Tip: to remove old solder add a bit of new solder first. That allows for better conductivity and heat dispersion over the solder blob. A solder pump and a good quality solder iron makes the job very easy. I could not live without both of those. To solder the new part: be sure to use a clean solder iron tip. Start by adding a little blob of solder to the iron's tip so it is "wet". Do not hold the solder wire against the component's pin. Instead, add the solder to the solder iron tip while heating up the pad on the PCB.
Thank you for the video. Liked !! If you had used flux on your wire before using it as a braid replacement it would have really sped up the solder wicking. If you file off your tip on your solder iron you should put solder on the tip before using it. And you can prevent some of the issues if you will test your iron temp with solder before putting it on the PCB to remove parts. You should also put a very small amount of solder between your iron and the relay pin as you start to solder each pin - this helps the iron transmit heat to the PCB and the relay pin. So it helps the solder flow better.
Same problem and solved replacing the relay. Symptoms were, after a power outage it stops cooling. Only after disconnect and connect from power, it starts cooling only one time ( one cycle) and then stops cooling, the compressor never start a second time. I realized the relay was failing because a small green light was flashing. A technician said it was the whole card but I wasn't able to expend 150us (3,000 pesos mexicanos) if the relay was the only fault component. An it was. Note I didn't find the same relay but checkin the specs of the original I found an equivalent on and it is working fine. Thanks Bill.
Francisco Vazquez I've got the same problem. It's as if Samsung is doing it on purpose. My ref will really be cold for only a day, then it will be warmer and warmer the following days. Max temp it reached is 18°C...
I had a bad solder joint on my compressor relay for my KitchenAid Ice Machine.. dude! Watching you do this helped me save $200 on a new Control Board! I'm as novice as you in regards to soldering..but hey - I got ice man!!! Thanks so much.
GREAT! Thanks. You saved me a lot of money. Instead of a $300 service call and a board replacement I replaced the relay myself for $12! Got my relay from Amazon.
Kudo's to you for having the patience to deal with a 4 dollar 20 watt iron.... I would have threw it away so I couldn't see it again LOL.... That no lead solder on that board is tough stuff , adding leaded solder would have helped a lot .....Then I would have went down to my local hardware store and bought me a Weller 60 watt iron for 25 bux..... I haven't used a single iron that plugs in the wall in 35 years I have 2 soldering stations that run into the hundreds of dollars.... I fix electronics for a living so good tools are worth the money..... Again , My hat is off to you , and thank you for your service in our country.......
Dude! The Radio Shack solder iron with pump is a must have. The fine wire for solder wick was a creative trick. This skill is a huge money saver when it comes to NLA boards and Kitchenaid built in refrigerators. Thanks for the video.
+Andy Fulenchek Just when you think you have all the tools you need! lol I will be picking up a new solder iron and pump. I can only imagine people who are good at this cringing watching me! lol
+Bill Newberry this is the one I have and love it, but get extra tips if you can find them. You'll go through about one an hour of use. www.amazon.com/RadioShack-45-Watt-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B007Z7MNEM For my iron I have: www.audiovideoelectric.com/product/velleman-vtss5u-low-cost-50w-soldering-station/?gclid=CIHl2qCt9ssCFYsAaQod9ugEDQ
A litte bit of flux helps a lot. Often melting fresh solder will help because it has a bit of flux in it. That helps pre-wet the solder join and transfer the heat better. Although the speaker wire idea was brilliant, but not fine enough like the solder wick, you can still wiggle your pin one by one slowly, but you risk dislodging the pad, then it's more work down the line ...
Thanks Bill. I am closing in on the same issue with mine. I have not found component relay yet and maybe the firewall is blocking me. I have done soldering before and you will have greater success in future if you learn to tin your tip in soldering. Thank you again for your help.
