Every homeowner ought to have a compressor around that size (and preferably quiet). I do a once-a-month cleanup of lots of things: the HVAC filters (They're reusable/washable, but you'll get more life out of even the disposable variety if you clear the dust), vacuum cleaner filters, brooms (because they're filthy! I promise you'll be amazed at what all comes out), electric razors, the computer's keyboard, power tools, sanding blocks, you name it! As for pneumatic tools, you can get away with that size compressor, but it depends on your application AND your work speed. For example, that's the upper limit for a framing nailer, but I was building a tongue-and-groove front porch. I'd use up much of the tank putting in a board, but then I had to spend a few minutes setting up the next board, so it had time to recharge. I used it with a paint sprayer, but it was for a custom bookcase. I did a few drawers, shelves, and doors at a time, just a light coat each. Couldn't do more than that without out-pacing the compressor's ability to re-fill, but I also didn't have room to paint more than that at a time, so it worked out. BTW, the Halloween color scheme you mocked is a not-so-subtle suggestion to build animatronic monsters to scare children. Pneumatics make the biggest jump scares, but you'll want a compressor that is both quiet painted dark so you don't tip your hand before you launch a werewolf at them. Kudos to Vevor for that reminder that tools are for both work and play.
Sold my rigid pancake and swapped to the vevor bench top haven't abused it much yet but the price is great free shipping to the US also. Biggest dislike is their commercials super low effort and the voice sounds like a temu add
You should mention the Wattage of the motor as well as the CFM they can each provide. The 1450W Vevor should be much higher CFM than the weak looking PC motor.
I built one of these and the problem is the worm drive saw has oil in the gear box it's not designed to be run upside-down my saw malfunctioned in a short time.
The holes on the outfeed side should be machined to size, put a slight chamfer on the edges, and then polished smooth. The verticals should absolutely be joined together at the top for stability with flat head cap screws. The verticals should also have holes drilled and tapped and they should be joined to the base from underneath with either recessed socket head cap screws or countersunk flat head cap screws, not that strange arrangement of the nut in a window. A micro adjuster would require a two piece base where the bottom piece has a dual rack and then the upper has a duel pinon gear with ultra fine teeth to make the small adjustments need. You may also consider cam locks to mount the dowel cutter to the router table, similar to the quick release hubs on bicycles. They can be rotated to thread in for a coarse tightening and then the cam lever locks it in tight.
One thing I did like about using a steel plate however, besides tolerating heat, was that it burnished the wood. It may be smart not to cut accurately, but to exit-hole accurately by burnishing, or "pressing" it. The high speed and tension are there anyway, and sandpaper clogs and leaves fur fibers.
I made and used several, a key is the longer the blank, the more it whips out of line. So it needs a pre-feed, however the point is not to have the blanks have to be perfect before the dowel is perfect. Obviously it is a mini-lathe, so all lathe practices would be followed even if too small to see: cutting point vs centerline, sheer angle, depth of cut, sharpness, cutter angle (entry and relief sides), heat. Here's a different question: what is the best or only workable solution on the market now? Can we convert this excellent well-made block to use them?
Good question ! There must be - all you have to do is hold down the resaw board somehow, then create a guide for the circular saw so it cuts right down the middle
Amazing work! If the two posts that hold the wheels could be slid back and forth on the bed for the smaller ajustments then setup would be a lot faster. Donno really - just a thought
Congrats on the first sponsorship. I've also been looking at a lighter shop mask, so this is helpful. More generally, this is one of my favorite RU-vid channels - love your pragmatism in design and general engineering curiosity. Thanks for the content!
I’ve been trying to get dowel cutters from a few sources. The one set I wanted came from Lee Valley, but they’ve been out of stock so long I still haven’t been able to start my project. The set I want includes 4 sizes for dowels up to 2” and costs $111. So yes I would pay $100 for your machine when you complete it.
At $100, I would be happy to pay. At $150, I would hesitate then grimace while buying it anyway. A tapered bit is a great for micro adjustments, my brain thought of a tail vise type of adjustment on the mounting slot. For those of us that don't have a router lift, a different solution might be appealing. Impressive design! Good luck 👍
It works pretty good for just filler or joinery dowels. Like, as an example, the other day we were assembling an Ikea cabinet and needed an extra 8mm dowel, so I just whipped this unit out and made one quickly. Didn't fit very tightly but was good enough for alignment, and was very handy because it did it quickly.
