was pretty filthy inside. Good video, nice editing and Bravo! More Cow Bell, you're using Kerosene.

I flushed my truck with diesel and the amount of grit that washed out was incredible.

Last year I sold my 16 year old vehicle with over 300,000 miles on it. The engine ( Ford 4.6 v8 ) had no sludge and was as clean as the day it came off the showroom floor. ( Still had the original transmission with no work or trouble ) The engine never needed any type of cleaning or work and never used more than a 1/4 qt between oil changes. Always used a good filter ( not Fram) and Pennzoil conventional 5w30 per the manufacturer. Changed the oil every 6 months or 4000 miles. If you take care of your engine, you should never need to clean it. Oil changes are cheap. If you do flush with kerosene even after you drain it and add new oil the new oil will remain contaminated and will cause damage to your motor and again will need replaced within a few hundred miles. As a oil professional I would never recommend putting anything other than oil in the crankcase. A good oil and filter will clean the engine over time if it's changed regularly.

To all the haters that comment on killing his motor .... my 51 hornet calls for a kerosene flush once a year from the factory manual . Car today with good detergent oils probably don’t need this ..... but let’s actually think before we speak , unless you have done it and killed your engine , your opinion is crap . Like I said flathead engines with non detergent oil back in the day , This was the only recommended way to clean sludge

Its a good idea to fill your oil filter with fresh oil before installing, so the engine gets lubrication right away, rather than having the oil pump fill it up, and air bubbles in the oil passages on start up. Can't say i recommend lucas oil stabilizer since it gums up and turns into a hard cement

Worked in bodyshop years ago where one co worker would drain the oil filter first and fill it with kerosene and run the motor for a minute , then drain the oil.

I use very thin cheap oil. Run for one hour drain and let drip for 2 hours. New filter fresh correct oil and off you go. Happy driving.

I did it once, it's effective and safe. Sovled camshaft oiling problem in my 1978 opel ascona.

Just a tip, it's easier to pour without chugging if you turn the bottle with the front or back label facing you

You were doing so well - flush - oil drain - lucas - even removed a Fram filter - but then replaced it with another Fram filter. Dude.

im a footwear manufacturer and i use kerosene to loosen excess neoprene adhesives.Kerosene really softens up those tough spillage.Imagine what it'll do to your rubber seals.

You pour your oil in upside-down. Flip the bottle over and it will flop out less. There's a reason there's a sloped side on the bottle ;).

You gota love those older twin cam Saturn engines; they go forever. Ive used the kerosene flush to clean up and hopefully quiet lifter tap lifters on older engines. 20 to 25% Lucas for blowby? Anything more than 10 to 12% for a forced induction race engine qualifies for a rebuild. That much for a gasoline daily driver means its time for at least rings possibly new pistons or time to find a buyer for the car. Being an original Saturn engine I would rebuild it without thinking twice.

I’ve done this twice so far. On A 2001 Highlander V6 1MZ and a 95 camry 2.2. It’s been years since I’ve done it, I use a little bit of marvel in each vehicle at each oil change and they both work great no issues at all. I did change oil after 3 days of driving each of them when I finished the flush and drained it out. Also I added a quart in each vehicle and did not drain any oil prior to adding a flush.

If you are suffering from blowby issue, use 20 points up viscosity (if using 10w30, go for 10w50) engine oil instead of putting in lucas viscosity improver which loses its viscosity rather quickly Advice from experience.

I've used fram extra guard with conventional oil on my 2015 Nissan Versa, did the oil changes every 5k on regular conventional oil with fram extra guard and no problems. Now I'm running full synthetic with Bosh filter and still no problem. It doesnt matter what filter or oil you use as long as you change it at the recommended interval.

I just change the oil religiously at 8k or one year, whichever comes first. During it’s last service, the mechanic said he’d have happily put the old oil from my car into his own. If you change the oil when you’re meant to, you won’t get sludge.

There are two types of engine flush products, detergent Base and solven base. Solvent Base flush will damage your engine seals. Detergent Base is what used in high quality synthetic oil, just higher concentration and it will not damage your engine seals. However, it will clean up your engine.

I threw almost a full can of SuperTech Motor Teatment in my old 302 with old oil. The blow by seemed to have greatly reduced and nearly no smoke from exhaust pipe. Then I changed the oil. I used 1gal of diesel oil and two quart bottles of Oil Stabilizer. All SuperTech brand. It now smokes from both ends worse than before the Motor Treatment was add. On the bright side though. The low end rattle has nearly stopped now when the throttle is burped.

Your braver than me mate I’d be too scared of stuffing up a rubber seal...... make matters worse...