I´ve had this same problem with one of these relays in a washing machine. When you go to test the relay in circuit it clicks and closes the circuit but it only works intermittently when under normal operation. If you have a new one you will notice it sounds a bit different then the one that works intermittently when you test it. Most mechanical devices tend to break before the electrical one, except for capacitors.
great job.. theres a CBC brodcasting tv show about this lemon fridge and a lady had to spend thousands to repair this 2 yr old fridge and samsung said not under warranty
not bad for first time some guys already said about the solder. also if you will be doing a lot this one is awesome desolder. Aoyue excellent has a built-in vacuum. yes Flux and a charcoal filter and a fan for the fumes. not bad for first time
Bill, these are great instructional videos. I have a Samsung RB1855SW/XAA Refrigerator. The fridge will turn on and get to desired temperature. Once it gets to this temperature, the digital display says it is still at this temp even though the temperature inside the fridge has been rising. If I unplug the fridge and plug it back in, the digital display then reads the correct temperature and kicks back on to cool the fridge. Any idea what this may be? I've already replaced the control board and the start relay. Still having the same problem. Thanks!
hi Bill first of all thanks allot on posting a very informative video.I have a RS20NRSV SAMSUNG no frost refrigerator 220V it is doing exactly the same as your refrigerator. It works fine and once the cycle is complete it will not turn on again, until you remove the cord and plug it back again.you didnt tell us about the result of your test after the relay change.so your advice for me would be to replace the relay or something else also can be the culprit.pls pls reply.
Hi, This is a great video. I want to know how you figured out that the relay is bad on this control board. I have the same fridge with the same issues and trying to find out how to fix this. Appreciate your response, Best
Great video , I am doing the same think ordered relay from Mouser electronics , for less than three doll +shipping ,all les than ten doll. bits the 140 doll for the new board . my tenant is using small refrigerator to time when repair complete .
I know this is an old thread; however, i ran across it while trying to fix my samsung refrigerator with the exact same symptoms. My question is, where did you get the relay?
Good first try. Try using solder flux next time. I usually try to install a higher capacity relay whenever possible (16 amps contacts in your case I would look for 20 amps or more if it will fit on the board). This is especially important for stoves because of the high amps they draw...
Thanks Bill for the video. Did it solve the problem? My Samsung no frost fridge (Single door) Model Number:RR35h66107f is exhibiting similar proproblem plus the condenser fan is not running at all. Please help me with the solution. Thanks.
I tried but the relay was okay. Samsung fridge RS261MDRS-XAA not cooling at all. Controller board replaced as it had burned smell. Defrost thermostat replaced. Starter relay replaced. Still not cooling. The capacitor still smells like burned electronics but have not tested it is next to check...any other suggestions. Thanks for your expert time.
Hey Bill, I was going to put a 3 in 1 on an LG frige with the relay and overload on the inverter board, and a start capacitor on the side. 3 wires go to the compressor ( it didn't have a relay on the side of it) Where do the remaining 2 wires get connected? I'm thinking the wires that were connected to the compressor; or is it the wires that were connected to the start capacitor?
Hello. Thanks for the cool video. Do you happen to know which relay is for the evaporator fan? I changed the fan and it still doesn't turn, so I heard that the next thing to be bad is the relay. Thanks in advance.
I have a defrost control board on refrigerator side by side whirlpool. How would I test one of those boards to determine if it is that. Could you put a video up on that. Thanks.
Hi Bill, where i find the defrost timer in a samsung side by side mod:SRS614DW unit. It have similar control board like the one working on but i m able to the defrost timer anywhere. Your advise is most appreciate, cheers
bill I have a problem with the fan peendistes compressor when the compressor turned on the fan is normal or has to prensee compressor and fan at the same time ...
Where are you located? I have a Samsung 4 door family hub refrigerator I think its a 2014 or 2015 model I need to have the Compressor installed. I can't call Samsung their not much help. Not to many people know how to work with the type of unit I have.
Have the same symptoms, but it is a magtag, runs a day or two and then stops cooling, sounds like it's working but all really hearing is the fan running, put hand on compressor and it's not running. Main control board was replaced, problem still there, ready to give up, also replaced compressor relay and capactor.
Neither my fridge or freezer were cooling. The compressor wouldnt run. Replacing the relay seemed to do the trick, but only for the freezer. While the freezer is now freezing, the fridge doesnt seem to be getting cold. Any thoughts on what to check next?
This is the first one I've seen that had the relay on the board instead of mounted on the compressor.. Unless I'm confusing two different things, lol. I have a samsung rf268abrs. How do you identify the relay on the board? My board looks different than yours.
Although the markings can be a bit cryptic, they are usually labelled to some extent. I identified all of my relays by first looking at the diagram on the back panel and matching up the combinations of wire colors to see which board was which, though all relays will usually be on the primary control board, but knowing which connections go where then allow me to recognize the labels as which components the relays go to.
