They sell a vortex dust separator that goes on a bucket which goes in line before the vacuum. They keep the vacuum from clogging and are extremely common in the drywall sanding community.

As someone who has stripped a lot of paint off of a lot of wood, I would suggest covering the stripper even if it says you don't have to. As I understand it, the compounds that do the work of breaking the chemical bonds in the paint are extremely volatile (they evaporate fast.) You want those volatile chemicals to stay against the painted surface for as long as possible, and you want to keep them out of an environment that will cause them to evaporate more quickly (no direct sunlight.) That's why paint removers have a gel consistency. I've also found that you want to start scraping while the remover is still wet. If it has dried, reapply a thin coat, re-cover the area, and wait until the stripper has penetrated the dried areas. My experience is with wood, not fiberglass, so I follow the stripping with a scrub of TSP for lead paint* or a TSP alternative solvent for non-lead paint and use a 3M stripper pad. My experience with wood is that sanding the residue pushes the fine dust into the pores of the wood instead of removing them. *TSP is a water polutant and should never be used where it can escape into the water table. However, the phosphate in it will bind with the lead from the lead paint to form lead phosphate. While, lead phosphate is not a friend of man or beast, it is not as bioavailable to plant and animal life as regular old lead. And regular old lead will be stored by your body in your bones. If the bones with the lead in them are in a body that is gestating, that lead will be transfer to the fetus. We all have lead that our mothers and grandmothers were exposed to in our bodies. So, don't play with lead, kids.

Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2022.

I've done bottom paint for a living for many years it's very hard work I love that little boat I would love to own one like it myself, now that I'm retired. Good luck 👍

Also picked up a $30 dust collector from Home Depot and it worked great on my last bottom sanding.

Timely info, thanks - I find myself recently with a Corsair "project boat" as well, and one of the first jobs will be doing the bottom :-) Good luck, and I look forward to seeing how you progress!

👍👍 you definitely provided good information to think about/use.

Let’s do the time warp again 😉. Like how the channel switches between boat tours, DIY, and personal stories. Hope all is well with The family and would like to see a local tour of places you like in the area.

Don't worry too much about the cancer warning. Look at the water quality report for your area and look at all the cancer causing agents you drink and bathe in everyday. They just have to put that warning on there for liability protection. Kinda crazy the water companies don't have to put the same statement on your water bill or on faucet handles. Keep up the great videos!

At our marina there was a business that stripped bottom paint down to the gel-coat using a sandblaster system. He did an awesome job and the price is reasonable . I sanded my own boat and put on new bottom paint ,but I absolutely hate it, so I will be getting in touch with this guy. He is mobile and comes to you so that's another +

DIY Video's are never too long. Thanks for the insights, and I was wondering if people do Teflon coatings on boats to make them so smooth that any growth would just wipe off. I am really curious t see what solution you go with.

Hi I had to remove the many layers of antifouling on my Farrier Trimaran and simply wetblasted. No dust, a days work for the 32 feet mainhull, very clean result. Then a couple of layers of barrier coat and then Copper Coat, the orignal product. I use a rough sponge in the water to activate the copper when I see that growth is starting. That is a half hour once a year with snorkel and mask. Done. I am cruising in Greece for six summer months every year.

You could try and set up a small water tank as kind of a wet filter for the dust between the vacuum and the sander. Shouldn't take too long as a DIY project either.

I like the look of copper coat. Seems to have worked out well for Brickhouse with the Childress's.

Are you still working on the F27? I just purchased a C28, (F28). Your videos helped me to look for issues that I would not have known to exist.

I've removed a lot of lead base paint from a big 1907 house I used to own. Gel stripper worked the best for me, but I would use one coat and let the chemical do it's thing and then scrape off before it dried. Then I would apply another coat of stripper to get to those bottom layers until I made it to the beautiful wood underneath. Wasn't easy, but a heck of a lot better than sanding. Yesterday I set my Catalina 22 up on blocks and pulled the swing keel out. I DO NOT want to put paint on the bottom that I will have to do again in a year or two. My vessel is a trailer sailer and will only be in the water when I'm using it. So, I'm trying to figure out what kind of bottom coat I can put on that will stay on. I also don't mind wiping the hull down once it's back on the trailer, plus I have a big power washer to help out. Do you already have a paint product picked out for the bottom?

Yes sir, last week I was wondering what happened to the Corsair?

Great video! The anti-fouling kibuki theatre every year cannot be the best solution. Copper coat with a bit of extra cleaning sounds good. Extra cleanign beats sanding anyday.That the stripper works better on the non-sun side is a CLUE that perhaps covering it to keep it moist might have been a good idea after all.....

I have the bigger, round, shop vac and ran into the same clogging problems. I found vacuum cleaner bags for it at the big box store and with those installed, the vacuum never clogged again while sanding. I was able to do the entire bottom of a 30' monohull without ever having to clean the filter or empty the vac. When the bag is full, it is a mess free operation to remove and dispose of it. I agree with you on bottom paint being hideous, but I haven't found any alternatives yet that are cost effective. I would love to copper coat mine (C&C 30), but I am moving up in the next few years and that makes it cost prohibitive. I do think (personal opinion only!) chemical strippers are magnitudes worse for you and the environment, than ablative bottom paints.

