Savage Rifle Build, Trigger Work (pt 8) 

Your videos, IMO, are professional! Great work.

Top shelf...VERY professional! 👍

Thank you So much for the video, went through it 5 time and your 100% on the polishing. Super Smooth. Gunna go watch the rest if this build. 👍

Great video...

Thank you so much for this video! Very well done👍🏻👍🏻

Thanks!

Original trigger lock up fix. I fixed it for $0.17 cents. I did two Savage 308s today like this. Between the trigger and the inside area of the Common Trigger Pivot & AccuRelease Pivot housing is a gap of 0.019 mm. So I found a spring washer or a wave washer (look up Hillman zinc-plated wave washer, *not a split washer*). I found the smallest one that the trigger & accutrigger pivot pin (2C) with E-clip would fit through (part 2 C on the Savage trigger schematic). I carefully removed the E-clip, partially pulled back the 2C pin wast the AccuRelease Blade. Between the trigger and housing, I put some synthetic wheel bearing grease where the wave washer will go and coated the wave washer with grease too. I took a straight edge screw driver and pushed the wave washer between the trigger and the trigger housing until the center wave washer hole aligned with the 2C trigger pin. I pushed the 2c pin back through the AccuRelease Blade and the trigger housing. Than temporarily used a small C-Clamp to squeeze the housing ear the pin to make it easy to slide the E-clip back on the 2C pin. Than I put some synthetic wheel bearing grease where the sear rides on the trigger and in the notch. Than I got a safe adjustment on the Trigger Return Spring. I was able to adjust the trigger with a light trigger pull again. The benefits: The trigger has almost no lateral left to right movement. Because of no lateral movement the sear and trigger release grove are more squared for better safer engagement. It seemed to eliminate the AccuRelease Blade engaging from lateral trigger movement. But the AccuRelease will engage if the main trigger is pushed rearward, so that safety feature still works as intended. And the two greatest Benefits are, the AccuTrigger is working again like new and I don't have to spend $149.00 on a Timney trigger, only time and $0.17. Also for those like me, who have the bolt release in front of the trigger guard, this also seems to be a secondary cause of the sear releasing like the video describes. So when tightening the main screw underneath the bolt release button, if the trigger guard towards the back rides up,something internally did not seat. Start over. And if the sear releases sometimes, after putting the bolt back in, try working the release button several times, it seems to catch easily internally. And run the bolt smooth not to soft or too hard using the ball on the bolt. I hope this makes sense and helps, because I was getting disappointed that the trigger starting acting up. now it seems to be fixed.

Just added a fluted bolt sleeve (bolt body) from Sharp Shooter Supply to my Savage FV 12 308 build. Cabela's has (07-27-20) the 308 version on sale for $289.A steal! No impact handy so I used a 1/4 hex/allen key. Wrapped the bolt in a towel and gave the allen key one good rap with a heavy hammer and the bolt cap broke loose and came right out. Thanks for the video. It walked me right through the takedown and reassembly. Removed a lot of grit and grime from the bolt and lubed per your instructions.

Great vid!!! I agree with you about accutriggers they're great

I have the Acu Trigger on a Mod 12 LRPV and it is OK, but I also have an old M110 FP with an older Savage 3 screw trigger that in my opinion is twice as sweet.. A properly adjusted 3 screw Savage trigger is as good as any high dollar aftermarket trigger.

by snipping a turnoff and polishing I was able to get the trigger down to a "Safe" 1 1/2lb but it was to light for work in the field for coyotes.... I had SSS replace with a #2lb competition trigger that was the same each and every time I pulled it. No travel, crisp beyond belief. People say that's too heavy, no it's not with my competition 6.5x47Lapua barrel. This shot in the 2's on a shitty day. I called Mr. Berger, long before the reloading manual came out, he sent me loads for 100, 140gr VLD's, I built this long before it became popular. If I pushed it 2950-3000fps was no problem, never a sign of pressure.

i'm buying a savage 12 fv 6.5 creed and following your vids, keep them coming, thank you. My gunsmith custom build rifles for $5500. He said when it comes to accuracy, a $500 savage does the same, cadi vs vw bug. His advice was buy 7 or 8 rifles vs one custom if you dont have the extra change to buy one custom. Great honest advice, my savage 116 300 win mag shoots 1/2 all day long with reloads, but for some reason, i'm now bedding the stock and redoing the trigger and bolt. Just bored i guess.

