Safe Engine Flush Using Diesel Gasoline 

I used to flush with diesel but I did it different; I would drain old oil and add straight diesel then start the engine and let it idle for one minute. I would then wait for twenty minutes with engine off to let the diesel get into any sludge etc. I would then restart the engine and let it idle for another minute then shut engine off again and wait another twenty minutes. I would then restart for one minute, shut engine down and drain the diesel then add new oil and filter. Waiting the two twenty minute periods allowed for the sludge to breakdown and come out/off. I found this system worked well with no noticable problems.

Thx for mentioning that flush is rough on seals & gaskets. Not everyone knows that.

I flushed my turbo twin airplane with diesel fuel then I loaned it to my ex-wife and her pilot husband to visit his mother in Florida. It made it to Arkansas before the engine seized at 12,000 ft. Good Job and thanks for the tip. and I don’t care if you do call it Diesel gasoline.

Thank goodness, I'm glad I tried doing it first and yet read all the comments. My engine run's so smooth and saves my gas alot.thanks you

If he’s calling it diesel gasoline that should tell you something

I've been flushing engines with diesel for over 50 years, always good & never ruined anything. The old red ATF worked well and so does Marvel Mystery oil. Too many people who complain about the results were trying to resurrect a shot engine looking for some magic, then blame the diesel or whatever solvent they tried in desperation.

I bought a used Porsche with about 55,000 miles on it and took it to an oil change shop that offered a heated solvent oil flush that filtered the solvent through a large pleated white filter that was connected where the oil filter was. I was able to watch the solvent go from its original clear color to a brown color as it dissolved away sludge and deposits from the engine. After that I had a fresh oil filter and some cheap conventional oil of the proper viscosity put in that I ran for about a day. After that I changed the filter again and then put in high quality full synthetic(Redline) oil. The engine ran like a champ for over 150,000 more miles, using very little oil between oil changes.

I have done this on a diesel car, and the result was good, no problem at all, I recommend this type of flushing, it is really harmless in my opinion.

Love the way he drains the oil with no gloves,then puts gloves on to tighten drain plug

I've flushed out multiple high hp engines with diesel fuel with great results. The diesel will break down the sludge,not clog oil passages as most commenters are suggesting. Remember,the diesel fuel shouldn't be in the engine for more than a couple minutes. Drain and then flush with fresh oil 2-3 times.

Can’t say I’ve done this in petrol cars, but my diesel Passat wagon and ducato motorhome have had a diesel only flush done every 3rd service. Passat only has 110,000km on it (66,000 miles roughly) but the motorhome over 280,000km. I only run the engine for a minute or so, not 5, then drain overnight and new oil and filter next day. These used to be dirty diesel engines but now take several thousand km’s before the oil turns black, where it used to happen instantly. Not sure on petrol engines as they seem to run clean, but for diesel engines my father taught me this trick to prolong engine life and it’s worked for him, and seems to be treating me well

I did a diesel flush on a Subaru 2.2 with a ticking lifter. Worked like magic (yes 2.2 had hydraulic lifters )

After flushing the diesel/oil mix, you MUST then add the minimum amount of oil to safely run the engine and let it idle for about 5 minutes. Then drain that oil. This will assure that ALL of the diesel fuel has been drained. If you don't do this extra step you will have too much diesel remaining in the crank case and throughout the engine. Then when you add the final new oil the viscosity rating of that oil will be changed in a very negative way and during the next few thousand miles you will be slowly damaging and wearing the bearings out in the engine from that lower viscosity. You will not have the proper protection if its diluted with that left-behind diesel fuel from the first flush.

I was going to do it on my 2004 Scion xB with 302K miles until I heard about the diesel being hard on seals and gaskets. Thanks anyway, good video.

Marvel Mystery Oil and Diesel together might be an ultimate combination. I usually put one quart MMO in at every other oil change. It keeps the internals clean and working perfectly without ever having to flush the engine. It’s done well for 30 years of me doing this.