I know it would have cost a couple of hundred bucks more, but did you consider using a 10 1/4" beam saw for more depth of cut? What is your depth of cut now about 2 1/2 inches max? Also does the miter gauge adjust to cut actual miters or can you reach in and adjust the table on the saw itself to cut miters/bevels??
Actually its only (just over) 1.5" cut, because the saw is mounted underneath 3/4 MDF which eats up blade depth. Almost as soon as I made it, I started looking at every possible alternate just out of curiosity, looked at all the beam saw models, etc and tried to imagine a version with more blade depth. I made the miter gauge on a swivel point to do different angles in the future but haven't used it like that so far. If I ever do a v2 version it would be cool to go all the way and have every depth and angle feature a real sliding TS has.
I have the Veritas dowel maker. When you get it adjusted, it works fine. But your system for making arrow shafts (that is what I am doing) would perhaps save a bit of pushing on the stock. Once you have the complete jig with dust collector, etc, I would pay as much as I did for the Veritas because you would not need the expensive inserts. You would have to offer perhaps another set of wheels with finished outlet dimensions. I am using 23/64" for the final diameter for the wooden arrow shafts, BTW, I am cutting the shafts from Basswood, so quite soft. I like your jig!!
I would pay over $100... If the setup were "fixed" (ie. I didn't have to adjust it to the router table.. some method was used to insure the mounting was correct every time) I would probably pay up to $400. Being able to make accurate dowels out the the same wood stock I'm building a unit with would be enough for me to splurge. It would need to be reliable and durable, though.. as the reason I would spend that is that I would use it with literally every project I used dowels on. I hope you decide to produce one.
what do you use for the thickness on the round alum parts ,and how big is the round parts i know some one just go the drawing on it he is kind of confuse for the dia ty
@@acanadianwoodworker i got the plans says 1 to 1 the dowel ring come out to like 4 1/2" is this right and if you made it out of wood what is the size you used ty going to make it soon
@@paulcotesr5623 Yes, at 1:1 scale the ring is 4.5 inch in diameter. Yes it works well making the rings from wood, just it can get a little burnt from friction eventually. I used 3/4 thick wood but 1/2 thick would work well too.
You are nearly metric. Just readjust your basic complexity and relax the perfection factor. I never imagined that anyone could complicate such a simple process. Do you starch and press your underwear.
Take a 2 inch piece of 1/4 srlteel flatbar 10 onches long drill a 1/4 inch hole in it if tgats the diameter of dowel you want. Take a dremmel tool with a small thin cut off wheel and make multiple cuts around the 1/4 in hole, both sides. Taper your 5/16 inch square cut piece of wood on both ends. One end goes into your drill the other into the flatbar. Makes killer dowels only takes 10 min top to make and it practically free. Keep it simple n cheap
You can try to put a drill bit into it to check good placement of the cutter. On mine it was way too close from the axis (about 0,6mm). Indeed, in this case the whole stability is compromise as the dowel is not properly guided which amllify the problem...
What a great design. Would definitely replace my cabinet saw for this given how much space it takes up in my garage and the type of projects I'm working on. Great vid!
I have a sliding saw idea you have not seen. I am going to build a sliding table for my mark v 510. I should be able to do it in the next few months. I just purchase $300 in router molderbits. I got the bright idea to save my daughter a few bucks. She is a artist and she was bitching about the cost of a canvas. So I started making little frames to stretch the canvas on and gave her 5 or 6 canvases. Then I thought man her art would really look good if it is framed. So to save her a few bucks I had to spend $300. Lol . I love the approach you took on it. I seen a video of a add on slide table and he mounted the rails to the base and the slide blocks under the bottom side of the sled/slider. h=He then had to brace his underside of the table slide. I said man the base needs the bearings and the slide the track & no need to brace the carriage because the rail will. Then I got the idea to build a removable one for the mark V. I like building tool IU use. My profile has a scroll saw and 2x72 grinder I built