For larger boats you could try sheathing the hull below the water-line in copper. Supposedly it lasts 20 years but it's really expensive. For a trailer sailor, which your boat is, you don't need anti-foul if you take it out of the water often. Just trailer up when you're not using it and wash it off.

Tried all...soda blasting works the best!!

Have you thought about an ultrasonic anti fouling system?

Agree 100% about the poison on poison. Several years ago I saw something about a guy had found a "natural" anti foul chemical that he was going to make from some deep sea soft coral? Not sure what became of that. Would Vynyl wrapping not work? I don't know how good it is at stopping marine growth on a hull but I see claims that it lasts 10 years?

Some of the orange gel citrus strippers (color is fudgecical orange) seem to strip everything very nicely. Sold in half gallon jugs in the big box stores, supposed to be ecofriendly.

Like your videos, I’m in a few Sailboat DIY and always looking for some new technology solutions. Recently came across a Pettit Hydrocoat Eco bottom paint. Copper free multi season snd says goes over almost any bottom paint. Dual Biocide ablative. Just found and curious how long it lasts. Seems like you could have light sanded and started painting. Curious if anyone has used this? They have a regular and the Eco. Thanks for good videos.

Because of the coring is the hull more susceptible to holing? I know weight and speed correlate but how much weight would be added with roving thickness, just thinking out loud. Man I enjoy your work and subsequent progress, its all about the struggle, can be related to, keepin on.

did you think of wet sanding? it would keep the dust down.

Why didn’t you try a gel coat peeler? 1 day to strip the hulls?

I am facing this challenge in the near future. Almost thirty year old monohull sailboat. I sand the bottom paint every three years and reapply Pettit Trinidad. But I can never get through to gelcoat no matter how much sanding. The high copper paint forms a layer that is like sanding copper sheet.

I've had much better luck with marine "Peel Away" remover....the film cover left on much longer really lets the chemical remover do its job....then just very light sanding.

Makes me wonder why barrier coat on 2 of 3 hulls and did the factory originally put barrier and bottom coat?

Hi Randy, I would like to go cruising the Bahamas for a season. Per your opinion, do you think using this Corsair as a cruiser for a single person is viable or just too small ?? Also, would it be safe enough to cross the Gulfstream ?

Will your vacuum accept bags inside? If so get yourself a few sheetrock dust bags for your vacuum. Dust no longer becomes an issue... saves the live your vacuum bearings.

I was a little underwelmed as well, with your disregard for the instructions and then expecting a good result. There is a reason they say to put a film over it.

Trimarans are amazing boats. Even if you do engine propulsion only, they look great. The only drawback is the high price tag.

I'm curious as to what grits were you using on your sander? Were you not using a bag filter? Yeah, if you use a pleated filter, it'll clog up very quickly when sanding paint.

In my hard won experience, the only reliable and non toxic way to control marine growth is to pull the boat out of the water at regular intervals. Since the F27 is trailerable, I think you have your solution. Copper coat seems to give very uneven results. I would invest in a good, reliable, convenient way to pull your boat and you won't have to mess with bottom paint again. Cheers from Alaska

Had you tried multiple applications of the stripper? It would still be easier than sanding. Good luck.

I used to work on a boat yard cleaning boats and the maintenance staff removed bottom paint with a pressure washer. Is that a thing or is that method wrong. I come from a building background so sanding is what makes sense to me but that technique went way faster then the sanding. Anyone has seen that before?

Is there any concern with paint stripper degrading the layers beneath? I would expect it to dissolve gelcoat and epoxy or vinylester resins. Edit: The Total Boat website says the product in this video will dissolve 2 part coatings or epoxies but only after extended time. I suspect strippers with methyl chloride would be much worse.

How is Randy and the baby doing?, I haven't seen them in a very long time..

... Cheers...

With any stripper you should at least hand rub the surface with 60 or 40 grit sandpaper to give the stripper something to bite into, and do not ever let it dry, once dry the chemicals stop working, in any case you will still have to sand, bag vac good idea, use plenty of bags, make sure the sandpaper has perforations in it, best of luck, Al

If all else fails, read the instructions… again.

I have to agree about ablative bottom coat, BUT... and there is the huge elephant... Location, temperature, salinity, frequency of use and so many other factors determine the effectiveness and type of bottom paint to use. Mitigating our impact is paramount. Having said that.... There is NOTHING ecologically friendly about boats. From raw materials to finished product and beyond blows the carbon footprint way up on the beach. When I hear Tubers and vloggers spouting their "Greenness" I cringe. "Self-sufficient" yes, "Green" no. It may only be semantics to some, but semantics matter. These are standards invented by us parasites to make us feel better about our existence. Be mindful, be respectful, and live to the best of your ability, but for heaven's sake LIVE LIFE!