After draining the diesel and oil mixture, I would have added another couple of litres of fresh oil to flush out any diesel fuel remaining in the base of the sump just to be safe

My '04 Ford Escape developed a loud, very noticeable ticking sound after it warmed up. One needs to understand the inner components working in an emgine. In my case, as well as many other vehicle brands, lifters are designed to operate in an independent manner between valve openings. There's a small port opening on the side that gets covered up upon required use of the lifter to open the valve. If that port becomes plugged from sludge (failure to change oil and filter at regulate intervals, or sediment contamination from outside source), the lifter can be stuck full of oil (solid lifter) or won't let any oil in at all, creating what's called, a flat lifter. There are many products on the market that help clean and flush the engine internally. All contain the same desired chemicals. Solvents and or detergents. Whatever the differences of these product solvents and detergents are is irrelevant. Their performance is what matters. Marvel Mystery Oil is a great engine cleaner. Use exactly as directed. In the case of my Ford Escape, my mechanic (Very trustworthy, capable and reasonable guy) told me to add a quart of transmission fluid to the engine, on top of the oil already In the engine. Start and run (at IDLE ONLY) for 30 minites. Drain the oil and remove the filter. Put new oil in and new filter. Drive for 100 miles. Change oil again. Within 5 minutes of the engine warming up, the lifter noise disappeared. Transmission fluid has excellent lubrication and detergent properties. I have not had a problem since. Using diesel fuel in the manner and quantities described in this video is safe. As with the transmission fluid technique, run the engine at IDLE ONLY. Don't rev it up. Don't drive it. Otherwise, everything the method he used is perfectly acceptable. The best method overall is to use high quality oil, high quality filters and change them often. Brand new cars under warranty should be changed regularly by the dealership. After warranty, continue to change oil regularly and flush at least once a year or so. With whatever technique you feel comfortable with.

I used to do the similar method, where i used to drain the old engine oil, fill the engine with Diesel and then half crank the engine not letting it start for maybe a second or half and then used to drain it and blow the high pressure air from input and have it remaining diesel and vapors comes out from drain plug and then pour the new engine oil and change oil filter. Never faced any issues, engine used to run light.

Just love that Saturn doing all that fancy work to it

THE ONLY THING YOU NEED TO DO TO EXTEND ENGINE LIFE IS TO DO VERY REGULAR OIL AND FILTER CHANGES. NOTHING ELSE.

It's okay folks. It was only a Saturn. How much more damage could it cause?

Sure, I’ll listen to a guy who thinks “diesel gasoline” is a thing.

lets all pause for a moment at :06 and admire that Diesel price of $ 2.85 .... RIP

Most of this is common "Old School" tech, and hardly needed today. In the 60's, detergent oils had come of age, but nothing close to what we have today. Engine flushes were the norm for engine longevity. My grandfather maintained all his fleet of logging trucks, heavy equipment and personal vehicles by flushing regularly. And yes... he did this with straight diesel fuel. As others have commented, he let an already warm motor idle (and ONLY idle) for about 5 minutes, then drain, replace the filter and refill with fresh oil. I could see this still being used if you bought an older engine of unknown condition and wanted a maximum flush, but most oils today do pretty good at cleaning on their own, and synthetic more so.

I see alot of negative comments about flushing an engine with diesel fuel and I can guarantee you this works. If you have a neglected engine with sludge or your oil had water or coolant enter the oiling system, this is the way to go. I've been doing this for years on marine engines.

I like how he drops crankcase plug in with the diesel. Maybe he's trying to clean that too lol

Flushing a enging is only for people that have ocd. It's not like rinsing your bowl that you had soup in the night before to get it cleaned to put your cereal in the next morning. I have cars and trucks that have 300,000 to 400,000 and a semi truck that had 1.3 million. They never had one diesel flush. Why put something in your engine that if you ran it long enough it would blow up. The two best things you can do if you want to keep a motor clean. One is to add one quart of ATF to your oil a couple hundred miles before your oil change and also make sure you change your oil on a regular basis . 3000 miles or less. Don't use synthetic oil. It's a waste of money. When they tell you that you can go over 3,000 Mi it's bs. Just because the oil is a little bit more durable doesn't mean it's going to get dirty and contaminated any slower😊

I didn't see any sludge coming out? I thought that fresh oil was gonna get all dark with all of the sludge but it came out clean, something is wrong

Engine Restore is safe if you closely follow the directions. Frees up sticky valves and piston rings.

4:12 yea but how much pressure was it making huh? Healthy engine can survive this kind of flush, but some may not, especially those without brass cam bushings.