Edward Valkosky No, a 3 in 1 start is if the electrical part going into the compressor is not working. That works for some refrigerators but in his case the relay was sticking so relay had to be replaced
We were recently given a 22.3 cu.ft. GE Fridge Model GBS22KBPAWW that didn't work. I checked and replaced the main board because it had three blown capacitors. Now in my case, instead of being too warn, it gets to a freezing temp while the freezer gets to 20 below. I replaced the temperature sensor in the fridge. Still have the same results. Can you help me here or can you do a video covering my kind of issues. Thank you for your videos. They are helping me to not scare away from this type of work.
I do not know that GE has the same board with SAMSUNG or not but in Samsung, If you do not hear continuous clicking sound and Relays on board are working properly, then, you have to Check your Regulator which has a heat sink(the only heat sink on board) and one of 3 transistors on board. Regulator(7812 or 78XX) and Transistor (KA78L or KA78LXX) are responsible for the temperature and Thermal protection respectively. If this won't help, then you possibly have a mechanical problem with the valves or probably main IC (TMP87PH46NG).
I’ve been repairing refrigerators and appliances for 30+ years when I decided to stop buying expensive boards for just a $5 little component. I spent a weekend practicing and watching videos. That was 5 years ago. I still haven’t mastered it like a pro, but I get the job done with out any call backs. Brazing and soldering take practice and patience.
1) You need to use soldering paste. 2) You need to add solder first, because the factory uses a lead free solder which melts at a higher temperature. 3) Them you will be ready to remove. Best solder 60/40 tin lead.
+MrMac5150 lol My lack of experience was probably painful for you to watch! I just got a stove with a bad oven relay, I may go at this again in the near future, but with more tools and a little more knowledge. Thanks for Watching and sharing some info!
Bill Newberry Your iron is not the problem, you do not want to get it so hot it turns black, then it will not work. Keep a wet sponge and keep wiping it, keep the tip tinned at all times. The heat is not transferring to the product, because you need to add the solder to the iron first, then it will pool to the object. The tip should always look shinny silver. And you need to buy a flux pen or flux paste.
Excellent information. Would this relay affect the freezer side ? My frig is not cooling the freezer at all, but the frig side is cooling ok. Or, can it be other problems ? Thanks.
I'm having a similar problem! I've tested the compressor relay, compressor, evap fan, thermistor, defrost heater and all ice has gone from compartment which may have been the case but the display says it's -18 in the freezer but when I put my hand in the compartment it's not cold at all! The compressor is only a little warm so I'm thinking the relay on the control board has failed. Any truth in this?
David Silva I worked it out, there was a build up of ice before I could test which was last night. I tested with a meter this morn and everything was good then I posted the msg... I then reset the board then turned fridge off for 30 mins and now it's working perfectly!
NE14ABJ2DAY that was exactly what i was going to tell you to check, also there is a small vent from the refrigerator side to the freezer and once that has ice it makes the same problem.
unknown2day2 you can either try this or buy a circuit board. buying a new circuit board can be expensive so if youre willing to give this a try go for it
you need more experience on soldering. you supose put the solder direct to the tip and the joint! the heat of th tip does not transfer heat to the joint easy with out solder!
I'm seriously cringing while trying to watch this. The iron tip is pretty much ruined... You should never grind or sand a soldering tip. It relies on having a plated or tinned surface to transfer heat. Sanding or grinding to clean or shape it will make it take up to ten times longer to melt solder... unless you use solder rosin/flux and freshly tin the tip before using, which you should always do even with a good (not ruined) soldering tip before each use anyway. Secondly, whether soldering or desoldering, always use rosin/flux, it makes it much easier to transfer the heat where you want it, preventing the likelihood of melting or frying components by not having to hold the iron on them as long. If you do not have a desoldering tool of any sort, and no conventional solder wick handy, you can make a really good solder wick by stripping some braided copper from old shielded component cable, or old TV cable if you have any laying around. To make it work just as good as any conventional solder wick, just dip it into a liquid solder rosin/flux, and it will suck up melted solder like a magnet.
Also, if you do not have any solder rosin or flux or can't find any easy or cheaply enough, you can (sort of) use fresh solder to help out a little, or at least freshly tin your iron using solder, as well as getting a little fresh solder on your makeshift wick to get it started quicker and easier, as many types of solder may have some flux impregnated into it and solder melts and transfers heat much better than bare or dry copper. Solder rosin/flux also reduces the chances of accidentally bridging across solder points, so make a serious effort to get some, if at all possible.