Safest way to Resaw on a Tablesaw 

You're actually my target audience - someone who can see the general idea and figure out how to build it for their own system! Thanks for the nice comment, and I'm very happy it was helpful in some way :)

If I was doing hardwood yes definitely, smaller cuts. But for softwood lumber the saw is powered enough to make a full depth cut in one go

Yes I've had moments like that, the cut releases tension in the wood and it clamps onto the board slowing the cut to a crawl (and working the poor motor to death). You're right it is a nightmare. A 40 or 24 tooth blade would help a little but the wood is very powerful in that situation, once it clamps onto the middle section of the blade the struggle is enormous. You can try tricks like only cutting a bit, putting small wedges into the kerf to keep it pried open, then continue the cut. Don't let that wood beat you!

That sounds scary! A 2 x 4 is like a little missile once the blade grabs it

@@acanadianwoodworker I kinda got lucky. Instead of shooting it backwards, the piece jumped straight up about 2 feet off the table. Where I got really lucky was that it didn’t land back on top of the blade, it landed on the other side of the fence. Very lucky indeed!

No it just holds onto it's own side of the cut (the part attached to the jig). There's always two low profile clamps in engagement with that side at all times (haha otherwise it would go haywire)

Thanks Ken! No I've never made plans before, I still have to learn how to use sketchup

@@acanadianwoodworker any chance to show how the jig was made?

@@jchan0425 I never film the builds. I'm not skilled enough to build something and film it at the same time. I don't know how all the other you tubers do it!

@@jchan0425 It's pretty simple, I'm sure you could figure it out. It's just a box with t-tracks on the side, and on the fence side, made something to fit over or ride along with your fence.

It shouldn’t be an issue on soft woods like that. It looked like spruce. The lack of burn marks on the cut surface shows that heat was not a problem. If you’re re-sawing Bubinga or something you could start with a shallower cut and increase the blade height by an inch or so on subsequent cuts.

Good question ! There must be - all you have to do is hold down the resaw board somehow, then create a guide for the circular saw so it cuts right down the middle

I made a similar jig but used 60" 80/20 that gave me enough extension on the front side to add a front support as i had misgivings about the longer boards. i was able to resaw 48" pine with ease but I also cut it twice. One note that i have not seen mentioned is that it is absolutely necessary to have the riving knife in. Very dangerous without.

Yes you’re right, it’d be nice if you could just flip the whole jig and continue sawing instantly - great idea !

And I am a rhamphorhynchus .