Best bet to add 1/2 a qt or a full qt of marvel mystery oil or transmission fluid to the oil about a few days, up to a week worth or 100 to 500 miles of running the engine before you change it then just change it like normal. Can do this every oil change and it will keep your engine squeaky clean on the inside. I change oil and filter every 5000 to 7000 miles and have been doing this for many years. I've got a little over 400,000 on my Dakota with original engine and no rebuilds, and it doesn't use a drop of oil between changes and it still runs good. I've used different kinds of engine flush in the the past, including diesel, and found that MMO or transmission fluid, either one works best.

There is a product called WYNN'S ENGINE TUNE-UP. Put it in your oil follow the instructions. A 5$ product developed by a reputable company. You could also used seafoam, MMO, among others. Only use stuff that is compatible with motor oil and does not destroy it. If you can't drive with the stuff in the crank case don't put it in.

I actually saw someone flush a Isuzu engine using straight diesel fuel . All I can say is it worked for my friends dad . He drove the little truck everyday for a few more years .

Good practice for a dirty motor. Cheaper and better than motor flush which is too weak due to liability purposes. After doing this, on refill of oil substitute 8oz of Seafoam or 32 ounces Marvel Mystery Oil (or any transmission fluid) will further clean the motor between 4,000 oil changes. Some oil screens are accessible thru the drain hole with a toothbrush. Not a bad idea to scrub it and then fill pan with additional clean diesel thru the dipstick hole and mildly flush out the bottom of the pan and screen. Some of these remarks. They clueless.

Thanks. I have been using 50 50 diesel + oil as flush for years. So I get half diesel mixed with new oil to make it good flush then once flushed drain and refill with synthetic.

Most diesel sold at the pump today contains a certain low percentage of biodiesel. The biodiesel improves fuel lubricity that is lacking when sulfur compounds are removed during refining to meet clean air standards. The biodiesel, essentially methyl esters, is a powerful but non volatile solvent that breaks up grease and sludge very well. Too well, in some cases, ask in when large diesel ferryboat fleets switched to high biodiesel blends and then experienced rapid clogging of fuel strainers and filters, leading to engine shutdown from fuel starvation.

I fully agree with your flushing video using diesel fuel. Years ago I was driving a Pontiac Grand Prix with a 400 cubic inch engine. I was cash poor and only changed the oil occasionally, never before 10,000 miles But every other year I flushed the motor with 4 quarts of Diesel and 1 quart of fresh Pennzoil I then added 5 quarts of straight 30 weight Pennzoil. I drove the car 465,00 miles without any kind of engine failure.and never had the heads off. To this day I still use Pennzoil, but now with my PTGT ( turbo) I use 5 30 weight oil ( factory recommended viscosity ) It is a 2003 model with 184,00 trouble free miles.Thanks for sharing...Mr. Randolph.

Fastest way I know of to plug up the oil passages to main and rod bearings when all the sludge breaks loose.

Scotty Kilmer will love this

Make sure there is enough anti-wear in the flush. Mixing first will help. Adding Zinc (ZDDP), will help. Be more careful with solid lifter valve-train and extra stiff valve springs!

The fact that you’re using a FRAM filter tells me everything I need to know. #garbage

in the 70 and 80,s we just used to buy a cheap oil and run the car on that for 100 miles then change it for premium oil. And that cheap oil is good to use again for flushing at a later date.

Another fine example of the statement " OK video maker, poor mechanic."

Thank you for providing a video on how to flush your engine without damaging it further. I just did this on all of my cars and I will recommend this method to all of my friends! I also used kerosene to flush my cooling system and that also works.

I'm quite secure that if u remove the oil pan there is still a lot of dirt

I did this on a 4 wheeler that went a lot too deep. I filled the crank case completely and drained it a couple times before I brought it to proper level and actually ran the engine. I also flushed the diesel out with oil until it smelled normal.

On time scheduled oil changes with usage of synthetic motor oil and synthetic oil filter, while using the correct motor oil type and amounts, also might have to top up every now and then between oil changes, will keep the engine clean and well lubricated, which will keep it running well for long long time without issues or very little issues if any.

Sea foam can be used as a flush. Directions are on the can... it will not damage seals.

What ever you say guys, But his Saturn is in Great condition!!!