100,000 Mile Tune-Up, so which is better with your experience, diesel or kerosene? Did you use those two products because it cleans the engine better over conventional engine flush products? What was your approach to all this?

You should do voiceover for documentaries. I feel like I'm watching the History channel

Thanks for sharing 👍

I was just telling my wife how I had helped my father do this exact flushing process to his Chevrolet C10 in 1978 I was wondering if this method was still in use thanks for showing us

kerosene won't harm seals unless if you use the gasoline.. here in the philippines sometimes we can't afford that flushing oil in cans.. as a substitute for that we kerosene.. and it's effective and more affordable we use it in both engine petrol and diesel and it did good..

After the video I have more questions than I have answers. How is that Saturn cleaner underneath than it is on top?

ran 2 gallons of diesel in my ls1 at idle until coolant temps hit 200f. checked oil filter no metal. I always use mobile 1 5-30. still running strong

great concise vid on how to & a list of alternate options for flushingthanks for taking the time to put this together

There's your main problem. Using the most worthless oil filter in the world. Sure, it's got a grip on the end, but the crap filter material inside blows out allowing unfiltered oil to just bypass the filter.

wow, the bottom of your car is clean as new, cant believe it is a 2002 car

I have done this with a different aproach, i first removed all the old oil, added cheap new oil, filter and a complete bottle of flush, this let me see if the color of this new oil change (turn darker) because it's removing some Sludge, otherwise with the old dark oil you Will not know. In my case because of my frequent oil changes, the new oil gets out pretty clean...

Great guide, does this method also restore initial engine compression and pressure the way additives like Bizol o90 system oil clean + does? And what are it's pros and cons as compared to say that bizol product? Thanks

This looks good but does the kerosine attack rubber sealed and gaskets......

Its the valve guide seals in that particular engine iv had 3 of those cars

At 100,000 miles it is also very important to clean the PCV, the carter ventilation. The fumes and blowby go back to the engine through the intake system. This get's clogged up over time and causes underperformance and problems.

it will also wash out the rings and with an old engine, it will smoke and really burn oil.

In the video it looks like you flushed this particular car two other times using other flushes. So you have 3 hundred thousand miles on this car when using Kerosene?

Kerosene is the active ingredient in many engine flush products and many years ago was the cheapest most popular method to cleanse engines. Technology has since moved on and it has been proven the dangers of flushing engines with Kerosene outweigh the benefits for both modern and older engines.

Can you do it with diesel engines? I am a bit hesitant as ignition occurs from compression not spark plugs and might blow the head gasket???

Holy crap friend. Fram oil filters? Pouring the oil forwards instead of sideways?

At 5:33 you add Lucus to fix the blow-by problem, you would be better off with RESTORE because it can fill the scratches causing your engine problem. No engine flush or oil additive can fix a badly worn engine but the restore stuff does wonders to improve compression.

I use diesel to flush out then let it drip overnight. been doing this for my truck & sub for 5 years & it's great. better change oil your self than others do it for you.

Drain out all the old oil and refill with circa 4 litres of diesel. Remove the plugs and spin the engine over on the starter several times and drain out. Refill with approx 2.5 litres of new oil with a new filter. Run the engine to temperature, drain and refill with another new filter. Job done. My 1.4 16valve Fiesta has done 145k miles and ive done this at 40k, 80k & 120k miles. The engine runs like new, the oil stays yellow between services ( every 3k miles) and uses absolutely no oil. Bore scoping still shows the factory cross hatching..

im curious if kerosene is aa oily as diesel. i still cannot stop appreciating how clean that oil pan is.

how you will remove rest of kerosine from engine-it always left some amount even you leave to drain it for long time, and then it will dilute new oil. better is to change oil when it start to be dark, so there will not left any dirt, sludge, etc. i change oil every 3000-4500 miles, and engine is very clean( as new) from inside-checked when removed heads for porting

I use BG EPR. I've used it on saturns with blowby problems and it reduces or removes them completely. Removes carbon from piston rings and makes them seal better. I have personally done all the research on all the products and they do what they claim.

If you read this guys video description he is exactly right.

I have heard a good flush will increase the oil pressure if pick up tube screen is dirty

When valve stem and other engine seals contact with Kerosene, most likely will cost you complete engine rebuild. you can test it yourself put a valve stem seal or any seals in kerosene.

good old chevron supreme! damn good oil

Regular oil hot oil changes and a good filter will keep your car going for a lot of distance. This type of thing to me with the modern oils we have is unnecessary. This may have been ok for a Model T Ford. Regular servicing folks

diesel engine oil is a very good flush.

Usage of the Orange Can of Doom oil filter aside, how the hell do you keep the undercarriage so clean?