Great information on the trigger. I own a Savage model 10FCP-SR .308/ 7.62x51 and I'm going to do that trigger model it already is a dream to shoot however if I can improve upon what's already there that will be awesome. I can already cover the shot group with a dime at 100 yards and the furthest I've shot it so far is 600 yards and it's an awesome sub MOA rifle so I look forward to seeing if the trigger makes any difference maybe further shrinking the groups even if it's only a tiny amount that still an improvement. I'm shooting the ZQI 7.62 x 51 mm exclusively through that rifle and it is absolutely a nail driver so impressed with it. I've got the trigger set all the way down as light as it will go and it has scared some of my buddies when we've gone out to the range they can't believe how light the trigger is

On the Savage trigger "safety blade" (not sure what to call it), one could take some metal polish and polish it to an almost mirror finish - just a cosmetic thing to make it look nice (as opposed to the factory dull metal finish)....

How about doing a video on the PRE-ACCUTRIGER trigger on the Savage 110 FP. PLEASE

Good video, I have a question I recently bought a savage 93 22wmr with a standard trigger. If I purchased a replacement accurtrigger assembly will it work on my rifle. Thanks.

I can’t find the reassemble video have you made one yet? Thanks Mike

👍🏻

Vaughn, Why did you polish the surfaces that pull away from each other vs slide during the trigger pull?

I got PRE-ACCUTRIGGER, OLD SAV 110. Seems to me (firing pin)the primer strike is tooo lite. (Not Trigger pull) Is there a way to have firing pin HIT Harder? Thanks Do you recommend an after market trigger?

I cant find the accutrigger trigger assembly video anywhere in your files, Ive looked for 2 days, can you point it out or send a link?

What was your final pull force? I got my 12FV Accutrigger down to 1.5 lbf without any modifications. I am wanting 10 oz.. I'm thinking a Rifle Basix SAV-2 is in my future.

Can it still function without the safety blade? Just curious, I wouldn't do it but all the complaints I hear are always about the safety blade and I wondered if just removing the blade would still function fine.

Will this trigger fit in a regular savage axis?

Can this be done with the 110 trigger from b4 the accu-trigger being introduced? Won't it want to rust where you have removed the coating? I understand that it shouldn't be exposed to moisture. Though in my environment everything is always exposed to moisture...

Great Video(s)! but you should have the trigger reassembly HERE. If you are not familiar with the Accutrigger, getting the spring back in in the right orientation can be a challenge. Also I used The Chemical Guys SS (Scratch and Swirl Remover)....worked the nuts. Got the trigger down to about 10 oz without touching the spring.....Gotta pass PRS Production Rules muster

Is there one for a SAvage A17? Its the accutrigger so is that Generic to All accutriggers? If so TImney has an accutrigger fix. I hope.

Have you ever needed to clip a coil from the spring to allow a light enough pull weight? What did your polished unit pull at? I have a 12 series before the accutrigger, and not at all happy with it. My main concern is that the spring for the sear is unlike yours, it is around two inches long, a single piece of spring steel but uncoiled…..are you familiar with these earlier models, and if so, any suggestions other than buy a replacement from an aftermarket supplier? Thanks for your thoughts.

I read there is a lot of creep on the accutrigger which the Timeny removes along with over travel. Are these concerns for the accutrigger as I read? Also, where can I buy a replacement spring and which one for the accutripper to lighten up the pull more.

What! no rifle basix trigger?

I don't think polishing the lower trigger surface accomplishes anything. The gritty creep originates from the sear travelling up the trigger face, not over the lower surface you polish. Please see this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CYi01puP1kU.html Excellent trigger disassembly tutorial though!

I adjusted my trigger in mine and it doesn’t work right , I believe it’s to light ,

Have you tried using a stone instead of a Dremel then hand polishing the it?

Man I’m loving your series. I was about to follow through with this one but once I looked at it it didn’t make sense to me. The two surfaces you polished don’t slide against each other, they sit against each other when the trigger is static but when you start pulling the trigger they separate minutely and it’s just the small forward contact of the sear that slides before it releases. So polishing the large surfaces seems like it would have no gain and just have the potential damage you warned against if you round that sear lip. Am I missing something?

Oh, so you don't go psycho and polish the pins and the pin holes?.....It comes from building small race engines, and yea I'm kinda OCD! Thanx for the vid... G>

Interesting video. Lose the chew next time.

Vaughn, Did you ever make the video showing how to reassemble and grease the acura trigger? thanks, Rick

Have never liked that trigger