I flushed my crankcase with diesel this week and the amount of grit that flushed out was incredible. Will be looking for oil leaks but I don't think the diesel was in there long enough to cause any problems.

I used 1qt diesel mixed in oil on my rav4 lemon buy but it helped. Ended up needing a lot more cleeaning than that but still running good over a year later.

Comments and people are so stupid ! Flush the engine with diesel is a wellknown practice. But people prefer to buy "THE" product sale in the best shop of their town and this product will transform their engine in a very good caramel !! :-) Nice video dude.

Many moons ago when men were men and goats were nervous, I did this on an Onan 2 cylinder air cooled engine. The result was that it needed a rebuild thereafter. I'd sooner do an extra oil change in between the scheduled oil changes and flush the engine that way, much safer and kinder to the engine

true enough, in Asia we normally call diesel fuel

in Indonesia also doing the same thing with you, and now it's going viral using cooking oil as a flushing ingredient for the mixture

Scotty Kilmer would not approve this.

I really want to say bad stuff. I'm leaving now.

I use also mixed diesel fuel and engine oil to flush my 91 corolla. Been doing it for five years now so far the oil seal and gasket ar still good. I di this procedure once a year

SIR CAN YOU TELL ME PLEASE, HOW MUCH AMOUNT OF DIESEL AND FRESH OIL SHOULD I USE DURING FLUSHING. PLEASE TELL ME THE EXACT QUANTITY

I run my car on LPG. It is incredible how clean it burns. The engine is bright shiny clean inside, like when it was new.

Iv used this method for 20 years, , with high mileage cars and low mileage, leaving the diesel in the motor up to a week for a full thorough clean, results are amazing. , motor wise, very quiet and more responsive, , ........

Just be careful NOT to plug the oil pump pick up screen. If engine oil is changed frequently there is NO need to flush an engine.

Thanks...I am going to try diesel in my lantern

Don't trust those ramps to not collapse. You need steel jack stands for better support. Other than that, good work.

Good method if you're trying to clean a really dirty engine. If it's not so dirty I'd recommend flushing the engine with regular oil, meaning just change it more frequently

I use a similar procedure to bring back to service a marine engine that had beed flooded, I use WD40 instead of diesel fuel. Without turning over the engine, I flush the crankcase and I fill with half and half mixture of oil and WD40, I start the engine and let it run idle up to normal operating temperature, I repeat the procedure with a mixture of 1/4 WD 40 then I change the oil filter and reinstall normal oil. that has well served me up to date

The engine oil also have detergent agent that can clean up all carbon deposits in the engine.just change the engine oil frequently follow the range of mileage.

What I do during oil changes is that after the oil stops dripping, I will pour 1/2 quart of fresh oil to push any remaining old oil in the pan and it works.

There was once a fuel product available called dieseline. My grandad used it in his 1950 Farmall tractor. He also flushed during oil cjange but only putting a bit through to get the remainsvof old oil out. Im glad this shows that this cleaning is only suitable for deep sludge issues. Older engines might have a problem with valve seals if you put a solvent in .

Add in 1 or 2 liters of Dexron or Mercon ATF, to the crankcase, then run it and drain it. Cleans well, and without harming the gaskets and seals.

I flushed my old vw golf with new oil and just 0.5 liter of diesel. Ran it att fast idle for 15 min and the oil was really dirty afterwards so I guess it worked. The loud valve ticking also disappeared.

Have used diesel fuel to clean engines for many years including lawnmowers etc ... it works wonders .. also my uncles used transmission fluid aswell.. sort of like using vegetable oil in my 2004 VW diesel tank i gained horsepower and the inject pump was near silent.

For an older engine that hasn't seen regular oil changes in a long time this might be ok. I had a 57 Willys Jeep that saw nothing but non detergent oil. I did this several times as the engine was so gunked up it wasn't funny. What I got out of the engine was unbelievable. Would I do this to a properly maintained vehicle? Not on your life unless it was severely neglected.

I recently got a van, and the guy swapped the engine into it. I'm assuming it was from a pick your part yard because there's slight rust inside it when i changed the spark plugs. Would an engine flush help rust inside the crankcase?

Is this guy being sponsored by auto breaker yards. This is absolute madness.

Simple question : WHY !!!