The cheapest and most friendly way to remove paint, is to use soap. pH-value 13-14, primary content Potassium hydroxide. ( if my translation is correct 😉 ) You simply smears the soap on, or with a paintbrush… , spray it lightly with water, and cover it with household film. Let it sit for a few hours, up to a few days, and remove film, paint, and the remaining soap. Remember to protect your self, including eyes!, as the soap is very hard on your skin and eyes !!! When your finished, then you can discard everything easily. Wash the boat with water, and you are ready for a easy sanding, and build up your bottom paint once more. In your climate, I believe you can “strip and clean” a boat like yours in a day. Most important is, it’s very easy to clean up and no strange chemicals.

When is the next DIY video

Excellent, there are a lot of environmental issues. How to balance? Many people are happy living on land, but there are many people who are at home on the water. There has to be better answers for this issue. How are Randi and Morgan?

Save your stripper for fiddly bits where you cannot get in with the sander.. Might it be worth adding an abrasion resistant layer at the bow and along the keel strip. LoW VOC stripper's are not that effective .... Cover it in wrap to get a more localised effect and slow down the drying .. its the solvents that do the work. Bart a Polish Neel trimeran owner has had problems with scraping his hull snorkelling in the Caribbian he has found he has a high heavy metal content in his blood.😬 A hard racing type copper coat is at least more resistant to scraping. There are electronic fouling inhibitors but i dont know how they work. Its a pity that someone cannot build a water driven limpit like robot pool cleaner that could be put in the water and buff off any hull growth. A Robo hull vac/scrubber ..lol. It would make a fortune ..just run the main bit off a fast saltwater pumped onboard system. Speaking of which i find for nasty dusty jobs an old disposable dust bag vac is much easier to deal with than a bag -less vac.even if you have to swap the bags out to keep them running cooler and at nearer full efficiency .

For 20 years I would use a foam roller & ablative paint.. then sand every year with a standard sander.. then paint again.. never an issue.. Never used a shop vac.. used a face mask.. no tarp under the boat either.. no one did..that was 20 years ago..of course I blew blue out of my nose for a week afterward. Bottom paint is part of boat ownership. Always a bad job. O never went down to gel coat.. the foam roller was a thin layer of new paint every year..

Unless I missed it there was no information about sandpaper grit nor ambient temperature.

I wish I could find a bargain in Australia like that

When I watched mullets eating the barnacles off the hull of boats, I had that same toxic thought.

I’m no expert but it could be that outside you’re getting more direct sunlight causing it to dry out bus read here apply an extra coat maybe and don’t wait more than 15 minutes before you start trying to take it off so you keep it hydrated.

I would go with the stripper.

Hey Jordan, how many crashes did the previous owner(s) have with that boat? It looks like it was used in a demolition derby. How about using a bottom paint similar to Silic One? The copper based bottom paints are still a HUGE problem. it would be nice to see your experience with a silicone anti fouling paint. Some of the brands are supposed to be good for ten years, and they are not toxic to marine life!

Tough job

What state do you guys live in?!

vc 17 best bottom paint ever check it out i used 10 years only light sanding between years

So Jordan... how do you really feel about bottom paint? Don't hold back. ;-)

What a nasty process this is. Since I sail my boat in fresh water, and it's small enough to put in and take out every time I sail her, I don't worry about bottom paint or any kind of growth. My boat has some bottom paint on it but most of it has rubbed (?) off. That fits since it was built in December of 1972 (but probably purchased in 1974). In reading other comments, I like the concept of doing a "wrap" on the lower hull. If all you had to do after initial install is haul the boat out and peel off then reapply the "wrap", how much easier would that be? : - )

You will have to sand your copper (toxic to marine life) epoxy every year to expose the poison to keep the growth off. It really boils down to how long you are leaving the boat in the water and how often you are using the boat.

Two Words: Soda Blaster. Harbor Freight, $99 if you have an air compressor. Build a tent under the hulls with plastic, collect the spent soda, nothing goes in the ground.

Removing bottom paint is a nasty job, that's why you buy an 18 pack instead of a six pack!

Sorry you put the stripper on wrong. You have brushed a thicker layer on. The surface of the stripper creates a skin which allows the chemical process to work. You would have had an easier time of it using this method. Best of luck.

I tune in just to hear this boy whine!! Blah blah blah You just need to stop crying and getter done!!🤣🤣🤣

Anyone who wears a respirator for a living will tell you that you need to be clean-shaven for the respirator to work as designed.

Total boat products cost me thousands in damages. I wouldn't use them again.

LOL, spend 5 minutes ranting about the danger of paint stripper then thank the manufacturer for giving the dangerous product to you.

Most boat buyers know that bottom jobs are part of the upkeep of their investment. I don’t know of ANY boat owners that like doing that job, but they do it and get it done. Most just say that it wears them out, they don’t bitch about the dust, well, not as much as you. If you don’t like it, why the heck are you a boat owner. Try coming up with a solution first before crying about it, it does no one any good. Just saying!

Videos would be better without your hands in it all the time

Ecological awareness and boats don't really go together.