What does that kerosene do to the engine seals and the bearings? I'm guessing there's a reason why the manufacturers manuals suggest putting nothing in your engine except the recommended grade of oil.

RUN the engine for a minute or so, before checking the oil. The filter will take up some of the oil as it primes. A filter that size may hold up to 1/2 of a quart. When measuring the amount of oil, the dipstick may show above the full mark, until the engine has been run, and the filter has completely filled.

Hey when you have the time could you please do a video on changing the Valve cover Gasket on the Suzuki forenza? That is if your Suzuki needs it..Love The Videos so far

One thing worth noting too folks is not to leave the oil filter on while draining the oil ( think of when you hold your finger over a straw and you can maintain water inside the straw until you let your finger off ), you are better off to loosen the oil filter straight after you remove the sump plug and also take the oil cap off the top of then engine - that way it creates a nice "vacum" if you like through the engine from top to bottom and helps remove all the oil out everywhere. Otherwise with the oil filter left on, you can get residual oil remaining in and around the filter and engine galleries.

When changed per manufactures recommended interval, modern engine oils and engine designs do not produce any “sludge”. How did you come to the conclusion kerosene is “safe”?

I recommend using SeaFoam (1 oz per qt of oil) every 20,000 miles after 100k miles on engine. With 5,000 mile oil changes. Best is to stay on top of regular oil changes. There is no substitute.

I use 1 bottle of MMO about 300miles before I do an engine oil change. And I do it at every oil change. Will that spoil the engine?

I used one of the Commercially available engine oil cleaners, at the insistence of a relative. Next thing I was doing, was tearing into the Engine to replace the Valve Seals. If you do the recommended oil changes with a Synthetic or Hybrid Synthetic Oil, you should never need to flush the oil passages. This of course, is not having a leaking head, leaking antifreeze into the oil.

No matter how long you drain your mixture for, you will always have kerosene left in those passages and in your head... so when you put your new oil in it'll be contaminated by the kerosene... Kerosene will break down the chemical composition of the oil, that or a bit of dirty carbon / sludgy deposits, which is worse? I used to to do flushes like this (and the flush aditives) on my cars / pump motors / lawnmowers etc, I LOVE golden oil on the dipstick after MILES of driving... but that's not worth the harm you do in the long run... A better idea is to use cheap (and even maybe a thinner grade) but proper oil as a full flush (normal oil change - without a new filter...) Then after about 150km of driving do another proper oil change with your preferred brand of good quality oil and your new oil filter. When you drain the cheap oil, you can keep it for your next oil change / flush.

Everything was going fine until he spun on the orange fram filter

Smart way to do it.

I would like to see this done with 2 quarts of brand new oil. And see what new gunks come out after the first oil change.

Old school you dont run motor just drain directly thru then let drip adding oil right behind changing again after couple hundred miles But are the seals different now?

I use to use fram oil filters, never again . I had 2 of them plug up and the filtering material looked like sponge falling apart.

Ok..Something to consider..Depending on mileage or terrible missed/ misused servicing..Any engine with excessive Sludge/Carbon byproducts are questionable when attempting to Flush Materials..Safest way out of all methods is ATF..One quart added/ Run at idle to 2000 rpm for 1 hour/ No driving/Vehicle parked/ Fire Extinquisher Safety/ Drain and Oil Change Filter Service...Sludge/ Carbon removal may have been holding seals and rings and bearings together..Be ready for Big Repairs if something happens...Used vehicles with no records are the worst.....

Anyone who has rebuilt an engine knows that the oil galleries and passages rarely become clogged with sludge. It is most in the pan or caked on non-contact surfaces in the crankcase or valvetrain area. Only in the very worst cases does this happen. Performing a Full Volume Oil Change, double flush, with a fully formulated oil and letting the detergents and dispersants do their job will be more affective and 100% safe. Using a solvent is never safe. I see from your multiple videos and admission that you flush your engine quite often, not just at the 100k mile mark. This might explain the high blow-by and oil consumption. These Gen I Ecotec engines are known for their longevity. May want to cut back on the solvents and use 100% oil. The average spill and fill will leave behind 10-20% of oil. Companies use this fact to push their gimick flushes, making think the dark oil that comes out of the pan is their product cleaning the engine. You get the same affect by just flushing with clean oil and driving it on the highway for 30 minutes. It will come out dark. Next time, perform a double flush, then add your favorite flush product and see what it looks like.

like how you don't fill the vid with useless commentary 👍

I my opinion after using motor flush, make an oil change, to clean and absorb the remaining motor flush. After a 30 minutes change the oil again and the filter. Only then you have a clean engine