Now drive the car for around 100 miles then change the oil and filter again. The solvent has loosened crap in the engine that's now stuck in the filter and some solvent is still in the oil that was trapped in the oil pump. You will be surprised how dark the oil is after such a short time. I've done this many times on high mileage motors but Marvel Mystery Oil 100 miles before oil change does the same thing and it's gentler on the valves and rings. Take too much crap out too fast and you'll end up using oil and having leaks. Diesel is cheaper but MMO is better. It's your car and money.

Just use Marvel Mystery Oil. It's cheap and it works. Diesel like you said can damage seals. MMO won't but basically does the same thing. The last thing you want to do is harm the rear main.

I did this to my 64 Ford Galaxie 351 Windsor motor which used to smoke like hell, I drained the oil, put in 5 quarts diesel fuel, let it run until the engine temperature got hot, drained it, put in new oil and filter, drove it for a couple of days, then changed the oil and filter again and car never smoked after that and it ran great for 1000's of miles after. I kept the car for 3 more yrs after doing that, I'm not sure if I would do that to some of these newer engines today but it did the trick in the old engine???

I watched my grandfather pour straight coal oil in his cars and drive it about 2-3 miles. He didn’t take any oil out but added the pint of coal oil. Said if the tappets weren’t ticking you didn’t do it long enough. Run it out hot. He said that he learned it working on a farm driving tractors. He also said that the tractor he drove was struck by lightning with him on it. Burned all of wiring off and broke the globe to the shut off filter. They left it there and worked around it.

If I ever see you pulled over on the side of the highway I'm just gonna keep on going!

Follow this way you may have ruined your engine.

At 100,000 miles the best thing you can do to a Saturn is a new timing belt.

Just use 100% synthetic motor oil,it is highly detergent and will keep inside of engine clean.

So many things are just wrong with this video.

ok, my question..is it safe for the oil seal or rubber seal in the engine?

Way back before all the magic of chemistry We used to put in one quart of diesel, starting with a hot engine and we were usually down a quart anyway, run it for a couple of minutes and then change oil and filter. Not sure how good it was but We were usually way over on our change. Remember We were young, dumb and broke.

This is why I'm terrified when I buy used cars.

This is an improvement from his last video where he used blinker fluid instead..

Ok so, do not do this. I work at a vehicle dismantling company. We sometimes use cars that come in for a month or two before they get scrapped. I tried this on an old engine which had an oil pressure gauge. Before and After the flush it had 20psi at idle. Not too bad, but before the flush revving past 2k would read 50psi. After the flush revving to 2k stayed at 20psi. Now it did eventually rise back again after a couple of days and about 100 miles. And after 500 miles the gauge suddenly dropped to zero. We took the engine apart and all the dirt cleaned by the diesel was blocking the oil pickup. Not to mention diesel eats rubber for fun. So if you want to kill your engine. Flush it with diesel

The ultimate test of this: "Hey mister--we're trying something here. Can we borrow your Ferrari for a few hours? We can? Thanks! We'll bring it right back."

There is no such product as "Diesel Gasoline". There is Diesel Fuel however. They are not to be mixed together.

What? Diesel gasoline? Do you keep it next to your semi-fully automatic rifle?

Alot of comments say do your oil changes at 3,000 miles, if you do that from the beginning you wont have sludge. Well lets say you got a vehicle that was neglected, or say you dont know the history of it. And the vehicle burns more oil than usual. The vehicle has high miles & has sludge. What's the "safest" method of flushing? Diesel? Transmission fluid? Liquid Moly engine flush? Which flush would be least likely to affect seals? Its a 2010 Chevy Traverse. 3.6L.

Which Saturn is this? Looks fancy

Diesel gasoline.? Is this a new brew ? Or have you confused yourself with names ?

"diesel gasoline"... this guy is a marketing genius. I mean look at all the people who took time out of their lives to watch AND comment!

I worked with a man in the 70s that did this same thing with kerosene,, drained the oil,, filled it with kerosene.. ran it for just a couple of minutes .. drained that and then re-added oil .. He said when the kerosene was drained it looked like the oil that had just come out.. so I think your system is just fine.. and youre the first person to repeat this except using diesel fuel..

Well done 🥇

Never use a conventional fram oil filter. They are cheap and they suck!